Logitech z150 speaker. Can I simply replace the power supply with an old usb cable?

Hello!

I am trying to power this light bulb: https://a.co/d/f1nBV7n with this battery bank: https://a.co/d/enj0gX9

The bulb is only 2W and the battery bank has 87W charging capability, so I assume it can be done. The bulb is 12v and I know most USB cables are 5v? I assume I need a converter of some kind. I imagine this is part of the equation: https://a.co/d/6pE2BsD

I'm sorry I'm so clueless about this and many thanks in advance. I am handy enough to do some splicing of wires if needed.

Thank you!

Hola!

I'm starting a music band improvising metal beats with computer code (live coding). Check out Can You Live Code a Church Organ?, for a similar project I did with LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTER. Livecoders usually show code to the audience for a more organic experience. Thus, I want to build / mod a screen to wear as a mask, which shows the code I'm typing as I move on stage.

Software-wise, I can either send a matrix of characters (region surrounding my cursor), or a video feed to the screen. I'll make a VSCode extension for that.

Options so far:

1. An LED matrix mask (alla Sean Hodgins): I'm not sure the resolution will suffice to render even a few lines of code.
2. An LED / LCD screen: would need to be roughly the size of my face (∼15x20 cm)

Any pointers / advice to get started on this? Thank you!

I bought an old Macintosh Classic. I'm going to replace the screen with an LCD panel. I want to make an animated face or interactive AI similar to to Maccy on the Macintosh librarian. I will put a NUC or Raspberry pi inside. Any existing app to accomplish this easily?

I created a post in a couple of battery/electronic related subreddits, and got some great advice for my goal of creating battery packs using old vape batteries.

My school assigns us seniors a semester long project where we research and complete a topic of our choosing, reusing vapes being mine.

I have narrowed down my goal to be creating two types of battery packs that can charge a 5v phone, as well as be charged by that same 5v phone charging cord. The two types of packs I wanted to create was the simpler 3.7v one series pack, and the slightly more complex 7.4v two series pack.

With the 3.7v pack I understand stepping down the 5v to charge the pack and then stepping the 3.7v up to 5v to charge a phone is a simpler, as well as cheaper configuration to set up. I have found a board labeled:

High-Precision 5V 2A Charging & Discharge Module with Type-C Input, Compatible with 4.2V Lithium Batteries - Industrial Grade

and a 3.7v 1S BMS called:

3.7V 3A Li-ion Battery Protection Boards - Durable PCM for 18650 Lithium Ion Cells, Industrial Grade

Though it will be cheaper, from my understanding I will have a less efficient discharge due to having to step-up the voltage to reach the demanded 5v.

I hope ordering from Temu will be okay, but if anyone has any better websites or other recommendations that would be appreciated.

On the other hand, a 7.4v pack will require a more complex configuration (I think), as well as slightly pricier. The charging will become more difficult, having to step-up the 5v to 7.4v, but the discharging will be more efficient and overall an improvement from the 3.7v battery pack. I hope some sort of buck booster will help with the step up and buck down conversion, but I need to look more into that.

I still have some more research to do for the 7.4v battery, but right now I have everything together to order materials for the 3.7v and get started on building that.

I am reaching out in hopes that I can get some final advice before I get myself into this project. Any insight is appreciated. I am very excited for this project and want to make sure it is done right.

I have no idea what I'm doing. I wanted to make a "TV lamp" from this old TV. Most of the YouTube videos I've seen only use the diffusers and reflector from the box and put LED strips around the boarder.

Is there a way to use the existing LEDs? They plug into the circuit board. I tried using a multimeter and batteries to see if the LEDs are a complete circuit and it doesn't seem like it, at least with the wires that are supposed to go into the board.

How do i prevent resistors from burning up nothing works something burns up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FmVR5WCgTU

Can anyone offer advice? I'm trying to get this to work without going overboard on budget.
Screen: NE140QDM-NX2 V18.0 NE140QDM-NX1 2560x1600 16:10 40 pin eDP LCD Screen Matrix

https://www.blisscomputers.net/ne140qdm-nx2-v18-0-ne140qdm-nx1-2560x1600-16-10-40-pin-edp-lcd-screen-matrix-335189/

Controller board is from https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808048364601.html

Hello I have an overhead speaker system powered by a TOA BG-220 and two MP3 Music on Hold (MOH) players. Currently, I can configure the audio so that one MOH player feeds into Line 1 and automatically mutes Line 2 with the other MOH player. I want to play a doorbell chime on Line 1 and music on Line 2. However, when the doorbell is pressed, it only completes the Line 1 circuit and mutes Line 2 as long as the button is held down.

The issue is that the doorbell needs to be continuously pressed to keep playing the chime on Line 1. I am looking for a 2-input NO (Normally Open) relay that will close the circuit for 3-5 seconds anytime the doorbell is pressed. Can anyone recommend a specific relay that would meet these requirements?

Thank you

I created a post in a couple of battery/electronic related subreddits, and got some great advice for my goal of creating battery packs using old vape batteries.

My school assigns us seniors a semester long project where we research and complete a topic of our choosing, reusing vapes being mine.

I have narrowed down my goal to be creating two types of battery packs that can charge a 5v phone, as well as be charged by that same 5v phone charging cord. The two types of packs I wanted to create was the simpler 3.7v one series pack, and the slightly more complex 7.4v two series pack.

With the 3.7v pack I understand stepping down the 5v to charge the pack and then stepping the 3.7v up to 5v to charge a phone is a simpler, as well as cheaper configuration to set up. I have found a board labeled:

High-Precision 5V 2A Charging & Discharge Module with Type-C Input, Compatible with 4.2V Lithium Batteries - Industrial Grade

and a 3.7v 1S BMS called:

3.7V 3A Li-ion Battery Protection Boards - Durable PCM for 18650 Lithium Ion Cells, Industrial Grade

Though it will be cheaper, from my understanding I will have a less efficient discharge due to having to step-up the voltage to reach the demanded 5v.

I hope ordering from Temu will be okay, but if anyone has any better websites or other recommendations that would be appreciated.

On the other hand, a 7.4v pack will require a more complex configuration (I think), as well as slightly pricier. The charging will become more difficult, having to step-up the 5v to 7.4v, but the discharging will be more efficient and overall an improvement from the 3.7v battery pack. I hope some sort of buck booster will help with the step up and buck down conversion, but I need to look more into that.

I still have some more research to do for the 7.4v battery, but right now I have everything together to order materials for the 3.7v and get started on building that.

I am reaching out in hopes that I can get some final advice before I get myself into this project. Any insight is appreciated. I am very excited for this project and want to make sure it is done right.

Hi !

i was wondering. i have a project on a ps4 that requires me to make the power supply external. the components are normally cooled by the main fan of the console, so i decided to add a noctua 40mm fan.

I was thinking of sucking the air in through an opening in the housing (blue arrow), then letting it out through the top (red arrow). In this way, fresh air passes through the entire length of the supply before being evacuated.

I was wondering if it would be better to force the air in from the top, to expel it from the other side (basically, mount the fan the other way)

Thank you for your feedback!

Hi, I will make the battery bigger and use a 500w Dc-DC and a 500W Inverter but would this setup theoretically work? What about efficiency do normal bought inverter also have a DC-DC built in? Thanks

I have a few old cellphone batteries still and want to use them to power my drone. Is it possible. I have not taken apart a cellphone battery. Is it as easy as finding pos and negative and attaching new cables?

I own a Roccat Tyon Mouse and sadly the FFC that connect the main board to the laser has broken and needs replacing.

The FFC specs are the following:
- AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1
- Type B
- 7 Pins
- Length ~ 80mm (real scale is 78.9mm)
- 0.5mm Pitch (calculated by using the width/pin number +1 formula)

I've been searching and cannot locate anything matching those exact specs. I purchased a cable that fit everything but the length, and then realized the voltage drop was a major issue.

The laser board is supposed to get ~3.3V.

Could someone help me locate a proper cable to purchase to fix my mouse? I'm very saddened by the loss of it.

I did find 100 mm Length cables on AliExpress that match all the other specs, I'm just worried that the length difference will make the mouse not work.

Can provide more details via multimeter if necessary.

I'm really desperate here, so any and all help will be very appreciated.

Update:

I've found lots of listings for the needed specs, outside of them, not being type B (reversed).

TL;DR: Need help finding a replacement FFC cable for my Roccat Tyon Mouse. Specs: AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1, Type B, 7 pins, ~80mm, 0.5mm pitch. Found 100mm cables, but unsure if length difference will cause issues. Any advice is appreciated!

Hello guys. I have a question. I am dealing with diy the production of a modified version of the BNC galvanic isolator, and after inspecting the finished, comercial sold product, the SDI isolator, I cannot find out what type of isolating transformer it is in. I am sending a photo. It's also strange to me why the shield is divided into two branches that connect again at the end of board. Thx for your time.

It's a stupid question, so my apologies in advance, I understand how silly it is.

I'm a complete noob to electronics, never built anything, and I am looking to understand what it takes to be able to accompish the following.

I would like to get my hands on a Neurophone NF3, developed by Dr. Patrick Flanagan, however the cost is +$800, I'm assuming because it's not manufactured anymore, or something.

My first question is, would it cost more to purchase all necessary hardware to build one, than it would cost to just purchase one online for $800?

My second question is, how many years of perosnal education should I expect to spend to learn to build such a device?

As far as I can gather, I would need to be able to purchase and work with:

• Piezoelectric transducers
• Modulation Circuits
• Electrodes
• Circuit Design for: Audio Input Stage, Carrier Wave Generator, Modulation Circuit, Output Stage

Is this more of a 7-10 year learning journey, or 1-2 year? just looking for generic answers.

Hey everyone,

I have a Samsung The Frame Music, and I want to replace the photo panel (the decorative cover over the speakers) with a functional screen. The goal is to have a secondary display that could show album art, visuals, or maybe even act as an extra monitor.

I’m open to different solutions, like using a small LCD, OLED, or even an e-paper display if that makes more sense. If anyone has done a similar project or has ideas on what components I should use, I’d love some guidance!

Where I Need Help:

• Best type of screen for this setup
• Powering and connecting the screen
• General feasibility of this project

Hot-swappable socket of a macro keyboard stopped working. The SMD pad had been ripped out. Solution? Two component epoxy on both sides of ALL sockets and flying wire to connect the missing pad.

I'm curious about this because I have a few rechargeable battery operated motion sensors and nightlights around the house that I hope I can somehow hook to the mains power.

As I have been dabbling in a bit of electronics lately, I know there are breadboard power modules like the MB-V2/545043 that use AMS1117 power regulators to convert USB delivered power down to 5v and 3.3v. So I was wondering maybe there's some off the shelf product that can do something similar, except the voltages are compatible with that of AA batteries? Alternatively, a product that takes in power from USB and outputs 1.5v 50mA would suffice too.

I bought a servo for a battery spot weeks removal tool. Unfortunately the controller jumpers don't match the instructions. I don't want pulse modulation. I want to control it with a potentiometer which seems to be called AD. Any thoughts?

I'm trying to collect The energy from 44 10,000 microfarad capacitors. They are arranged in four rows of 11, and each row has a pair of solid 10 gage wires on either side that are mostly soldered together but it looks like crap because I couldn't get them perfectly straight.

I've got some scraps of one inch copper pipe laying around, and I've done the math and a strip of the pipe material half inch wide would be equivalent to the pair of 10 gage conductors. but it occurs to me that the conductivity might be Significantly different and if so I need to factor that in

I am using a DIY USB splitter cable to power two ESP32 devices from one USB power port (see diagram). I am not using the data lines - only the hot and ground.

However, I am seeing a little bit of LED flicker on the target devices that is not present when I connect them to power by themselves. Would adding Capacitor C1 between the +5v and Gnd lines fix this, and what value capacitor should I use? Or is there a different setup to accomplish this electrical smoothing?

Voltage = 5 volts; Current = 1 Amp.

Thanks in advance!

Input power is the connector on the left. The other two connectors go to loads.

I have a house full of disposable vapes, I am thinking of turning them into rechargeable flashlights using TP4056 charge controller. After that do i just connect the LED via a switch or do I need additional components?

I am also lead to believe the TP4056 has a constant drain on the battery, how is this best addressed?

I would like everything to fit into the existing body of the vape but may have to print a case.

Picked up 2 batteries today, now just trying to get some ideas of what to do with them.

Could be lighting for in Shed, or Lighting for in Garden, not sure yet, and not sure what other parts i might need to buy to make possible.

Any thoughts on what project i can do with these ?

I need to power raspberry pi zero 2w devices and/or pi 4/5 directly from the monitor power.

where do i need to start to figure this out? I am comfortable with electronics, soldering, etc but have never made anything "custom" like this so any guidance is appreciated.

Hi Guys,

I’m fairly new with diy electronics, but me and my son are experimenting with it. We have an electric toy car with these connectors (I don’t know if this is the right way to call it). When you plug these connectors into each other the power is on, and when you unplug these the power goes off. When you want to charge the car, you need to plug the male connector into to female connector attached to the charger.

Our primary goal is to turn the car on and off with a switch. We don’t know the name of this connector, so I can’t look up if an adapter for it exists.

Our second goal is to charge the car without unplugging the power. As I mentioned before, currently we can only charge the car by plugging in the male connector into the charger because the (un)plugging of these connectors requires a partial disassembly of the car, because it’s all on the inside. We want to create a charge port so we can simply plug the charger into it.

If someone has any ideas/suggestions please let us know! We’d also like to know the name of these connectors for our knowledge!

Thanks!

Hello, 🙋🏻‍♂️ I am in need of some electrical advice. My grandma through elderliness has damaged the plug of her plug in radiator and caused the fuse to blow. The prongs? have burnt the sockets of the extension lead so my aim is to replace the plug. Previously I've taken things to an electricians shop to be fixed but can't do that with a radiator so I'll have to learn. Is there a special plug? Or are all plugs the same and I just need to put in the correct fuse? The aim is to snip off the plug, strip it back and wire into a new plug. Any advice appreciated.