I am currently working on making a tobacco pipe. It’s a brass pipe with a wooden chamber. What glue should I use to glue the chamber and the mouthpiece to the brass?

I'm buying a used Swingset and I'm looking to rejuvenate it with a new stain/sealant before reassembling. How should I prep the wood and what stain/sealer should I use for a cedar playset that's already been stained with the manufacturer's water based stain? Swingset is the Backyard Discovery brand. Thanks!

I made these honey wands for christmas gifts, I'm a very amateur wood turner so I'm pretty happy with how they came out but I'm now wondering if perhaps they're a bit too big to actually be usable as honey wands lol. They're about 7 inches long.

I’ve got this slab table from red gum and today noticed these weird little holes. Table has been in my house for over a year so don’t know where they would have come from.

Hey guys, so years ago I got this ikea kitchen top to use as a desk, I made two holes in it like the photo above for cable pass through

Now I want to fill it up, what's the best way to do this? The color doesn't matter since there will be a mousepad over it but I just need it filled up

Never done anything like this before and expecting something to go wrong but here’s to hoping :)

I got the idea when researching pergola kits for an outdoor space. We were ready to upgrade to a king size and I decided to make the bed frame. The legs and the four 6”x6” beams of the base are solid. The footer, headboard, verticals, and top perimeter beams are all hollow made of 6” boards boxed in to lessen the weight. I distressed the beams with stain, my belt and palm sander, witewashed washed them slightly, and sealed them in poly warm gloss.

Pergola brackets: ~$200 Base beams: ~$80 6” boards: ~$400 Shibari playground: priceless

A little while back there was a post here from u/Terrik27 detailing how the famous 3M Cubitron sandpaper we’ve all heard about was fake if purchased on Amazon, and that you got different, better quality material if you ordered from other places. The poster said in the comments that they ordered the 20 count packs sold from Tay Toolworks. I immediately recognized that the sandpaper I had, which I purchased from Amazon, matched their description of the bad or “fake” stuff, so I ordered some of the 20-count packs of sandpaper from tay toolworks. In both cases, what I ordered from both sites was “3M 710w Xtract Cubitron II Net Disc”.

I haven’t had a chance to thoroughly test them yet, but I wanted to put my 2 cents in and say that so far my experience is confirming their findings. The sandpaper from tay toolworks is a slightly darker color (more of a dark purple), the abrasive material seems thicker or denser, the backing is slightly different, and the markings on the back are slightly different. The zig-zag patterns are identical for both. The markings on the back of the stuff from TT is darker black and slightly crisper. The Amazon stuff came in a very official looking box which really gave no hints that it could possibly be counterfeit, there are lots of details on the box, including the phone number and address for the 3M abrasive systems division, and all of the official symbols, markings, and safety codes. If it’s a fake box, it’s a masterpiece fake box. The stuff from tay tools did not come with a box, it came loose in bags with a printout from 3M that seems to be intended for resale, for example the insert has instructions on it that the insert should be delivered to the operator along with the product.

Just like the other poster said, I don’t really have any way to say for sure which one is “fake” and possibly neither of them are, but they are clearly different, to the point where they seem to be made of different materials, so it would be very strange for a company like 3M to be releasing batches of the same brand of sandpaper with such large differences.

But then I had an epiphany: the stuff from Amazon actually has “710w” inked on the back side of the disks, whereas the stuff from tay toolworks does not. Both disks have the words “extract II”, along with the 3M logo, some safety symbols, the grit number, and some other numbers.

I jumped on 3M’s website, and they sell two different Cubitron II mesh discs. One is branded as “710w extract”, and the other is not. From reading the product descriptions, they sound almost identical, right down to the wording, to the point where I can’t tell how these two products are expected to differ. The pictures on the website of the two products look almost identical also, I can’t see any obvious differences (color, pattern, mesh, etc). However, they are listed separately, and they have their own product pages. Keep in mind this is on 3M’s actual website.

Therefore, I have a proposal to explain everything: some vendors are selling “3M 710 extract Cubitron II net discs”, and some vendors are selling “3M Cubitron II net discs”, which are not the same thing. However, the vendors are treating them as if they are the same thing. On Tay Toolworks website, they very clearly specify the product as “710w”, but the product I received does not have “710w” written on it anywhere, whereas the stuff from Amazon does.

Now, this is all completely independent from which one is better. They look and feel meaningfully different in my hands and seem to be made of different materials, possibly in different factories with different rolls of mesh, so it would not surprise me if they perform differently. The other poster indicated that the stuff from Tay Toolworks was much better, and if my theory is correct this would be the “3M Cubitron II Net Disc” (the non-710w one).

And of course, the original poster could be correct and one is just fake. But, the more I think about it, it seems less likely. The stuff from Amazon has been pretty good (been using it for a while) and it’s been available for purchase for years there. I’ve ordered it several times and always gotten the same thing. So, it would have to be a fake seller, successfully impersonating 3M for years on a major marketplace under the same product listing, and selling a fake product which is ultimately pretty good (at least as good as Mirka mesh sandpaper) and also quite consistent each time I bought it. That isn’t impossible but it does feel improbable.

I’m going to be doing a big project over the winter holidays and I’ll edit this post to add my final conclusions on any performance difference I can notice. If I feel particularly bored and I have nothing more interesting to do with my life, I may even call the number for the 3M abrasive systems division in my spare time and ask them about this, which somehow feels more painful than doing an exhaustive sanding test.

Thanks to u/Terrik27 for initially turning me on to this, regardless of what is actually going on these two sandpapers are clearly different and I’m curious to see which one I like more after using them for a while.

I've made a few balsa crakbaits, jerkbaits, and swimbaits off and on, but only ever one at a time and with whatever immediately obvious resources I could get from my dad. Drill, sanding supplies, pliers, etc. Even had to pass off my outlines for him to cut out with the bandsaw at work.

Now I've got my own place and getting started on a workbench and my tool collection. For those who have experience with similar small scale projects or projects with very soft wood like balsa, what have you found is very helpful and worth getting?

My first serious wood carving project. Making a plaque for my wife for her Christmas present. It's a piece of oak, I'm planning on carving in raised letters. Still in the stenciling stage and trying to get it all laid out nice. Does anyone have recommendations on how to finish it? Will update with the finished product in a few days (hopefully).

I bought a BeaverCraft tool set with four small knifes and they came kind of unsharpened. I'm just wondering if there's a way to sharp them that's the most recommended.

Or the result would be the same it doesn't matter which procedure I follow.

Basically I'm new to woodcarving and considering to adopt it as a hobby, but never got to sharp any wood cutting knife before, so try to learn it from YouTube videos.

Appreciate any references on this.

When I was a child my dad made a small Japanese house for each of his daughters.

The Japanese house had a wooden porch/veranda all the way around. I wanted to spiffy mine up, so I started to sand and seal the wood. My dad said that I needed to sand and seal it seven times. I did and it looked beautiful.

My question: Is it necessary to actually sand and seal seven times? Would a couple of times be just as good?

I’m finding lately I’ve been getting a lot of small splinters. Small enough that I don’t notice them until they get infected. Usually when roughing out stock. Any of you have this issue, and how do you deal with it?

Just went into my attic and saw this. Can’t remember if it was there prior. Anything to be concerned about?