i modelled and animated this teapot in blender. i used dithering to make it look pretty in monochrome.

i’m using an STM32 black pill with an SSD1315 OLED. i wrote the OLED i2c drivers mysielfo.

i used STM32CubeMx to generate the project, VSCode as an IDE, and OpenOCD for debugging, and a STLink clone for flashing.

i think i can get the frame rate much higher for a smoother animation, but i don’t really care enough to do so lol

i’m trying to re-learn embedded without using arduino.

gif animation: https://imgur.io/a/ZRWwmR4

The wiring on these is a bit too short. What type of wire do I need exactly?

I graduated earlier this month with an Associates in Electrical Power and Controls and like the title says I don’t want forget but I also want to have some kind of hands on experience. I’ve been practicing PLC programming and using Autocad but other than going over my notes I’m not sure what else I could be doing. I’ve been looking for a job in my area but nothing has come of it yet. Can you point me in the right direction if this isn’t the right sub.

Wired piezo with stero female jack. I have proper sound in stereo but not in mono. Both L and R are getting the same signal. Theoretically, there should not be a problem, which way is the L and R wires connected to female jack pins. For some reason, I dont get left or right audio when I connect stereo female with mono male jack. Mono male jack only works when the tip is connecting with a longer pin inside the female barrel. Any suggestions and ideas how to fix issue?

Can see a spark inside when I press the button but motor doesn’t move. Any thoughts?

When I started planning for this project I didn't expect this to be the most challenging component to find. I need a stiff floor that I can cut through. I tried melting and flattening a PVC pipe but it didn't work. I'm thinking about wood. Are there any better alternatives?

I have a car battery that I use for a trolling motor for a jon boat.

Can I just leave the solar panel connected to the battery indefinitely while it’s not being used until or will that cause problems?

I was wondering if anyone know if this would be a viable option for a small tabletop CNC. I don't have any specs on it. Maxon won't send me specs as the motor is a special design for a medical company.

Hey all, how can I add RGB Lighting to an Cherry MX Red Switch? I havent seen an LED Switch Yet, so please help out!

I hope this is the right page to ask this. This is a control panel from an old cutting table at my work. I love the retro buttons and think it would look great turned into a lamp or switch for a light. I have no experience in electronics and can’t find how to do anything similar online. Would appreciate any advice/help!

These lights use a bulb that I need to order online from China. I can't even find them at specialist light stores and hardware stores here.

I want to retrofit these fittings so that I can install a regular light screw socket. I had an electrician over earlier for a quote and he quoted me $2k for 8 lights retrofitted. He also said that he wouldn't be able to convert it to a screw in socket, and that my alternative is basically LED's. So failing that, any alternative that isn't crappy like these would be considered great advice! Will it be a challenge to do this myself?

Hello! I am currently working on a project for a haunted house I am working on. This is a salvaged animatronic head that I am repurposing as basically a flashlight that looks like somebody's decapitated head. I have taken a light from a flashlight, and put it into a hole on his forehead. The eyes glow and the jaw opens whenever power is given to the whole thing. I have these wired so that they're all in the same circuit. The power source feeds from the positive end of the flashlight to the positive end of the motor, returning to the battery from the negative end of the motor. My questions is: How can I make this more power efficient? None of the batteries I have used hold it for too long. The motor is a simple DC motor, and I assume the eyes are LED'S (the way the casing is, I can't just break it open and see without damaging the actual eye). I have lots of odds and ends with electronics parts that I've collected from old electronics I've found, so maybe I could some parts from that? Thank you for your time!

Hello everyone I am noob when it comes to wiring. I bought a 24v 50 watt DC cabinet mini industrial ptc fan heater. Which I plan to heat my AMS system which is a multi materials filament system for color prints on my Bambu labs X1Carbon 3D printer. I also bought a WiFi remote control thermostat Digital Temperature Controller Module that is 6-30V 10 Amp. I bought two separate power supplies one that is 110V to 220V AC switched to DC 24V 70 watts for the heater. I bought another power supply for the thermostat controller. The power supply is a 30V 300 watt power supply. What my question is that if I hook each power supply to its part can I then hook the thermostat to the heater without them hurting each other? The thermostat has 4 spots to connect things on the back 2 are for power an the other 2 are for what says relay switch. How would I go about connecting these two. If anyone can help or DM me I am will to tip. I will be more than happy to link the parts and power supplies in question. I tried earlier and reddit removed tge link for some reason

1. I can remove the rear seat cushion and the buttons in the rear console are blank, but i cant just install an aftermarket OEM heated seat with those OEM buttons as there's no way to wire under the floor. Any wireless heated seat?

2. The floor AC vents under the front seats. Any sort of small rubber tube i can use to redirect the air flow from AC pointing upwards?

Finally finished my computer built entirely from transistors! Had some problems which delayed the build but it is over now. Tested it on several programs, like the above helloworld and dinosaur game (which for some reason i cannot upload).

It is an

• 11 bit cpu
• more than 2000 transistors
• Arduino as memory
• 32 micromemory/ROM addresses
• accumulator architecture
• 8 branch flags
• connects to LCD and keyboard
• has stack pointer register so supports recursive function calling

Currently on a trip but will open source it when I get back and clean the repo.

Posted here before: 1 2 and got requests to go more in depth, so i made an interactive blog where I explain it all (havent finished all the posts yet): Overview Logic gate construction Decoder construction Register (You can see all the planned posts in burger top left they include micromemory, signals, stack...).

I also made a web based simulator for it: simulator.

Some supported instructions are:

• Add addr (adds value at addr to accumulator)
• Addi val (adds val to acc)
• Not, Nand
• B addr (Branch to addr)
• Bz (beanch zero), Bnz, ...
• sp2acc (move stack pointer to acc)
• acc2sp, pc2acc, acc2sp...

i took this small LCD display out of a mini game player, the only labelling as far as i know is this on the back, is it possible to find a control panel or not?

Hi,

This might be a long shot, but I'll still try. I've got a generator that is not being used. It is one which is powered by tractor via PTO. So the electricity gets generated by the kinetic energy supplied by the tractor.

Now I am wondering if it is possible to reverse the generator in some sort of way, so it can function as an electric PTO. With this, I mean that by supplying the generator with electricity, it should create the kinetic energy to make it able to function as PTO.

Is this a possibility? And how big of a change, challenge and effort would it be?

I just bought a vintage voltage converter (230-110V) and when it arrived something green and sticky has leaked inside.

What could it be, is it the blue choke that cracked and spilled its guts? The data sheets I can find for similar devices don’t mention of oil/resins inside.

What would be the best way to connect this terminal to wire?

Ideas included - wrapping wire through the loop a few times —> soldering —> hear shrink

I’m not sure what the name of that connector is otherwise I could just by female versions to match it and connect wire to them

Hi people,

I am looking to start a website for curated projects and curated parts in electronics. I have personally gone through the pain of ordering a part from Adafruit, a fingerprint sensor which never worked, and their tech support team literally did not take any responsibility for the defective part.

Think of it as an al-carte and buffet menu of digital projects covering length and breadth of beginner, intermediate and advanced level electronics, programming, and robotics. Example, you want to learn 555 Timer and its applications, and we offer a digital projects pack on 555 covering all important concepts- Monostable, Astable, Bistable, PWM, H-Bridge, etc. You buy the project pack from us, and have the option to order pre-tested parts from an authorized supplier.

Project pack will contain photographic step-by-step instructions, complete theory behind the project (indepth manuals), experimental readings and what instruments to use (multimeter, Oscilloscope).

I have started building the project packs already. I am wondering about the business model and pricing. Any suggestions? What if we charge a reasonable price of $10-$25 per project based on the complexity of the project? Or offer a bundle for say $60?

What do you think are the most pressing issues for a beginner trying to learn electronics? Is is the parts or organised curriculum or technical support?

In 555, I have planned around 11 projects covering all key concepts and ideas. I want to cover complete analog and digital electronics doing this.

What are your thoughts?

I want to create something valuable for the community.

An example of 555 as monostable below:

555 output on oscilloscope

555 timer as monostable

​

Thank you,

Jimmy

Hi. If I have a couple of devices I want to communicate by UART, but in a noisy environment. Is it possible to use 2 canbus trancievers like MCP2551 to directly connect RX, TX. Then do half duplex serial to take advantage of the differential signalling of canbus?

This is hypothetical, but something I have been wondering for a while. Of course with RS-485 it's straight forward, but Im not sure if a canbus tranciever does anything to the signal other than modulating it to +-10v...

I'm curious if there is a cheap way or option to line the windows of my apartment with an LED strip that will gradually get brighter to a certain point.

Essentially I live in Canada, and my employment does not offer the opportunity of living like a human being such as getting up as the sun rises. I am looking to counteract my human nature by adding window perimeter lighting that will start at a specific time at a lower brightness then gradually increase in brightness to a desired point. Preferably supporting blue light.

Is this easier / cheaper to DIY or are there reasonably priced options in Canada that already support such features?

I have a bunch of INR18650MH1 cells. Was thinking 4s31p configuration. How would the spot welding look like and what type of BMS do people recommend? I ordered 4p cell fusing from battery hook up. So maybe a better question would be what cell configuration be?

Hi all, I have a dashcam that has the ability to record when the car is off, along to when it is on (I have it set to timelapse when my car is not on).

For that function to work, it has two +12 lines... one that connects to a circuit in the car that is always on, and one that connects to an accessory circuit to detect if the car is running. The problem lies with the logic in my car... despite the dashcam having voltage protection, my car is too sensitive about battery voltage, and complains when it is connected (despite the car starting fine and the battery checking normal).

I have a small 7AH sealed lead-acid battery that I'd like to use as the bushing between the car battery and the dashcam for it to pull from when the car isn't on, and for the car to charge when it's running. My research for a premade device for this hasn't been very successful (everything is skewed with using a car battery charger to charge a SLA battery). I have included a crude drawing of what I'm trying to do in case it helps.

​

https://preview.redd.it/xrasvzzp1bpb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=67f8ea70d3519776efc66f965dab477e2f6558e7

Hi all,

I'm not really sure where to ask this but I figured I can start here.

I'm thinking about doing a Gopro 9 naked conversion with the namelessRC kit . In the kit, it has a BEC module with a connection specifically for LiPO batteries and my question is if I can somehow power it with a usb-c connection from other external power banks. I currently don't own any LiPO batteries and not really sure if I want to get one yet specifically for my camera.

https://preview.redd.it/w8dve9bj0bpb1.png?width=472&format=png&auto=webp&s=8d8b9b1b82a8a8e9268dfb9594d150336a1411ef

I saw this cable, 5V Balance Plug Charging Cable for GoPro Hero, and thought maybe I could use one like it to connect to the BEC module on one end and a USB-C charging bank on the other and run the gopro that way.

https://preview.redd.it/u0b3jzr00bpb1.jpg?width=342&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0fcc5af141043c3efe3bc0029810d3e7f73109f3

For context, the USB-C port on my gopro stopped working properly and trying to clean it out didn't help. It still worked but only at a certain angle and won't consistently stay connected. I managed to open it up and get it a replacement USB-C charging port which works fine now. However, Gopro purposely making it difficult to repair, the back screen doesn't close nicely anymore which is why I'm looking at a new case for the hardware.

I need to solder some wires into a PCB, im dont really master soldering small pads or pins, so i need some help.

I have a question too, those pads are already tinned, soldered, so can i apply some more tin and solder the wires directly? or do i need to desolder before?

https://preview.redd.it/akpz5jjheapb1.png?width=514&format=png&auto=webp&s=b50891bd710964eda67e883699e145c84043e592

Hi,

I'd like to control my 12V AC dimmable bulbs using microcontroller so I can change light intensity in my apartment and/or individualy turn them on/off remotely.

My concept for a device looks like this: Mainboard with microcontroller, connectors and modules on separate PCBs for driving AC part, plugged directly to mainboard. All switches in apartment routed to ADCs (4-20mA interface using XTR116 IC), digital communication through RS-485.

1. Is this correct approach to control MOSFETs in AC? Should I add or change something here? My bulbs can be driven with trailing edge technique.
2. Do I need to add RC snubber on input/output?
3. I know, zener diode is not the best idea (power waste) and I will change it later with some LDO or go cheap with BJT + zener. Same goes with C1 - I see I might not need 220uF capacitor here.
4. Is it acceptable to use standard 2,54mm goldpins / sockets for 15W loads? I saw Connfly goldpins are rated for 2A. I plan to put slow blow fuses on mainboard to keep these modules as small as possible.
5. Why 12V LED bulbs? They're cheaper here.