/r/diyelectronics
This subreddit is dedicated to both amateur and professional engineers that want to build cool stuff at home, challenge themselves to learn new technologies, learn from each others' designs, and showcase their side projects.
This subreddit is dedicated to both amateur and professional engineers that want to build cool stuff at home, challenge themselves to learn new technologies, learn from each others' designs, and showcase their side projects.
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Hi how are you i will this tp4056 j5019 to charge one lithium 18650 battery ….i bought this bms in the second photo to apply more a protection as I will use my project daily but I found I couldn’t use it with one battery as it is designed to balance between 3 batteries with their protection and uses it with one battery could cause problems in in the project so now i want to try my project with its normal connection without bms also I suspect this model of tp4056 has aprotection circuit which call DW0A or any other protection but I amnot sure so what do you think ?and I will use my project daily in my home so do you think is there any hazard that could cause dueto not using bms ? Or is it normal and this charging unit is reliable and no need to worry as it is normal to charge without bms ? I am worry as i will use my project daily in my home
I been desoldering lots of componentes from old boards, the thing is what can i do with this i have
Instead of having a cord for alligator, probe, etc I found this where it is basically modular and they just screw in I think k that's pretty cool.
Anyone know how to connect this motor to a plug for wall outlet
Anyone know how to connect this AC motor to plug. It is a synchronous AC motor from Crouzet (#80547020)
I'm looking for a way to make Sharpie marker turn on LED but only when it's used. For example, when writing things down - the LED at the top turns on.
It cannot be the mechanism with a button to turn on LED. For example, when I write lower case "i" it must light two times - when I draw a line, and when I draw a dot at the top.
Any recommendations on how to implement that? It sounds pretty straightforward, but when I'm thinking about it, it's not that obvious.
I did research and spoke to a friend who is optical engineer, he suggested I won't use sophisticated mechanisms. Probably it should be something mechanical? But how, what sensors do I use.
Maybe someone has ideas? Thanks!
Hi, I recently decided to try turning my old laptop's screen into a separate, plug-in monitor for my new laptop (and maybe my future PC too). I took it out of the frame but I don't know what number on it's back is the one dictating what control board to get. Could anyone help?
I got a bluetooth mouse on sale but I didn’t realize it was silent. I kind of hate it but I’m worried I’ll break it if I pry it open since it’s not supposed to pop off and there’s no screws. Any ideas on how I can get rid of whatever they soften it with or replace it without breaking it?
its from a car jump pack board thats not charging the pack but otherwise it works fine no markings on it as it clearly burnt
Hi all I've been researching creating a DIY Wind Turbine, I have a general idea of what I'm going to do, I am stuck on finding a generator to use for this, all I'm seeing is generators with high rpm and low voltage, the generators I do see that are low rpm and a decent voltage are all so tiny they won't produce any power. I would greatly appreciate some help with what motor to get, a link would be appreciated. Thank you all.
Just got into Arduino, and went a little over board on buying kits. What does this neat little future trash holder attach to?
Im thinking glue but what king of glue that's really going to hold regardless of the weather. Hot glue?
Anyone know what this white connector is? And what the red block that connects to it with punch downs is? I can't seem to find the exact one. Thanks!
Hi,
Did any of you managed how to calibrate multimeter in the ZOYI ZT-703S? Mine at current measurement shows 0,928A for 1A current, which is more than 7% of error... It should be less than 0,5% by the manual. I cannot see any potentiometers inside, so calibration must have been included in software.
The output pins are on the left side in the middle (nothing on the back side). I know how to test the outputs but need help knowing where to put the input voltage. Thanks
Top pic is the thermal switch I'm lookat at, bottom is the thermostat switch and relay in the fridge. Or is there a better and safer way to make the fridge come on to cool when it is warmer?
Hi dear members.I have microsoft studio 2 plus mainboard and psu.I want to use board as a mini pc.But i cant power on.Because studio 2 plus power button inside the display chassis.Only 3 sockets goin to display.I want to know which soket have power on pins.
I have an e-bike li-on battery of 36v, 15ah. The battery charger has an output of 42vdc and 2amps. I believe the amperage is correct as it should be at 10% of AH. But does the voltage need to match?
So, somebody here has ever made or used something that can be used to measure dynamics torque??
I was asked to make a torque meter for testing a Vertical Axis WindMill that it's being build in my Uni, and honestly I don't have a clear Idea of how to make one...
Send help :(
I am completely new to anything related to electronics and I recently decided to build a button box interface for a computer simulator/game I play in order to add further immersion to the experience. And even though I have zero technical ability in this field, I am a problem solver who is capable and driven.
I asked ChatGPT how it would start development on such a project, and this is what it spit out at me. I'm sure it's more funny than serious to any of you real engineers on here to see a newbie asking ChatGPT how he should begin. But I genuinely need somewhere to start. I am a roadmap kinda guy so this to me is great!
My question is; would any of you be willing to seriously edit what ChatGPT gave me so I can properly set my course as I move through this learning process? I would most humbly and gratefully take your responses and put them to the best of use!
Thank you in advance for helping out a new enthusiast!
https://chatgpt.com/share/670de622-08d4-8009-a55d-5e8ede623bc4
Buying replacement caps and i have a smd tantalum 10uf 10v i believe its a 1206 size / 3206 but cant figure out what is mfr case code is when searching on mouser. any help how do i read this cap btw its tiny this beat pic i could get
Hi, do you any website besides Amazon or AliExpress where i could find some pc modding related components? On specific i need white 3 pin socket connector for a rgb diy project but i can't find them, only in black. Also i need flat white wires, on aliexpress seems only like 1 vendor have those, i can't believe there aren't any other sources for this things. Please help me.
I have an older PlayStation 2 that I just acquired and am currently attempting to learn how to repair it. Right now, it turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns back off. What are some things to consider looking at to diagnose the problem?
I don't see what I want on the market, which is to have full length in my 2x4 tent, over 300 watts in that form factor, and extensible. I've basically decided on going with Kingbrite 5x 1100mm lm301h EVOs with Osrams (140w), and need help on a) deciding MeanWell vs Inventronics driver, and b) wattage of driver. I know I could underdrive them with a 680w driver, but wondering if there was a way to even better idiot proof the system while using a 1000w driver. Of course it would be going through a dimmer, and I would be the only one touching, but just wondering if there was a way to limit to add that extra safety measure. I would want the 1000w driver solely for the sake of expansion down the road. Thanks
Hey everyone! I'm looking to try to make an interferometer between two coils, and right now I'm trying to tackle the problem of how to ensure the two oscillators initially match their frequencies. Especially since I want to have an Arduino or Pi do the trimming, which would make mechanically-variable capacitors tough.
It looks like there are varactors, capacitors I can vary the voltage of by applying a DC bias. My first instinct is that I can put one in parallel with my main tank and trim the capacitance that way. However, it looks like their range is really dwarfed by my tank capacitors, and it's hard to get them unless I'm looking to buy a thousand of them.
Also, I'm having trouble intuiting how I could vary the voltage to trim my capacitance; more DC bias is more capacitance, right?
Am I barking up the wrong tree with these varactors? Are there other tools I could use to trim the circuit?
Hi there, I am fairly new to electronics but not a noob at coding. I recently decided to to try my hand at using and LCD display (16 by 2). I wanted to basically just display the temp + humidity from my DHT20 sensor using my Arduino Nano Every through I2C.
Where I seem to be having a problem is if I display just text that I hard code (write it into the code) it displays on the screen no issues. If I then get the data from the sensor the backlight switches off and the serial monitor in the Arduino IDE doesn't update with the values from the sensor. (Code Snippet Below):
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print("Temp: ");
lcd.print(temp.temperature);
lcd.print(" C ");
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
lcd.print("Hum: ");
lcd.print(humidity.relative_humidity);
lcd.print(" % ");
delay(500);
If I comment out sections(see below) I can get the display and the serial monitor to function again, in the below code snippet I comment out the majority of the code after I fetch the sensor value for temperature and all works. If I hover try and show the "C" to denote Celsius on the display the program stops again, the LCD backlight switches off and the serial monitor stops.
So this works:
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print("Temp: ");
lcd.print(temp.temperature);
//lcd.print(" C ");
//lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
//lcd.print("Hum: ");
//lcd.print(humidity.relative_humidity);
//lcd.print(" % ");
delay(500);
and this...
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print("Temp: ");
//lcd.print(temp.temperature);
//lcd.print(" C ");
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
lcd.print("Hum: ");
//lcd.print(humidity.relative_humidity);
//lcd.print(" % ");
This Doesn't:
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print("Temp: ");
lcd.print(temp.temperature);
lcd.print(" C ");
//lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
//lcd.print("Hum: ");
//lcd.print(humidity.relative_humidity);
//lcd.print(" % ");
delay(500);
Basically any combination of anything else I try (commenting out other lines of code) stops the program outputting on the serial monitor and then doesn't display on the LCD.
Please can some one explain to me what I am doing wrong? I am just so confused as to what it may be an I feel like it is probably something really stupid that I have missed.
Full sketch:
#include <Adafruit_AHTX0.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>
Adafruit_AHTX0 aht;
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,16,2); // set the LCD address to 0x27 for a 16 chars and 2 line display
void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
if (! aht.begin()) {
Serial.println("Could not find AHT? Check wiring");
while (1) delay(10);
}
Serial.println("AHT10 or AHT20 found");
//initialize lcd screen
lcd.init();
lcd.backlight();
}
void loop() {
sensors_event_t humidity, temp;
aht.getEvent(&humidity, &temp);// populate temp and humidity objects with fresh data
Serial.print("Temperature: "); Serial.print(temp.temperature); Serial.println(" degrees C");
Serial.print("Humidity: "); Serial.print(humidity.relative_humidity); Serial.println("% rH");
//Display temperature and humidity on LCD
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print("Temp: ");
// lcd.print(temp.temperature);
// lcd.print(" C ");
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
lcd.print("Hum: ");
// lcd.print(humidity.relative_humidity);
// lcd.print(" % ");
delay(500);
}
I have this small novelty disco ball that spins on a platform equipped with some LED lights and runs on three AA batteries. The only problem is that it spins too fast, even with this system of wheels and belts inside slowing it down. Anyone have an idea on how to do a mod to fix this?