i just bought the CQuartz 3.0 UK ceramic coating, and upon arrival i checked the sticker and it said it was made in 5/7/2023, a little less than a year ago. Is this too long, or is it still good? not sure if it expires or degrades over time. it’s still new tho.

Hello, I am fairly new to auto detailing, with only a few years of DIY experience learned from YouTube. I've only ever owned older vehicles with decent interiors, but the exteriors were not good at all. I purchased a 2024 KIA Forte GT earlier this week and finally have the ability to do proper detailing.

I would like to simplify my exterior washing routine:

Current Routine:

1.) Garden hose with a sprayer for a water pre-soak without any chemical pre-soak

2.) Tire/wheel cleaner with tire and wheel brushes (clean tires and wheels)

3.) 2 bucket method with a wash, wax, soap, and noodle mitt

4.) Rinse the car with a sprayer

5.) Spray wax

6.) Final rinse

7.) Dry the car and dry the wheels with separate dedicated towels.

8.) Opt. Detail spray with extra drying for hard water spots

9.) Tire dressing

Current products I am using are a mix of chemical guys, meguiar's

I have already done a base wax coating and also clay barred the car. There wasn't that much contamination in the factory paint or glass, but it definitely helped. Below are photos of my car and photos of my water beads and products.

Main questions:

1.) Wash routine: What's the best, most efficient method? (Should I get a foam gun for my garden hose or invest in a pressure washer and foam cannon?)

2.) What is the best solution for water spots after drying? currently using detail spray, but I heard vinegar works too.

3.) Maintaining washes through the week with detail spray or rinse-less wash solutions? I am currently doing weekly washes, but I see people doing rinse-less washes between deep clean washes.

4.) Paste wax vs. spray wet wax? The meguiar's wash, wax, and ceramic spray have gotten me nice beading so far.

Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/prd27t2aoxwc1.jpg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8d000c07cb502918ef14c83bf29f99cef264718

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https://preview.redd.it/izyn8r2aoxwc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c353b674b235ecefb9979126869530fa7b8a9494

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Debating between the MJJC SV3 and the Griot's The Boss. Already have the Active 2.0, Uberflex 50' hose, and the MTM Hydro SGS28 stubby. I am just a weekend warrior taking car of my own cars. Any guidance? I have the one that came with the Active 2.0 but it is really watery. I assume it at least needs a 1.1 tip.

So I got a new puppy and on my way to get her nails clipped this happened. I am pretty bummed because I love my vehicle (Jeep Wrangler) and I try to keep it clean & scratch free. I asked a friend who details cars and they suggested a leather conditioner so I stopped by Advanced Auto & picked up some Mother’s VLR spray (it was on sale & I didn’t know what else would be better).

How would you go about cleaning this to make it look brand new again? And did I choose a correct product or should I get something else? Open to any advice!

Hey guys, so I've cleaned a bunch of cars, and some of the carpet is easy, while some is harder. But the carpet in my mom's car is the absolute worst. Every hair sticks to it, dirt stays embedded, and no matter how much I vacuum, there's still debris left. Because of this, I've stopped cleaning it and it's gotten really bad. I need to conquer this mess. Any tips or tricks you've learned to help get this sort of carpet clean? Thanks in advance.

I've been using this for years and really enjoy it, but I get bored and want to try new things and at the moment, my bottle of Opti-Seal is about to be empty. If you have used Opti-Seal, and enjoy this type of product, can you recommend something similar that you are using for your spray on sealant.

I dove into the detailing world and found myself with stuff like Griots 3 in 1, various car soaps and rinseless washing... is it worth it at this point to get it professionally done vs doing it myself?

My only apprehension is that since I can only do outside parking (have to deal with a LOT of berries and bird poop), I'm thinking maybe the professionally done one will be stronger?

If this is a technique discussion and not a question, let me know and I'll chat the flair.

Hey guys, long time lurker who has done the basics and now trying to do a little more. As the title says I have (2 cars) that have gone since last fall without really exterior cleaning/detailing. Water spots, bug dropping I sound have taken care of, probably some residue from New Jersey winer (and the insistance on salting roads here).

After lurking and watching a bunch of YouTubers I've seen recommended in here in trying to put together a "protocol" (I'm a nerdy scientist and like to fully plan things out). Also, I'm just referring to paint here, I think I've guy a decent method for glass

The products I'm thinking of ordering are basically based on watching YouTube videos and finding a single website (Rag guys) that sells everything i need. Though not opposed to ordering from multiple sites, just hoping to save on shipping.

1. Spray on W9 water spot remover.

Wait a few minutes. Maybe scrub with Jersey bug remover... Thoughts? Side note: Are the bugs so bad here in NJ that companies designed/named a bug scrubber after our state?! ...anywho...

I also thought about separately/additionally using W8 bug remover but it seems like it basically does the same thing as the water spot remover....or and I wrong?

Side note: I obviously am no expert but if you think they are the exact same product or very similar let me know and I'll test them in the lab. I've also debated just making my own acid cleaner (and some other things) since I have the resources (a biotech company with large lab, lots of equipment and lots of extremely high quality chemicals) and could make a highly purified and extremely high quality version.... But I think that's a discussion for a different day. However, if any of you experts/pros have ever wanted to make any custom products we should talk.

2. Rinse, foam, and 3 bucket wash method.

3. Clay scrubber with clay lubricant. I've only used clay bars and mits before but YouTube detailers seem to like these, particularly that they are easy to rise the debris out

4. Rehab correction cream with wool pad out of direct sunlight via my crappy random orbital DA. Wait 30 min.

Wipe with microfiber small towel (does it matter what kind?) damp from ONR no rinse

I Originally planned on using Uno Protect based on the "uno protect all in one + bead maker" type videos referenced on here a few times but Rehab correction seems to be a better/newer approach (or am I way off here?).

5. Spray on bead maker and immediately wipe off with (dry?) small microfiber towel

It sounds like some of you guys aren't fans of bead maker but I can't tell if you don't like the product or just don't like that they claim it seals. Is there something you think I should use instead?

Finally: In the past I've just done wash and clay (and occasionally wax or Nu Finish), so I guess steps 1, 4, and 5 are my real questions/concerns. Also at this point I'm not trying to be at the level of you professional/expert detailers, just trying to step up my game. Although I hope to get to that level at some point. However, the moral being I realize some of the badasses on here will probably never like any product that is a 3 in 1 type product and I also realize that in most, if not all, industries "all in one" products are not as good using multiple different individual products separately... But unless you think if one of these (like Rehab) will do "decent" or "pretty good" I'm okay with that for now.

Sorry for the longish post.

TLDR; How do I go from basic wash and clay to a slightly better method for a car with a seasons worth of hard-ish water, bugs, and other junk?

How much should I tip for getting my car detailed? To the best of my knowledge, the people I got quotes from are all solo detailers running their own business so the full detail price goes to them. Not sure if any tip is required and if so, should it be a fairly set dollar amount or a percentage of the total? If the total is high, which I expect, the tip starts to get pretty large very quickly. Any advice appreciated!

Good day everyone. Before I get started, I want to say thanks in advance for the help.

When I purchased my car 6 months ago I asked the dealership to not install any decals or dealership paraphernalia onto my car. They agreed. I showed up to pick the car up and lo and behold the “decal”was there. I confronted them about it and was told they could “scrape it off” with a plastic tool if I brought the car back ack at a later date.

Fast forward a bit. My plans were to PPF the car and ceramic coat the vehicle. I spoke to my local detailer and he said it wouldn’t be a problem and he could remove it. I agreed. Sounded better than the dealer “scraping it off”.

I take my car to the detailing shop and they install the PPF and ceramic coating. I go to pick the car up and I’m told, “yeah, I tried but it’s not coming off”.

Next routine maintenance wash I planned to remove it myself. Heatgun, plastic razor blade and call it a day. That did not work. 50/50 IPA on a MF towel held on a letter for 1 minute, did not work. My next step is a 3m wheel but this has me super nervous.

Does anybody have any suggestions before going to the wheel?

This badge has a bonded metal like structure. It’s not your ordinary vinyl stick or metal badge/emblem.

Thanks again for your help!

Hi, my name is Idiot. We've all been there - doing a project when you realize something too late and the damage has been done. That something too late for me was not taping around the headlight before sanding. So, now I have a nice swirly pattern on my bumper right below the headlight. It appears to just be the clearcoat, and not deeper than that. I bought some Turtle Wax Scratch X and it helped a little, but the swirls are definitely still noticeable.

My question is this: is there an easy fix for this? Clay bars? Other compounds? Or am I taking it to a detailing shop for a professional to fix?

So I always see how brush mops are bad for your paint. But how do you guys wash large SUV and trucks? I tried one of the microfiber mitt on a mop handle but they don't do very good since they're flat. The brush mop gets in all the nooks and crannies a lot easier. Thanks

Hello. I am working on starting a new detailing business in Homestead, FL.

**I won't be doing any paint correction for now, so no need for DA Polisher, pads, compound, polish, etc...

Could you guys help me out a little?

So far I have the following products/equipment:

Gallon Products:
- Adam's car shampoo
- Adam's wheel and tire cleaner
- P&S interior cleaner
- P&S Carpet Bomber
- P&S Terminator

Smaller Bottles: (had most of them already) What are your favorite/economical replacements for these?
- ONR (for clay lube, door jambs, I don't wanna do rinseless washes for now)
- Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover
- Griot's Speed Shine (will replace for a gallon of Quick Detailer/Wax later)
- Griot's 3 in 1, (for Full Details, open to recommendations.)
- IronX
- Chemical Guys VRP
- Chemical Guys Glass Cleaner (will get Invisible Glass when it runs out)
- Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner (small bundle)
- Chemical Guys New Car Smell

Brushes:
- Wheels/Tire/Lug nuts/Wheel Woolies/Carpet/Lilly Brush/Drill Brushes/Scrub Ninja

Equipment:
- Shopvac
- Bissel Little Green Pro Extractor
- Wagner C900054 Steamer
- Ryobi 1800 Pressure Washer
- Small Makita Blower (for the dashboards/dust on Piano black, etc...)

Extras:
- 50ft Hose
- 50th Pressure Washer Hose
- 50th Power Cord
- Foam Cannon
- Wash Mitts
- 3 Buckets/1 Grit Guard
- Clay Bars (had some already, will get a clay towel when these run out)
- Pump Spayer for Carpet Bomber Diluted
- Aplicator for VRP
- Different Towels/Drying included.

What am I missing? Besides my own water/power/air compressor.

Also, sorry for saturating the detailing business even more/also happened to me with my main job/business.

Hi,

I have the leather seats in the attached photo in my Infiniti.

The seats are heated and cooled, and have perforations. The air comes through the perforations.

I got the Meguiar's Leather care kit, which instructs to either spray onto leather directly, or onto a clean towel and work into leather.

Will spraying it onto a towel and applying it onto the seat have any issues? My concern is the cleaner getting into the perforations, and affecting the heating / cooling function?

Appreciate any advice.

Hey guys, so this is my girlfriend’s car. I have a beloved new Mustang GT that I feel I’m constantly dodging landscapers with and it’s beginning to get futile. I park it for an hour at a store come out and it’s trashed by commercial landscapers. At my own house, my landscapers I pay, only let me know half the time when they show up and since they don’t show up set scheduled days I have to basically just listen and pray I hear their truck pull up before they hop out and fire up the weedwacker. This morning, on my freshly washed Mustang 5.0, my own landscapers didn’t ring the bell and notify me before cutting and left it looking like this.

TLDR: What’s the best way to clean dried grass off your car without taking two hours to two bucket wash it? Obviously I don’t want to scratch my paint and once the damp grass dries it hard getting off. Thanks!

Noticed these white spots and rust spots, both seem superficial, on my motorcycle’s muffler. Tried removing with soap and water with no success. Muffler is powder coated. Any tips of removing this?

Not in auto detailing biz, have experience in personal detailing, have garage, enjoy working on cars.

In my market and my vehicle, a professionally done ceramic coating with a lower tier product like C-Quartz runs $1,500 USD. For 2 layers. If this lasts 4 years and I plan on keeping vehicle for 12 years, I would have to get this done 3 times (4yrs x 3 = 12yrs). That will be about $4,500.

Quite a bit of money, especially consider the car is only valued at $50,000. I might consider this, but would something like a Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray done multiple times a year yield similar protection? I am aware that Ceramic Sprays don't last long, but do they offer somewhat of equal protection?

Anyone else went through this thought?

Hey everyone,

I’ve got full STEK DynoShield PPF on my car and I’m exploring options for maintenance products. I’m considering either Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Gyeon PPF Maintain. My goal is not only to maintain the PPF but also to enhance the slickness and gloss of the finish.

Has anyone here used these products on a similar PPF? Are they similar enough to be used interchangeably, or would they work well in combination? Would PPF maintain add slickness and gloss on its own (I didn’t see this written on the product description)?

Any insights or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Have a client that has dealing with bed bugs at home for some time, wants to get his car detailed. Im thinking it's likely there is some bed bug activity in the vehicle. The job is just a full cleaning detail, there is no promise or even going to be an attempt to do any kind of pest control although I promised a steam clean. However i''m more so concerned about bringing them back with me inside something...like say my vaccum filter or extractor. Would this something your willing to do? How can I take necessary precautions? Advice appreciated.