Hi All,

We've got a 2003 Focus with a broken rear badge/reg light assembly. We can't seem to find any replacements online or otherwise - would anyone know where to source one from? It's a UK model and in South Africa. Thanks!

Hello hope you are all good.

Recently my Ford started acting weird, when I'm in high gear it starts to lose power and stutter, when I pull up the Autostart/stop button lights up and when I start it again it drives without any issues. it doesn't happen all the time and sometimes it can take days to happen again.

Anyone able to shed me some light on possible problems before I take it to the garage?

Thank you for the attention

https://reddit.com/link/1ghrek3/video/8puhz4v70gyd1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1ghrek3/video/bulqp3u70gyd1/player

My 2007 Focus has PZEV which means it has a lot of extra equipment before the intake and as well a 'lifetime' air filter which is a very restrictive box containing many layers of foam.

This car... this duratec engine. It seems to not want to die. I've been fixing it up and I think at 250 or so k that that airbox must be really restrictive.

I am a 'yea i can replace valve covers, swap my tires and do minor suspension work' kind of guy. I'm not big into tuning, I haven't ever done anything like this.

My internet research appears to indicate I have 2 choices at this point. (well 3 really)

1. Buy the oem drop in replacement airboxes that run from 150-400 dollars on amazon, with a replaceable filter. It seems like the car works fine if you leave the pzev in and convert the filter this way.

2. Convert the car to cold air, meaning cut out the filter box and put a filter on the end of the intake. In my limited experience mind I'd leave the pzev stuff in but put the cold air filter right before the pzev box. But I have read that if I do this my car will run lean because it's used to this restrictive filter. Any tips or info on how hard it would be to retune my car if I did this?

3. I'm mulling over the idea of rednecking my own replaceable filter by just cutting this airbox in a strategic location and replacing the filter media.

It's not a super well kept gem. It's a low trim with no options. But I think I could probably get another 100k at least out of the original timing chain and clutch. What would you folks do to keep it going as far as the air system is concerned???

What do I need to check beforehand? Apart from oil and spark plugs. Share your experiences on long trips with your Focus and whether it is safe to do so.

I need to have the cooling fan assembly replaced on my 2012 Ford focus SE (170,000+ miles) Is motorcraft brand close to OEM or is there another I should be looking for?

So took my focus in for a full service at a mechanics I've used before today, all fluids replaced + new spark plugs and now when accelerating from like 1.5-2K revs in 3rd or 4th (haven't dared take it a higher gear but 1st and 2nd gear are fine) its doing this weird shuddering like its misfiring or something (no pops and bangs though). Could this be an issue with new oil / new spark plugs bedding in or has the mechanic fucked up somehow? No mechanics open over the weekend around me so plan on taking it back first thing Monday morning just want to know what possible issue could be so I don't get fisted or lied to. Thanks

Edit: car drove perfectly before today, for 12 year old car it was basically faultless.

It was kind of a thing to put in and I can’t figure out how to get the steering wheel buttons to work on it, but it sounds great. Looks great and Green feels good.

I’ve had her for 3.5 years and during the first she over heated and had to replace thermostat and coolant hose , couple months ago I had to replace that same hose. Now I’m paying attention to my coolant level and hot or cold it’s down to the bottom. What else can I look at to fix this problem ? Water pump ? Radiator ?

I have a 2011 ford focus and scraped the bottom on a hump of gravel yesterday. It was not a bad or prolonged scrape, no noises at the time, but I'm from the north and the underside is pretty rusty. Once I came to a full stop at an intersection the car started shaking like crazy. Only happened when fully stopped and in either drive or reverse. It was fine in park and neutral. When I got to where I was going, I looked underneath and saw something leaking under the engine. My partner says it smelled like coolant but I did not notice a smell. The coolant did appear low or empty though. I took it to a shop, who said the flex hose on the catalytic converter was broken as well as the passenger side engine mount. They said the engine mount was full of fluid but nothing was leaking by the time i got it to them (waited an hour for a tow truck because they recommended not driving it). They said the engine was overheating, a fan wasn't coming on, and they kept having to stop and let it cool down. Diagnosed a thermostat as being broken. However, that had failed earlier this year and was replaced... They said it appeared no work had been done and it was original. This got me suspicious. Heat in the car had worked that morning. I keep an eye on my oil temp, especially with something like this going on, and it stayed in the center the entire 20-30 minute drive after this incident. I believe them about the engine mount and flex hose but this part just feels off. They quoted $1128 + ~250 (i would order the catalytic converter myself) for all repairs, which is at least 50% of the car's current value.

Here's a rundown of what they quoted me: Catalytic converter assembly (ordered myself from a place of my choosing): $~150-250 Labor for catalytic converter: $360 Thermostat + housing: $175 Thermostat labor: $247 Engine mount: $135 Engine mount labor: $123 Antifreeze: up to $58 depending how much it takee

Is this reasonable? The shop has good reviews but the thermostat thing has me suspicious. I don't know that that would've broken due to gravel. I know the time is coming to replace this car, but it's a big decision and I want to make sure it's the right time.

How do I tell if my Focus has an old TCM or if it was replaced with the new design? Are the part numbers different?

Bought her a month ago for 7k cad, its at 50k kms and the paint looks clean, underbody is a bit rusted. Problem is many people said the kms might be backed down, i checked carfax but couldnt find any issues. Its a 2005 zx4 ses model

I have a mk1 focus with the FYDA 1.6 engine and 4F27E automatic 4-speed. It has been converted to LPG and recently had an exhaust job due to a massive leak.

My average fuel consumption over 300 km on a recent trip was 10.5 l/100km (22,5 mpg), which seems exceptionally high, even though that was recorded on LPG. Do you have similar consumption figures, or should I be looking for some sort of issue?

Currently driving a 2016 Focus SE automatic and at 96k. Curious to see what everyone else is at and how you’re holding up. I have the occasionally shudder when starting from a complete stop, but nothing crazy and most of the time nonexistent. Getting close to 100k I have just gotten my spark plugs replaced and have another maintenance appointment to check the engine belt and replace an engine mount (front passenger mount) due to some cabin vibrations at idle that aren’t too bad but better safe that sorry with the engine mounts. I did have the purge valve replaced at around 84k. I bought the car used in 2019 and its carfax shows clutch replacement under original warranty back with only 16k on it. What problems have you had besides regular maintenance? How long do you think yours will make it? I’m hoping for at least 150k.

My SE has a sunroof, heated seats, power seats, leather seats, auto dimming mirror and I just saw a Ford focus titanium without a sunroof. Does that mean my car is better than some titanium like what was the line other than the badge

Neighbors got a 07 focus he wants to sell for 3k. The car has 130k miles, and looks good outside and in for its age. 4 newish tires all around and recently got new brakes and suspension. I really rather pay 2500 tops and would be really happy paying 2k lol.

Is 3 to much? Should I stay away at that price no matter what? I’m also in Los Angeles so the used market runs more expensive out here. Lmk, any feedback would be appreciated.

i got a base model 2012 focus and want to replace the blue badges with all black badges i don’t want stickers or nothing i want to replace them if anyone knows where to get plsssss help a brutha out

I am trying to figure out why my horn isn’t working like when I honk it, it doesn’t do anything

I have a 2008 Ford focus that is leaking power steering fluid preventing me from passing safety inspection. For the past 2 years I have just filled the tank and the power steering will work fine for one week. Is it the filter inside the plastic reservoir for the power steering pump causing sounds. Possibly a cracked plastic reservoir. May this also be the rack and pinion leaking.I'm seeing some suggestions to stick a dye to trace down the leek. Has anyone any experience and insight with the power steering.

Hi Guys!

Look I know, 1.0 Ecoboost, I’ve heard it all. 45K on the clock serviced every 7K. Recently when pushing it in 5th and 6th to get to 70 sometimes I’ve been hit with an Amber spanner! Happened a few months back, minute I restarted the car it disappeared. When the Spanner comes on it goes into limp mode. No issues noticeable apart from when it goes in limp it’s slow (of course)

Saw many posts online saying people have dealt with this, got a message on my phone saying it’s relating to drive train, plugged it into the OBD the first time it happened and said “Low boost” wondered if it was many the Vacuum Valve?

To mention, this spanner sometimes only comes on if I push the car, wondering if it’s a software glitch, crappy fuel? Any ideas would be appreciated. Car goes back in August, if I can fix it great!

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm trying to help a friend who is having issues with their 2013 Ford Focus Titanium.

All of a sudden, dash is lit up like a christmas tree. Power steering, speedometer, hill start assist, ABS, and more don't work, and the transmission feels like it sometimes can't figure out when to shift. None of these issues were present before, it seems to have happened "all at once".

Battery and alternator both tested good using a load tester at the auto store, although there was a large amount of corrosion on the positive terminal. I have Forscan and scanned for codes (summary below). I spun each wheel individually and did get a reading from all four wheel speed sensors, although this doesn't prove anything if the connection is intermittent.

Any help or advice would be extremely appreciated at this point.

Below are all the codes unique to this situation (DTCs cleared, driven 5mins, then read):

Code: U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module 'A'
Code: P193E - A/C Clutch Request Signal
Code: U1013 - Invalid Internal Control Module Monitoring Data Received from TCM
Code: U0151 - Lost Communication With Restraints Control Module
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U0151 - Lost Communication With Restraints Control Module
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U3003 - Battery Voltage
Code: U0126 - Lost Communication With Steering Angle Sensor Module
Code: U0101 - Lost Communication with TCM
Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A
Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module
Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM A
Code: B00A0 - Occupant Classification System
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A
Code: U0101 - Lost Communication with TCM
Code: U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module 'A'
Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module
Code: U0402 - Invalid Data Received from TCM
Code: U0415 - Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module 'A'
Code: U0422 - Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module
Code: U3000 - Control Module
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module
Code: U3000 - Control Module
Code: U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Code: U0009 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus (-) shorted to Bus (+)
Code: U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module 'A'
Code: U0131 - Lost Communication With Power Steering Control Module 'A'
Code: U0151 - Lost Communication With Restraints Control Module
Code: B1372 - Left Rear Door Handle Unlock Circuit
Code: U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module 'A'
Code: U0422 - Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module

Here's a link to the full Forscan DCT log, as it's far too long to post.

Thank you in advance!

Noticed there that my 2014 Mk3 1.6 diesel has started leak from the driver side underneath the fog lights that’s the only area I can see no other wetness anywhere else checked the oil no mixture reservoir isn’t showing cracks not wet underneath it Anyone know what it could be please

I know it’s the transmission.. but is it the clutch struggling to move?? Did the clutch get stuck??? Why does it stutter?? Or is the stuttering just programmed into the transmission as a faulty design issue???

I had my 2010 Ford focus hooked up to a diagnostic machine and it told me that what was wrong with the heat was my actuator, so I changed it. I am still not getting any heat. What could be the issue if it wasn't the actuator?

Hi guys

My transmissions giving out. Check engine light is on. Gets shift like crap. Delays in acceleration. Jerks in acceleration. Car wouldn’t start in park but it started on neutral. Code P07a3 is on.

I already tried opening up the actuator A and rotating whatever thing in there and degreased it and wd-40 it.

It was definitely very rough rotating.

Right after, the drive was so smooth.

But the next morning, the issues came right back.

I may try changing the actuator. And see if that resolves the issues.

But it does feel like because the rotation was not smooth at all, it’s an issue with clutch and fork.

I felt like because it’s a recalled item, under lemon law or whatever settlement, I can get a free fix.

Does anyone know?