Hello, I am looking for advice on how to go about finding an apprenticeship. I'm 19 and have minimal experience. I've looked online and around my area (SE FL) and have trouble finding non experienced positions. My uncle is a Diesel tech and suggested finding an apprenticeship over going to college or trade school first. My cousin is also a diesel tech and suggested the same thing.

Just here looking for general advice and opinions. Thanks for your time.

I’ve had a bottle if used 25% of sitting in my bed for maybe a year(last winter) and was wondering if I could use the rest of the bottle or should I just get a new One?

I gotta bitch about how wildly I got bent over by strap on real quick

Bought a 3/8ths dual trigger impact from snap on year and a half ago

Month after I bought it, I switched jobs

3 months after I bought it, it started a intermittent issue where it wouldn’t work for a few days at a time, then start working again, so I informed the guy I bought it from because my new shop didn’t have a snap on truck that comes by

Every time it happens, I informed the guy I bought it from, he says he’ll meet me sometime to get it repaired, he never follows through, then impact begins working again

9 months after purchase happens again on a really busy work day, I’m pissed, snap on guy isn’t responding about getting it repaired

I message customer service, they reach out to the snap on guy I bought it from and send me a shipping label, but the guy I bought it from insists I go through him after I assume his franchise overlords bitched to him directly about not being available for warranties

He explicitly tells me “go through me, if it goes over the 1 year warranty, it’s not an issue because it’s been well documented since the issue first started”

Naturally, he gives me the run around another 6 months and words steering entirely

So stops working again on a busy day, message customer service again, and they basically tell me to get fucked because it’s over the year time frame, but that “I can pay 125$ for a repair” to get it fixed

I explain the situation to them, and they suddenly don’t want to email me anymore and opt to call me to go “sowwy for the inconvenience, but nothing we can do, UwU”

So I respond with something along the lines of “don’t even bother saying sorry, you have the documentation of what your sales people are saying for your product, and your not making it right, I’d feel a lot better if you simply just told me to go fuck myself like your actions clearly suggest”

She says they’ll investigate further and get back to me

they don’t, so I email them again saying “just want to follow up with wether or not your going to honor the warranty for the tool I purchased given all the evidence of me getting the run around from a franchisee, and if not? Please send me necessary paperwork so that I may look into becoming a franchisee, I love the concept of taking peoples money, making promises to them, then not having to follow through. Sounds very profitable”

They email me back saying “please send me your address so that I may send a replacement as soon as possible!”

I send my address, and apologize for being a dick

Then they realize it’s for an impact and read all my previous complaints, and so they change their mind about sending a replacement even though they said they would in email, and said they need to check back through my complaint

So I go “oh goodie, let me know”

Then they try to call me, so I email them again saying “let’s stick to email, not in the mood to be disingenuously apologized to over the phone, when I’ve clearly been screwed around by your company”

They suggest that I simply pay the 125$ for the repair, and they will give me a 135$ gift card for ANOTHER snap on tool, and that I should get my impact back within 4-8 weeks

I explain how 135$ voucher towards another tool that’s warranty is contingent on a lying franchisee meeting up with me, doesn’t exactly tickle my fancy. And that I’d have to buy another impact to use while waiting for this one to be repaired, so now I’m out at least 300$ total for a warranty that should be free and just honored? And that i should be happy because I profit 10$ towards my next snap on tool purchase?

Ffs I can buy a 3/8th dewalt impact for 125$, it comes with 3 year warranty against manufacturer defects and a helluva lot easier to warranty. So I tell them that, and also ask what justification is for their impact being 5x retail cost of their competitors, for 1/3rd the warranty, and 200x more inconvenient to get warrantied

So debating on posting my entire email conversation with their customer service on some kind of social media if they don’t get back to me soon, and figured I’d share this story on here to let yall know, don’t waste your money on snap on or any of those overpriced fuck heads unless the tool your buying is lifetime warranty, and if it is? Then chances are any other cheaper brand also has a lifetime warranty as well

I have a sterling with a DD 60 series that cranks but won’t start. Just looking for some advice on how to get it started.

This will be a bit of a ramble but bear with me.

 I’m 22. Just got married a few months ago to my amazing wife and just bought our first house. Got my CDL when I was 20 and have been driving truck locally for the last 2 years.
 I’m currently in the Ohio National Guard. I have free college tuition I’m using to go to a technical school learning Medium/HeavyDuty Diesel only 30 minutes from where I live. I’m on night classes so I work during the day and go to class in the evening (6:30pm-11:30pm Monday-Thursday). 
My ultimate goal is to one day have my own semi/fleet of trucks. I figured to be proficient in both fields (driving/mechanics) to be more well-rounded. My original plan was to go to tech school, graduate, find a job working in a shop for a few years, and then start looking into buying trucks. 
 However, I’m feeling a bit stuck. I’m barely into my second class (currently on Air Brakes/Air Systems/PMs) and the stress of working full time plus going to classes at night. The instructors are good and I’m still learning quite a bit. I have a job offer to go work in a truck shop near where I live. The shop manager said he’d have flexible hours and they mostly do basic stuff (tires, brakes, suspension work etc.) He said having my own tools is a plus but not required. I would start at the same pay I make now driving ($24/hour), with an evaluation at 90 days for a potential raise.
I’m just stuck on what to do. Not sure if I should just stay where I’m at and keep driving and stay in school until I graduate (probably in 1.5 years or so). Or if I should take the job and drop out of school. The college is free so I’d feel stupid to not use it, but I feel like everybody learns more on the job than they do in school, plus I would get more of my free time back. Or should I take this job and finish up my degree to stack up my resume? 
 I know it’s a lot to read, but if you made it to the end, thank you. Any help is greatly appreciated. 
 

I also dislike when people hide chaffed hydraulic hoses with a chunk of silicon heater hose or other types of anti chafe things.

I have a Volvo with a d13 and my oil pressure is building slower than usual and takes roughly 10 minutes to get to normal pressure. This did not occur last winter. When the engine is warmed up or when I'm driving the pressure is good. 30 at idle and 60 when driving. For cold start it would always be at 60 right away but now it's at the 50 mark. What could cause this? I have about 850k miles on the engine.

Here's a simple system I made up for my truck. Figured I'd share it with the r/DieselTechs homies in case anyone was looking to build something like this on their service trucks.

Hello all I have a 1990 3406b that has been a headache here lately wask making oil put new nozzles 3421 in place of the 3424 that was in it and new transfer pump fire it up it goes to miss firing and skipping bad could track the truck mile or so from the smoke. We retimed pump now it runs ton of black smoke no power rebuilding the afrc tomarro and was told to time then pump 17 degree counter clockwise should straighten it out any info greatly appreciated

I know it’s a long shot but anyone knows any shops hiring in Dallas tx or surrounding areas

Looking for some help here. Truck is a 2019 Western Star with a DD13 (GHG17) codes noted below. Truck has very VERY low miles (less than a thousand). Yes it really has less than a thousand miles as its been sitting since new. Its a long story for another post. Really hoping I can get some help here. I do not own a copy of diagnostic link but have been able to pull codes a couple of ways. The truck will run for about 30-60 seconds and then automatically shut down. All three engine lights are on (including red stop) AND regen light is flashing. Been after this for a week or so and have decided to ask you all for some help.

Fuel Rail pressure at Idle (800rpm): 8100-8400 psi

Fuel Rail Pressure - Desired at idle : 6900-7600 psi

Fuel Rail Pressure - deviation at idle : -800 to -1600 psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail pressure at Idle (800rpm): 8100psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail Pressure - Desired at idle : 5907 psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail Pressure - deviation at idle : -2168 psi - AFTER FAILED REGEN ATTEMPT

Fuel 100% new/fresh

DEF 100% new/fresh

New Pressure Limiting valve installed 12/1/24

current codes

https://preview.redd.it/qp2pt5vcfb4e1.png?width=1425&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e783986a38ae595207e984131158dfc8be21e80

Hi everyone, trying to diagnose a BMW M47 with the vp44, cylinder 3 didn't fire at first, then I tested all outputs on the pump with an injector out of the engine, all outputs work, tested all injectors, they also all work, I proceeded to put everything back together and bam! It worked fine for 5 minutes..

Then went back to cylinder 3 not firing, I exchanged 2 injectors (2-3) and the misfire stays on the same cylinder, if I stop it it starts great for a few seconds and goes back to misfiring.

I checked how the vp44 works and it seems that there is only one pump that does pressure and then distributes it to the cylinders, so the pump itself works, can the distributor just fail?

Thanks!

Hey everyone I have a job interview tomorrow with a school bus company. It’s been a while since I’ve been on a job interview what should I wear? Boots and work clothes or should I be more dressed up?

How is it being a diesel mechanic, what field are you in(agriculture, construction, etc.). How is the day-to-day? Is it worth it?How is the toll? Do you like it?

Did an oil change, fuel filters/air filters, now the truck is in some sort of limp mode like it’s not getting air and it’s blowing fuel/fumes out of the exhaust. Newer truck in the fleet haven’t really seen it yet. Is this what these trucks do or is there something I’m missing?

Have a DD15 my fleet is getting rid of so they don’t want to spend much time troubleshooting this since it’s not really causing an issue, anyway the truck turns over and has a hiccup/surge just once then idles normal, it’s not a QCV cause it’s a month old unless bad “new” part but it doesn’t fail a fuel integrity test the way a bad QCV usually would. Anyone ever ran across this? I couldn’t run through the tests like I mentioned so I’m guessing but curious to know what it could be?

I work at an independent shop in town. Last tech I knew at the dealership has since left. This is for my personal vehicle. I’m looking for someone with access to techline to request a bcm vci update to add rpo code UF3 per UI Bulletin #82H. We have a mdi and access to acdelco tds but since we’re not dealer we don’t have techline. WILLING TO PAY TO BE ABLE TO USE A LOGIN. Thanks

I’m stuck in a shop where basically everyone is at a complete loss with electrical issues. Whether it be a broken wire in a harness or some other issue. It always goes to a dealer shop Or another shop we outsource major jobs to (engine rebuilds, ect).

I basically have no one to learn from. We have a fleet of medium duty trucks (Kenworth t680, peterbilt 579) all have the Cummins X15.

Edit: small issues like lighting we can do but basically nothing else.

I'm really torn between the two, looking at 1 inch extended anvil impacts, I'm leaning towards Milwaukee because of the weight and only takes 1 battery, but the stats of IR are pulling me in so I need your opinions

IR for $1,144 delivered, comes with 2x20v 5.0 batteries and dual charger

Milwaukee one key + 2x18v red lithium 5.0 and charger $1,075 delivered

Im on a fleet of garbage trucks and I’m looking for more training, we only run Cummins and paccar. I didn’t go to tech school for diesel. The company will pay for a lot of training but I’m wondering what kind I should do. I don’t have time to drive to a school due to hours and location. Looking at Cummins courses they offer in person in Portland. Any online courses you’d recommend? Would like to do a course for insite

So six days ago I had a driver drive a 2014 bluebird bus with the def level warning light, derate warning light and engine warning light for 120 miles. The def tank showed 81% def level, and the codes cleared themselves in two days. He says he knows it was because the def froze, but if that was the case the other bus would've had the same issues. I called GSA to have it towed to a mechanic, and an hour after it was dropped off this Tuesday, that same driver picked it up from the mechanic. He drove it again for 80 miles on Wednesday, and today I find it has a significant coolant leak in 2 places and a decent enough oil leak to leave a puddle the size of a basket ball. Are these issues probably tied together? I need something to give my manager on Monday. I feel like I'm beating my head against a brick wall with them listening when I'm telling them issues that the busses should be red lined for an don't know what to do to get them to listen. Any tips and insight is welcomed.

I have cat et and a Canadian ca3 com adapter with the cat 9 pin heavy equipment plug. I'm trying to adapt it to a 9 pin truck port and it's giving me fits.

I bought a adapter with the gray female port to the green keyed 9 pin male port. Plugged it in and comm unit wouldn't power on. Equipment style connector was wired correctly, the j1939 plug wasn't. Used a pinout to change the power and ground, moved j1939 - and plus, j1708- and + to appropriate pins on green connector. Didn't hook up CDL wires. Still wouldnt link.

After that I installed 2 120 ohm resistors between j1939 + and - and twisted the wires. I get a brief flash on 1939 and 1708 when I plug in and then it won't link.

Looking at cat #507-1011 as a fix, because apparently my imported heap o turds won't cut it.

Hey everyone! I recently purchased my first cart due to the bay situation at my new job so I wanted to ask for any tips on organizing the sockets/top section? I’m looking at the Ernst socket rails or the Westling socket trays. Also I wanted to a ask about wrench rails as well. I’m used to the v shaped wrench racks but the way my wrenches sit in these racks hit the cart and i am unable to close the drawer fully. The cart is a Macsimizer if that helps! Thanks for any advice