Mainly curious on what kind of time frame it was to receive your car.

Backstory: Ordered a '25 Club with BBR first week of January. Getting antsy as I havent had a fun car in a few years so I'm really looking forward to having something fun again.

I'm kinda guessing/ planning for April/ May. Don't really want it any earlier as we will probably still have salt on the roads.

For reference, i drive a 2000 manual c5, all I’ve ever driven is manual chevys. My girlfriend wanted a Miata so I took my time and found one. It needed some work but I always work on my own stuff so I figured I’d get her a good deal on it if it meant I needed to get my hands dirty. So we ended up with an 03 automatic nb with 160k on the dash

Anyway, bunch of small issues but one that I have been pretty stumped over is a weird vibration. Heavy vibration when in drive at a stop. Any ideas? Excuse my lack of knowledge lol. I feel like it’s a trans issue but not 100%. Honestly not even really sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated:)

Looking for any advice, especially if unique to purchasing a Mazda MX-5.

In my situation, I will be financing for 3 years. I will not be trading, but will have a nice down payment. Thinking about getting PPF and window tint from a shop I know, rather than the dealer.

What kind of discounts are people getting on these cars right now? Should I ask for accessories to be thrown in for "free."

Is there any extended warranty worth it?

BTW - I am very familiar with the trim levels, options, etc. - but can still benefit from all advice.

When I got my Wife's 2023 Toyota Rav4, all the dealers refused to negotiate. But I hear things are different now.

I’m trying to gauge the difficulty of replacing my 2019 Miata transmission on my own. It gave way this weekend and is no longer covered by Mazda’s powertrain warranty. Mazda was quoting me around 5500 for parts and labor but a quick search online shows me ND2 transmissions go for around 1200-1500. Would it be worth replacing it on my own or is it not worth the hassle and take to a shop instead. I do have plenty of time on my hands as well as some decent mechanical aptitude. Love to know your thoughts

it's not turboed, but has aftermarket headers and magnaflow cat. i also covered the headers with the stock heat shield and i also put back the afm without electrical connection and bypassed the flap inside, so it looks stock. stuck the ait sensor inside the box. surprisingly it passed emissions. next step is to install my pieced together fm turbo.

PO lowered car in MSR coilovers low enough that it occasionally hits the bump stocks, was initially happy but starting to grow tired of the ride quality.

I hurriedly tried to raise ride height over the weekend with no luck on the collars so they may be seized. Going to have another stab at it this weekend, any suggestions as to how to unseize these?

Failing that, any recommendations for NB coilovers? There’s a fella close to me selling secondhand Tein’s for cheap (800 -> 400), are they worth trying?

Local farmers market this last season I saw a fellow and had to park next to him. Rules are rules after all.

I was looking at what options I have to replace my soft top and and came across a couple of different options if anyone has experience with any of them. I would like one that looks factory, so that means plastic window with zipper. Robbins seems like the obvious choice, but I'm probably only going to have the car <1yr so if I could save some money it would be ideal.

The sierra factory style is 400ish, looks like it might be a good choice.

Diamondmall Factory style is 215 on eBay, seems too good to be true but maybe someone here has had one?

Autoberry zipper for 300, also haven't heard of them. Can't find many reviews for this or diamondmall online

Has anyone had these tops, and are there any I should stay away from or any others I should consider? I'm going to be doing the install myself. Thanks!

Just bought an NA Miata and was wondering if anyone else had a solution to my problem. First off the buttons are reversed. The headlight button turns on the hazards and the hazards button pops up the pop-ups. Second, the buttons do not stay clicked. The headlights will move up and then down when the button is pressed, and the hazards will only stay on while the button is pressed. I am unaware of if the button should lock in the pressed position or just be a toggle for each of its roles.

Gotta post a picture when you park next to another.

I’ve been trying to align the input shaft into my pilot bearing & clutch disc for a while now. The transmission will not find itself fully flush no matter what. It will sit just a few mm off. I have tried tilting the engine, using a jack to help stabilize the transmission , spinning the input shaft using the driveshaft. Still won’t go in. I used an alignment tool when bolting down the pressure plate, flywheel and clutch, so everything is in line for sure, yet there is resistance if I try to push it to make it sit flush. Any advice?

I am looking to leave the hot hatch world for a Miata and as much as I would like an ND2 it may be a bit more than I should responsibly spend. Between an NC2 and an ND1 of similar mileage and condition, what would you choose? I'm mostly concerned with driving experience, but everything is a factor worth considering.

My first time ever changing differential and transmission fluid!

Hello!

I’ve bought a MX-5, 2006 with keyless start and entry. But when starting it’s saying key missing. Both keys aren’t paired and react to no button presses etc.

Both batteries replaced and the trick using 3x ignition and 3x door worn trigger an auto lock cycle, any advice?

hello everyone,

i hope everyone is ok, i was wondering if i would fit in a mazda mx5 Na, i am 195 cm tall around 105 kg, i would like to daily drive one.

I dont know if it helps as reference but i fit in the 1st gen Daihatsu copen, I am willing to make sacrifices like comfort

does anyone have any suggestions/ advice to give,

thank you and i i hope everyone has a good day/night

I've bought a 1999 NB Miata 2 months ago and I've started fixing her up. The previous owner wanted to make her a drift car but ran out of funds in the process having done only a few upgrades: new radiator with aftermarket cooling fans (which are manually turned on from the cabin), new cold air intake (:cry:), and a strut tower brace.

This week after a shopping trip the battery light came on telling me that the charging system wasn't working so I took the following steps:

1. Testing battery voltage with motor off I used a multimeter on the battery and it showed around 12.6V which I interpret as a good battery

2. Testing alternator by turning motor on (at idle) Again using the multimeter, battery level jumps to around 14.8-15V with no accessories on. With accessories turned on it fluctuated in the range 12.7-13.4V. I hadn't tested the battery prior to the issue so I'm not sure if they have changed since the light turned on.

3. Testing battery voltage with motor under load As I couldn't use the multimeter while driving, I use an OBD reader to get live data. This reader seems to show a value OBD_POWER (V) which is around 0.3-0.5V higher than what I'm reading on the multimeter. While driving around the OBD_POWER value stayed around 14.5-15V. At stop lights it was around 12.9-13.4V.

4. Checking the fuse box Visually I don't see any fuses popped.

5. Getting codes scanned and alt/battery tested at Autozone From the code scan there was only a P0403 — I've had this code long prior to the battery light issue and I don't see any relation between the two. The battery test showed a FAIL for cranking health. The alternator test showed a FAIL on diode and a FAIL on voltage regulator.

Check battery level after turning a drive I came back from Autozone and checked the battery. It read 12.78V which I understand is the surface charge.

Since I've had the code I've driven around and I don't notice any power loss. The only strange oddity I had was this morning when I started the car to take it to Autozone, it had a very rough/bouncy idle for around 20 seconds before it settled down

Also here is a prior issue in this car that may/may not be linked to this issue:

Since a few weeks back I've noticed that this car has an issue with heatsoak. After the car starts and gets properly heated up and I turn off the car, if I wait 15 mins and try to start it, it will crank but not start. If I lift the hood and wait for a bit for everything to cool down it starts right back up again. I've replaced the cam position sensor with a cheap new one from rock auto but the issue remains. I'm not too bothered by it and I plan on fixing it later.

So after all this here are my thoughts and next stems (please know I'm mainly a weekend warrior so I may be completely wrong here):

As I mentioned previously, this car has a manual switch to turn on the cooling fans from the cabin. I didn't realize that cooling fans draw a lot of power so since I've had the car I normally turn on the fuel pump, turn on the cooling fans, and then start the car. I now believe that the high load from having both cooling fans running along with the starter motor over the course of the last two months may have caused the alternator to wear out thus causing some issue in the voltage regulator and/or diodes. Assuming the Autozone test results are correct, then I believe the bad alternator may have killed the battery along with it.

I think the next steps should be to go for the easy stuff first. I'm going to double check all the grounds in the car and clean them. After this I'll replace the alternator and battery.

What really irks me is that if I ignore the battery light I don't feel any issue in the car. I checked the battery and it seems to be holding charge just fine, the alternator also seems to be charging it just fine. BUT both Autozone's test and the car's dash are telling me that something is wrong with the charging system.

I'd love to hear any input on my next steps. If anyone knows what might cause this or anything else I should test I'd really appreciate it as I'd love to not have to buy a new alt/battery.