Hello. I just bought my Mazda cx-7 MZR-CD 2.2 2009 and i have question for long term owners. Does this model have heated back seats for passangers? I know there are heated seats for driver and front passenger. My seats are leather and it could be usefull and nice.

Hello

I'm looking mazda 5 factory service manual .Does anyone have it or know where to get it?

https://youtu.be/KK47DJAJ63Q?si=M_j6NeT3mKgb9bRt

Hey guys, I'm needing to replace one of the oxygen sensor on my 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3 liter. I'm having a hard time trying to locate where Bank 1 sensor 1 is. I believe it's on the front passenger, closest to the engine but im not sure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mazda 2025 Cx-5 Premium Plus

Roof rack and cross bars Bumper guard Trailer hitch and wires Front/rear splash guards Wheel locks All weather mats Cargo tray

39.8k OTD (yes, includes tax, title, fees)

See here for a bit more background info on why I think I need to replace the hub assembly on my 2016 Mazda 3. Had the ABS/TPMS/Traction control lights come on a couple weeks ago, with a wheel speed sensor code. Got a new sensor and installed it today. Had to drill out the old one, and I accidentally slightly drilled into the hub assembly while doing so (I think). Wheel speed sensor code went away, but now I have a code for Left Front Rotor Sensor - Mechanical Failures. Looks like that code can also be referred to as "left front tone wheel".

Anyways, I think I need to replace the hub assembly since it has the other part of the ABS sensor (magnet) as part of it, as I don’t know why else the lights would be still on. Unless I just didn't put in the new sensor properly, but it was pretty straightforward, and that wouldn't explain the new ABS code.

Looking at either this or this OEM assembly, OR there are quite a few on Rockauto for half the price. My car is Mexico built, and I'm looking for the front assembly. With how important your wheel hub is, I'm not against paying for OEM, but am wondering if there's anyone who think using Rockauto parts would be acceptable.

I’m planning on selling my car and buying a 2016 Mazda 6 so I’m just wondering if there is anything to look out for when I eventually own the car

We have a 2012 Mazda3 2.0 hatchback. I replaced the battery in Jan of this year (it was ~3 years old, and kind of a cheapo battery) with a Duralast Gold battery. I just had to replace that one today - it was totally trashed (per the guy at AutoZone).

With the replacement, when the car is running voltage sits around 13.5V with or without load (to add load I ran the beams, the AC and the radio). I wasn't able to see it when the load came on, so I can't see if it dipped low when I started turning things on. There are no aftermarket accessories on this car. I think it has the upgraded factory radio, but that's about it.

I'll probably take it to Advance tomorrow to have them test the alternator but I'd like to know what the expected number is - most of what I see out there generically says 14.2 +/- and would imply that 13.5 is on the low side. Having two replacements in less than a year makes me suspect the alternator...

Any info/help appreciated!

Gonna try to keep this short and sweet.

TLDR; ready for upgrade but not yet ready for a family. Looking for best choice based on anecdotal advice.

I’ve had my manual 3 for 8.5 years now and I love her, but I’m ready for an upgrade. Paid off. According to Carmax, they’d take my gal for about $7K (which, Mazda said they’d match Carmax’s valuation). I was originally considering selling/trading in for the 30, as my partner and I are looking to start a family in the next 3 years, but after reading reviews here, it appears that the 30 isn’t as suited for a growing family.

So we’ve been kicking around the idea of me leasing a 30 instead for the next 3 years, then swapping over to the 50 for purchasing purposes. I feel like I could definitely get better value and drive less than the estimated lease mileage, as I’m currently under 5k miles a year (WFH).

My partner has leased regularly for the last 10 years, so he’s familiar with the process, and although I prefer purchasing, I’m willing to give something new a go, if even temporarily.

I feel like the 50 is what we will ultimately end up with permanently, but I’m not ready to buy that just yet, and I’m sort of at the end of my rope with the 3. Ready to move on.

Would love any advice or thoughts of this plan, and if we can do anything better. I truly feel this valuation of my 3 (manual hatch, 102,000 miles) can quickly depreciate, so would like to make a smart move.

I don’t want to move into the 50 right now, since we don’t currently have a family and I’m nervous about buying a car before beginning a family and missing out on any upgrades over the next 3-4 years.

TYIA

Looking to purchase a Mazda 3 Turbo premium before the end of the year. Besides the current 0% APR promo, are there anything that the dealers are willing to tack on for one? Thanks!

I recently replaced the passenger-side mirror on my 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback after an accident. I bought a $150 replacement that advertised a blind spot monitor feature, similar to the original mirror. However, after installation, the new mirror doesn’t beep inside the car as the original did, and the blind spot indicator is barely visible when a car is next to me. I verified that it was compatible with my car by cross-referencing my VIN, yet it’s not performing as expected. Does anyone have recommendations to get it working correctly, or would it have been better to go with a factory replacement from Mazda?

An absolute blast to own | 60k miles, no issues

Today, while bringing my car (2024 CX-30 GS) to a complete stop, I noticed the engine stuttering for a moment. I'm not sure what caused it. The transmission was in drive mode, and at the same time, I heard a warning sound. However, I momentarily forgot to check the instrument cluster. In the past, I had pressed the brake and accelerator pedals simultaneously, and while a warning appeared, the engine never stuttered. In today's situation, there were people nearby, and they suddenly jumped in front of my car. Could the car have sensed the people and reacted with sudden braking?

UK, 2016 Mazda6 Touring, 2.2 diesel, solid car, love it, for the last half-a-year i’ve had an engine light on-and-off due to the EGR Valve clogging up with carbon, spent about £200+ in the garage, the valve is kind of accessible because it’s at the front of the engine, they’ve tried cleaning liquids/sprays but it always seems to come back on, a replacement is like over £800! but for about £500 i COULD get the valve removed although it’s illegal, it’s annoying because it’s not even needed for the engine, it’s an emissions based part but apparently it can kill the car, not sure what to do, it’s only at 63,000 miles and i require it for my job, anyone else had a similar issue?

Is this a good deal? This is with a 2022 Forester limited traded in (end of lease) and 0 down. We were at $542 which I would have jumped on immediately. $636 for me a month is a little bit much.

My 2015 Mazda is running fine but the electric system can act up, Bluetooth connection will lose, audio channel randomly change on itself. It wasn’t a big issue until I want to buy a new rav4 and it becomes more annoying. But after some serious thinking, I decided to keep my little Mazda till the day it dies. Just need to give it a little love. Reddit recommends me to get a new head unit and take it to detailing.
Now, I want to upgrade it to CarPlay, is it the same thing as head unit? Or is it separate? Will replacing the head unit fix the audio jumping issue? I don’t plan to do it myself, I looked around and some people mentioned dealership, Best Buy, local mechanics? What would be the best and reliable way to do it? Appreciate any insights!

This past summer I rented a Mazda 3 with the turbo engine while my gf and I went on vacation. I absolutely loved how good the vehicle handled and I love how quick it was!! Is there anything I should know or anything I should take into consideration before buying one? I’m looking to get one from 2020 and newer

Hi everyone. I’m looking at two cars: a 2019 CX-5 with 40K miles for $24,000 and a 2018 CR-V with 61K for $22,000. The Mazda is a Grand Touring AWD with the Premium Package (Bose audio, HUD, etc); the Honda is a mid-level EX. I’m leaning toward the Mazda (the Honda will need to be shipped, free, from about 75 miles away), mostly because it has fewer miles and is better equipped. From what I’ve read the 2019 CX-5s have a reliable transmission (no CVT) and is generally well regarded. I’m a bit leery of more potential issue points with the Mazda options, though I intend to get MaxCare regardless of which vehicle I choose.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much in advance,

A

They obviously come fairly large so I’m hoping to trim them down to better fit my Mazda 3 2014. Does anyone have a template I can use to stencil out the shape and cut my flaps to size?

If not a 2014 then any year tbh I’m sure there wouldn’t be much difference. Help a brother out pleaaaaaase, Thank you!