Hello there,

I'm building 10 DIY speakers using 4" full-range speaker cones for a theatre show. We plan to hang them from LX bars above the stage. I’ve measured everything and I need around 450 metre of cables.

I'm looking for a reliable and affordable 16AWG speaker cable that doesn’t burst the budget given. Any recommendations?

Thank you in advance!

Hey! I was trying to launch a sigma studio program i made and i keep getting these errors

https://preview.redd.it/fudye5veyxyd1.png?width=529&format=png&auto=webp&s=195432995d1bb88d35d1ddf16fd1197ab64ec109

https://preview.redd.it/lrgas6veyxyd1.png?width=527&format=png&auto=webp&s=a19dfda441ad230f5bb32051146a702206a4856e

https://preview.redd.it/vpmlo6veyxyd1.png?width=542&format=png&auto=webp&s=d33f222cd8f4746c9b11bdd3fd4983c54cccf653

https://preview.redd.it/embxp9veyxyd1.png?width=527&format=png&auto=webp&s=8736cc4e7ca24ca2fdf296844c7f145bff89aef1

https://preview.redd.it/2dzrp6veyxyd1.png?width=580&format=png&auto=webp&s=daff196670afefaa21ccc1f1ee6d351b9f82a7d7

Is there anything i can do to fix this? or am i screwed?

Hello,

I have a large garage and the below equipment. I am looking for a system that would be good for large parties and playing music when I workout. No DJing, just from playlists. Garage is 20' x 40'. Location is USA.

Some of the drivers on the Pioneer box possibly damaged. Music sounds just ok, but I know it can be better. Bass and high ranges are the real issues holding this back

AV Receiver: Kenwood KR-V8070 (20+years old possibly)

https://preview.redd.it/oqmw55iroxyd1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=849a9e9b3b18c97f773ef5233db37a2888d0d7a7

https://preview.redd.it/mxysy4iroxyd1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=812690dd1f7eda3c419159825719ed9d7c4d9425

Towers 1 & 2: Pioneer CS-F9900 (Also old, some speakers cracked and replaced, some damaged?). Frequency range is 32-20,000 Hz, Impedance is 8 Oh, and max power is 150W

https://preview.redd.it/278uiacuoxyd1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=89e3725f475565bc78ed812d605672809c3235a0

https://preview.redd.it/t45suacuoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc4d431b030dd5cfc2e9a7518228fae07b7afaee

https://preview.redd.it/b47cldcuoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9849856c77f60a1f79da9bdca90a24e7b3b295f8

https://preview.redd.it/bsqroicuoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7caba49d3ea256619bd4c59f528109485aa7234a

https://preview.redd.it/knxkqgcuoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=66aa35cf0c3b7069719d41cb631b6b723bac1990

Subwoofer: RBH 9" (?) externally powered.

The subwoofer has a blown out sound no matter what I set the power level or crossover to.

https://preview.redd.it/t0w6efuwoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b7863b908cc8a8fdcae3e42b56e8e5751b7dda3

https://preview.redd.it/czdj9guwoxyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e849b6b943a1569e71fa6ffec540f91e620c19b

Questions:

Would it be better to replace all the drivers in the pioneer box with something new? If so, any good recommendations?

Does my receiver need an upgrade to where I can control the drivers better?

Is the subwoofer worth keeping or should I rely on the bass from the two tower speakers for everything?

Thanks for any thoughts.

I’m working on turning a gorilla cart into a portable sub system I 2 10” subs I’m going to put on it and then I’m wanting to add some speakers and set it up for Bluetooth capabilities want to know if anyone has something like this and if so how did it go I’m mostly trying to figure out the battery issue I thought of using a car battery but that can be a hassle to charge but not sure what other battery would be able to work for this system

How can I get a bluetooth/USB speaker to work alongside another set of speakers connected through an amplifier and audio interface? Stereo mix doesn't work. I'm using Windows 11.

Hello all, Looking at making a 2.0 USB speaker as a little project. I’ve created 2.0 and 2.1 systems before using Dayton audio amps. Although, I’m wondering if it’s possible to create a 2.0 with an amp which uses signal input through usb and powered by the usb. It’ll be for the Mrs who isn’t a fan of blasting music so power provided from the usb would be fine. Any thoughts let me know!

So i recently acquired a pair of earthquake sound eq12s8. Im trying to build a cabinet for them but cant really find any information online about building mid range boxes. Any input helps. Thanks in advance.

As the title says, I've bose soundtouch 20 speaker. It's dead, and I'm from India (not much scope of getting it fixed) I've successfully opened it up, I love the sound quality of st20 so was thinking to have it saved by powering it using external amp from fosi audio. Is the idea good? Also, bose doesn't mention wattage specs of speakers, of the idea is good, how much power of amp should I go for? Ps, I've external active sub also, hence subout port is necessary for me to have which fosi is giving in few options of their amps. Im already excited that if it works, I'll finally have losless audio on st20 speakers. Thanks in advance dear audiophiles

building a dual-mono to drive a pair of Magnepan LRS - ordered a dual-TPA3255 board ("SAMP-200" advertised @ 1200w) and now sourcing a switching power supply. Found a 40V 30A unit that should do the trick as I've read of some frying said board @ 48V.

appreciate any and all comments and direction, this will be my first build.

I just bought an amplifier (Wuzhi audio ZK-HT21 2.1 ch 160W X2 + 220W. I have bought a lower powered version before and it didn't had this plugs, also, in the pictures I found on the internet they don't have them either, so what are they for? One of them says "subwoofer audio output" but there's already the outputs from the back and this one's have 3 pins!?

hi, i am not at all into audio or anything like that, but i just wanna ask some more experienced people about the speakers i just bought for my laptop setup recently.

so its a cheap speaker, and it comes in to channel making it 2.0 (i think?) so my first thought was that it would be a stereo speaker but after testing it with those L R speaker test on yt, apparently its not stereo(?) it turns out that it always plays the same audio from left and right speaker, even after i tweaked with my windows settings..

now my question is can you make a mono speaker, stereo?

Yet another newb here. I'm building two sealed enclosures for full range speaker drivers for my desktop gaming PC. I've designed and built a prototype for my very first DIY speaker which sounds pretty amazing if I don't say so myself (compared to my old ones anyways). My second design fits my speaker driver specs for physical volume by <1% error. I'm very happy with it but I think it can be improved. For that I have a few areas for questions, things I don't understand yet.

1. Should I mount the speaker on the outside or inside of the front panel? Does it matter and why?
2. When designing an enclosure, should the driver's physical volume be considered?
3. Are thicker sides always better or are there downsides? I think the rule of thumb was 2cm.
4. If my enclosure volume is precise, do I need stuffing? Is furniture stuffing the same as speaker stuffing?
5. I am using shielded cables but since I am DIY'ing my enclosure, should I shield the inside of the enclosure too? Does it have to completely enclose the speaker driver to be effective? Does shielding do anything if it isn't connected to ground?

I know it's a lot so feel free to answer some or all of my questions. Any other tips or improvements are welcome too. Thank you! Here's a picture of my enclosure design:

Without mesh

With mesh

https://tidal.com/playlist/dc14f15a-7f49-4967-a9f3-e0ee043ae9c3

I have used these songs to test audio equipment for about 10 years now, I hope someone finds it useful

Currently our home amp is 600Watts per channel class A/B.
Specifications:

• Power: 600W x 2
• Frequency Range: 5Hz to 100kHz
• Load Impedance: 4-16
• Input Impedance: 10K-22K
• Input Sensitivity: 350mv
• Total Harmonic Distortion: < 0.1%
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 80dB 
• Power Supply: AC 220V 50-60Hz

All of the output channels have been occupied both A+B sides by the speakers we have

Our subs are 2x 8ohms per channel in parallel making it 4ohms (200 watts per woofer, 400 watts per channel). I have also connected a small box that contains the mids and highs.

Should I get a 2nd amp meant only for the mids and highs? (combined power of 200 watts with mids + highs per channel)

I know this amp we bought is way too powerful for our current system

Also we usually use about 1/8th of the power most of the time as it really powerful

Hi everyone,

Sorry flair is wrong, didn't find one for recessed speakers.
I bought a house, and it turns out there are 2 in-ceiling speakers in the kitchen. I finally found where to wires come out of and made sure they connect to these speakers using a battery.

I want to find and suitable small bluetooth amp to drive them but I'm a bit lost with power wattage necessary. I unmounter one of the speakers to find RMS info, but only got brand part number.

It's paradigm, part No: 2010901020. (See image, sorry it might be a bit distorted)

I tried searching a bit, but I'm mostly getting results for ebay listing of paradigm studio 100 V3, or CR-60, that seem to be tower speakers, without all the info I thought I needed. For the CR-60 it looks like it says suitable power 15-80W (if it even is that speaker). Would I need an amp with twice that (for 2 speakers)? How much would I really need in terms of power?.

I though maybe someone here could help me with that.

Thank you.

Edit: Added the extra info on what I found so far.

https://preview.redd.it/qygm90uydcxd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b6977f7e2c0975447a85fb4c2315c4a923bcbbb

Hi, I'm currently in the design phase of a device that needs an headphone amp. I wonder how the TPA6130A2 performs with higher impedance headphones, as it is feature wise exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately the datasheet doesn't provide performance characteristics above 32 Ohms, however the output voltage seems to be more than high enough.

Whats your experience/thoughts on this amp?

Hey! I am trying to find a good transistor that can take a 20-25v power source, and have its gate activated by a GPIO pin (DSP powered separately). Im not exactly sure what to look for. Would this work https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/2n5457-d.pdf ?

Any advise on what kind of glue to use to fix this vinyl on the bookshelf speaker please

I’m sure this has been asked, but what is everyone’s current reference guide for how to make a DSP? I’m not talking Dayton PCB; I’m talking design your own circuit and write your own software.

This is my first project i am planning currently don't shoot me down. I have selected following 3 speakers. I have not followed any guide. Please help me with the process.

My goal is to build 3 way studio monitors. Not looking for super flat frequency response but something that can be preset eq'ed between casual and mixing mode.

1. Epique E180HE-44 7" DVC MMAG Extended Range Subwoofer 4 Ohm per Coil. (25 to 3,000Hz, 200W RMS)

2. Dayton Audio PC105-4 4" Full-Range Poly Cone Driver (80 to 15,000Hz, 40W RMS)

3. Dayton Audio NHP25Ti-4 1" Titanium Dome High Power Neodymium Tweeter 4 Ohm (3,000 to 20,000Hz, 40W RMS)

I want to make sure the speakers above are a good choice. Please advise!!

Next, i would like to learn about crossover ,power supply, connectors and boxes.

I am looking to DIY some BT bone conduction headphones in a Dirt Bike helmet so I can listen to music while I ride but still hear my surroundings/radio.

Ideally, I would have some transducers in cutouts in the helmet padding and then have the amplifier, battery etc outside the helmet.

Obviously this is not going to be an audiophile grade setup but I would love to get a fidelity level that is acceptable for music. Are there any transducers out there that can produce that quality?

I have also looked into getting a pair of Shokz and disassembling/repurposing but havent been able to find much. Has anyone tried this route?

Hello r/diysound,

I'm hoping some of you can help me out since this isn't my area of expertise—I usually stick to telecom and networking, but I’m always up for a challenge. I have a 30x30 shop where I want to install speakers (hardwired is fine), and I’d also like to add outdoor speakers for a hangout area, mounted on the exterior of the shop.

I figured having two speakers inside the shop and maybe two speakers on the exterior are more than enough for what I am looking for but you will know better than me.

Ideally, I'd like to have the option to control the indoor and outdoor speakers separately, so I can turn off one set while keeping the other on, and vice versa. I don’t need anything extremely loud, but I do want clear sound with decent quality. Heavy bass isn’t a priority for me.

As for the budget, I’d like to stay under $1,500-$2,000 if possible, but I’m open to adjusting it based on what this project might require. Any advice or recommendations on the amplifiers and speakers would be much appreciated!

I need to use a subwoofer for a physics experiment on resonance but I’ve never used this type of equipment before. I thought this subwoofer had a spot for an RCA cable. How the heck do I connect this to my system?

I have a set of well loved Behringer Studio50/USB speakers in which the amp was drastically killed from an electrical surge- Scorch marks on the PCB & completely exploded components... However the drivers & enclosures are great.

I'm looking into resurrecting them with a Fosi Audio TB10A, or maybe spend even more time and integrate a Dayton KAB-2150

I figure it's going to take me $USD 50-100 and at least couple of hours to get it all built and dialed in, and I've done plenty of electrical work so I know what I'm getting into. (not to mention feature creep-itis)

On the other hand, I can pick up a set of Amazon specials (like the Edifier R1280T or the Swans OS-10) for around $100-$150 and they would suit my needs OK, but without the time outlay.

What would you do?

I have never even played close to loud, but somehow this sub now just is making a fart noise now and then.

Instead of scrapping the whole thing, is there a replacement driver you could recommend?