The house we bought had a bathroom that was missing some fixtures, only partially had flooring, and only partially had drywall. We’ve started working on it to redo and finish it, but we’re not sure of the order in which things need to happen. We have a plumber that will come and fix our plumbing and move the plumbing to the right spot for the shower drain etc. I know we need to have the shower pan so he knows where to put the drain, know where the vanity hook ups are going, etc. He’s already told us we need to take up the subfloor in the areas for the plumbing. I assume once we moves the plumbing the next step is to put in a new subfloor/replace the boards we took up. Then what? We do need to build one partial wall for the shower, should that be done before he places the drain? We’re taking out the current drywall and having new drywall installed, we need an electrician to move outlets and put in lights and install an exhaust fan (my husband has done some electrical work, so maybe he can do some of this?), we need to install flooring, and we need the plumber to come back to hook up the toilet and vanity. We bought a shower kit and I’m not sure where in the timeline that gets installed either. Could someone explain what order this stuff should happen in? Thanks!

Edit: we’re planning on doing a vinyl plank flooring I think, just for sure not tile

I need advice on where to place the mini split head for the living room area. The walls are 7 ft 8 inches tall. The wall leading to the back deck has a window and a double door (red line in picture below). The gap between these is less than two feet and the distance between the top of the window/door and ceiling is about 1 ft.

The ceiling is vaulted in the living room. The brown line area has kitchen cabinets so out of the question.

This leaves me with the blue, green areas on the picture below. Will these be optimal? The green is too close to the door and I feel like it won't be a good choice.

I might also have 1 ft space above the bay window (larger middle one) on front porch wall. The house currently uses a cadet heater. No AC. Am hoping to install a mini split heat pump to provide both heat and AC.

I appreciate the responses. Perhaps a mini split is the wrong solution. Am not sure.

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Hi Everyone,

I live in an old 1800’s Farm House. As the title says, wind and cold air just bleeds through the door to the kitchen. The entire frame needs to be gutted and replaced and I didn’t get around to it this fall. It’s been a doozy.

Last winter I installed some of the thick vinyl/plastic sheets out there and it made a huge difference up in the temperature in the Kitchen until mid January when we got a storm with massive winds which shredded the “curtains.”

I need a height of 72in minimum and looks like I can get the polycarbonate roofing panels (26x72) for about $25ea. I’d look to install 4 panels.

Trying not to break the bank here.

Better options to look into?

Power went out in the garage and when I flipped the breaker back, the garage door would not work. I have a plug tester and it says the ground and hot are reversed. I used a voltage tester to confirm that the ground wire is getting voltage while the hot is not.

What is causing this and is this something I can troubleshoot myself?

Thanks

I've recently replaced the extractor fan and ducting.But I'm still having issues, Any advice on how to fix it would be greatly appreciated ? Just wondering if I bought a more powerful extractor would it do the job?

Just wanted some second opinions/guidance on an issue I am tackling in a house we just purchased. Long story shorter = house had moisture issues, the cause was remedied and some of the repairs made. However, there are still plenty of repairs to be done. I am working on replacing subfloors in one room at a time and found 2 rotted 2x 8 joists in the current room. I was planning to sister them when I realized it might be just as easy to completely replace them since I have the subfloor already out.

My plan was to use bottle jacks to slightly elevate the rotten joist (1/8 inch), slide/pound in a new joist and then sister it to the exiting rotted one; but if I do all that, can't I just remove the rotted one once I have the new one in place? Anything I might be overlooking or is it just as sensible to leave the original rottet joist?

Also, what type of ties might you use to attach the 2 x 8 to the 2 x 6 sill and the main beam? Ill be installing blocking and such when I install the subfloors btw.

Hey everyone.

Im laying a floor and not noticed there is a gap like 2mm between the wall and floor. Do i need to do anything about it? I think i kicht be settlement but am not sure

I'm buying a tatty house that needs work, mostly internal, but I want to make these tiles look better without spending too much. Can I replace the broken ones and maybe paint them all? Next doors are red. Also what are they called?

I dropped my brand new pixel phone and cracked and chipped the back. Thankfully it's not the front and the phone works fine, but it's still REALLY annoying and sharp on my finger. A full repair would be more than I'm willing to spend, but I'm okay with just filling in the spots on the glass that are sharp. I've heard of some people trying windshield repair kits, I don't know how they do. Since it's the back, it's obviously going to be more forgiving than if it was the screen.

Can anyone recommend a resin or acrylic that might do the trick?

Edit: I already got a case. I'd still like to know if there might be an appropriate resin.

Hey!

I'm soon getting cats! And I want to let the cats onto the balcony.

I did my research and given that I have to avoid any drilling I'm pretty confident the best way to do this would be to run a wire rope along the guard rail and along the bottom of the balcony above us (using the attachements of the guard rail of the balcony above). Then I can attach a net to the wire rope and I'm set.

My problem: To feed the wire through the above balcony attachments I'd have to climb on a ladder and lean outside the balcony which seems rather dangerous.

Is there a good way to do it? Any insights?

Here are images of the situation

I'm renovating the bathroom and want to change the sink to something smaller. I've moved the pedistool and want to relocate the waste water pipe into the wall and use a new trap like this.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get it done?

Hello

I'm looking to make a garden bed area. Essentially it is extending some landscaping which already has concrete sleeper edging.

The main questions I have are about garden edging. Currently I am most inclined towards concrete sleepers as it will complement the existing landscaping. I also have kikuyu grass, so I don't want flimsy garden edging such as plastic, the thin steel. I don't want wood as I don't want to attract bugs etc. Concrete should hopefully be long lasting

So my two main questions are (reference 1 in image):

Q1. In the existing landscaping, there are 1800mm (L) x 50mm (W) concrete sleepers within 75mm 'H' posts. I have heard that some concrete sleepers are not true to their width, and sometimes they need to be grinded down to fit within the posts.

• A. Is that setup normal?
• B. Is that setup actually advantageous (I don't have the equipment to grind things down etc.)
• C. Does that setup have any disadvantages? (only one I can think of- from seeing it- is that grass seems to better penetrate the gap)

Q2. Reference 2 in image. Because of the nature of my grass (kikuyu- aggressive), I have read that I should have 200-300mm barrier underground (to prevent it coming up from below). My thought was to dig a trench, and either

• A. Purchase two sets of concrete sleepers (one underground, and one above ground). Perhaps purchase a seconds concrete sleeper for the underground to save money
• B. Lay concrete as the below ground 'base' into the trench- try to level it- and then lay the concrete sleeper on top as the above ground. This method might save money, but I've never laid concrete so not sure how to mix (hoping someone will tell me dry pour and watering is good enough for this type of project!) and how to level properly so there's no gaps between the concrete sleeper and the laid concrete on the bottom layer.

Images for reference

Thanks for any discussion, any help

I am a beginner DIY'er (and I am passionate about learning and trying)

Thanks

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The only way I can have ethernet in my current living solution is by running the cable through gaps in my windows. As it's getting colder, I'm noticing that the tiny gap on the windows is letting a lot of cold air in. I would use a draft stopper, however the windows are horizontal therefore making the gap vertical. Are there any ways to close this gap?

A year or so ago I started giving my friend salt related gifts as sort of a running joke, and just giving a rather large bag of salt is easy and all, but I want to at least put in the effort to make the gifts different from each other. Last time I gave them one of those salt lamps, but after that I started having issues with figuring out what to give them going forward. Eventually I got the idea of giving them a saltshaker that resembles a pipebomb due to a round of cards against humanity that we played together.The plan I felt were the most cost effective and simple to do were to buy an electric salt grinder, then 3D print a shell to go around it. The main issue I have is in how I should make the model for shell. I need the shell to be possible to open and close to allow the salt grinder to be refilled and have its batteries changed when needed. One idea I had were to make the ends be threaded so they could be screwed on, but I don't really know how to get that done properly when making the model. I don't have too much time to do it either as it needs to be fully done before New Years Eve as my friends have agreed to give each other gag gifts then.

Any help with figuring out how to do this would be greatly appreciated

The problem

Hi there all. I have the Auping Original which on their site they mention is steel.I was thinking off adding rivnuts (to use as tie points), either the countersunk (schematic) or the normal ones (schematic). Since it is a steel frame, I would probable get the stainless rivnuts and paint both the rivnuts and the frame after I drilled the holes to prevent them from being shiny and to prevent any chance of galvanic corosion (altho based on my research the chance is quite low if there is no water).

As for the actual points to tie to I was thinking about an eye bolt (version 1 or version 2) both stainless because I think its smoother and would let rope run along it better. But I might want to paint it black, but I'm not sure this gives problems when I run rope along them. Will the paint come off or will the rope not run along it as smoothly? An other option would be an eye bolt with ring. I love these because they have a wide opening (5cm/2" instead of the 1.5cm/1/2" of just the eye bolt). It would make it easier to feed rope or webbing through, it will make more sound and im also scared that it will start to leave marks on the bedframe in the long run as the loose ring will be moving agains the bedframe

Thank you

First of all thank you for taking the time to read my post, please let me know your thoughts and experiences with bedframe mounting, rivnuts and painting them.

I have this problem at my house where the blocks in the middle are pushed in by about an inch. Instead of installing braces like this, why cant you just dig out the soil around the foundation and fill it with rock? If the issue causing the blocks to cave in is related to the soil expanding from the weather, won't removing some of that soil prevent that? I have a backhoe attachment for my tractor that is why I think this would be more practical then trying to fight the forces of nature with special carbon fiber braces. Yes, actual carbon fiber.

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Would you reinstall the threshold somehow or file the door so it doesnt hit the threshold anymore? I dont like the idea of breaking something(the door) to match something that is already broken. Two wrongs…

Not sure how to remove the threshold without breaking it or without hours and hours of work. Just not familiar with it.

It is a piece of stone/fake marble that was installed just like ceramic tiles. Grout or concrete on the sides… is there a not so complicated wat to reinstall this?

Looking to paint some wood furniture to match a room color. I’ve read conflicting things. Do I need to sand it first? Can I use primer and paint on top without sanding? I’m not sure what type of wood it is, but it seems like real wood, not laminate or particle board.

I do not know if my popcorn ceiling has asbestos. My house was built in 1973, and I had all the popcorn ceilings professionally removed when I moved in. I wanted to make sure that it was okay to start drilling into the ceiling without a risk of disturbing asbestos.

Thanks!

First post in this sub! Know I’m simultaneously researching and YouTubing as much as possible, I’d like to solve this asap for my tenants.

My 3 week new dryer from Best Buy is not drying properly. Two cycles won’t fully dry a less than half load. It’s apparently been like this the whole time but they only just mentioned. I never troubleshooted the previous dryer with the same issue as it was super old and planned to replace regardless.

Our first speculation is a clogged exhaust vent, which would help explain the old dryer also. Although we’ve only witnessed one of many factors to diagnose this (it does not get overly hot, no odour, no excess lint where it should not be).

Videos show various basic ways to clean it, depending on the distance/curves involved. I have no clue as to either of these. I can only speculate it might be at least 15 feet with some good bends to get to where it exits the house. The scrubbers/drill attachments I’ve seen don’t seem to reach more than 4 feet or so.

My primary questions at this point are

A) Are we on the right track with the potential vent clog

B) What would be the appropriate tool for a longer vent run

C) Am I better off to hire out right away or pursue DIY

Thanks for all and any input! I’ll be complaining about a washer next post.