Is the "robocop" finish on metal possible irl?

His body metal is obviously painted in the movies, so I'm wondering if there is any way to get that slight purplish finish on ti or steel without the intense rainbow" effect or paint. Not like that ridiculous finish you see on gas station knives and such, but like the image provided. Annodizing or heat treating perhaps? Wasn't lettingme post this so I had to edit this.

https://townsquare.media/site/442/files/2020/09/robocop.jpg

Newbie/non-welder here.

I would like to figure out how to weld two different size stainless steel wire (.9mm and 1.6mm) together.

I am looking to do similar to what Robin Wight is doing at about the 40 second mark on this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M05OicqsKM&list=PLziuS8DWCpjU7QFuM6wRH5C1R37aqb6OC&index=5

In the video Robin says he modified a capacitive discharge welder originally used for making thermocouples, but i have no idea how to build something like that. Hoping there's someone on here that could point me in the right direction for something similar or what to buy to build this welder setup that he has.

im doing a press lever to extrude food trhought a nozzle. but i cant make a perpendicular motion, the lever goes onward but not strigh.

these are the parts

https://preview.redd.it/0xumqp9iya4e1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33d228f4d7525ddbb672939678efe25583e5ee92

this is how they work for now in several configurations

https://reddit.com/link/1h4dq1h/video/3puu42zqya4e1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1h4dq1h/video/q763c2zqya4e1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1h4dq1h/video/yv0y43zqya4e1/player

i want this motion

https://preview.redd.it/w64knga5za4e1.png?width=1162&format=png&auto=webp&s=0bc005eb7f3ebcc6578bf8f2955f9899c5e729fe

i left this template to share ideas

https://preview.redd.it/t60o0l3bza4e1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2b5d41c0203abc750af9f6e9a2a41fbdaac55ed

So I know I can etch by just holding the cotton, Paul we're felt in the alligator clips. What is advantage to having electrode (brass,graphite,etc)? The only thing I can think is to help with the longevity of the alligator clips. Not sure if the extra step are worth it for minimal etching.

I degreased, polished as best I could. Degreased & then bathed in Acetone. I had previously tried to bake it in an oven at over 500* but let it cool & then blowtorched. Assume I shouldn’t have baked in the oven? Looks a bit of a mess. Anything I can do to salvage it other than paint?

Hi, i left my coffee grinder fall and the cup doesnt fit anymore. I dont want to scratch the outside. How do I bend it back to a circle shape? I have a knipex parallel plier, a lot of bike tools, some classic pliers, some screws extractor bits and a nice coffee machine.

Help please

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Hi Everyone, I am just posting this to ask for advice on what to use on this table.

My grandparents have been restoring this beautiful cooper table and they are looking for a sealant to put over the table. we were looking to use everbrite or johnsons miniwax but we are skeptical as they are either extremely expensive or hard to get in australia. if someone would be able to share any thoughts on what to seal this beautiful table with I would appreciate it.

Hi, gang!

I'm trying to figure out the best way to paint my aluminum surface in the salt air environment.

Initially I used this method:

1. Alumiprep 33

2. Alodine (Bonderite 1201)

3. Wash primer

However, I noticed that after some time the wash primer layer began flaking off.  

So I'm thinking about using alternate way to prime:

1. 99% Alcohol cleaning

2. a coat of Self-etching primer

3. a coat of Sherwin Williams High Solids Corrosion Resistant Epoxy Primer CM0483928.

Can anyone point me the right way? This seems like an easy topic, but the more I research, the more I'm confused about this topic.

Hey all, am a design student with a brief to design and manufacture an adjustable floor lamp, one possible design I have so far is this bent steel tube frame with a sort of kick bent into the base to allow the whole lamp to "rock" back and forth towards you.

However one area that I'm unsure about is whether there'll be too much flex in the base and whether there is anything I can do to reduce or stiffen the frame?

https://preview.redd.it/n02jhp7p034e1.jpg?width=7680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4eaba8cf32620bf0ff1596f35818e7f6b14400f3

https://preview.redd.it/6h8oxs7p034e1.jpg?width=7680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36e541f4dccb47d1b56ca464465d6cce5dceee8d

Hey all, I’m a hobby project welder and almost everything I’ve made has either been outdoor art which I wanted to rust, or indoor railings which were finished with a surface coating after fabrication. I am about to make a gate though that will live with full element exposure in Seattle, lots of moisture and rain. It will have weathering steel panels for the cosmetic look on the outer surface, but my question is what will the lifespan of 2x2 square tube and other structural components be if left uncoated to patina/rust with the weathering steel? I’m thinking the sidewall of the tube will be .188, and the only stuff I can find with all the variety of shapes I need is standard hot rolled mild steel. If it lasts 10 yrs uncoated before issues arise that is long enough, but if it’ll be falling apart in 5 years or less that won’t fly. I’d rather not work with galvanized for both the health factor and visual appearance where those parts show. I also have considered coating the structural components with a rust inhibitor (oils/rattle can products/etc) before doing the final spot welds to attach panels. Or any other ideas I’m not thinking of?

So I have an enclosure which is basically a box and have another piece that bolts onto it. It's 3D printed, but now I'm considering designing a sheet / metal plate version of it using maybe something like 3/16"

I'm pretty new to metal work, but I was thinking of using tabbed slots to build the enclosure. But problem is I don't have a welder. Is it possible to maybe just epoxy the thing together or some other form of method that would allow me to construct the enclosure requiring welding as I live in a small apartment with very limited space for tools

I'd like a small pry bar / drift punch but the typical small 'edc' ones are ludicrously expensive and have like weird greebling and bottle openers and pocket clips and other 'tacticool' stuff built in. In contrast, a 1/4" Tekton 66001 cold chisel is $4 and dead simple.

The Tekton site says:

Each chisel is individually heat treated to harden and strengthen the tip while maintaining the soft temper of the striking end. The chisel blades are rough sharpened before heat treatment and then re-sharpened to a precise edge after heat treatment.

Can I somehow soften ("temper"? "anneal"?) the Tekton chisel to make it safe for use as a pry bar? I would not want it to shatter during use and cause injury.

If yes, what is the most accessible method? I have the following possibly relevant heating tools at my disposal:

• a kitchen oven
• a toaster oven
• a butane torch
• a corded 2000W heat gun that boasts temperature control from 122-1202 degrees Farenheit.

I also have pliers, files, a hmmer, a bench vise and "fiber face jaw caps" for the vise which I believe are supposed to be thermally insulating.

If I wanted to adjust the shape of the taper on the business end, I assume it would be better to do that once it has been softened?

I’m getting the hang of CNCing metal now. I use mostly copper and aluminum. I’d like to make my own pickup covers. How would I go about doing something like this?