I’m looking for a good way to put 50-70 A load on a connector. I’m on a robotics team, and every year we train in new students on our procedures for crimping, soldering, etc.. I want to do a demo with a good vs bad crimp, as well as use this load to evaluate different connectors for use. We use 12V DC SLA batteries for our robots, so ideally I’d like to use this as a power source too. I was looking at 100w 0.1 ohm resistors in parallel, but I’m having trouble with the calculations for what resistors I’d need for the power draw I want. I’d also like a way to slowly increase the draw if possible? Budget is a limitation, so a programmable load is likely out of the question.

I do research on wildlife and dream about attaching small GPS trackers to some of my animals to better understand migration patterns for the purposes of conservation and recovery.

I recently came across an open source GPS device called TickTag. It only weighs 0.65g which would be perfect for my study but does not actively transmit any data.

In 99% of cases, I wouldn’t be able to recover this GPS tracker so I need something that has that capability while also being super light weight (ethically needs to be less than 5% of total body mass). Battery life could be less than 45 days and isn’t a big factor and neither is the cost.

Commercially available products often put on songbirds are still too large to work in my circumstances.

I do not have a background in electrical engineering or computer science but have an interest in learning.

My question: With the technology we have today, is it possible to create a GPS tracker with the specifications that I need?

So I have been tinkering for long 2-3 years… Have mastered basics, bought experimented with ton of sensors, MCUs, PCB designs, tools and clever techniques etc… Now want to really design and develop a commercial hardware consumer electronics product as a startup. Finding it difficult to do so because there are aspects to going from DIY hobby mode to a hardware tech company…

Need some help on understanding the journey forward from those who travelled it… thanks

This is a power meter that stopped measuring whatever is plugged in. Opened it and saw what looks like some burn damage on the ribbon. It looks like the R8 resistor burnt right? If yes, now I need to figure out the resistance needed for a replacement :)

Ribbon cable was probably touching the resistor

Resistor close up

I am trying to build a Kirlian Photography device for a school project, and I need to build an onboard power supply for it. The input will be 1-3x 12V battery packs wired in series to produce a 12-36V DC input, and I need an AC output of at least 20kV, 15kHz but with a current of less than 5mA for safety reasons.

What components would I need to build this and what order should i wire them together in? I have a ZVS driver in my possession so if I could incorporate that somehow that would be cool. Any help would be appreciated!

Hello everyone!

I am building this little to power my electronic work tools from Battery and Power Supply.
Power Supply 12V
Batteries 14V LiIon

The idea is to have a hard priority on V1 (power supply) when it's plugged, and when unplugged it switches to battery (V2, 14V). This little IC was needed because of the higher voltage on the battery.

Also it's great because of the low loss of PFET vs Schottky diodes.

So far, it works great on breadboard, so I'm ready to make it a PCB.

1. Does my schematic makes sense? (FIG2)
2. Do I need additional diodes at outputs before polyfuses to protect the outputs furthermore, or the circuit is already protected enough by the PFET -- I really want to avoid additional voltage drop, and also want to avoid additional circuitry for an ideal diode. (FIG3)
3. Any recommendations? Advices? Complaints??

AD LTC4416 Schematic

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FIG1

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FIG2

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FIG3 (Is additionnal diodes Needed??

so i was wondering what exactly is the reason for such a setup to be used, what principle in physics is being used here?

Hi all:

I'm looking for a Audio CODEC (mono or stereo) that I can use in an audio streaming application. However, I need it to have some sort of remote control/telemetry functionality. This can range from GPIO pins on the "master" that, when toggled are reflected on the "slave", or it can be in the form of some sort of data that can be inserted into the audio stream that can be decoded by the controller for some purpose.

The audio would either need to be bi-directional, or I'd need two units to send audio in both directions.

I'm not sure what I should search for. I've looked up "audio codex with GPIO" and found a few, but there is no mention if that GPIO state can transfer across the data stream.

Any ideas of a good IC or function to search for?

Thanks.

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I'm building a prototype of a central storage fingerprint lock system. I want to store some fingerprints online on a web server, and then use the fingerprint sensor to match the fingerprint with the ones stored centrally. I am using nodemcu to send the data to the server, I tried to do this using Thingspeak but I was not able to accomplish this. I want to make multiple sensor devices and I want their fingerprints should be stored separately on the same server.

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Please help me make this circuit by giving some ideas or maybe giving some alternatives to achieve the same functionality.

I am making a trailcam that is going to take a picture every hour. I want it to be able to run for around 3 month and I don’t mind changing the battery once or twice.

The power consumption in deep sleep is supposed to be 10 micro amps but in reality because I am using a down stepper from a 9V battery to 5V (Mini 560) it hovers around 6mAh. When the ESP is active it uses up to 150mAh

Idk what powersource to use in the middle of a wooded forest. (I think I need 5V) suggestions?

I was considering making a DIY soldering station for carrying along and had the ide to use the bosch 18V system, as I have plenty of those packs.
In hindsight they would be great fo a lot of projects I think.

Maybe anyone with resources on this topic? Dont want to destroy them to quickly.

hi, I stumbled upon this little device that, when I click it emits a sound, I want to change the sound with a custom one, is it possible?

I bought it in a flea market thinking I could control some devices but I checked that works with Wattstopper products instead.

https://preview.redd.it/ldbz3asq3kwc1.jpg?width=523&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5fb00d6923acce8f7eb4fcb6973a40af0a7093b

https://preview.redd.it/gkdr681r3kwc1.jpg?width=584&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d22ce7696014e18915e1df8a47ef05cf26687a11

https://preview.redd.it/890zohdr3kwc1.jpg?width=710&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b91c52d17e55632ddbe37f84e51c972a9a617b6

I have this transformer from an Opti-Ups SS2000 that I salvaged and am trying to ID the primary and secondary windings. The multimeter isn't being super helpful so I was hoping someone might be able to help me with what to do... I numbered each wire so I could record the readings. The readings I got were: (in single digit ohms) From wires: 1-2: 5 1-3: 4.8 1-4: 0.5 2-3: No reading 2-4: 5.5 3-4: 5.3.

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

Bought bolts that were too long for mounting a sensor on the rear end of a dual-shaft stepper motor, and screwed them in too far. I no longer have continuity between my motor leads, I am pretty sure this damage is cause. Any possible way of fixing this? Trying to avoid spending $100 to buy another one, but I'm pretty sure it's done for.

oopsies

Building a 20s2p pack and my two 10s2p blocks fell into each others terminals. The blocks immediately started sparking and welding together. A little hot glue and the nickel tabs were the only thing holding the cells together, I threw the pack on the ground to break the two blocks apart. Now I have a bunch of cells with melted plastic coverings and burn marks all over. Several of the battery were very warm when I picked them up.

I haven't checked voltages yet. After I made sure to recover the all the cells that went flying and that they weren't going to continue shorting, I just had to walk away.

I guess I am wanting to ask what I can do to quality check these cells. This pack is going into a 1wheel so it is absolutely critical that I don't have any bad cells or the capacity hasn't been affected. All I can think is I'm out $250 right now.

So I have a room I want to get below the minimum set point on my AC. It has a mitsubishi "I-See sensor" in the room that I'd like to trick to think its 7-10 degrees warmer than it is, so the A/C continues to cool. Any ideas?

Good afternoon. I need to make a circuit that has 4 buttons and 4 LEDs, and that only the LED corresponding to the last button pressed lights up. Is there an integrated circuit that does this directly or some combination of circuits? greetings and thank you very much

Hello,

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I'm trying to make a map that has these through-hole 2812s poking through to mark certain important spots. Due to the distance of the map, neither a PCB nor a breadboard are feasible, so I've been just trying to use jumper wires and they're driving me insane and only the first LED is lighting up. I haven't a clue as to why since they were all working before and I've rechecked the wiring a million times but it's hard and messy, so I'm checking here if there is a way to still use these through hole LEDs as they're the best option aesthetically but to somehow improve the wiring like, massively.

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The biggest issue is that I have to solder a bunch of VDD and GND wires together before making the invididual connections. Thanks in advance

I had thought about using laptop cameras, but am not sure how to actually implement that. As in how i would actually use those to record something. I was wondering if someone had any experience with this?

Hi everyone, I am interested in developing a toy prototype that will invoke electric components and possibly WiFi, who can I hire to help assist with this?

I've got a couple of old iPhones and I want to reuse their batteries to power a super low power microcontroller. When I tried to solder wires onto the terminals, the tin kept balling up. Looks like the terminals are made of aluminum! Argh... Does anyone have a good method to securely attach them to wires? Thanks.

Hello there!

My electric piano has been building up dead keys for the last couple of weeks. After opening it up I think I found the root cause, one of the PCB’s has a slightly corroded connection. (I think, I don’t have a lot of experience with electronics except for some messing around with an Arduino).

Can anybody tell me whether this can be repaired and how?

I've tried many methods through apps like APowerMirror but most of the time they just give an option to mirror the phone on the PC and not vice versa. Otherwise the lag is so atrocious it's unusable.

I would need it to play videogames on a homemade mini arcade machine, and to avoid buying a shitty cheap raspberry pi mini screen the phone would be ideal, so the lag must be as minimal as possible, I'd like to know if it's doable, thanks in advance.

I've been trying to make a CNC writing machine but I never get the correct motion. I press the +X button and the motors just start vibrating and don't move. They sometimes move slowly and sometimes they freeze. Parts used NEMA 17 CNC shield v3 Arduino uno A4988 drivers SG90 servo I've seen many YouTube videos but no one seems to have any similar problem. For software im trying to use universal g code sender but it doesn’t work normally.

What might be the problem?

I've tried using some rechargeable lithium AA batteries in an automatic catflap. The cat flap seems to function as expected in one direction however on the side where the batteries are no longer seems to respond. I think it's the downward looking optical sensor but possibly also the sensor that picks up my cats chip. Switching back to alkaline and the flap operates as expected in both directions. Do you think the regulator built into the batteries would be able to cause this and could some amount of shielding fix this?

I need to make a box for my Jetson nano, I am planning to just glue a few pieces of plexiglass together because I can't find a box that would fit the mounting holes.

How do I affix the board to the bottom of the plexiglass? Some kind of screw I guess?