Hey everyone,

I’m a complete beginner to project cars, so I apologize if this is a weird question, but I’d really appreciate your advice.

I’m planning to start my first project car with a cheap Honda Civic from the ’92-’00 range. After doing some research, I’ve been leaning towards using a K20A engine from an ‘07 Civic Si, as it seems like a solid and recommended choice. However, I’ve noticed that complete Civic Si cars from ’07 in my area are listed for a bit more than I wanna spend (most are priced around $6,500+ or are only available as part-out options).

This got me thinking: since I found K20A engines for around $1,200 (which feels reasonable to me idk), why not start by buying the engine and building it first? This way, I could spend some time learning and tinkering with the engine in my garage while I search for the right Civic body. When I eventually find the body I want, I’d already have a built engine, that I want! ready to drop in for the most part. I haven’t done all the math yet, but I feel like it could be cheaper, if done right, kind of like building a PC rather than buying a prebuilt if you get what I’m putting down.

Does this sound like a smart plan for a first-timer? Also would this sort of setup make other performance (power increasing) mods easier for a beginner like me? It is garage season after all lol.

I hope this wasn’t too confusing or nonsensical. I’d love to hear any of y’all’s thoughts or advice on how I should approach this project, literally anything cuz I am a complete beginner. Thanks in advance for the help!

https://open.substack.com/pub/curlywrench/p/2-its-just-getting-worse?r=4a5zvj&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web&showWelcomeOnShare=true

For context: I want to start building my car next year, ik how I want it and everything but I just want to expand my knowledge of cars as a whole I feel like I know more than the average person but I want to learn more in depth things in my down time

It was in a bag and the bag had only been open for 6 months (so the guy said) I spun it by hand and I don’t see any rust on cam lobes or anything like that.

Sorry for the crappy

Took my Thunderbird for a cruise and it backfired when I restarted it and blew my muffler out completely

Finally got it bought and up on the lift. This thing is cleaner underneath than my 2011 pickup. Changing oil now. Going to prime the oil system and crank the motor over by hand. I hope to hear it run today. Numbers on the block make it a 428 we think out of like a grand prix possibly. Heads are 455 HO. Should be a well set up motor according to the forums. I should've gotten in to drugs instead of old cars...

Hello! So a while back I started rust fixing my car and swapping out some parts etc. the car is now almost fully disassembled expect for the engine. But underneath the car there is nothing but rusty metal.

So I’ve been looking around online for the best way to tackle it. I have started sanding down the rust and a lot of bare metal is showing up. But some rust is too deep to sand down, so the process I’m doing is.

Sanding down, then washing the under carriage and making sure it’s all dry and good. Then spraying on rust converter, after washing that out I’ll use an epoxy primer and then some rubber underbody sealer. Is there anything missing from this or something I should do differently?

I know I won’t get all of the rust out but I’d be happy if I can at least stop it from spreading/slowing it down greatly until some day where I can chemical dip it😄

Looking to put in a parts order on monday and was wondering if anyone knows of any promo codes or anything to go along with the parts order. Do they also run cyber monday deals too?

Ive decided I want to rebuild my all original 350 Rocket out of my 1970 Olds Cutlass. I want to freshen it up, and throw a new cam in, so nothing to major. I figured I’d have a shop bore it 30 over, have the block decked, get the original heads rebuilt, and surfaced.

-How much could I expect to pay to have this work done?

-Do I need to do anything to the crank?

-Should I port the heads?

-Would the machine shop tell me what size pistons I’d need to buy or what my Cam options would be?

-What else should I know?

I’m in the Louisville, Kentucky area if you know of any good machine shops you’d recommend

I was told that the brakes are stuck together, but when I went underneath it the break lines look good, thing it’s just the drums that are stuck (I haven’t even taken the wheels and tires off to see what’s what). Do I need to replace the hubs and brakes? Or is it an easy fix to get these working again? I don’t need amazing breaks right now I just want to move it.

Im sick - so l cant do anything with my hands

My project is on stands

Interior almost completely stripped [Pedal box(stuck on a bolt) +Drivers seat(stuck on a bolt) left]

Engine is planned to go away - I emptied most of the engine bay ,just need to assemble engine crane (to which l didn't receive any god damn manual [Online manuals arent updated]

After that under body components like arms and links , drive line ,diff and other bs

But the conflict begins in what to try repairing first [Bodywork]

a) Inner Rocker panel (driver) - Rusted through

b) Floor panel -Rusted through - the biggest dmg(driver) is on foot rest under pedal assembly ,the passenger area has rusted through areas -but its ok ish ?

c) Then theres Frame rails - they are fine ,but on the drivers side - theres like 10 cm area of pure ´´Fucked´´ , i had to move jacks a bit to center because of it

So What do l do ? after (1)

What should l prioritize so my project wont get fucked in process or at least minimize the chances of getting it fucked even more then it arrived

I have a 2008 WRX with a bad EJ255. I want to do this swap- car is completely stock, I just want it to run and drive again. I’ve seen videos with the necessary swap components (intake manifold etc); I know a tune would be recommended, but I live in the middle of nowhere without tuning resources. I just want to know if it’s a safe swap to do sans tuning, so I can get my car back up and running.