I stay in India. I want to create an automatic cradle swing for my baby. I'm not good at electronics. Could someone help me selecting the parts needed for it?

The cradle moves horizontally (not in an arc) as it has 4 joints to it. Two on each side. Attached are the pictures of it.

I'm thinking fixing the motor to the center of the bottom horizontal rod and making connections to the joints.

Any thoughts on how I could achieve this?

I do not know which motor suits the purpose and how to convert rotation of the motor to horizontal movement.

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I know it should connect somewhere in the switch since it came from the 220 main line . But I don't see any visible circuit that is loose . Where should I connect it? Is it a ground wire?

Dryer photo

Hiya, So my electrical knowledge isn't the best. I'm good at soldering and repairing things but I'm not very good at the technical side.

So I'm wanting to control a solenoid lock remotly for a project i'm working on, I need to be able to hold the arm of a mouse trap in place under tention and then release it and I was wondering if this could run from a 9v battery:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DieseRC-Wireless-Transmitters-Potential-free-Controller/dp/B0B19N81RD

And would it be able to power this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/QWORK-Electric-Solenoid-Assembly-Electirc/dp/B093H6GD4V

Aloha!

Trying to control a motor with variable output from a variable voltage input. Do not want a mechanical potentiometer that I have to turn a knob to turn up the speed of the motor, would like it to vary with whatever the voltage input is. Anyone have a part in mind?

Hi!

I am building an act curtain (think a curtain you see before a performance that drops at the start), and I want to rig it so I can drop the curtain with the hit of a remote.

I imagine two clamps or hooks or something - on at each side where the curtain connects to the pole. Then hit the switch and they open, dropping the curtain

I don’t quite have the skill set for this, so I’m hoping there’s some kind of a solution I can hobble together. I couldn’t find anything online that unhooks or releases by remote. But my search parameters could also suck

Thank you!

I'd like to start testing and building stuff at home, so one of the basics is of course a bench DC power supply.

For now, I want to do projects related to vehicle electrical systems. That means operating mostly in the 0 to 15V range, anywhere from a few milliamps to say 30A of current.

I've been shopping, and it looks like the price goes way up from 30A to 50A max output. Which is fine, I wouldn't have a call for 30-50A very often if at all.

To be clear, I need a power supply adjustable for both voltage and current output. I'd likely operate it at 14V most of the time, to simulate a motorcycle power system for example, but I'd want to put out varying amounts of current.

(Yes, I know you can't "push" current. But an automotive fuse for example is basically a short, so it'll draw as much current as the power supply allows, until POOF no more fuse.)

FWIW, I looked for a FAQ or equipment shopping guide or weekly questions thread associated with this subreddit, but didn't find one. Mine seems like a common-ish question for electronics DIYers, so maybe there should be one of those.

My video capture card heats up so much and so quickly. Tried removing the cover but it didn't work, it still heats up like before. Would these aluminium heatsinks be any help to the problem?

Hello community!

I am a genuine beginner in electronics, but curious and eager to learn. I need your help with my little DIY project. Thank you in advance for paying attention to my project and sharing with me!

AM/FM + MP3 Radio Project:

• I would like to add an MP3 player module with mini SD card to this radio. (View the photo)
• The MP3 module will use the radio's 9V battery as well as its volume/switch.

Questions :

1. I need to know where and how I should connect (solder) the modules on the radio's electronic board? Can you identify it in the photo or draw a diagram?
2. Do I need to add any parts, like resistors or capacitors?
3. Optional: Is it possible to cut off the AM frequency broadcast and only hear the MP3 player on the speaker? Otherwise, I know the sound from my mp3 player will be mixed with the AM radio frequency, but I will be able to find a quiet frequency.

I will be waiting for your instructions or questions, thank you very much!

**Material (see photos):**

Radio:
General Electric Integrated Circuit AM FM Radio 7-2582-A (80s) 9 V

MP3 player module with SD card:
GPD2846A, Integrated power amplifier 3 W @ 5 V (3.7 V to 5 V) for 4 Ohm speaker. Autoplay, control buttons.

Module to step down the voltage:
Built-in MP1495 chip. Support DC 5-16V input and 1.25V/1.5V/1.8V/2.5V/3.3V/5V fixed voltage output. Max 3A

https://preview.redd.it/er11jw1b2ked1.jpg?width=2224&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b1336540e327ec0e66fa35f8eddcf02a90653f4

I harvested this LCD panel from an old laptop and wanted to build an external monitor with it. I looked up boards to make it work and they all come with USB A in, hdmi in and DC power supply in ports. Now for my question: is it possible to make the screen use USB C for power + video signal? Or even just for power with some kind of adapter? Because I wanted to use it with my laptop/phone/tablet and would prefer only bringing a single power brick (like a multi port 140w gan charger I already use for those devices).

For a while, I've been thinking of using BLE to make my old car's doors unlock when I get close by similar to how my newer car does. Within the last month Arduino featured a reddit post on their blog where someone did it by hard-wiring into the electrical system and using that to lock and unlock the car.

If I wanted a less intrusive way to do this, is there some accessory that would connect with an Adafruit or Arduino board that would emit the unlock signal to the car when the Adafruit or Arduino board sensed that I was close enough?

I know there are devices out there in the black market that are used to capture a signal and replay it to steal cars - I guess, what I'm asking is if there's a way to do that for my white-hat purposes of opening my own car? The car's from 2005, so I imagine it's got less robust encryption (if there even is encryption) on the signal than a newer car.

Thoughts?

Was cleaning dust and noticed the plastic piece is moving ( the area on the motherboard is labelled N-Channel FETs)

I have a MIDI keyboard that supports half pedaling sustain pedal (velocity sensitive), but i dont have enough money to buy one, so i want to make it myself. Does anyone know, how does it work? Maybe i can do something with slide potentiometers?

I'm looking to add either or but preferably both, Bluetooth and Aux cable through the Jukebox.

https://preview.redd.it/cmaoyowywied1.jpg?width=2992&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=756a8fccc6a0c765b9ce05c5dc9b9bb481a749b7

Hi everyone,

I'm working on an exciting DIY project and would love to get your input and advice. Here's the gist:

I have a home intercom system that displays a live video feed from an outdoor camera when someone rings the doorbell. The intercom system uses a coaxial cable to transmit the video signal. My goal is to add a module or microcontroller to read the video display buffer and share it over Wi-Fi without disrupting the existing intercom functionality.

• Intercom System: Displays live video when the doorbell rings.
• Video Signal: Transmitted via coaxial cable.
• Microcontroller: ESP32-S3 with built-in ADC (12-bit resolution).

What I've Done So Far:

1. Duplicated the Video Signal: Used a video signal splitter to send the video signal to both the intercom and the ESP32-S3.
2. Digitized the Video Signal: Connected the video signal to the ADC pin of the ESP32-S3.
3. Basic Streaming Setup: Set up a basic web server on the ESP32-S3 to stream the digitized video data.

Additional Information:

• The ADC on the ESP32-S3 is set to 12-bit resolution, giving a range of 0-4095 for the digitized video signal.
• I'm considering using HTTP to stream the video data, but I'm open to more efficient protocols.

Any advice, suggestions, or resources you could share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

I have to turn my homie's vape into something because if his mum finds it she will kill him. The problem is I thought of putting the components in a toothpaste tube but it didn't work. I also tried putting the heater, ejuice, battery, and the thing you suck inside a cola can it worked but it's not practical so PLEASE GIVE IDEAS WHERE TO PUT THE COMPONENTS OF A 68×46×27mm× VAPE E.G. COSMETIC BOTTLES AND SO ON.

Does anyone know what this 10-pin connecter is called? I’m looking for a 1 male to female y-splitter and for a male header to connect to a pcb board to power my project. The wire is from my car and connects to bezel to control the volume and ac and sports mode.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this? Glue? Needle and thread? Other? Old pair of Sony WH something

Hello, I have salvaged the display from an old Dell Lattitude 3310 2in1 and would like to user it as an external monitor for my new laptop, it is touchscreen capable and I would like to retain this functionality, I believe it is a 40pin eDP connection, I am very new to electronics modding and so if anyone could link me to a driver board that would be lovely, attached is the connector.

I am in the UK so if it could ship here that would be great, thanks.

https://preview.redd.it/ahkwu0fjrced1.jpg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b32abe2674a5ffa4ec467015ac312efe2472a02f

Ok hi so I'm trying to make this spinning ferris wheel using Antrader DC Motor Mini 5V 6000RPM Electric Motor with Wire, copper conductive foil and CR1632 Lithium Coin Cell Battery. But the do motor is not activating. What am I doing wrong? Here are some reference pictures.

Idk If i’m posting in the right community this is my first time so sorry in advance 😅

Hello, so I want to control some servos with a small remote that I'm going to design and 3d print. It seems like NRF24L01 boards are a good way to go so I ordered some of those, now I'm on the matter of powering the controller.

Since the NRF24L01 board requires 3.3v and most Arduinos require 5+ volts I figured the best solution would be to get a Arduino board with a 3v output and only worry about powering that. I'm planning on getting an ESP32 Nano board (is this overkill for my use case?)

For powering the Arduino I found these rechargeable 7.4v batteries that come with a specific usb charger. Hopefully that'll keep me from burning down my house. But I'm just wondering if powering everything this way will be effective/safe.

I'd assume with the batteries the red wire goes to VIN, black wire to GND and the blue and white wires are purely for charging purposes?

Hello I have old phones that arent working and some are. And i want to tinker with them or repurpose them. I need idea on what to do it and what tools do i need to tinker

Thanks

Capabilities around 36V@50A with CC CV capabilities, so I'm thinking an XT60.

I'm working on a project and I need to multiplex some 7 segment displays. I was planning on just chaining some 74hc595 shift registers so I don't use all the IO on my MCU, but then I found some constant current LED drivers that have the same working principle as a shift register but have the added current regulation functionality. One that looked good was the CAV4016HV6-T2 on Digikey, but the problem with these is they are all SMDs and I want through-holes. I want to guarantee that each segment on the display will receive a constant, regulated current. Can I just do this by putting a resistor (of the appropriate value for the forward current and forward voltage) before each of the segments? Is it still possible that this would cause some segments to draw more current than others and therefore have an uneven brightness? I'm fairly sure this will work, especially considering each segment is the same LED and should have approximately the same load resistance.

I have a project in the works right now, where the physical aspects all work, and each component individually does it’s job, but I have no idea how to connect them all to work in unison as they each have a different voltage/current requirement.

Here are my components:

1- Stepper Motor + TB6600 driver (24V)

2- Solenoid (12V)

3- DC motor (6-12V)

4- Liquid Pump (12V)

5- Numerous Arduino Nanos (as required)

My power supply can supply 0-30V, and 0-10A.

Firstly, is it possible to power all of these from the same power supply (while controlled by Arduinos)? And if so, what is the best/cheapest way to do it? Please point me towards any resources to read/watch.