I need to create a replica of high boots for studio shoots. They don't have to be functional, just an imitation of the look. Does anyone have any ideas on what material can be used to make the initial shape?

https://imgur.com/a/tun-drain-replacement-iMe0YcF

Have been having some drainage issues in my main floor bathroom that I haven't been able to successfully snake or clear with draino.

There's a pretty wild looking pipe system coming out that I suspect is causing the issues so I'm going to just cut it off and replace with modern pvc and hopefully there's just a big clog there as opposed to any other issues.

In the imgur link I've got photos for the existing and my loose dry fit for replacement. Just looking for any advice or confirmation this is sensible! More comments for the photos too in the link.

I've done some other plumbing in the house but it makes me nervous as I have roommates that rely on it too so just want to fix it as quickly as I can once I begin.

Thanks all!

Edit: title is misleading lol; lead and cast iron pipes are being replaced.

I m trying to put up a curtain rod across the length of this window and would like to make sure that the curtain rod brackets are well secured along the length of the window. The problem is, my stud finder can’t locate any studs above the window. I can find studs using the same finder under the window no problem (16inch apart) and I can do the same with a magnet but above the window, magnet and stud finder can’t detect anything. I previously tried to mount a curtain rod (prior to painting) using dry wall anchors but they ripped right out even though they were supposed to handle upto 105lbs each. Any advice from woodworking/contractors here would be greatly appreciated as I would like to avoid drilling unnecessary holes in the wall. I do have togglers now if need be but I don’t know if I m drilling into a header with insulation (as it has been the case) or a stud. The good old knock test isn’t helping either and stud finder wouldn’t even detect a king or jack stud. See image for reference.

I have a sloped ceiling house with a knee wall in the attic. This fall I took it upon myself to reinsilate the attic and remove the old batts from the knee wall to add higher R Value ones.

While removing the batts the old tar vapour barrier came off with it. I was told its not ideal but it is okay to have vapour barrier on the wrong side of insulation. (Trying to avoid taking down and re drywalling my entire upstairs)

Just checked on it now as it's gotten cold outside and the vapour barrier is full of condensation.

Is there a fix for this that doesn't involve taking the walls down? Could my vapour barrier not be sealed properly, or was this bound to happen due to it being on the wrong side of the insulation?

Bathroom is new, about 2 years old. Just noticed a few spots where the grout is chipped (some kind of deep). Can I just put down new grout on top to fill in the chips? Or do I need to remove the old grout first?

I'm looking to replace my old fire alarm, it is hard wired into the house, and the negative and positive are joined with a 2k resistor.

a few questions:

• Why would these be shorted to each other?
• Right now there is no reading on the multimeter for volts, would the resistor cause a false reading on the voltage?
• when i remove the fire alarm, do i put wire nuts on the ends of the wires and shove them up into the ceiling? or is there a better way to deal with them?

Hello! So my Christmas lights weren’t on outside when I got home. There’s a GFCI outlet on the side of the house that is tripped but when I push reset it won’t reset.. is it due to moisture? It does this every time it rains but every other time I hit reset they always turn on. Ithe lights aren’t plugged into this outlet and there is a cover protecting the outlet. The main breaker also isn’t tripped. Any suggestions?

I did this joint about 6 years ago when we redid our kitchen. We tore out the bulkheads and I installed the bump out to hide a plumbing fixture which was contained within that segment of the bulkhead. I've always hated drywalling (mostly because I don't do it enough to be good at it) so I would like to expose myself to criticism to fix this right. If I push on the areas where the holes are black it's flexes inwards.

I suspect it's because the corner bead didn't have enough support, e.g. there wasn't a solid layer of mud underneath it? The other possibility I'm considering is whether the bump out has sagged a little bit but it is only cracked (so far) along that edge where I installed plastic corners and not at the top edge.

Do I need to completely tear out that plastic corner and redo the whole edge or is there a way to patch it and stabilize it? Thanks

We rent, and recently i’ve gotten the cutest kitten but she is a destructive little thing. She did this to whatever you would call it. Is it possible to sand and refinish this? and what would someone suggest to cover it?

I live in Michigan in a home built in 1980. Noticed 2-3 cracks around our house in the foundation. This one is the widest crack of the group.

We had a basement repair company come out and their moisture detector said we have some moisture under our walls in the basement in one specific area that isn't near this crack. No signs of water damage other than the moisture detector they used.

They now suggested cutting open a small portion of that wall to see what's behind it. Does that seem appropriate, and should we be worried about these cracks?

We also just started using a dehumidifier and in the area they detected moisture, the dehumidifier is only showing 35% RH

Thank you in advance!

I'm planning on sealing the garage and adding laminate "wood" flooring over the concrete. How can I tell if it's sealed concrete or not?

It's smooth, sort of shiny, and seems very dry year round. If water gets on it, it doesn't seep in. It was build (as far as I can tell no remodels) in 1954, California. There are a few small chips but no cracks or huge chunks missing.

Is it sealed? Should I reseal? Should I put down some type of vapor barrier before flooring?

We had our condo completely redone almost a year ago. The flooring has started to bubble in one spot, reached out to the contractor who completed our renovation and they keep insisting it’s because the property isn’t being kept at a constant temperature.

I understand that temperature and humidity are important for acclimation but should the flooring be coming up if i decide to open the windows and not use a/c for a month?

There's really not a whole lot to explain here but..

Get rare earth magnets with eye bolts.

Get Carabiners separately. Combine.

Use one of those grabby claw poles from harbor freight for $3. Hang lights.

No ladder needed.

Pictures and the same details provided on this imgur post. https://imgur.com/a/0FLoXKL I'm very happy with the results. No fumbling with plastic clips, no vertigo, and taking them down will be easy too.

I am installing a new over-the-range microwave. I have to install a new wall bracket as the pre-existing bracket is incompatible with the new microwave. The bracket sits at the bottom of the microwave and as such, requires it to be mounted lower on the wall.

My problem is, the existing backsplash is not trimmed that low on the wall. I need to trim it down the wall further to put the mounting bracket on the wall.

What's the best way for me to make reasonably clean cuts on the backsplash? Would not like to butcher it if at all possible.

Thank you for any help you can provide!

So my house was built in 1904. The upstairs is finished, so there is no way to see the joists. Would it be safe to install a sensory swing for my toddler in the ceiling of the ceiling is also a floor? My kid is 36lbs. What should I look for? What type of beams would I expect to find?

This nut will not come off need suggestions

https://preview.redd.it/l2zdnhon1w4e1.png?width=708&format=png&auto=webp&s=bc223625bc9c0783e69ab39375d23e2e305f11c9

https://preview.redd.it/o1u7mgon1w4e1.png?width=824&format=png&auto=webp&s=c34fbc7980498b421ca859d4b2a085d9456712c9

https://preview.redd.it/5lc52kon1w4e1.png?width=929&format=png&auto=webp&s=3a6161bf1b59cede8548c22b757f086a9b4a7919

https://preview.redd.it/saololzs1w4e1.png?width=667&format=png&auto=webp&s=99dad813e869e5b9a189e9aef879384eb546e570

Looking for advice. I think there should be bumpers of some kind that could fit over the metal, but I'm not sure how to search correctly, or whether I'd be better off trying to track down the specific hardware brand to see if they have a solve. Also the space for clearance is pretty tight. Appreciate any thoughts.