Hi, I’m looking to make some mdf doors for my project. I was wondering if someone made them and what did you use to protect them after connecting two mdf panels?

I’m designing a new office desk and looking for some potential substitutes for qs white oak as this will run upwards of $1500 just for lumber. A few notes

1. Avoiding woods with red undertones (like cherry, mahogany, etc) as it will clash with our hickory flooring
2. I do not like the flames of regular oak grain which is why I was going for QS. Open to other straight grains
3. QS white oak is running $15-20 / bf near me depending on thickness.

Thanks!

Hello. I have always been into woodworking but have never really had the time or resources to actually get started, until recently. Was planning on starting with some Foureyes plan to get a feel for more complex projects, but after he made a video with the support of BetterHelp, I cannot ethically watch or support him anymore.

Does anyone have recommendations about other plans for someone trying to get started with more complex projects?

https://preview.redd.it/fz16wt3wgted1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1470a5aa18c63fefec657efd82293cf4a81f9c24

https://preview.redd.it/2me9js3wgted1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7aeff48f292cf9428c99d0f9e4e142a3e3d912dd

This year, the markings visible in the pictures have suddenly appeared. Are these signs of normal wear and in need of repainting, or could they be caused by insects? Thank you!

Long shot but here we go!

I saw a reel on Instagram this morning on how to build yourself a nice timber bench he basically cut 4 lengths of timber at a 4degree angle or something! It looked hella nice and I would like to build it myself! Cannot find this video for the life of me so if anyone what’s what I’m waffling about please help! Many thanks!

I’ve got a few boards like this that I want to make into a small tabletop. I was hoping for 1” finished thickness but I don’t think I’ll get it with the cup in these. (Currently 1 1/4) If I ripped it down the middle I might be able to pull it off though. What order should I joint/rip in order to get a mostly flat glue up before planing/sanding?

Hi - I have a beautiful handmade wood desk from Quebec. I just moved to San Diego area near the beach. We leave windows open a lot because of the beautiful weather but obviously there is salt air and the marine layer - I am a lifelong East Coaster - what do I need to do to protect the desk?

3/4 Maple faced MDF no stain just clear coat.

I just made a wooden spoon, with zero experience, so i made it out of a wood I had lying around, witch happened to be spruce, and it has that strong spuce smell. Does the smell natural fade as I use it? Do I need to do something to get rid of it? Or better said CAN i do something to rid the wood of its natural smell? Or is the spoon unsalvageable and I should start over with a different wood, and a bit more experience? Any kind of help would be welcome.

I read on the internet that olive oil and vinegar can rid a wood of a smell, but dos that include its original smell? Or just smells aquired with stains or in some other ways?

Ps: the solution should be food safe, because im planning to use the spoon as a regular spoon

What insect causes this coloring and holes in this maple board?

I'm working on a piece that will be at surface level in my house which means there is a non-zero chance that a cat will spray it. Not likely, but you never know.

I know that conversion varnish is very durable for that and pretty much everything else.

I also have some Tried & True in the shop and Christian Becksvoort was doing the below about 20 years ago according to an old FWW article. No idea what he does now--except enjoy retirement, I think.

1. Sand

I belt sand to 120, use a random-orbit sander for 150-, 180- and 220-grit, hand-sand to 220-grit and sometimes 320. Then I polish with 0000 steel wool. 2. First coat Straight Danish oil, ambient temperature should be above 70°. Oil each piece (case, drawers, bottoms, tops) and wipe, being careful to remove all oil. Let dry for 48 hours, and then go over all surfaces with 0000 steel wool. 3. Second coat Use a mixture of 2/3 Tried & True varnish oil plus 1/3 spar varnish. Wipe thoroughly, at least twice. Let dry another 48 hours. 4. Third coat The same mixture of 2/3 Tried & True varnish oil plus 1/3 spar varnish. Apply and wipe thoroughly, and again allow 48 hours dry time. 5. Wax I do not wax anything except the drawer runners and sides because wax encourages heat rings. Assemble all the parts, and wax drawer runners and drawer sides for a smoother glide.

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I also have a gallon of conversion varnish--unopened--that says it needs to be used by January 2024. Missed that date.... Part of me says give it a go, the other part says I'd be really bent out of shape if I ruined my woodworking with a bad finish. Thoughts?

I was wondering if I could use an electric planer to plane a 2 foot piece of wood down to about 11/16 of and inch and 1/4 of an inch?