My ex allowed a leak in his bedroom to go through the wall to the dining room below it. He cut this rectangle so far. I did an at home mold test and it came back positive. He refuses to do more than cut this part out. Can I do anything to get to the mold without a huge expensive project?

He is an ex who refuses to move out so I’m getting a lawyer. It’s been fun. And I say he allowed because I showed him the wet brick outside from his AC unit and he ignored me until I saw the wet spot in the dining room.

Dog keeps removing cover, which is allowing big debris into the drain.

I thought of using glue but I would to be able to remove it for cleaning if needed.

Any ideas?

I have a large chain link dog kennel with 2 IBC totes attached as houses. I'm going to be using it for chickens and am looking for the best method to insulate the totes for winter. I was thinking insulation board just cut to the size and shape I need. There's about a foot tall by 8 inch wide door that all materials will have to brought through to go on the inside. Unless insulation from the outside is a better option.

Any advice on materials and how to do it is much appreciated. Oh, one more thing, summer is also a concern of mine. I don't know if the insulation will keep it hot in there in the summer? If so, it has to be something removable when it gets hot. Either reusable or not too pricey just buy new material each year.

Looking for any ideas for a more permanent cover for these pipes. They were covered in foam insulation, but my dog keeps chewing it off.

I used to have a fence blocking this corner, but that is no longer possible.

I thought about building a lean-to shed over them, but I’m not sure if that’s overkill, or if I would end up being too much work.

This is the back corner of our detached garage, so it not part of the house, and it’s completely out of the way. Also, I know I would need to level the ground to keep water from standing there if I built anything.

I have a drain that I installed around the foundation of my home with the gutter downspouts attached to it. I ran it out in front of the house about 40 feet. It dead end in a field but I don’t want the end of it to get blocked with first and debris. What’s the best way to end it? I was going to cap the end with a grate cap and dig a small pit there with some gravel. Any suggestions? Do I need any landscape fabric to keep dirt out of the gravel or anything?

I tiled the bathroom a while ago and it's time to finally install the door, by order of the lady of the house. Currently there is a rough opening for the door that we've been hanging a curtain from. The hallway side of that wall is unfinished (no drywall hung) while the bathroom interior is about finished.

I have an old door from a salvage place I will be using.. so no jambs are present (but the appropriate open clearance for them in the opening). I had no plan for the door while tiling.. I planned on cutting the tile perfectly straight, but in the end I said I would be covering it with casing anyway, so what's the point, right?

Well now it's time and I'm trying to wrap my head around what is the best approach for what I have.

Here are a couple pics of what I'm working with: door rough opening (each side)

So, there is cove tile "base" trim, subway tile, then bullnose trim to finish at about torso level. The unfinished wall has no drywall hung, and I don't plan on doing that for some time (I guess I'll have the jambs where they should be on that side, so proud, to eventually match the drywall)/

What should I do? I thought about a tile trim around the final door (the tub is tiled floor to ceiling, window over the tub is tiled in, very clean, and the niche is trimmed with bullnose, as seen in one of the pics) but I've been leaning back towards a wood or PVC. Would that choice affect my decision on the jambs? I could make my own casing/molding if needed, regardless.

For the jambs, should I make them to match the drywall or the tile? Or both (i.e. scribe the cross section onto the jamb). I guess anything is possible? Opinions, tradeoffs? Thanks. My google-fu has failed me for help on this question..

Any recommendations on what product I can use to fill in this missing mortar. Is there anything that comes ready to spread that would work well and be similar in color? Thanks in advance!

Ive got a basement, its nice and dry, but its a 100 year old home so effloresence is expected on the basement walls. I want to fix up a room for a gym but im not sure how to treat the walls.

I live in Denmark just fyi.

I work in my garage a decent bit and if I leave the garage door open, there are 20+ flies in there within 10-15 minutes. There's no food in the garage and it's fairly clean. I don't want one of those screens that goes on the outside of the garage because my wife parks in the garage, so moving it seems like it would be a nuisance and my wife doesn't like the way they look. Does anyone have advice on how I can keep the flies out?

I'm planning to mount our TV above the fireplace, which has shiplap over drywall. What should I consider before drilling? I plan on using heavy-duty drywall anchors, so finding studs isn't a concern—I just need to avoid them.

https://preview.redd.it/7hq12skap6ud1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6fe6df25aedaeaae53d6f3655c4befc6ffd93d3

https://imgur.com/a/nxCAOT0

So I didn't realize until I was in my garage with the door closed but the track on one side is super not level. The other side is. So far the door opens and closes.

Is there a reason for this or is this DIY shenanigans? Can I just move the bracket up a couple of inches?

I was gifted two hybrid batteries by a mechanic I know. I've disassembled them into their multiple cells, and I'd love to use them for projects, but there are several issues:

• First, I'm not sure how to charge them, the are NiMH, but I don't know what the best amperage rate to charge them is.
• Second, they are strange voltages, the Prius ones are 7 volts, and the Highlander ones are 10 volts
• I don't really have any specs on how much capacity or amperage they can put out.

Obviously, I'd love to use them to make something like an electric bike, but any controllers for an electric bike are going to want the standard voltages, 12, 24, 36, 48, and it will be hard to conjure those up when you have only 10s and 7s to work with.

Another good project might be an emergency power bank for hurricanes, but once again, I'm not sure how I'd recharge or how I'd modify an inverter to be content with 10v instead of 12v.

Anyone have any good ideas for me?

Oh, and I have a lot of these cells, like 50 of each voltage.

Sample image: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Mt0AAOSwQUBlWOhp/s-l1600.webp
Size: roughly 10" by 4" by 1/2"

My house has a rodent problem and it appears that they are getting through the kitchen walls, so I tore everything out and now I'm down to the studs and insulation

I'm planning to line the bottom of the wall with 12 inches of plywood and fill that 12 inches with concrete between the studs so then mice can't get into the house

Is that a bad idea??

Would the wetness of the concrete cause issues? Or would it be fine in a day or so when it dries? Or would it be best to dry pour the concrete?

The remote for my garage door doesn't seem to work when my car is facing away from the door (I back in). It works fine when I face the garage door or when my car is in the garage. I have to hold my hand out the window in order to close the garage door. I ended up changing the batteries, reprograming it and buying a new remote and I am having the same issue. My driveway is at a slight downward slope so maybe the signal isn't at a right angle but I doubt it. This leads me to believe it's an antenna problem? My husband's car has homelink and it works fine with no issues. Does anyone have any suggestions?

ETA: I did flip the remote around to see if that would fix it. No dice.

I think the antenna is to the left of the track

I have this older Maytag washing machine (not sure if the model helps, but MVWC4D0XW0), and it doesn't seem to be completing cycles. It takes a really long time to "detect load", amd once it does, it seems to just dump water in the drum, without proper agitation, spinning, draining, or rinsing. When it says it's done, you'll find the clothes to be absolutely drenched, and the powdered soap to be wet and clumped on the top where you put it. Does this sound repairable to anybody, or should we just invest in a new machine?

Probably not the ideal sub, but I imagine some of you have recently tiled showers so much have also looked into this. Subway tiles were all the hotness a few years back, but I assume they have probably started to go the way of grey lvp and other hgtv-associated renovation fads. What’s currently “in” (or timeless) that is DIY-able? TIA!

Do you guys know of any specialty screw heads that need some sort of odd adapter to take out?

With hockey season kicking off today – I want to put a license plate frame of a team my dad hates on his car, and make it hard for him to take off with what he has laying around the house. The screws aren't anything special – just some M6 bolts.

Any suggestions for fixing this dg walkway edging?

I live in the LA suburbs, so frost heave is not a concern, and rain is a minimal concern. Looking for something that has minimal upkeep for the edging, and will keep mulch out of the dg walkway.

Thanks!

ETA: I'd be happy to go with something new, re-install what I have, or some combo. Not able (financially) to convert to paver or concrete pathway at this time.

https://preview.redd.it/3f471kztf5ud1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56084cd47c4c14f003c173d598c641ef36290d29

There's a pretty strong draft coming through. Looking for an easy renter friendly solution. Don't really care how it looks. Window seal gap

Is there a remedy to make it easier to open my front door, every time it rains or gets cold the door is close to impossible to open.

What are options so I can at least open the door without a issue? Thank you

I want to put in an extractor hood in my kitchen. The range sits on an exterior wall so I think it should be relatively straightforward to do. I have wood siding so I dont need to go through anything incredibly tough to cut.

I dont really know what all I need to think about to do this though. Do I just get a giant hole saw? Or a jigsaw?

Realistically Id be fine with hiring someone to do it, but I have literally no idea who I would hire/ if a contractor would do a job this small without charging $1000. Any idea how much it would cost to hire it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Am I in trouble where mastic for tiling won't cure properly due the PVA primer? Limited results from googling seem to show that's the case.

What are the steps I can take now to prep the wall properly for tiling?

Thanks for tye help in advance.

In the process of refurbishing my shed doors and floor and running into an issue where I cannot find proper hardware. I have double doors on the shed. One is fixed and secured with a pin latch at top and bottom. Latches are similar to the ones in the link. Issue is the latch itself is meant to be mounted horizontally so if I mount it vertically I'd have to drill a hole thru the floor which I don't want. Is there a set that is meant for vertical mounting where the receiver piece for the latch has wings to secure to the floor and and hole for the pin is at the top. that way I'm not drilling thru flooring inviting critters and moisture inside?

https://www.amazon.com/JQK-Stainless-Thickened-Finished-HSB300-P2/dp/B07H663KLY/ref=asc_df_B07H663KLY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693403640083&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13763799035015123686&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006968&hvtargid=pla-574124618802&mcid=4167d39