Currently we live rural and are dealing with theives. We have a heavy duty mailbox but the theives have worked on it so much the mail drop is warped enough to fish mail out.

I have purchased a Dvault collection mailbox, yes we're to the point we're spending this much on a mailbox. No a po box isn't an option because the theives are breaking into the post office itself and the mail carrier refuses to drive down the dirt road we live in. Due to work schedules we don't regularly have someone at home to collect the mail as soon as it's delivered.

The question now is how to make it truck proof? Or at least cause more damage to any vehicle than it's worth for a stupid envelope. We know the next escalation is throw a chain around it and try and drag it off.

The area is loose sand and concrete like clay. However, in the area around the mailboxes, exposed clay spots arent common and typically several feet underground. So anything we pour will like be on loose sand.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Need to add some kitchen wall cabinets but the location of them I'm only hitting one stud.

Instead of using toggle bolts, I figured I could open the wall up and add a wood block brace between the two studs. Any tips or videos? TIA.

I wanted to save myself some cash and do my own DIY roof rack instead of shelling out ~$1200 for the name-brand ones. I'm familiar with CAD software and decided to go with a laser cut sides + windguard with some 1020 extruded aluminum cross bars.

FYI any links below are not meant to endorse any brands or suppliers - its just the materials I used.

Scrounging around online I found some decent reference measurements on forums for 5th Gen 4runners (the pain was finding good info on the bottom roof spline and windguard bottom spline). Using some general measurements off my truck, I found the distance between the mounting brackets drafted up the side rails in Fusion360

https://preview.redd.it/bv357mcudz1e1.png?width=1371&format=png&auto=webp&s=8708ae46bc3b34bb757b3ada0b87adbdd7005cff

https://preview.redd.it/y9rb9mcudz1e1.png?width=1447&format=png&auto=webp&s=a90b546e3c4f87bb3ab725f3dc81ed50e86e3951

https://preview.redd.it/uji5amcudz1e1.png?width=1613&format=png&auto=webp&s=1d819630e175bf3246839187a333ec5e713ebc81

Two of the slotted holes in the sides are very intentionally spaced and placed towards the middle and rear so the side panel is positioned (with slop) to bolt onto 4 Crestone mounting feet. The rest of the slotted holes for the crossbars (sized for 1/4-20 fasteners), interspaced large holes (1in diam.), and grab points were placed on 100% vibe-based engineering (aesthetics and general utility).

The side rails were modeled as 1/4in thick 6061-T6 Aluminum and the windguard as 1/8in thick 6061-T6 Aluminum (both are commonly available sizes and types of sheet aluminum). The crossbars are 1020 series extrusions from Tnutz with 1/4-20 tapped holes and black anodize finish. Fasteners were black oxide stainless from McMaster Carr (button head bolts, lock washers, washers, and baby button heads for the windguard).

After modeling everything, I printed out a 1:1 drawing of the side panel using a large plotter at work to do a test fit (I found I had to make a small adjustment):

https://preview.redd.it/a9pcsr6xdz1e1.jpg?width=2639&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff920534b0a395ce7ae2113fe2811e3e34d58d87

I sent out the side panels and windguard for quotes to about a dozen local metal working shops and got a great quote - that shop was awesome and turned it around within 10 days. Here's another photo in there with a bare aluminum test fit:

https://preview.redd.it/zxykbi20ez1e1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b28b7ed2e7cfbf5f16356fac4874fac44a170d1f

Pleased with things, I prepped the parts for painting and suspended them in my garage (two photos). I sanded, degreased with acetone, washed with vinegar, then primed them with self-etching primer. I followed up the primer with flat black enamel and a separate coat of satin clear enamel

https://preview.redd.it/tyip343jfz1e1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8b0951645c48931a6adc6371b24d11da9736d7a

https://preview.redd.it/8nn1553jfz1e1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e2cd435f42736d020099e3173da45c8d58ce298

Once cured, I bolted put them together onto the Crestone mounting feet, and saw I had a little bit of a shimmy left/right since it was mostly unsupported. I ordered these Sherpa adjustable mounting feet and preloaded them against my roof and it resolved the shimmy and increased roof-to-rack clearance in the front:

https://preview.redd.it/5o48nig6ez1e1.jpg?width=3300&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffe674324c85163b4d945e75b3e87dc8e372b007

I had to shift the rack more forward than I anticipated and swapped out the rearmost 1020 extrusion to a 1010 so it cleared my shark fin antenna

I'm super pleased with how this came out - and with damn good fit and finish. Overall, this DIY roof rack cost me about ~$900; $600 of that was laser cutting the parts + tax; the remainder falls into Tnutz crossbars, McMaster-Carr orders, Crestone Brackets, leveling mounts, paint, and an OV respirator I picked up.

In the end it was just satisfying to do myself!

Hindsight: 1) Painting was messy and a big PITA - I wish I just got them powder coated, 2) the entire pattern of slotted holes on the side panel could be moved rearward by about 0.5in - 1.0in so the windguard can scoot down towards the windshield further

(I won't be supplying any CAD files, sorry).

Any tips or solutions here? My actual door is 33 and 3/4 and 81.8 but there is a significant gap.

Any sources to find some standard doors I can use to replace my 100-year wooden door that lets all the hot air out?

Hi all. I'm finnishing some renovation at home and I have to mount tv stand on a drywall. I got 55" sony bravia and tv mount from picture above to mount onto drywall. I got no idea where the stud is but wall is double plated drywall with hollow brick wall few cm behind. Should I mount everyrhing onto the drywall or should I drill into the brick wall to ancore everything better? Sorry for my bad english

I have some stucco that’s cracking and delaminating. It has a thick coat of paint that is peeling. What’s the best way to repair this? Chip the area away and then Stucco patch+paint?

Recently had a new door fitted but over the last few days I've noticed some water build up especially with heavy rain conditions, is this normal or something I should be worried about. I want to clarify that it is not coming inside the house. (This is my backdoor to the outside)

Shall I take a bit of the plaster away and check for damp brickwork?

We're redoing our bathroom and this one plastering patch hasn't dried after 4 weeks. It's not decreased in size in 3 weeks despite dehumidifier 24/7, heated room, and even taking a hairdryer to the wall. Rest of the room dried in 3 days and we've pretty much finished.

We unfortunately did have a roof leak in that corner just after the plastering happened but got it fixed. We've had the boiler checked and the external rendering too, got the all clear from those. Nowhere else in the house are there any other issues showing leaking or damp.

build one out of wood…? or drill into the wall? idk

I'm looking to add a couple of stud backings for the first time so I can put a floating vanity.

I want to add the backing so there's more support and easier to install. I've been looking around for guidance on how to do it and couldn't find much.

I have a 210 at home that is big enough to cut into size. Any issues with using that instead of a 26 that a lot of people use?

I was also planning to screw in to the studs with pocket holes. What size screws should I use? Would 2 pocket holes on each side be enough?

Thanks!

This is the tech diagram of the wall cabinet. The manufacturer says you must use at least four screws to hang on studs for cabinets wider than 15". The one I'm trying to hang is hitting only one stud about 3" from one end. I'm installing 3 cabinets: 18" - 36" - 18" and having the issue on both 18" cabinets. The 36" will hit two studs no problem. I will be joining the cabinets sides.

They are glass door cabinets that will mostly display glassware so very light use. Ideally I would use more screws, but there is only a hanging rail on the top and bottom, so can't use more screws in the middle for example. Any ideas? TIA.

https://preview.redd.it/1zcmc9c96x1e1.png?width=1728&format=png&auto=webp&s=93ff3c94f893422e1be3ab51667e2fa9d16aad76

Anyone know how to remove these inserts on the tracks? I can’t find anything on closet maid or Home Depot on how to remove them. Previous homeowners had these wire drawers installed and I’m trying to remove them.

Does anyone know how to get this screw out. It’s too far in for my vice grip to get, and I’ve tried every single bit size. It won’t budge and it being slightly stripped is not helping. I’ve tried using some WD40 to lube it up and that still didn’t work bc it can’t get into the actually hole. Any help please

Hi everyone, I'm redoing my bathroom and had a question that I can't find an answer to. My house is pretty old and has wood plank subfloors, I read that concrete backer board is a good base for tiles, but I'm unsure if it can be placed over a plank subfloor. If possible could I add a some sheets of 1/2 inch plywood above the plank subfloor, and place the backer board above that? Thanks

I’m building out my barn. The joists will be about 18” above a dirt floor that will have a vapor barrier on top of it and going up the walls. Should I opt for treated lumber for these joists?

Hi,

New homeowner and our bathtub seems to be seeping what I assume is sealant? I clean it every one in a while, but over time it builds up again. Couple questions 1) Any tips for cleaning this? 2) How to prevent this going forward?

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know of a product or quick project to level a sloped dryer lid. I just got a new set and I feel like I’ve lost some clutter real estate. The washer is a top loader also with a sloped lid. Looked online but I’m only getting information on how to level the entire unit. I can’t be the only one missing space.

I had a single 3-tab shingle blow off from some wind damage recently.

• I got a replacement shingle and a fall arrest harness, but my roof was simply too steep to safely replace myself. Although I had done some roofing in my teen years, I couldn't even stand on the slope.
• I tried to reach out to some local roofing companies, but to no avail. I can't blame them—tiny job, big hassle right at the end of the season?
• Aaand now we just had our first major snowfall so the odds of getting it replaced are even slimmer than before.

I'm wondering if anyone would have any insight or advice into:

• What kind of damage could I expect in a high snow volume area?
• Is there anything I could do from the interior attic side that might help mitigate the damage?

I appreciate any thoughts

I got a vintage wallpaper border and am trying to figure out if it's pre-pasted or not. I cut off a strip and ran some water over it which made it feel kind of slimy, and then folded the strip in half and left it for a while. The two halves kiiiind of stuck together, like it felt sticky, but it was also extremely easy to pull them apart.

I'm completely stumped on what this means haha maybe they were pre-pasted and the adhesive is so old it doesn't really work anymore? I am a renter and am either going to put it up using the liquid starch method or the double sided tape method but really need to know for sure if it's got adhesive on it to decide which to do.

I'm looking to air seal my rim joists in the basement and my attic penetrations before I re insulate everything. Are there any go-to products or air sealing kits to accomplish this? My house is about 1200 sq/ft but the attic and basement are only about half the footprint of the house.

https://preview.redd.it/30dlgxx3cx1e1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=630fcd7212e268058f00437c31624c79369cf1c6

I can't see how to get into the light fixture to change the ballast, and I really don't want to hurt the fancy woodwork with the scalloped edge. Does anybody have any ideas how to get inside the light fixture without using an angle grinder?

Hey everyone, I wanted to see what some of the common problems you all have seen with this era of housing were looking into purchasing a fixer upper built in 1923 the house is in decent condition.