For me, I would love to see parallel circuits taught earlier. Circuit configurations can be confusing but, it shows that more batteries isn't always the answer to things lighting LED's up!

Hello all. I have a Jetson Xavier, roboclaw 2x45A, and a USB extender. I plan on putting these in a box and I would like to run them all off of the same power supply, rather than having three separate cords going into the box. I need a power supply that can power the Jetson with 12 V, the Robo claw with 12 V, and the USB extender with 5 V. Does anybody have any suggestions on what power supply to use so that I can power all three of these at once? Any input would be greatly appreciated

So I work in a place where we use radio for communication. Is it possible for me to get a device I can connect to both the radio and my phone such that I can play music through my phone but when someone starts speaking on the radio, the music pauses and when they are done speaking it continues to play.

how do i increase the pitch of a speaker? i'm currently working on a sonic cannon to ward people off via sound, and i have 4 d batteries, ONE SINGULAR CAPACITER, pretty much infinite resistors, and a bunch of transistors. (those funky lil three-legged things).

Wanting to learn how to solder and I think doing a basic portable Xbox 360 (2005) project could be pretty cool. nothing super elaborate.

I just want to add a screen to the console in a way I can get rid of the HDMI port, and same with adding some rudimentary speakers or a 3.5mm aux port.

I've seen videos on basic soldering, but I'm having a hard time finding what things to look for when picking an LCD screen, what I should actually be soldering together, etc. I'm a Mechanical engineering undergrad so my circuits knowledge is more on the basic side. Apologies if I sound elementary lol.

Any guidance or resources is hugely appreciated. I could just be not finding the right resources.

I have this little heater with no controls. It has a cut off switch on the bottom so if it knocks over it can't run.

I can pull it apart and show the board or whatever's inside if needed.

I'm wondering what sort of knob/ dimmer/ potentiometer/ pwm/ rheostat/ etc I can use to dial back this things output. It's way overpowered for the small bathroom it's in.

https://imgur.com/a/GEpsPuI

I found a box full of old phones from around 2005. It seems like someone who ran a cell phone repair shop discarded them. I haven’t tested all the phones yet, but I know that some of them works well while others have no repair.

Do you guys have any ideas on what I could do with these old phones?

I’ve tested all the leds and they’re good. This unit has Running Lights (all leds lit dim), Stop Lights (all leds lit bright), Turn Signals (left or right half of lights lit yellow). I can power it up and test whatever else would help the diagnosis. I am pretty sure since everything works independently that it’s just the two loose wires. I can provide as many more pics of either side of any of the boards as necessary as well.

Good Morning All.

Now I've gone and done it! Wife and I bought a big old "new" 100yo colonial house and a guy can dream, right??? I'm building a sauna and a steam shower in the basement.

The challenge,,,, I am still and perhaps will ALWAYS be at bottom of a steep learning curve with electronics... Anywho,,,

These things (Thermosol Steam Suite ASD450) NEW are in the thousands. That plus all the building materials, time and energy. This one "for repair" on eBay was $29.00 plus $75 shipping. I thought, what could go wrong??? Famous last words,,,,

From there, like a nut, I went and order a 400$$$ controller. I didn't see any choice. Can't test it exactly without the controller - as far as I know.

Anyways. With what I present here, do you guys think you can get me on a path to getting the wiring in the right place and getting some power to it??? I have the 240v ready. I am waiting on the controller, I just have what looks like a one or two loose wires floating around...

What do ya think? I just got the unit in my hands,,, what does this circuit schematic and board look like to y'all??? Pretty straightforward, a nightmare? Workable? What do ya see? Tell me what to do or what you need to help me out...

Super appreciative, in advance!

https://preview.redd.it/vmvlaydjyf7e1.jpg?width=1069&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d9f5df7c2bb979baef5f61901d5e591477da9579

Schematic. I dont know how to add additional images...?

I'm worried that repeated moving of the power cord might cut through the insulation. Is this fine, or should I use a different connector? The current connector is made for NM wire.

hey all, so ive purchased these ikea solar lights to help illuminate the outside a bit more but ive noticed that side doesnt get as much sun as i thoughtand so the lights are illuminated for a few hours after sunset and then its pitch black 😃

i would like to hard wire all 6 light poles to a socket inside and wanted to see how to go about getting started on this? i will want to wire this properly (aka secure it, waterproof etc...)

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/solvinden-led-solar-powered-lighting-cylinder-aluminium-colour-20513730/

Hi everyone,

I was replacing the digitizer on my Nintendo DSi, and when I was trying to disconnect the LCD backlight cable, I accidentally broke the tiny locking flap on the ZIF connector. On top of that, I think some of the pins on the connector may have snapped off as well.

I do have some basic soldering skills, but not much, so I’d really prefer not to replace the entire ZIF connector if I can avoid it. Is there any other way to work around this issue and still get the backlight working? I’m open to DIY solutions if they’re not too advanced.

Thanks for any advice or ideas you can share!

https://preview.redd.it/mz7kuti24f7e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b174f8fa9f03d01d4182f7f82be0b6b19c43f17

Hi all,

I have a Acer H7550BD projector that works for around 5 minutes before he gives the error: "Thermal failure". I see that the middle fan is working properly and there is no dust. Further is only the right back fan working, all the other fans don't work. The bulb also heats up pretty fast, like within the minute, the bulb is untouchable hot. Even with the both fans working and manually making the front right fan work (With a power supply). Could it be that the bulb needs replacement? Any other feedback is welcome!

My 3d printer was released with a fire safety hazard. The SSR would overheat because it was rated too low. So the company released a fix. But most users that have to fix the issue are just wanting to upgrade the components. Personally, i want to be able to increase the temperature as a little more but safely. There is a github that explains its all and suggests a circut and components to fix it. I've already recieved most of the components. 15A Panasonic SSR, heat sink, thermal paste, 125 C° thermal fuse, waco connectors and a 20mm fan to cool the SSR. I also see some people adding a secondary failsafe.

"The relay is controlled by the Heater Fan, ensuring that it remains closed only when the fan is actively cooling the chamber. This configuration ensures that the heater can only operate when proper ventilation is provided, preventing the heater from staying on in unsafe conditions, such as when the fan or printer shuts down."

So I have two questions for you guys: Is the additional relay overkill? It seems to be rated lower than the main one. I understand that its linked to the heater fan but idk... sounds redundant. My second question is kinda related. When I add or upgrade any cooling fans to my printer, how do I do that properly? Specifically, how do I know how much more power draw that I can add (if running a bigger/better fan). Besides connecting where the original fan was, if I want to add a secondary fan somewhere, can I just incorperate it with the current fan or if there is another port, connect there and enable it in the firmware? Im kinda thinking I'll need a better power source at some point... I'm not sure where that point is. Sorry this is complicated.

Replaced the 1800mah lipo battery into 4000mah lithium ion packs(2000mah each) because it doesn't take charge anymore and installed a separate charging circuit out of a tp4056 board I have laying around from my previous prototypes because the main one on the audio interface itself is busted.

Usb c port > charge module > audio board/batteries

Not my best work but it works fine.

I’m having trouble pulling this crimp connector off the circuit board male post. It rocks back and forth over the male post but won’t slide off. Feels like there is a lock that it is pivoting on. Before I wreck this circuit board yanking this off, just wondering if I am missing something (other than brains). I know some of these connectors/posts do have locks. I just can’t figure this one out. Has anybody seen a connector like this that locks?

Hi.

Im trying to fix this old camcorder i found however it does not want to turn on apparently. There is a light next to the ON/OFF switch however even after i switch it to on after connecting the battery it still does not light up however the monitor in the view finder flashes for a second or two even if this switch is set to OFF. Anyone have any ideas of what is happening here?

I did check for shorts in the wiring with a voltmeter by checking for continuity on positive and negative terminals and there was no beep. Ive ran out of ideas on what do do now, any one here knows what i should do?

This screen flashing can also be seen after pressing the eject button once again it dosent matter what the OFF/ON switch is set to and sometimes you can hear this very quiet clicking sound probably near where the tape is located.

I should also add that i do not have the original batteries for this camera and im connecting 4x1.5v batteries to the +/- terminals where the battery would go.

I would show a video however the subredit does not allow this here

Like the title says I installed this light but the wall switch doesn’t turn it off or on. It worked with the previous ceiling fan and light and the wall switch seems to be connected properly. Can anyone give me advice?

So I’m looking for the specific model of this DC motor driver, if anyone knows the exact one that’d be great. Thanks for your help!

A while back Microsoft killed off their VR Windows Mixed Reality thing, so WMR headsets started to stop working about a year ago.

I can't find any real DIY projects online that use a headset for parts for some DIY use. Wondering if anyone knows of any?

E.g. Turning each eye into a mini monitor? using the lenses for anything? Doing something with the controllers?

I have a set of LED lights with built-in timers that I want to make "always on." I saw some posts like this one where they simply bypassed the board.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/nl426i/im_trying_to_bypass_my_little_growlight_timer/#lightbox

However my concern is that the solution would bypass resistors needed to avoid the LEDs burning out prematurely. Would it be common for this kind of grow light LED's to have their own resistors built into near the bulb?

Best way to go about joining these wires?

Hi, Can someone help me identify a replacement ballast that will work?

hey guys :D i've been following this instructable for making a cool flex sensor glove using bend sensors made with conductive thread/velostat, and essentially i'm trying to map those values from each individual finger's sensor to a range of potential MIDI notes so the glove becomes this weird analogue synthesiser thing.

however, as i've reached the sewing stage in the project i'm already anticipating some potential points of failure due to the sheer amount of conductive threads i have extending from each sensor - it's like a one-way ticket to short circuit city.

i was just wondering if any of you guys knew any better/alternative approaches for making DIY bend sensors, should i try using something like conductive fabric instead, or something else entirely? this is my first e-textile project so any and all advice is super appreciated :D

Hi everyone! So I have a not that old stereo system, particularly an LG XC102 in really mint condition, as it was a gift from my dads old company, and we never really use it, and it has a decent amount of features, like aux through rca and standard 3.5 jack, usb connection I guess for an mp3 player, radio am/fm, and a cd player.

I would like to know if it's a good idea, or even a worth to take the insides and repurpose it into creating maybe a smaller audio interface, with a usb connection to my pc, in order to use the speakers, and also use the pause/skip/volume knob functionalities in it and remove the radio and cd features (basically use the internals to create something like a dac). I know I could simply connect the the aux which I do know, but the stereo is quite big for my desktop, so It would be nice to have something like that, and also a little bit more versatile, but using the amplifiers the stereo provides. Maybe using a simple arduino or Raspberry PI to control the stuff could also be possible.

I'm a complete beginner and searching the forums I kind of feel overwhelmed, and really get lost as I dont really know the terms use in audio electronics. I have knowledge on general electronics, I know how to solder electronics and how to design and 3d print things. Im not even close to be an expert, but this are the kind of things I do for fun, but I have never got into audio devices. So it would also be very helpful on tips to get this more information about this.

Consists of an overriding switch(3 position), 2 DPDT Relays and a timer. This controls the two linear actuators on two 4’ gates, and another box(wired the same) controls the smaller fabricated gate to the front yard.