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I need to fill a hole that was drilled and tapped in the wrong spot. This is a rifle receiver (heat treated) and I’m not sure what the best way to fill this so it can be drilled and tapped in the correct location. It’s a 4.2mm hole drilled 9mm deep

Just fill it with weld?

Plug and weld?

Other approach?

Seeking to patinize a bronze plaque with wording. It is 40" x30" and vertical. Need to apply patina in paste form to avoid runs that occur with brushed on patina. Meant Patina recipe not Receipt

Thank you

Douglas

Seeking to patinize a bronze plaque with wording. It is 40" x30" and vertical. Need to apply patina in paste form to avoid runs that occur with brushed on patina.

Thank you

Douglas

How to not get arc marks on the face of a flange when welding the inside (stainless tig)

It's happening when in breaking the arc

I'm doing a custom motorcycle and need to chemically etch an image into the gas tank and fenders. I have found a number of etching recipes (etchant), but they all use water. I really don't want to seed a bunch of rust into this steel so I am hoping somebody knows of a recipe that does not use water.

• Best recipe found - Copper Sulfate, Sodium Chloride (kosher salt), and WATER. Copper sulfate is not soluble in acetone. I guess I could use this method and follow it up with a subtle amount of that stuff that converts rust to zinc oxide.
• Self Etching Primer - I bought Rustoleum's self etch primer. I diligently cleaned bare steel with acetone, then sanded again. I didn't get a visible etch after I removed it with acetone.
• Ferric Chloride + WATER
• HCL (Hydrochloric acid) + WATER

Any and all wisdom is welcome with much gratitude and humility.

Where Can I find long pieces of #2 rebar galvanized. Its going inside holes in wood stakes spaced 7ft apart. How would I go about connecting the rebar aswell. Thanks!

In lieu of paying the cost of a Grizzly lathe stand for a G0602Z, what do you guys recommend? Huge plus if it has storage underneath. I was eyeballing this, but I don't see any weight rating for the top - only the drawers: https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/large/46-in-9-drawer-mobile-storage-cabinet-with-solid-wood-top-black-56613.html

If I remember right, the machine is roughly 350 lb.

Seller posted it this for $200 with the following description:

https://preview.redd.it/6xj7xd58mnuc1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=555039e5f94d9581b795c8bb19648f9c85d46704

"Craftsman 5x8 horizontal/vertical bandsaw with cooling system. This has been an excellent saw. Saw sits on a stand I made for it with 4 castors. Only reason I am selling is because I bought a bigger one. Price is firm."

Would this be a good option for a first band saw? Just doing hobby stuff right now, certainly can't justify price of a new saw, and have some space limitations in my shop. Anything to look out for on older/well used band saws (Wear items, end of life, etc.)?

Can anyone help me with identifying what's this piece attached to the Kant twist clamp called? And where I could find one? Thanks in advance.

so i'm sick and tired of rusty pipes and the only thing that helped somewhat was VHT flameproof ceramic spray paint.

my question is, what is the non consumer, proffesional fix for high temp resistant paint?

like, what does the militairy use for coating on their non-titanium exhaust parts on their fighter jet planes, what did LADA russia put on their exhausts in 1980. what is the most toxic, environmental unfriendly, but ultra effective exhaust paint.

y.know, the shit google straight up isnt showing us.

thanks in advance

i started doing HVAC installations when i was in highschool (about 9 months now) and i still do on my off days. i’m currently working in commercial painting. i don’t mind it. it’s easy money but i wanna do something more for myself. definitely not a trade i’m gonna stick to forever. i’m about to turn 18 and i’m really interested into becoming a welder in the future, but i’m not too sure on how to start a career in the industry. even the guy that got me into HVAC said i should go to welding school.

is a technical college/welding school worth saving up for? or should i buy a cheap stick welder and practice different techniques? any advice is appreciated

Hello! Any suggestions on what to use for forming skillets with a shop press? 12 gauge mild steel of various sizes but need to make the tooling…

I have seen people using a big disc and pressing into a ring of some sort but not sure exactly what is best. Anyone doing it and have some suggestions?

We have a nice faucet, and over the years it became grungy with hard water scale and stuff. So I disassembled it and soaked it in vinegar and cleaned off all the grunge, and of course this also removed the "oil rubbed bronze" finish.

So I bought some Jax Brown Darkener and that very nicely restored the finish. I think the darkener contains some mild acids... certainly no "oil".

So... why is this finish called "oil rubbed"? There is apparently no oil involved?

https://preview.redd.it/lal8sbz7gduc1.jpg?width=2080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d075ab69414e5f3b98cc1cb708356ca34df3785

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I have a battery rack base I welded:

Top view

It was rather "pringle shaped" before, but I used the Bendinator^TM to mostly fix that.

Now it has a bit of a subtle bend along it's length which I'd like to remove to make it flat

Questions:

1. Should I try using the Bendinator^TM again? The jack is rated 8,000 lbs, the chain is 5/16 grade 43 (rated 18,000lbs), and the straps are Rhino tie-dows rated for 10,000lbs. I'm a bit worried about safety if something breaks. However, every single post I can find WRT using chains and a jack don't mention it being an issue at all. Even a video I found theirs just sorta popped apart.
   a. Should I try to use without the straps?
2. Should I hit up my local metal fab place to see if they can bend it back?
3. Should I try flame straightening? Seems like it might be difficult because of how long/gentle the curve is (total length is ~57cm). I do not have an acetylene torch, I was thinking of trying to heat with the TIG. However, I've never done flame straightening before.

Hey guys, I'm trying to make external threads on a battery mount. I tested the existing on at 1/4x20 so that's what I used for this one. However, for whatever reason, the threads are just smooth, instead of being sharp how they usually are, so the nut just slides right down

Any ideas???

Mostly do woodworking, but I experimented with zinc for the first time and I think it came out pretty cool

Just wondering what professionals have to say about this. Looks sloppy too me but maybe I'm wrong, I have never welded in my life.