Anyone experience this and know how to fix it ?

Crazy thing happened to me yesterday so I parked in my driveway and it’s a little bit of an angle but I didn’t think much of it and I’ve backed up into it before and nothings happened but I did it again yesterday and I went to turn off my car but when everything powered off on the inside the engine running not at 100% but like 25% but you can hear it like slowly turning. It also gave me p2188 code for too rich on idle not sure if that’s together. Car doesn’t have any mods besides hpfp

In theory could I use the current Mustang eco boost engine in my 6 like obviously with a stand alone ecu and some engineering could it work?

Hey, Sorry but I'm definitely not a mechanic, I know just enough to be dangerous. Not really a car guy either but this little Mazda I got to rip to work and back sure was fun to drive while it lasted!

Did an oil change in my 2006 turbocharged Mazdaspeed 6 last night. Went from about 2L of oil in it to 6L. I knew it was leaking oil but my oil change got delayed 1000KM. I suspect the leak is getting worse and worse. Anyways, drove another 3 hours between last night and this morning when I heard a small pop, engine shut off, engine oil pressure light came on, and I had to coast to a stop. I figured for sure it was seizure salad. Or I blew an aftermarket vent in my crankcase. Whatever, its worth like $2000 on a good day. Anyway I come back to it in the daylight and surprisingly it still had oil in it! Mind you it was leaning on the dipstick side being on the side of the road, but full of oil as per dipstick. Motor wasn't covered in oil and no drips underneath in the 3 hours it was sitting there. Outta curiosity I decided to try starting it. The belt turns and all the idlers/Pulleys are turning. But more or less just sounds like a starter whine, does not sound like it is cranking over. I noticed the one idler at the very bottom and front of belt assembly, the idler or rider was spinning but the "Internals" of the idler for lack of a better word was not spinning. It had Three Knubs on it about 3/4" wide and 1/4" Deep. I'm not sure if this is something like a solenoid that needs to activate to turn something internally? Sorry, again, not a mechanic.

Let me know what you think! Is this worth pursuing to maybe get another 20,000 km out of it? I use it for work and its pretty beat up but if i can fix it for under $500 I would be interested. Or am I in for a nightmare on a beat up $2000 245,000km car, even though it appears to not be seized and have an intact crankcase.

I have a 2007 speed6, sometimes my AWD light will stay solid, other times it will flash. I can feel it kick in every once in a while in slippery conditions (like the snow today), but I feel like it doesn't hold. It just occasionally sends bursts of power to the rear. I'm going to try and look at my axles and rear diff later, but I was wondering if there's anything electronic to check like sensors or a fuse for the AWD system before i dig in. Any info helps thanks.

I have a cylinder 3 misfire and what I did was swapped coils and they both sparking and I also replaced the plug and it stopped for a bit then it came back but it would go on and off now I have a constant misfire and don’t know what it is. Any input I’d really appreciate it!

Got the Vland headlights installed a couple weeks ago. I was hesitant to buy them for a while because everyone seems to have these. However, there's not really anything else put there for these cars. The stock headlights are awful and I wanted to actually see at night so I decided to go for these. I absolutely love them, and they are great at night!

Failed a safety inspection because previous owner put a regular Mazda 6 windshield on and it blocks the VIN number, I could get around replacing the windshield again if I can show there’s 2 spots on the car where the VIN is show. Was wondering if there’s another spot where the VIN is displayed besides the door frame and windshield, thanks

Does anyone know what front lip this is and if it's still available to buy?

So the other day I got myself a k&n drop in filter for my mazdaspeed 6 and when I started up my car BOOM Crazy lean conditions. AFR won’t move from 29.25 and short term is 24.80 steady. I thought I gunked up my maf so I cleaned it but still nothing. I put my old filter in but got no results. I have no clue what’s causing this. Ik it isn’t my fuel system or its internals since it’s been upgraded not to long again and hasn’t given me problems. This hurts to see bc before my engine ran PERFECT with my afr always in the 14.7 and a steady -1.75 LTFT At idle and -0.16 at cruse. When I drive the afr or stft don’t change until I let off throttle then my afr goes to 14.85 and stft at -0.16. What’s even weirder is that only in third gear when I slowly accelerate and hold around 40% throttle my stft shoots up to 33% and I can feel my engine start really struggling. Today I took everything out my engine to inspect and see if it was a broken line or whatever but I found nothing. If anyone has any idea of what this is then please lmk

Does the ms6 have the ability to read oil pressure from factory but it’s not display it or am I just thinking too highly of this car

Found this little buddy on a speed 3 at the junk and slapped it on mine, now wondering how bad is it to run it with out a tune? It does have upgraded fuel internals but no tune

Been looking everywhere, looking for genuine 6 speed floormats for sale. Mainly looking for driver and passenger. Anything is appreciated. 🙏🙏

Hello there, so my ms6 has a cylinder 2 misfire, i changed the spark plugs and ignition coils, that didnt solve anything. What should i try next? Im not very mechanically educated so any help is appreciated! Tia

Good morning,

I was having some issues shifting for a while and just ignored it and pretended it wasn’t a problem. Now I don’t have the ability to hit gears R, 1, 3, & 5. Finally took a look and my cable for shifting forwards backwards is frayed terribly.

So now I have to replace the shift cables and I was wondering if anyone else has tackled this issue and if there is a good suggestion for an alternate part than the OEM shift cables because those are over 300 dollars.

A lot of the cheaper part options I’ve seen are for a “Mazda 6 manual” and not a mazdaspeed6, I don’t know if these parts are different. Any help would be awesome. I have a 2006 btw.

Debating weather to spend the money for the supreme mevotech front end kit they have or to just get a regular set…. I know the differences but does anyone have any experience on the different sets ? As well as if it’s worth the extra 150$ on rockauto

New thermostat no leaks but it smells like burning coolant any ideas ?

What’s my best bet for replacing my transfer case ? Mine went out.

My passenger side window motor doesn’t want to roll up Automatically nor does it let it be controlled by the driver switches. The motor is a 6 pin, I’ve replaced it 4 different times, tried using my rear driver motor to see if it’s the motor but still nothing…. I’m debating on replacing the passenger side window switch but I don’t think it’s that since it does work on its own but doesn’t do it automatically nor from the driver side switch….

My car started throwing a P2195 (O2 sensor signal stuck lean), P2177 (system too lean off idle), and P2097 (post catalyst fuel trim too rich).

Two years ago I got e P2187 (system too lean at idle) and after troubleshooting the MAF and attempting to clean the throttle body, I installed a Corksport Throttle Body. Since then I've had that same code pop up a couple of times, but in each case after 3 driving sessions it went away on it's own.

Before I take it to the shop again, is there anyway to tell which sensor needs to be replaced? Any special tools required a small shop may not have access to?

So current issue is I'm running lean at idle p2187

Current mods fmic.bnrs1 , jbr 3in intake.. hpfp internals, cirwerk dp, full magflow exhaust, Cobb v3

So yeah trying to figure out where to start..my guess is check leaks and boost..but clean the hpfp and valve/injector service? (JDM motor with bout 45k on it..had it checked out when I blew my old motor at 200k..) Still goes into boost and what not but stutters at 2500/3k then it's fine

Input appreciated and btw happy new years all