I have wallpaper that is on left and drywall on right. Problem is that the whole house besides kitchen has wallpaper. My ask is if their is a way to keep wallpaper and then paint the drywall in any design or way to combine the look? I was thinking trim but may be tacky...

Hi,

I live in an apartment building facing another unit. The living room does not get direct sunlight, so even during middle of the day I need to switch on lights to use the room. However, I prefer to have the windows open for natural air and whatever little light I get. The problem is my unit facing neighbor has taken to sitting in their balcony all day long, so there is no privacy at all when I move about in the living room.
What can I add to the windows to allow for the little light I get and privacy. I thought of sheer curtains, but they would be useless when the lights in the room are on.

I have a 2200 sqft 2 story house, finished concrete foundation basement in manitoba canada. I find in the winter months my basement is very cold. I keep my house at 22 degrees celcius and my basement is considerably cooler. In my utility room where it's bare concrete the floor is COLD! recently rented a cabin which had an unfinished basement with concrete floors and they were warm. It got me thinking why mine aren't like that. Any advice or opinions appreciated

Thanks all

Hello everyone - I have one interior wall in a house we just bought that has very textured paint. We were recommended to skim coat and have never skim coated before. Should the wall be sanded before hand before skim coating or can we just apply the skim coating directly over this wall? Thank you!

(Picture 1 is the wall in question, but pictures 3 and 4 are from the sun room that have similar paint textures)

https://imgur.com/a/PbCS6Ml

Hello, we're doing a bathroom renovation and saw in the background of the Kohler Artifacts bathroom vanity a tile that my fiancé really likes. Here's a link. It's the tile that looks like it's interlacing and has small black squares throughout it. https://www.kohler.com/en/products/vanities/shop-vanities/artifacts-48-bathroom-vanity-cabinet-29481?skuId=29481-1WX

The folks at the local Kohler store weren't able to help. Any know where I could find more information on it? Thanks!

Our house has never had a dishwasher but my wife would like one. We do have a circuit breaker labeled for one but one was never installed. Problem is our cupboard layout is not really set up for one. The cupboards on either side of the sink are narrow drawer units. There are larger cupboards beside those but they are long corner units. Without remodeling the whole kitchen what's the best way to install a dishwasher in existing cupboards?

Me and my wife were fortunate enough to have been given our house for free 10 years ago. We were fresh out of college and a free house seemed a lot better then continuing to pay rent.

The catch was that the house was in rough shape. It's a 1,500 sq.ft 3bd/2ba house and we had to do a renovation ourselves prior to moving in to make it livable (no exaggeration it was bad). We have continued to make improvements over the years (New roof, new floors, doors, kitchen and bathroom appliances, interior paint, driveway, yard, garage door, and probably more). We did it all either ourselves or with help from family and friends. We always thought we would move but the market being how it's been the past few years we've kind of shifted our mindset to just staying put.

We do find ourselves in a bit of a dilemma. We (mostly my wife) are doing pretty well financially and can probably afford to do a renovation with materials and appliances generally found in high end luxury homes. The only con we can think of at the moment is we could never sale the house for what it probably would be worth 2 miles down the road. Think 100k+ in upgrades in a neighborhood where the homes sell for 200k. Anyone have any experience with this?

https://imgur.com/a/21P7a3Q

Was stoked to get some new bright LED lights for my garage when I looked up today and saw this. Photos are attached. (pardon the mess, I just got a new garage door so this NEW issue pisses me right off)

What's the best plan of action here? I'm ASSUMING this is a load bearing beam. Obviously I need to get the stuff off of it for repair, carefully so it doesn't fall on me, Really looking forward to that.

I have a message in for a structural engineer, but I'm asking here because I'm wondering if a handyman can just reinforce the beam(s) for me and I can forego the engineer inspection. I don't see any noticeable sagging from the outside of the garage, and I've never seen a leak. I think this break is just from heavy snow on the roof (Michigan) and the garage is probably at least 60 years old.

i have an appartment i'm renting out and i had installed a yeelight ceiling light. but the light keeps getting out of sync with the remote and now we can't even get it to sync anymore.

i thought maybe there's an alternative that is both cheap and with a much more reliable remote?

thanks!

Hi,

What is the name, and how should I replace, the piece of wood that is flush against the wall that gets screwed into from the metal holders that hold the horizontal rod in a closet? Here is a picture at https://ibb.co/Kc9C4wGF

I want to buy a replacement at Home Depot, but I don't even know what this thing is called to look it up to buy a replacements. Thank you

I hired a handyman who came and worked twice, but the problem remains. The second time when he came he used a 25 feet long auger and it only solved the issue temporarily. Should I hire a professional plumber? I hesitate because I know it would cost a lot. Before the handyman did the job, I tried some chemicals like Drano and a little baking soda. I am thinking of doing that again, but somehow my handyman suggested (while he was here) that it's not a good idea to use Drano because it might damage the pipe.

https://youtu.be/FUKzJnL_7Tg

This is the video I took before the handyman worked on it. Right now it's not as bad but it might be just be like that bad soon, I suppose.

I wonder here if anyone knows better and can offer some advice. My last backup solution is of course hiring a professional plumber, but I know it would cost a lot.

Thanks in advance!

This post is an attempt to help my husband solve our HVAC mystery. He has been at it for days. Why would our Carrier system leak when the humidifier/fresh air function is turned on?

Ours leak water from its corners when it should be flowing into a tube and collecting elsewhere - https://imgur.com/a/aJaoHNs

If so, what could it be and how would I identify the problem?

https://imgur.com/a/PYhUSw8

Last time this happened it was the cartilage. But I don't know if it's the same case.

The faucet in the bathtub leaks.

I took off the cover and tried to screw the screw tighter to make sure it was that:

https://ibb.co/jvTFR49q

No success.

I pushed in this metal thing more deep, and it solved the problem

https://ibb.co/ksWQsm4d

So I'm doubting it's the cartilage, since if I push that metal thing the water drip problem is solved. What can it be? This handle itself is faulty since it is connected with that metal thing? Where can I buy the same kind? What's it's name?

https://ibb.co/xtzCnTmC

The pins at the top do not compress : so I can't understand how to extract from the top railing. https://imgur.com/a/YsSGtzJ

The bottom has a screw that is not compressible: https://imgur.com/a/HIpieRL

I'm half way through a bare stud renovation and I've just gotten to an electrical box that I've been dreading. This box had two switches. One was a 3-way switch for the kitchen light and one was a standard switch for an outdoor light on our deck.

Here's what it looks like.

The three wires circled on the left were for the 3-way switch for the kitchen light. The two black wires on the right were for the deck light. What's happening in the middle, I have no idea.

I can understand some of what I'm looking at but I'm confused by the middle line entering the box. It looks like it's providing power to both switches but I dont understand how.

What I need to do is move both of these switch connections about 12 feet over to the other side of a sliding glass door. But since I dont understand how they're wired I dont know if I can reproduce this.

I'm honestly terrified about this box because the circuit this is on handles the lights for half the house. I'm worried if I mess this up that I'll knock out lights for six rooms and wont be able to correct it.

Any insight as to what's happening here would be greatly appreciated along with any suggestions on how to move this box.

Thanks.

In our home that we recently bought, the shower floor grout definitely re-sealed about 4 years ago and that never happened. Grout is pretty discolored and warn down, so I would like to redo it. Planning on just going to town with a grout saw and putting down new grout. My question is, how much should I actually remove of the old grout with the grout saw? I 100% do not want to damage the pan waterproofing, so I am hesitant to go too far. Thanks a ton!

I'm not finding what I am looking for. My apartment door uses a deadbolt, so the doorknob does not have a lock on it. I would like to find the handle type that will be suited for the exterior.

I found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-Olympic-Stainless-Steel-Hall-Closet-Door-Lever-32LG603B/323700786?MERCH=REC-_-fbt_test-_-323700650-_-2-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a#overlay Almost exactly what I want (style, color and everything) except it is intended for interior. I'm not sure if this matters.

If you know of one that looks the same, with no lock and is made for the outdoors, please let me know.

Hey All - I'm looking to do a 6x8 bathroom (slightly shorter) and planning to put in a 48"Lx 32"W shower pan (34 may also work) with tiled walls and sliding doors.

Looking for recommended shower pans you may have used as there's quite a few options. Seeing Onyx recommended but not sure if it's available in Canada

Also, any specific factors to consider? (Like I'm leaning towards corner hidden drain like below but plumber was suggesting center drain)

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/glacier-bay-48-inch-x-32-inch-acrylic-shower-base-with-left-concealed-drain/1001186706

Thanks in advance!

https://imgur.com/gallery/R9awPSi

From the image, does it look like the spring needs to be replaced?

I’ve owned the house for 12 years and only used the garage for storage, so I’d manually open it and close it. It’s pretty loud so I probably need to grease it up. The motor is manufactured in 1995. It plugs in and a light turns on but the motor doesn’t seem to operate - any ideas? I guess the spring is around the same age.

Help! Outlets leaking water. Pulled off the OSB and insulation to find ice accumulated within the wall behind the visqueen. Assuming it’s coming in from the roof. What do you think? What do we do now? 😅

I’m installing a solid hardwood floor for the first time, and somehow our planks are no longer even. I don’t want to have to create a huge gap between the last and the next row to have this be straight— what should I do?

let me preface that I am renting so I don’t have access to my water heater or things like that.

Essentially, one bathroom faucet has to be turned on carefully or it sprays everywhere.

After looking into it, the faucet doesn’t seem to have an aerator, but it doesn’t seem to be a normal faucet head where I could put one of those mesh things in (I would post picture if I could). Also, after taking off the faucet head, it seems to be reduced to come out of a small hole that I can’t get off.

How would I fix this issue? Can anyone explain why in the spout there is something behind the head that reduces it down to a small hole?

As I'm in the middle of refinishing a metal cabinet and quickly burning through cans of spray paint (and thus, money), it has me wondering if an air spray gun or mini airless one would cut down on the costs of small projects over time. I have a 15 CFM air compressor.

I don't need a sprayer to spray a house or a room, just random stuff like this metal cabinet, or a railing, or the louvered accordion doors from my bathroom. This would ideally all be in/outside my shop, I already spray paint things in there when the weather is bad (wear PPE, wear clothes I don't care about, cover up stuff I do care about, don't really notice over spray on my benches or anything). In my mind, primer would be the big saver because I could use the same can for spraying and roll/brushing, just thinning the primer for spraying.

Reading online and in this subreddit, it seems like a lot of airless sprayers are made for spraying large areas so would be way too much waste for spraying smaller projects if you have to fill the hopper every time, whereas it seems like spray guns for air compressors could be good for smaller jobs but you need to make a paint booth because of the amount of paint it tends to put in the air.

Maybe this is a fool's errand and I just have to suck it up and keep buying rattlecans at my level, but figured it was worth looking into the idea.

I'm planning on running ductwork for a new range hood straight up and out the roof. I went to a hardware store today to look for a roof vent, but the one option available for a roof vent didn't have a collar. It seems they are meant to be installed over an open ended suct that just termintes at the roof line. I'm worried that some grease and gunk shooting out the duct might get trapped in the open inside of the vent ratter than be guided all the way out like I would have hoped. Is this something I should actually be worried about?

I did a lot of searching before posting here and couldn't find any answers to this question. The only other place I even saw this question asked was here https://www.reddit.com/r/Roofing/comments/r0g2u2/does_my_vent_exhaust_need_a_collar_at_the_roof/. They never got an answer, but seems they did go with the more cautious approach.

Auxillary question: if I'm not being paranoid with this line of questioning would it be better to add a 15 foot horizontal run and vent out a wall where all the grease that isn't blown out the vent could drip out? With the added benefit that there's no chance a of snow blocking it like a roof vent could be?

Hi, new to this sub so hopefully I'm doing this right. I'm doing home renovation for the first time in a family members home and have 6 panel windowed french doors in the bathroom that I believe are painted with oil based paint. I would like to use latex paint to cover them but when I put a layer on it chips off with my finger nail when dry. Is there a way to paint them without having to strip the doors? I'm on a bit of a time crunch to finish this so I'd like advice but also want it to not look amateurish, thanks in advance!

I need a super glue product that lets me apply a tiny amount with precision. I always get it on my fingers and often the drops are too big and leak out the sides of whatever I'm gluing.

Also big plus if it doesn't dry in the bottle easily or stick to the cap while being stored.

I'm guessing all this comes down to the bottle design, applicator tip, and the additives they use to keep it from drying in the bottle.

Anyone have a recommendation for their go-to product that works well? Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to build a custom entertainment center similar to the one in the picture (attaching it below). I have a 65-inch TV and want the setup to complement it well. I’m based in Arizona, so I’d love recommendations on materials, local stores for supplies, or even contractors who specialize in this kind of work.

Hi everyone, I have someone coming to check out this floor joist crack that I'm assuming has been cracked for many many years.

https://imgur.com/a/AyADDuT

I live in a 1.5-storey home and this joist is on the basement level. There is a noticeable sag with a gap between the baseboard and the floor above it, which is then replicated on the top storey of the house.

If we were to level the joist in the basement, to my understanding, we would see some relief on the main level, but theoretically, should this work itself out into the top level as well?

Are there any down-sides to levelling the floor I should be aware of before the person comes over?

- I Have read that sometimes because stuff has been built around the un-levelness (windows, doors, etc) there can be major issues that stem from it?

Is it better to just sister the joist in place to prevent further damage, but without fixing the sag in the floor?

When we spoke on the phone he told me how they usually fix these, he prefaced it by saying it needs to be inspected, etc first and fixed properly, but the general gist of it is to jack up the joist levelling it, and then sistering one to each side.

It's so static-y you can see the sparks in the dark. How do I ground blankets that are on the bed?