/r/Warhammer
A hub for all things Warhammer 40,000, Age of Sigmar, and more! All facets of the hobby are welcome. Check out the directory below for even more awesome Warhammer Communities.
A center for all things Warhammer 40,000, Age of Sigmar, and more! All facets of the hobby are welcome. Check out the directory below for even more awesome Warhammer Communities.
Looking for more of a certain thing? We've got you covered. Check out one of our awesome sibling subreddits; they've got one for everything!
We've hosted a great deal of AMAs featuring Black Library Authors, Games Workshop Game Designers, Warhammer Youtubers, and more! We've created a list to keep them all in one place, check them out!
/r/Warhammer
I recently got a hammerfall bunker and can't find anything in the rules on how to place it or any fortifications I have learnt from other people at my local store that 9th edition had rules for placement but there aren't any now so do I need to place it in my deployment zone or is it just not usable
Hello, I'm a beginner and recently got into warhammer, I'm really interested in the lore and stuff. As far as I know there are more than 400 novels. How do I start reading and can someone give me some recommendations on the best ones and how to get them in India. Thank you
Just a casual player with friends but we try to follow tournament style rules and layouts for terrain because the table has such a dramatic effect on terrain and it gives it a semblance of objectivity and fairness. Basically I'm about to make a fresh batch of ruins for my table and wanted to know what the best design/guidlines were to follow to make the most playable/fair/fun terrain.
In my mind this boils down to 3 main queries:
Do I make ground floors physically opaque or with windows/doors?
How tall are floors on buildings? 3", 4", 5"?
Do I make sections with shorter walls (2" or less)?
I feel like my playgroup have never perfectly understood the intricacies of ruins rules, and we've flip-flopped between playing with first floors opaque and open, which has such a dramatic difference on how the game plays for melee vs ranged units. I've seen discussion around on how people are coming round to playing with first floor windows open, and I was wondering if maybe the perfect balance is to build the ruins 50/50 physically open and closed ruins, some walls definitely opaque and others with big windows so it can be played true LOS. Another factor is that I play a lot of big bugs nids, and whilst I don't want to advantage myself, having ruins with base sizes and wall designs that don't cause my units to just go nowhere or tangle their overhanging claws in everything would be good. Basically looking for some advice or templates that people would consider balanced and easy to use, and stop me from having to have a 10 minutes discussion pre-game with my friends about how ruins work for today.
Bonus question: When playing with artificially opaque ground floors, do tall things that stand in those ground floors and poke up to second storey windows (e.g. deathleaper claws, tyrannofex vents) count as out of line of sight?
I'm trying to sculpt/ play with green stuff and I find my model keeps falling under the weight of itself and the shape I'm trying to leave it in keeps warping
Any advice on how to counter this? Should I wait an ex. amount of time for it to cure before playing with it? Any tips and c&c is useful, cheers
Praise the Emporer brothers! I unironically play Chaos Space Marines (Black Legion) which I very much love. But I want to start a second army here soon and I wanted some opinions on the 4 listed armies in the caption. I very much love how strong my units are in melee, but I want a more ranged focused army with a few melee units in the mix (like a 70/30 ranged to melee balanced army). Personally the Salamanders are my favorite chapter in lore, Black templars look the coolest, Blueberries are blue and thats my favorite color, and then Imperial Fists are just a based option. Does anyone have thoughts on these armies to help me with my decision?
a few sidenotes
- I wanna buy a few dreadnoughts
-I very much plan to buy tanks as well (destructor or Annihilator)
-With my CSM army I like to run 50% big units, and the other 50% is infantry or battleline
-Painting is my favorite hobby so no matter what chapter I decide ill love the painting aspect
I'm repainting and wondering whether I need to strip or if I can prime over. It's got a pretty heavy coat of gloss varnish. What would I use to strip?
So, The idea I have here is trying to recreate the Rotting Promethean from Total War Warhammer, I’ve seen a video by Pete the Wargamer where he makes the bigger Rotting Leviathan so I want to make something similar just smaller, so I’m just hoping anyone has some advice on the best GW parts or kits to use to achieve this, any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is probably an old and well debated topic, but as I’m reading through the Siege of Terra books for the first time here in 2024-2025… figured I’d ask.
Did anyone else notice a super odd and immediate change in Primarch dialogue in Book 4?
Suddenly Dorn is having very in depth conversations with Snidderman. Talking about his fears. The Khan telling human generals he “doesn’t give a shit?”
Seems like a very rapid and out of place departure from the stoic nature of Dorm and the reserved/intellectual commentary of the Khan.
Just caught me very off guard!
Hello again!!!
I took a lot of the advice I received and tried to implement to the best of my ability. I’m hoping to get better as I paint more, but you guys are awesome and I appreciated the advice a lot. I’m going to continue to watch others paint, your posts here, and other techniques to try and learn more.
Thank you again!!! (Also please send more critique! I want to get better!)
I am unable to add anything to my cart or even checkout. Is anyone else experiencing this or is this on my end? Thanks!
Hi! I may be able to get my hands on a brand new unopened box of this game. What it's the range price usually? I'm having a hard time to find it and wanted to know if I'm not paying too much for it. (220 u$)