Hello, firstly I hope I'm okay asking this question here, if not I do apologise. I've slowly been building upon my headless M8 tracker project. I'm at the stage where I would like to add a MIDI interface, but I'm struggling to find a good selection of devices to choose from. I live in the UK.

I've found two devices so far, but I can't find much information about the amount of GPIO pins they use.

The first I found was from Pisound, but I thought it was quite pricey and I already have a DAC hooked up to the Rpi Zero, so the sound card functionality is a little obsolete: https://blokas.io/pisound/

The other device I found was from Domoshop.eu. I'm not a huge fan of TRS MIDI interfaces, but I'm willing to make concessions if there's limited choice out there. However, I have tried to reach out to them asking how many GPIO pins are used up by the device, but I'm yet to receive a reply: https://domoshop.eu/blogs/news/raspberry-pi-midi-interfaces

Anyway, if any of you know of any more options out there, please feel free to share. I would greatly appreciate it.

I've wired it to what the datasheet says and I'm only getting a flat -10V out of the triangle and sawtooth outputs and flat -5V from the square output. I wanted to try and tune this before putting together the rest, but this just doesn't want to work. Anybody see what I'm doing wrong?

el print - all analog / all acrylic paint on A3 paper

MMaking-of to see how it's done

Hi hi, finally got to the stage where I can design my circuit diagram. My first ever schematic diagram and also not an engineer so please go easy on me :/

I think in terms of connecting point to point wiring, it should be correct since I am basing it off the Coolaudio V1000 datasheet schematic example, but what is worrying me right now is the stunning lack of components like resistors and capacitors between components.

Here is the link to the shared diagram. Circuit-diagrams dot org as I find it the most idiot-proof to use:
https://crcit.net/c/b4dea8293c884fa6bd0ab47fd72ada0c

Would like some feedback: -

• Does the circuitry make sense? Are there any components that you would add to e.g. clean up sound, slight low pass, etc
• How can I improve on drawing circuit diagrams in the future?

https://preview.redd.it/24e11thp87vc1.png?width=1580&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c91da85f0a6d93083edf66b567a9603cf092ef3

Having a hard time finding an answer to my question through google. I added this simple glide circuit to my sequencer. (I did get it to work) Since I didn't have the exact same values for the Pot and Cap shown in the schematic I was playing around with using different values. It seems like the Larger the Max Resistance on the Pot is the smaller the Cap needs to be to give a good range from no glide to a lot of glide.

Is there a difference between using a large Pot with a small cap versus a small pot with a large cap? If so what is it?

Bonus question: Why use a log pot vs linear?

https://ua726.co.uk/2011/05/22/really-simple-portamentoslide-circuit/

Hello all!

Some of you probably saw my previous post about the Kassutronics Reverse Avalanche VCO (Link to schematic and page), and my struggles to get it oscillating, and today I went through and swapped the 2n3904 transistor that makes the oscillator tick 7 or 8 times to see if it was maybe just some strange characteristics of the transistor and IT OSCILLATES NOW!! :)))

The working circuit was my third attempt at the stripboard layout but, as the title says, I cannot get it to change it's pitch. Both turning of the pitch-adjust potentiometer, and giving it different control-voltages are not actually changing the waveform/the pitch in any way!

Even looking at it with an oscilloscope shows no change in the waveform at all

I have tested all of my potentiometers and they are known working.

Below I have attached a picture of the underside of my stripboard layout,

There is a ripped-off trace on my stripboard in the far left, but the potentiometer is soldered on farther forward negating that problem. Also, in the middle, you can see that i ran out of trimmers and instead I soldered on a potentiometer for testing

As always, any help is appreciated :)

Underside

Underside Close Up

Front

Front

My physics teacher asked us to make a musical instrument, so I wanted to create something like a synthesizer. While researching on YouTube, I found Moritz Klein's DIY oscillator video, but I don't have a Korg SQ1. That's why I (a complete beginner) wanted to know if I can connect a MIDI to this oscillator.

My idea is to use a MIDI controller made with Arduino, like the DIY MIDI from LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER.

Hi, I'm studying electronics engineering (just getting started) and there's an electronics subject in which we were tasked to prepare a final project for the end of the semester (in June-july, for me).

The project on obviously has to be linked to electronics, and as I'd been interested in synths for a while I thought that this was a great opportunity to build one myself!

The issue is, I have very little knowledge. I own a raspberry pi pico and a breadboard and have heard that you need a 555 timer chip for the oscillators but don't know where to start.

I was looking to build something quite simple, with the only requirement being that it can be played and for it to have some basic controls (cutoff, adsr, ...). I think that the square wave is the easiest to build but I'm not sure.

I'd appreciate any tips on how to build something like this or a guide which explains it!

thank you!

(btw I'm in south america so maybe some of the more advanced components are not readily available)

The schematic above is the driver of my VCO. IABC controlls the frequency and is linear, doubling IABC doubles the frequency.

Which Resistors should I tweak so that IABC doubles when VC increases by 1 Volt?

Hey everybody!

I just finished my first Mod FX for the NTS-1! It's a stutter effect that gets a short audio sample and repeats a number of times.

I only have the NTS-1, and it is working as intended for me, but I would appreciate help determining if it works for the other synths and also feedback on the effect itself!!

I plan on providing the effect and source code for free once I can confirm cross functionality and if anyone even likes it, lol.

Precompiled file here: https://mkoussa.github.io/nts-1/

Thank you!!!

Hi, I'm looking to build or get build a diy controller with 16 rotary knobs that can easily be assigned to vst synts and also be able to be midi mappable within Ableton Live. The style or look I would like to achieve is similar to the Midi Fighter Twister / Intech Studio PO16. Are there any blueprints I can buy that doesn't cost an arm or a leg? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What’s the best website for rack parts? I’m trying to build my own rack and I can’t find a good website for parts to actually build the rack itself. Im looking for 126HP 3U specifically

i have a short question because i am about to order some parts and i am unsure.

are those the right kind of foil capacitors for eurorack modules?

https://www.reichelt.at/at/de/fkp2-pp-puls-kondensator-1-nf-2-5-63-vdc-rm-5-fkp2-63-1-0n-p172404.html?&nbc=1

​

Hello. Does anyone have a link or able to share EasyEDA files for a simple eurorack module build? Anything, a VCO, a filter, anything.

Here is a little personal background. I'm a musician that likes to build things. I'm trying to get into learning EasyEDA and building eurorack synth stuff. I've debated which program to learn but I need to just pick one at this point and this one is free and seems to be convenient how it works with JLCPCB. I have a bit of background in making guitar pedals but not synth. I want to shift to making eurorack synth stuff and then designing my own stuff eventually.

Knowing myself and the way I learn it would help me immensely to have an EasyEDA file for at least one basic build. It will help me get all the basics right, layers and such. Then I'll place the order and see what I get, build it, tinker with it, and learn from there.

I'm building this:

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5912db7ee6f2e1435dbab4fd/1577787654785-N937289LOFJFTF5LL4S5/modular+mixer+stripboard+layout?format=1500w

But I'm an idiot/coming from a diy guitar pedal background and I just assumed I'd ne able to power it with one of these: https://lovemyswitches.com/switched-2-1mm-dc-power-jack-red/

But now that I've got everything connected, it's become clear that that dc jack wont work. But in looking, all i keep finding are like €200 Eurorack power supplies.

I'm building this in a little tea tin. It was supposed to be a cute simple project! Plus I am doing everything I can not to get sucked into eurorack, it seems like exactly the kind of time and money pit that I personally would fall very hard into, never do anything cool with and then regret forever. Is there something I'm missing? Is there a simple socket that can power this? Thank you as always r/synthdiy!

Hi,
I just released a new DIY Eurorack Module:
https://github.com/Cs4System/Eurorack/tree/main/Betula
It's an ADAT Audio Interface with 8 channels In and 8 channels Out!
I would love to hear your feedback!
For more information, see:
https://www.modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=283803
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https://preview.redd.it/u1y68xz6auuc1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12651a1f3beefcab21cefb8eed01db748d7c51ee

I have built a set of synths and am getting some buzzing and crackling sounds when I run a vco through a mixer I built. I have checked all of the solder joints for fault and am left wondering if there are some obvious faults that occur often?

I am looking to prototype a synth I have in mind, how do I source a velocity sensitive keyboard for it? I see Fatar is one manufacturer, but I’d like an inexpensive one to start out, test my key scanning methods, etc. I don’t even know what to Google because “keyboard” is obv useless. I don’t want to rip a midi controller apart because I’d like to be able to make several, or potentially stick with the keyboard I chose, and would just like to research what’s out there generally.

Im looking for a good tabletop power supply and was thinking about grabbing a Rigol dp932 but I have a couple questions I was hoping could be answered here before I pull the trigger.

1. As far as I can tell the only difference between the DP932E & DP932U is the U has 64 volts & 210 Watts where the E has 60 Volts & 198 Watts. Is this the only difference and is this worth the extra $75?
2. Can these be "unlocked" to support the higher resolution and other features that are locked in the software?
3. Are these good power supplies?
4. Are there any other power supplies I should look into?

Thanks!