For some context I bought my Escape earlier this year and it's always had an oil leak. However the leak is progressing and so I decided to get it checked out. When I brought it in to a mechanic to see where the leak was coming from and get a quote on fixing it - they came back after cleaning the oil off the bottom of the vehicle and told me that it's coming out of essentially every gasket a bit. They didn't bother to give me an actual figure at this time as they told me that the cost to pull the engine and replace all the seals would be roughly near the same to do an engine swap all together (minus the cost of a new engine). They recommended that if I'm inclined mechanically that it would be better if I got an engine hoist from Harbor Freight and did it myself to save money but it would take quite a bit of time to do on my own. Alternative to that was to keep topping it off and driving it until it dies.. As someone who wants to fix the issue I'm planning on getting some quotes to figure out what that cost is actually and trying to decide if it is worth the efforts. What are your thoughts?

I've been looking around and have read that a tune could possibly prolong the life of the transmission in these Escapes. It's the wife's daily so I'm not looking to really do any other mods other than a flash, unless something improves reliability.

I've seen Livernois, Unleashed, and Racechip during my googling. Not looking to break the bank, just want a simple 87 tune, with the trans tuned as well. Suggestions?

I had my mom's 2017 Ford Escape over a weekend to do some maintenance on it. I noticed an odd issue with the climate control, it seemed to not always remember the AC settings. Sometimes when I turned the vehicle on the AC would turn on to the last settings I had it. Sometimes it would turn on with the fan but the AC would be off. On occasion when I turned on the car the AC and fan would be off completely until I turned them on. Otherwise I don't notice any issues with the vehicle, electrical or otherwise. Anyone know why this happens?

I've been looking at varies used suv's lately hoping to find a reliable SUV with good highway mpg. It seems like most people I talk to say that the Ford Escapes are generally reliable yet when I look only they seem to have a lot of problems. What been your experience? Would you get another or find something else?

(I have a 2016 Escape, just brought it in and the battery was charged to 80% and no codes showed up when they hooked it up.)

When I’m driving, not on a hill, the hill assist light will randomly go on.

The Sync will drop my phone randomly and then immediately connect to it again.

When I start it, occasionally all of the dash lights go on but the car doesn’t start. I turn the key back and then try it again and it starts up just fine.

All of these things have been going on for just the last few days. I’m wondering if I should bring it to a dealership and if anyone else has dealt with something similar. It’s driving fine otherwise.

It's been a roller coaster with my 2014 Escape Titanium, which I bought two months ago.

Within a day of buying it, had an issue with the rear door opening by itself. We removed the fuse for the foot swipe sensor and that appeared to have fixed that problem.

A month later -- about two weeks ago -- the car alarm started going off randomly. I think it was the rear door anti-theft sensor getting triggered, because at the same time the rear door stopped opening when I used the key fob button for it. It would try to open but seemed to get stuck. I could open it manually, but not remotely. I figured out how to lock the car without arming the alarm, and haven't had the alarm problem in two weeks. I tabled the rear door sensor issue to be dealt with later.

Now tonight the weirdest thing happened. I had the car parked outside a cafe and was sitting on the covered patio on the other side of the building. It was raining heavily, pouring. I heard a car alarm go off and peeked around the corner, and not only was it my car alarm once again going off, but the rear door was opening and closing by itself, which apparently triggered the alarm. WTF? Is my car haunted?

I have a 2016 ford escape 2.0 eco boost with almost 122,000 miles. It’s leaking oil (about a couple tablespoons a day) just got a quote that I need to replace my rear main seal and a turbo repair totaling $4,000.00. I’m not sure if it is worth fixing and how many more miles I would get out if it. I bought it in 2018 with 18,000 miles on it. It has been in 1 major accidents (I was t-boned and got everything repaired) and 2 minor accidents (one was in a blizzard I went off the side of the road had to replace an axel second was not paying attention and rear-ended someone going 10-15 mph and their hitch went into my head light that I replaced). About 3-4 years ago I had to fully replace my turbo (under warranty). From my understanding it’s only worth about $4-5k since there is some minor hood and bumper damage along with the speakers needing to be replaced (sounds like Charlie Brown characters). I regularly do oil changes but haven’t maintained other fluids as good as I probably should. Do I put the $4k into it and get it fixed? How longer will it last me? Or do I neglect to do the repairs and just let it slowly die. It is paid off. Thanks you in advance for your help.

where does everyone get their routine maintenance done? the ford dealership? franchises? or locally (small business)?

I don’t know much about cars and I know even less about electronics in cars but when I first bought my car the bluetooth and usb port worked perfect but i’ve jumped my car a couple times and now things like the usb port, aux, phone button, menu, don’t work how they used to. Wondering if anyone knew anything about this and how to fix it? Thanks

TLDR: if there are flakes in transmission fluid, will a drain and fill (not flush) damage?

Hi all, I have a question about what you’d recommend for a next step.

I bought this vehicle in early 24 after researching vehicles, and this one specifically because of the preventative maintenance done on it. When I purchased about 40,000 miles ago, I made sure there was a “transmission drain and fill” done. They let me know it was fine, no bad signs.

Since everyone here recommends fluid change every 30k or so, I went to get one done and the shop told me that they saw metal flakes in the fluid, and decided to refuse service. I totally understand liability of it, but didn’t give me a straight answer when I asked “is it better to wait for it to die, or to add fluid”

Is there harm to drain and fill myself? I’m aware that flush is damaging especially since there’s flakes, but even if a drain and fill can prolong a bit, I would rather just change it before I have to replace a transmission.

I have about 98k miles on this thing. It’s pretty much operating as expected with not operational issues that I am aware of. There is one thing I want to try and chase down and I want some tips on where I should start first.

When slowing down, I often get a single clunk that seemingly comes from the passenger rear side. Usually it happens like as I’m decreasing in speed passing ~10mph or so, and not every time - but almost every time getting into my driveway which is a right-hand turn into it. It’s always when I am braking, but I am not sure if the noise is coming from braking or not. I had the rear looked at for anything loose a few months back and they replaced some linkages back there, but said everything else was tight.

I know this is incredibly vague but I’m just looking at basic ideas of common things that I should look at and will likely have whatever fix (if more complex than a basic brake job) done by a mechanic shop.

Our 2013 escape does not have a backup cam. Has anyone added one, whether a cheap license plate one, or added an OEM Ford style where it integrates with the radio or rearview mirror?

Im driving a while back. Just happen that my a/c just turned on by it self my left hand is in the stearing wheel my right hand was in the arm rest my right foot was pressing the break because im approaching red light. Im very sure its not normal or paranormal any possible reason?

Need some advice on what to do next, really having a hard time deciding what to do.

I have been having coolant loss on my Escape for the past little while now. No codes, No misfires, No white smoke, yet. However it is going down in the reservoir and likes to stay right around a few notches below the Min Line, before I fill it up.

I had a mechanic take a look (Not dealership) and he told me he could not find any external leaks and he believes it is internal as in leaking into engine somehow or transmission etc.

Car has 199,513ish kms, about 121k miles or so.

1. Should I sell it while it still doesn’t have any drivability problems?

2. Should I get a second opinion? The mechanic did not run a pressure test, he spent about 2 hours examining the rad, hoses, water pump etc and couldn’t find any leaks. Could take it to a dealership but then I’m just down $200 or so for them to tell me what I’m worried I already know.

Could use some advice, I haven’t heard about many 2.0 Escapes prior to 2017 having coolant intrusion but I am worried that this is the case.

Looking for owners of the same car that I have. How many of you have actually experienced the engine and the transmission problems? If you have experience a problem, which one was it, and what was the remedy and price?

Have some nice tints on all windows and love it. At 30k miles. Anyone know how many miles the car usually lasts? 100? 150? 200? I have little knowledge with Ford’s life longevity of vehicles.

I'm a professional mechanic, wouldn't go calling myself a Master Mechanic just yet but time will get me there, I have replaced the brake booster, and the vacuum pump (twice) I want to replace the vacuum pump again because my boss keeps buying CRAPA (Napa) parts, but he won't get another one because "It's creating vacuum so why would we replace it?" (Really fuckin hard to deal with him sometimes, mostly because he is probably aware of the gap in our knowledge, mine far exceeding his, especially with turbos and superchargers. I'm only pulling -9 psi (inches? again, boss's argument that you can't have negative psi) of vacuum from the pump at the main port, I feel like there should be more vacuum than -9 psi.
My question is this,

I have replaced the vacuum pump, and brake booster and still have a stiff brake pedal after 2-3 pumps at idle or whilst driving. Anyone out there have this issue? If so, what ended up resolving the issue of the stiff brake pedal? I did some reading on ProDemand that a relay controls the vacuum pump's pressure via the sensor on the booster, which I doubt seeing as this pump is driven by the camshaft and is 100% mechanical, and runs straight to the booster, but there is an extra tit on the pump that goes to a distribution valve, for the wastegate/bypass valve I would assume. What if this is faulty? It has a connector going to it, my diagnostic tools don't allow me to read the pressure of the brake booster, since we're a "Snap-On or nothing" shop, we don't have Autel or any other scanners/diagnostic equipment.

Looking to upgrade my 2017 Ford Escape to have Carplay. Anyone have experience with this? https://intelligent1tech.com/products/2016-2017-2018-ford-escape-4-sync1-to-8-sync3-upgrade-conversion-carplay?rq=mk_ford~md_escape~yr_2017&variant=43236328603888

Would this be better than going crutchfield route? Pros and Cons?

For a few weeks now I've been getting a System shut down alert that comes and goes. I drive approx. 30 km 4 days a week and only 5-10 km the rest of the week.

Bought the vehicle 2 years ago. I have no dimming lights or any other signs the battery is low.

Ford recommended taking it for a long drive, so I drove about 100km today to visit family. When I got home I sat in the vehicle for a few and the error came up again.

This is my first vehicle bought used 2 years ago. The mechanical part of taking everything out to access the battery is doable for me but I know jack about battery replacement and have no one around to help me. At the risk of being seriously hurt I will eventually try to get into a shop to replace it. The cost of the battery alone is around $300 where I live and I'm assuming the manual labor will be similar.

First, What are the chances my battery needs replacement and if so how much would it cost a shop to do it?

How do I see my temp gauge on the dash? Would be nice to be able to see if car temp is good or not. Just got this used.

I got a p1450 code evap code, I replaced the purge valve in the engine bay and the one on the canister, as well as jammed the white gas can plug in and out of the filler door. Drove it about a week and now I’m getting p0442 system leak detected. I’m gonna go through and check all my connections this weekend, but wanted to see Any one suggestions had suggestions where to start?

Just bought a “new” 2021 Ford Escape S as an upgrade to my 2011 Ford Escape as it needs too many repairs compared to its own value. One of my first problems I have come across is that when connecting to the new cars speakers, whether through Bluetooth or wired, there is a massive delay of like 1-2 seconds in the audio. This makes it nigh impossible to enjoy any sort of video or gaming with the cars speakers and it even causes some problems with just audio when driving. Like the seconds between songs gets lost. As I am living in my car, chilling and watching videos or playing games with my cars speakers has always been something I’ve done, and it has never had this problem in my decade old car. Why after ten years of “innovation” is my experience worse? Also the radio automatically turns on when I start the car and seemingly there is no way to prevent this. There are other threads for the radio problem and they say you have to have external mods to fix this, what is this, a steam game? I shouldn’t have to mod my car to prevent the radio from turning on. Any help much appreciated, thank you.