Is there any way to increase the towing capacity of a F-150 5.0, either by adding a supercharger or installing other factory-OEM components?

I've never really considered buying one of the US brands before in a vehicle because of reliability concerns relative to Japanese brands. Currently drive a Toyota Rav4 and want to get a mid-size for more space and comfort. I also want more performance.

These days, not even Toyota is as reliable as they used to be (see the Tundra debacle, for example), so I'm trying to be more open minded and explore other brands as well.

In the Toyota and Honda stable, there's nothing really worth considering and none of their offerings tick the performance box for me. And the driving experience is just a bit meh. And then the Koreans are overall not the best quality reliability wise. Yeah you get a 100k mile warranty, but who wants their car sitting in the shop all the time?

The Germans are too expensive for what I'm looking for.

So I have narrowed it down to the Mazda CX90 Turbo S (340hp inline 6 engine, pretty sweet ride, but some compromises on interior space and storage, and also some initial quality/reliability issues). And then I test drove the 2025 Explorer ST on Saturday, and was impressed by the performance, and liked the interior layout with plenty of storage cubbies and spaceous layout. Unsure about the driver's seat actually, but I plan on testing the Platinum with the V6 here soon as well as I read that it's also supposed to have a slightly softer suspension that might be more comfortable overall. Wondering if the seat is a bit better too.

But other than that, what are realistically some issues I can expect on the Explorer? How is it reliability wise? How is the build quality? Interior quality? What are common issues, how expensive are they to maintain, etc.?

I have a ford fiesta titanium (2010) and it’s just been at the garage for electrical repairs. There is a rattle in the driver door and I asked them to fix it but they couldn’t find anything loose on the inside of the door card so they tightened it all. When I got it back the rattle had gone until I noticed again tonight. It happens when I close the door, play bassy music and when there’s a bump. Can cause a rattle when tapping around the centre on the outside. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks!

I have a 2013 ford escape that has the mykey feature turned on but the option is not showing up in the settings for me to turn it off and I have both keys

My 2010 ford explorer sport trac has got its key stuck in the ignition for the second time last time this happened it costed me $500 and I’m broke so I can’t pay for it and tips?

My A/C is all out of whack! Fan turns on/off when it wants, max cold air lasts for a few minutes then turns to maximum heat. After a long search, mechanic to mechanic, I seem to be searching for a needle in a haystack!

Anyone know where to find a:

2011 Ford Explorer HVAC Module Part#: BB5Z-19980-G

Any leads/refurb/stockpile of old parts/mechanics who could help?! In Miami. Thanks is advance!

Hi Everyone. I very recently bought a Ranger with a Diesel engine. Its the first pickup I own and really enjoying it. However I've been noticing a slight diesel smoke smell when I'm driving. It's very slight but it's there. Is this normal for diesel engines? Should I have it checked out? It's a second hand vehicle so I need to report this soon if it's a problem they need to fix.

Any thoughts will be valued.

I need advice on what to do with my 2013 Ford Edge SEL 3.5L V6 AWD with 165k Miles. I bought it in fall of 2023 with about 150k miles from a dealership. For the past year or so, I will occasionally be at an idle for a while, sometimes in park, sometimes in drive waiting in a drive thru line or something. After idling for a bit, the RPM's drop sometimes and the car seems to shutter almost like it's about to stall out and die. Usually this issue is accompanied by the yellow/orange wrench light telling me something is wrong with the powertrain system. Very seldom does it actually cause the CEL to come on though. But it would lead to pending/stored codes of P2196 and P2198 (O2 sensors stuck rich) When this happens, upon accelerating, I can't accelerate very slowly or ease into speeding up. It's more just a lurch forward like it has too much gas and wants to skip slowly going from 0-10mph to just 10mph and more.

Now I'm not even close to a mechanic, but I can be 'youtube certified' enough to try and DIY some basic things. I cleaned the MAF sensor, checked the air filter, cleaned the throttle body intake, and replaced the purge valve (Autozone ~$30USD). Still continued to happen here and there, but never enough to want to get a $200 diagnosis or replace the MAF Sensor. If I get this issue, I can turn off the car, start it again, and it drives fine.

Now Recently, I filled up my tank (never over fill, just until it clicks) and then my car failed to start. After trying 2 times, I looked up what to try. Common answer was to give it a little gas while starting. After doing that, it started and instantly died again. One more time and kept giving it some gas for a little longer, and it worked. No CEL or Wrench, but I did plug in my cheap OBD-II scanner, and read the codes it said were stored. This time I got P2195, P2197, and P0300 - The 2195/97 codes were still Sensor 1 on B1 and B2, but this time for stuck lean. So same O2 sensors if I understand correct, but now reading lean instead of rich. The P0300 says for random misfire in cylinders.

Drives fine, but when Idling for a while, I can tell it still doesn't like the mixture as the RPM's do fluctuate, and occasionally will cause the wrench light.

Does anybody else have this issue? All of my research tells me it could be clogged/dirty air filter (have checked), the MAF Sensor (have cleaned it), the Purge Valve (replaced last spring), the throttle body (cleaned it), O2 sensors, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plugs, Vacuum Leak, etc.

I don't want to drop the money to play the "fix this and see, then fix that" as I've seen other threads of people with somewhat similar issues, but they aren't identical to mine. I am able to view live data or freeze on my OBD scanner, but I don't know what to look for or what the readings mean really. The MAF seemed to run about 0.3-0.8g/s I think, which sounded like it was normal for idle, and seemed to increase when accelerating.

I'd like some advice on what I should try next or how to narrow down the problem. I've thought about checking the spark plugs and fuel injectors, maybe replacing the Purge valve again with a OEM part, or try to rig up some sort of DIY smoke/fog test to look for leaks. Would love input of similar issues or if there's any mechanics out there with some advice.

May be totally unrelated, but since owning the car (about 1.5 years as of Feb 2025) I have had a few instances of needing to break suddenly, like slam on the breaks. Twice when I've done that, the breaks go spongy, like I could push the pedal to the floor and they're only half way compressed or something. I have bled the breaks myself, but I did have this happen 1 time since. Break pads seem plenty thick still, wondering if it had something to do with Master Cylinder? Hasn't happened to me in a while, but might as well list here with my other issue.

Thanks in advance!

Ford Expedition Max SSV 4x4. Perfect condition. No issues at all. This is an SSV trim (Special Services Vehicle) Cam phasers, water pump, chains, belts, valve covers, spark plugs , etc. replaced at 100k miles. New front differential All engine and different work is under warranty for 4 more years or 72k miles. New transmission fluid and filter Professional 3 inch lift (with all new coilovers, control arms, links, etc) Brand new 33in Yokohama AT tires and 20 in Fuel wheels. Additional CarPlay screen with dashcam Towing package 105,000 miles

Hello friends,

Just wondering if anyone knows about collectors or collections that are for sale? I’m currently working on a big ford collection from memorabilia with Henry Ford ll signatures, Ford Times magazines, car parts etc. I have a few questions and just wanted opinions about certain items. Not sure if this makes any sense.

Hello everybody, it has been 2 months since I bought a 2019 Ford Focus Turnier station wagon ST-Line with a 1.5 EcoBoost 150 hp engine. Just curious about your experiences with comfort,because i found the car a little bit bumpy.I think the suspensions on this model are really hard; it's good for grip but not so good for comfort, and l'm feeling vibrations in the cabin. I think it is because of the three-cylinder engine,what is your experiences with this model? Thanks for your comments.

Hi, my neighbour had bought a used ford Kuga 2013 and had gone through 6 batteries in 6 months. Had it at a specialist and been told it's the battery. So bought another new one and it went flat after 4 days. No fault codes. Noticed that radio has turned on but is it possible to kill a battery in 4 days? Disconnected the module and will try and charge it. Anyone had a similar issue? Thanks!

hello people of r/ford, it has been almost 2 weeks since ive had the ford gt now. its pretty loud i would say as the GT has a full borla exhaust with long tube headers, however whats pretty disappointing is the fact that my GT3 is louder then the ford GT, which in my opinion is quite surprising as ive heard ford gt's much louder in person, but i cannot find these exhaust systems anywhere at all nor a specialist that specifies in ford gt’s.
any exhaust suggestions for my GT? this GT is the 2005 model, not ’06 or ’17 and up.

i got a 2006 bf falcon.since a couple days ago its been mildly shaking at around 80kph to 110. antly reason this could be. sparkplug leads or smth?? ive got 2 weights on the rear passenger tyre. and some on both front wheels.

Hi

I have a 2015 (65 reg - "new" model) Ford Tourneo Custom and the key fob has just stopped working, assuming this is a new battery job.

However, unlike other keyfobs i have had in the past, i'm finding results that the keyfob is not supposed to be dismantled - am i going to be in for a shock if I ask Ford for a new battery/fob cost?

Or, am i stupid and there is another way to do this?

In my country its the 2025 ford taurus. I was looking for reviews online since it's my first time buying a hybrid car but couldn't find any. Then i realized ford stopped the taurus in 2019 but they are still selling whatever that is as a taurus. Anyway would you recommend buying whatever this is ?

She’s a beauty. Any feedback would be appreciated

120K miles. Mechanic said right side Catalytic converter was bad. Check engine light came back on in 18 miles. I’m not sure what code it was throwing before but now it is showing 420 and 430. Truck seems to runs fine. Both cats are brand new (idk what brand he got) both upstream O2 sensors run right at zero milli amps at idle and sustained throttle. Both down stream sensors go from switching to a stable .75ish millivolt signal after that cats warm up. I’ve read all types of odd fixes online. What should I really be looking for? Long term Fuel trims were around 6% when the code was set and anywhere from 6-10% when idling but the long term and short term seemed to cancel each other out when I held constant 2000 rpm. Like positive 8 long term and -8 short term. Any ideas? The code seems to reset pretty fast.