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I wasn't able to respond with Images to the "Teak Table heavily weathered" post and thought that some of you might like to see what ours looks like after being outside for almost 25 years. We only clean it with soap if something gets spilled on it and scrape off the lichen in damp years

What would the best finish for a sapele shower bench? Was thinking Rubio with ceramic finish, maybe total bit epoxy? I’d kinda like to steer away from an epoxy if possible but I’ll go that way if I need to.

In the situations when you don't use a finish for a few months and the finish hardens at the surface. Are you able to mix that hardened wax back into the mixture, is it even worth it?

I'm assuming that removing enough of the wax will dilute the finish over time, and make it less effective.

I am refinishing my dining room table and on some of the chair seats these spots showed up after one coat of staining.

From a process standpoint, I stripped with orange strip, removed residue with mineral spirits, sanded, and cleaned with mineral spirits and a tack cloth prior to staining. There was no residue or anything of notice on the wood prior to staining. Any ideas on how to fix it? I appreciate everyone’s help.

Our house was built in the 1980s and I am pretty sure the kitchen cabinets are original. There's nothing special about them, but they are solid and in good shape. They are a nice dark wood stain, and I really like the color, but they are so grimy and sticky. I was hoping to maybe just be able to clean and reseal them, but when I started cleaning it was apparent that I would need to refinish them completely. I know what I want to do on the doors and trim, but the end panels and the insides of the cabinets are that awful fake wood grain particle board. There are two end panels to deal with. The insides of the cabinets may just need to stay what they are (unless someone has a suggestion) but I am wondering what to do about the end panels. Should I just paint these, or put some wall paper on them like a friend suggested (make them contrast instead of matching)?

What type of wood is this?

I’m working on taking off a green stain and refinishing this table but it has a lot of details and layers to the design. Is there a sander attachment that can help me get in there or is this a hand sanding job?

I’ve used gel stripper and one that is mineral spirits. This spot has been harder than others to get clean and I’m running out of ideas. I’ve used my sander as well but it’s challenging with that as well.

This is a pretty specific question, but if anyone has thoughts I’d love to hear them.

I’m having trouble finding a neutral brown in the General Finishes gel stain line. The sample chips in the store have not matched what my tests have looked like at all.

I’ve tried Nutmeg (too dark/cool toned) and American Oak (slightly too orangey) and don’t want to keep buying $30 cans to find the right color. Mixing is not an ideal option here.

I know the finished color will vary depending on the wood (I’m using maple), but it would be really helpful to hear if anyone has found a color that has resulted in a more neutral tone.

Got this dining room table the other day, it’s from the 1950’s and my plan was to sand down and restore the wood underneath. A friend expressed that if it’s painted it’s likely lead paint due to age but after looking closer is looks like a panel? Not sure how to identify the materials or if it even is paint but any advice would be appreciated.

I'm a bit confused. So, this was my first time doing any wood painting at all. I got myself a dark stainer and applied a few layers on a scrap wood I found (and properly sanded). Layers were spaced out by 24hrs each and the guy at the store said it really shouldn't become sticky at all, but online I've found that when you have an excess on the wood you should remove it with a rag like about a minute after applying the stainer.

I'm just confused as to why my wood feels sticky now and don't know how to fix it (or avoid it next time). Should I try to sand it slightly and see how it goes?

I've tried washing it with a dish sponge and a bit of water (I think the stainer is water based) but it's still sticky. It may have improved a tiny bit, though.

Also, I was going to apply my flatting now, but the store guy said it just wouldn't work if the wood is now sticky. Is it true? What do I do then?

Hello, I’m currently working on a butcher block desk. I’m applying a water based polyurethane and it looks like this. This is only the second coat. Unsure if I’m doing something wrong or if it just takes more coats to start looking better. It just seems really streaky.

Is it possible to spray a vinyl sanding sealer on top of an existing catalyzed finish? Will it adhere/hold? Trying to get away from a strip and refinish since the color is good.

We have made an ash table for wedding attendees to sign. I was advised to use a lacquer-based sanding sealer as my first coat, have the guests sign with acrylic pens, then spray on lacquer for final coats. Does that seem like a good approach?

I was hoping to get some advise. My wife spilt a diffuser on out side board which she then immediately tried to clean up. It seems to have either stained or stripped the colour off the top but only in the woods grain

what could I use to repair this? I think I just need to re stain in the grain its mango wood