Recently bought a Dewalt 735X Planer and a JET JJ-6CSX and planning on getting cutter upgrades for both.

I keep seeing Shelix and Lux Cut everywhere for both powertools but not sure which to go with.

I’m leaning toward getting the Lux Cut III’s for both tools but I would like some input from you all before making such a big purchase, thanks in advance!

I requested the beams from an old Japanese house being torn down in my neighborhood. One of them is huge. About 50cm/20 inches diameter. More than 2 meters long (8ft?) No idea what I could use it for. A bench seat?

I took these beams for firewood, they would have been taken to a dump otherwise. If I can’t think of a good use for the giant one I’ll chop it up and burn it I guess.

Any ideas?

My aunt wants a bookshelf so I took all the measurements and made this 3d model. But I don't know how I'm going to hold all the pieces together. Any tips? TIA

3d model: https://imgur.com/a/XKpmzto

What are the general guidelines/rules on how deep or large a butterfly should be when cracks in wood go all the way through and/or partially through a wood slab? Additionally, what about cracks on the underside of the slab, but not quite showing on the surface side?

Slab is 1.5" thick and there are 2 full-depth cracks on the surface side, 80% through on the underside of the other end of the slab. Would be a slab for kitchen counter. These butterflies would not be for esthetics. Need to stop the spread of the cracks without making the slab look like it's been stitched up like crazy.

Recolor using spray or something else?

i am requesting guidance on finishing. Monkeypod slab to use s a headboard. I like warm reddish tones. After much reading and YTing, thinking a hand rubbed poly is my safe choice. But I fear it won’t bring out warmth or red tones. Wondering if a tinted poly is a good idea for Monkeypod? Much gratitude for sharing experience and wisdom,

I’m new to steam bending timber, I’ve really only started to try and straighten some beautiful black butt hard wood for a balustrade railing.

The question I have - is it normal for hard woods to have water stains following steaming? I’ve luckily trialled on a spare bit of timber and has left water damage staining

I’m building a custom drum for a friend, and he wants to put a picture(s) of someone special to him on the shell

What ways are the easiest with the best result that I can then put a clear lacquer over?

Greetings, this question might come off as a little silly so please bear with me. It is regarding vintage furniture treatments and pets.

I’m looking to get a Danish 1960s couch with a solid teak frame, reupholster the easily removable cushions. Gorgeous piece.

The piece feels dry, does not have any odor, the seller does not know when it was last treated. There are light signs of wear, I really don’t think it needs a refinish.

My concern is the history of the piece and how it was treated. I read teak oil is extremely toxic to pets, but cannot find any information aside from that. If it was treated 60, 20, 5, or 1 year ago, could there be any concern for my cat? She walks on furniture, licks her paws after. She has even chewed on an old chair a fee times. Yes, she is naughty but a valuable member of my family. If there is any risk from this piece, I would rather not have it.

Any insight is kindly appreciated, thanks for your time.

I have these 2 oak stumps I’m going to use for tables. They’re each over 100lbs. How can I stabilize them without a vacuum or oven?

I'm design building a couple twin bed frames for my kids. I'm a hobbyist wood worker. Many of the plans I find call for 2x4/6/8/10 as the side rails. But many manufactured bed frames seem to have 1x__ side rails. I have the head boards finished and just need a solution for the side rails. The foot board (is that the right name?) will be very simple, two posts, and the same side rail between them.

I do hope to have the mattress sunk into the frame about 1/3-1/2 of the way, so planning on likely using an 8-10' tall side rail.

TIA

I have tried making wedges to put in my pickaxe put everytime the wedge broke so I wonder, is it something you do and hope it doesn't break on you or is there something else?

I just finished building a new shop and I’m looking to lay out my dust collection the best I can. The shop is 20X30 and I only run one tool at a time. The dust collector is a 1 1/2 JP Jet DC-1100.

Im putting most of the tools they require dust collection along one wall, except my table saw and band saw. I’m planning on putting the dc in the corner along that wall and running a pvc trunk to roughly the middle point of the wall. From there, I’ll run a short length of 4” flex to the tool I’m using. I plan on having one 10 ft flex that I’ll just move from tool to roll as I need it.

So finally, my question; a couple of my tools, including band saw have 2 1/2” dust ports. I know reducing the hose from 4” to 2 1/2” will cause an obvious reduction in efficiency. Is there a difference if the reducer is at the tool or somewhere further back? I’ve seen people recommending keeping the line full size as long as possible, and others say the reduction causes the same loss regardless of where it is.

I’m trying to decide between putting 4-2 1/2 reducers on the tools with the smaller ports or possibly branching the main line into a 4” and a 2 1/2” with blast gates, so I can just use a smaller hose where I don’t gain anything from the larger 4” hose.

Thanks for your help.

I'm an electrician, with a hobby for woodworking. I don't make anything big enough, or often enough, to convince the Mrs to let me buy a table saw. So for now I'm woodworking with my electrical tools. Not great, but i get by!

Biggest headache right now is doing 45° rips along a board. Best tool I have to try and make it work is my sawzall, but they're pretty violent and the cuts are not great. Before I cave and just go buy a table saw, or even a circular saw, I figured it give you all a shout if anyone had any ideas.

Thanks!