Hello everyone, I hope you’re all doing well!

I’d like some help on getting some scratches off my laptop.

It’s a dark blue colour so the scratches really spoil the beauty of it. I’m planning to buy a protector too.

I’d appreciate any help, thank you so much!!

i have installed a Kill Switch in my car to prevent theft.

instead of pressing a button though, i routed the car's USB port to the KS circuit. now, to start the car, i have to insert a special USB flash drive. all of the pins of this USB stick are shorted out, thereby completing the circuit of the KS for the car to operate...

i would like to upgrade my USB stick to something nicer like this metallic small usb stick. any idea how i can short all of the pins? i suppose a small piece of metal bar will suffice. but since im not a machinist, i would not know where to find and shape a metallic piece with dimensions to fit into the usb port....

https://preview.redd.it/zzktx3bd4z1e1.png?width=574&format=png&auto=webp&s=477f851c5e1e6c2468f355c61ca796f35a44f23c

Hello all, Christmas is coming up and I would really love to use opportunity to get into robotic creations / DIY electronics. Do you guys have any suggestions on beginner projects that have materials that I could easily ask for Christmas and aren't super complicated? I am 16 years old if that helps. Thank you so much!

Thinking I need to replace the circuit board. The dishwasher has stopped draining. Thinking it was a bad pump, I replaced it, but same result. Now I'm looking at schematics and the control board, and there's corrosion on capacitors and looks like the contact to the wash/rinse relay is burned out. Hopefully the photos (more in comments) can give an idea of what I'm dealing with.

I recently acquired an old film projector but the lamp burned out the first time I used it

Instead of spending $250 on a replacement bulb i figured I would just rig up an LED array in it's place

It's a 120v AC circuit so I should just be able to cannibalize an equivalent standard LED bulb to fit the socket right? I feel like it should work but I figured I would ask the hivemind for an idiot check before I set the thing on fire somehow.

I am working on a project that involves 2 6v motors and 2 5v 2A 10w light panels. How should I power this? I have potentiometer for the motors other then that I plan to keep it simple.

Btw it's a wave generator for physical science

So I got some water damage on my tablet, the screen was broken since water seeped into the under layers and I had to replace it, I noticed it wasn't letting me draw so I replaced the Wacom ribbon since corrosion had borked the resistance in one of the pins. Now it was working, or so I thought, and finally glued it back together.

As you can see here there's a big sensitivity jump in the middle, and before you suggest it, no I dont use a magnetic case, never have, any ideas? I want suggestions before I go ahead and order the replacement Wacom board, that's my suspected culprit

PD like this in something like this

About 7-ish watt will be flowing through it.

Unsure whether the plastic is flamable & not sure how hot PD triggers get (esp in air constrained environment

hi everybody, i am being forced to become a diy electrician at my job and i have no one to ask questions to, and i want to make sure im about to solder these correctly.

i am trying to solder these 3 pin connectors onto a lead connecting to an LED strip and can’t find the wiring diagram for the connectors that tells me what’s power, ground, and neutral. on my drawing, the info for the lead is correct (and, if it matters, on the led strip there are wires coming off where red is power, white is neutral, and black is ground).

based on research, i think how i have it in the drawing is correct, but i want to confirm. there’s a little triangle above the red wire on the connector but i don’t know what’s that’s indicating.

thank you for your help!

Bought a Leviton polarized replacement plug for my Bissell vacuum. The old plug itself is bent from years of abuse. Been reading and seems like a pretty straightforward project. But my vacuum plug is rounded, not flat. And nowhere on the plug does it say 15 amp, 125 volt that all the guides say. Wondering if I can still use this replacement. Haven’t gotten it from Amazon yet but would it crimp the wire enough? Do they even make replacement ones with a round opening?

So recently i've bought a display, (It has come the day that I'm writing this post, and i've been using it for maybe only 3 hours) and the issue is, that its brightness was 300cd/m2 on the website, but my 400cd/m2 screen, even on 40% brightness, and even on 15% brightness, is much brighter than this LCD thing, also even my phone (Samsung s20) on 10% is the same as the LCD screen brightness, what can i do in this situation, should i return it for a better screen, or should i try doing something to make it much brighter, i don't know anything about electronics, like these, so i would highly want some help from the community.

the display

the pcb (back)

the pcb (front)

i was thinking of changing the USB A to DC power supply cable, to a different one, but idk if that would make a difference, if i put a stronger one, like 12v, instead of i think its 5v, but I'm not sure, can you give me some suggestions on how can i make it much brighter

(I've already set the display settings, as best image quality, to brightness, and the same in windows NVIDIA control panel, so it can't get brighter without just being washed out)

I live in a country where we don't have continuous running water, instead we get 2-3 bursts of 2-4 hours of water current in a week, and we store that water in water tanks on the roof of our houses (flat roofs). So we need electric pumps to pump the water the government gives to our roofs. My first problem is when the water current first flows into the neighborhood. The pump used to not turn on automatically, the sensor was fucked. Now it turns on but it doesn't actually pump up any water when I go check the tank, so there's a faucet connected to the pump's pipe that I have to turn on and let the incoming water current run for like 25 seconds then turn off the faucet AND ONLY THEN the water flows into the tank upstairs, Im aware that it's a problem with air getting trapped but I would love to hear a smarter explanation. My second problem is that the flow of water is SUPER WEAK when it reaches the tank, and apparently our pump is really good so it's not the pump's fault, but Im not sure about that, I would really benefit in finding a fix to these problems so we can get better water flow into our tanks and homes. I haven't even mentioned there's two tanks that need to be filled, one of them is for a family living in the first floor, and they don't get ANY water flow at all. The thing is, it wasn't like this around 9-10 months ago, both got good flow. The position of the incoming current pipes and the pump itself were changed and I wonder if position/orientation of those two actually plays a role? Also our house is in the middle of the "block" and again 3 floors and quite tall so that's definitely a factor to why we're getting less water as well. ALSO IF THIS ISNT THE RIGHT SUBREDDIT FOR THIS LET ME KNOW A BETTER ONE, I CAN ALSO PROVIDE IMAGES OF THE PUMP AND ITS SETUP. THANKS

What do you call the little IC and antenna circuits that they use in RFID key fobs? Specifically the little 25mm/1in circular ones?

I'm trying to include some in a project but salvaging them from fobs is proving troublesome.
I was hoping I could use a reflow station to just melt the glue holding it to the plastic but not breaking those thin wires is a challenge. I'd much rather just buy 20 of them pre-gluing.

Hi all,

I'm working on a "writerdeck" kinda project. It's a small printer connected to ChatGPT which lets you enter prompts to print out short stories, language learning assignments, etc. (think BERG little printer meats AI):

3D CAD of the project

The deck uses an ESP32-S3 devkit and features a 4inch display (top left), thermal printer (top right) and 40% mechanical keyboard. Now I'm looking at ways to power it. Past projects I've made used wired USB power, however, the printer uses 9V/2A when printing, plus I want it to be portable. Therefore I'm looking at options for battery power, but I'm not sure how to best continue and would love some community feedback :)

18650 2S pack

A friend of mine has supplies/tools to build a custom battery pack. I think* a 2S configuration would work (and fits nicely behind the thermal printer), combined with buck and boost converters. But do you guys have nice suggestions for a BMS and charger module pair for such a 2S1P setup? I found the HX-2S-A2 module for BMS, but saw some comments that it might not pair nicely with a charger module?

Powerbank

I found posts regarding 2S battery packs (thank you Gigabrain), where it is recommended to just use a standard powerbank, as these already have the nice circuitry and can supply the right power. For this the Kuulaa Ultra Slim 5000 mAh powerbank looks nice, as it's very small and potentially fits in the enclosure I designed. However, I'm not sure if it can provide the 9V/2A power consistently and I'm less enthusiastic that it would not be an integrated component (the same USB port is used to charge the powerbank, as is used to power the deck, so it would mean I'd have to switch out this cable going from one mode to the other).

I hope this gives a clear overview of my project and predicament. Hopefully you are intrigued by it and can provide me with some words of wisdom/encouragement :) If you are intrigued but need more information to make a better recommendation I am happy to provide it of course.

*my thinking is largely directed by ChatGPT and therefore I'm also unsure how solid of an idea this is.

Backstory: for Secret Santa I usually make a homemade present. I can make it a lot more personal and flex the budget a bit easier, I feel like. I've had a lot of success with personalized lithophane pictures, a lamp with lithophanes around it etc. 3d printed lithophanes are always a hit.

Now I want to level it up a bit more this year. My Santa receiver this year is an avid travaller. I had the idea of a lithophane of the world map backlit with LEDs in the places (or countries, depending on how feasible) she has visited already. I looked around for for something like this idea already existed and came across this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5147760

This is pretty much what I'm after, but the 3d print I can probably do on my own. The electronics... Not so much. The thingiverse link doesn't quite go into detail what would be needed to complete the project.

My question: would it be feasible at all to do this within a budget of 20 euros (excluding 3d printing materials) or a bit more? If so, I'm getting a bit lost in all the electronic components and which ones are compatible, which are necessary, ...

If anyone wants to take this one up or steer me in a better direction, it would be much appreciated!

howzit. i recently found an old 7" digital picture frame and began messing around with it, decided i wanted to try use it as a monitor for fun. took it apart and disconnected the lcd display, found the datasheet and now need to find a compatible circuit board with hdmi. i have very limited experience with this so if anyone could give me advice on how to find a board for it that would be really appreciated.

this is the datasheet if it helps https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qpWTiLq8qzSX6dsUJDBMUIYZYIopKIpn/view?usp=sharing

Hi everyone,

I accidentally dropped my Panasonic ER1611, and now it’s completely unusable. The cutting blades have come loose, and I found a separate piece (see attached images). I’ve never noticed this piece before, so I’m not sure how it fits back into place.

I’ve tried inspecting the clipper and the blade, but I can’t figure out how to reattach it. The clipper itself seems intact, and I don’t see any obvious broken parts, but the blades just won’t stay on.

Does anyone know how to fix this or reattach the blades properly? If something is damaged, do I need to replace the blade entirely, or is there a repair trick? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

So this is for a magic trick idea: I'm thinking of a small battery-operated gadget that can heat a coin when in close proximity. Originally I was thinking about a small-scale circuit similar to an Induction Cooktop, but couldn't find anything, not even a circuit diagram.

Is this at all feasible..?

https://preview.redd.it/i960ge5j4u1e1.png?width=200&format=png&auto=webp&s=9644a600635e4fcc6871cb7cdf64885dfc53318b

So i need a way to pump air inline, where the air comes in (dry ice vapor) and gets pressurized and goes out the other if you get what i mean, it has to be small, what type do i use??

https://preview.redd.it/euc3609yus1e1.png?width=1274&format=png&auto=webp&s=86c31f6cdf06391bbeaace6222e30a6a13a14fcc

Hello everyone,

Quick background, my sister plugged in a 110V appliance (Yamaha PF70) to a 220V socket many years ago and i’m trying to bring it back to life. Upon checking I got a blown out fuse (F1) near the power supply. After replacing F1, F2 and F3 blows. Then I checked the next component after the fuse it seems the rectifier is shorted (0.6A both ways). This is the shorted rectifier (image 1).

My question is can I replace this rectifier (image 2) with the currently installed rectifier (image 1)? I know the installed rectifier is 200V and the replacement is 100V. Just wanted to know what would happen and, of course, is it safe. Trying to get into fixing electronics, so any comments and suggestions would be great. Thanks!

Anyone know how to disconnect the wifi in an LG smart fridge?

I want to disconnect this humidistat control board so I could simply keep the fan on all the time. Is it possible to tell from the photo whether it can be simply popped off? This is the unit.

hey all, I was going to replace this plug due to an overheating issue (duraheat model EUH1500), and then I realized there is no ground wire connected to the green screw.. is this normal? (I don't have much knowledge on circuitry)

I want to create a circuit that will use a motion sensor to activate a magnet when an object passes in front. Any help would be dearly appreciated.

Edit: why am I getting so much backlash? I came here for help as I am new to it and only got 2 answers and test telling me off.

Trying to build diy "snowblind" pc case display,but can't seem to find lvds controller board for that display from aliexpress nor ebay...also I haven't ever done anything like this how does the display get powered ? I can't seem to attach a picture in here,but it is a LP141WP2 14.1 WXGA+ display

I've been researching different types of dynamometers, but I'm unsure where this lever-scale type fits in. Your response would be greatly appreciated.