I’ve been noticing something odd with my 2012 Acura TL lately. I just got my first car on dealership it has 30000 milage. Whenever I accelerate quickly, the car feels a bit jumpy or jerky, almost like it’s hesitating before picking up speed. I don’t know if its just me not use to it or because im accelerating it too fast. It’s not a huge issue, but it’s definitely noticeable and makes me a bit uneasy. I’m not sure if it’s just something I’m not used to with this car, or if there’s an underlying problem that needs to be addressed.

Hey everybody! I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with 154,000 miles, Manual Transmission. The problem I’m having is my car rough starts after 15-20 minutes of driving. By rough starts I mean it cranks perfectly fine (no weird sounds from starter) But struggles to pick up (I think either fuel or air problem) Codes? All EVAP related (only comes on after long drive cycles) P0440 P0441 P0446 I doubt these are the cause but my old Nissan Altima did rough start when it had a bad EGR. I’ve put fuel injector cleaner Going to check the spark plugs Take my battery to autozone to rule that out (Alternator is new about a year old) Going to check coil pack but I doubt it Let me know what you guys think ! Thank you.

[2002 325i BMW]

1. The top photo refers to manually unlocking the door using the key lock on the driver's side door. When it initially stopped working, I could insert the key, but it would just spin in circles. Now, the key moves side to side, but I still can't unlock the door that way.

2. The bottom photo refers to the issue with unlocking the doors using the button on my keys. When I press the button, I can hear the little knobs moving, but they don't lift all the way.

Please bear with me on this & explain like I'm 5 years old. 😂

Hi. I just bought a used car about a month ago and haven't had any issues. I left for work Wednesday morning and my right low beam was out. I thought, I'll buy a 2 pack and swap them out. But when I left work in the afternoon, the low beam was working. The same thing happened today. Is there a connection to starting the engine in the cold weather (chicago). Or is the bulb just fault?

I have a 2017 VW Golf.

Hey everyone, first post here, so if I’m breaking any sub rules, apologies in advance! I have a 2020 Mazda 3 which recently broke down while I was driving it. The car’s electronics just went bananas (I mean all the warning lights came on at once, literally, not figuratively). I turned it off to see if a restart would help, but the car wouldn’t turn on after that. I had it diagnosed by a Mazda dealer who is adamant that the issue was caused by water logging in the headlights (there is a small crack). I asked them if they’re 100% sure as one would assume a fuse would cut power to the headlights. They said that there’s a circuit board on the headlight unit which is connected to the car’s CAN Bus and that if there’s an issue with the headlight circuit, it can short the entire CAN Bus. Does this seem possible? I just don’t want to waste money on the wrong issue, especially if there are other electrical issues. Can water logging in the headlights kill the entire CAN Bus?

1. would some heat resistant glue be enough to fix it or
2. it needs to be changed and if I can change it my self how is it called so I can find it online

Skoda Fabia II 2012

2009 dodge journey. 225k miles

Over the past week or so the engine has been randomly shutting off when idling. It is has not had any gradual loss of power or any other weird behavior, the engine just immediately switches off. The lights and dash stay on, and the car starts right up again. It has never happened while giving it gas (moving), it has only happened when sitting in park or drive at a stop, and twice while reversing out of my driveway, just rolling no gas. It seems to stop happening once the car is warmed up.

Additional context:

• it’s been 30° where I’m at for the past couple weeks
• checked and replaced battery a few days ago
• had alternator checked, it’s good
• replaced spark plugs and coils less than a year ago
• replaced timing belt and tensioner less than a year ago
• zero trouble codes, dash is clean
• car functions perfectly otherwise

Any response is appreciated, thanks in advance. I’m suspecting cam and crank sensors maybe?

Yesterday, while driving on Arizona's 101 highway, the windshield of my 2023 Hyundai Elantra Hybrid cracked. The crack started at about 7-8 inches and has grown to nearly 14-16 inches today..

Can you please suggest which way should I proceed based on below Progressive insurance – 500$ deductible (didn’t opt for glass coverage) – They didn’t approve OEM glass

Safelitte (provides installation support – if needed recalibration or glass is not correctly installed)

With insurance – 500$ + (245$ if OEM glass)

Without insurance – 996$ (if after market glass); 1200$ if OEM glass

  Local body shop (provides same as safelitte and also free chip repair in future)

With insurance – 400$ (said will reduce deductible); extra 300$ if OEM glass

Without insurance – 695$ (if after market glass); 990$ if OEM glass

  My concern is whether aftermarket glass is okay. It's only been a year and a half, and my windshield is already cracked. If I go through insurance, will it raise my premium? I’m based in Arizona.

2008 ford escape. The entire instrument cluster shuts on and off, when happening the heat will switch to defrost temporarily l. Along with intermittent loss of power steering. The doors sometimes lock. Yea can occasionally hear the relays freaking out before it starts. I've replaced the alternator, and battery. Read no pending or permanent codes, and have found no blown fuses. I have no idea what it could be.

So basically every time i get gas, I fill up my tank and just let it run until the pump clicks and stops automatically. After that, I always go and keep filling it until it clicks and stops again, which is usually like 5 seconds and a dollar or two more in gas. It never overflows or anything, just ends up getting me a few more dozen miles per tank. The picture attached is shows my gauge after the extra fill up and as you can see it’s slightly above the line, if I don’t do it then the needle is right on the line. Is this bad for my car?

First issue on the table, my car is 12 years old. It's a 2012 Chevrolet Malibu. Keep that in mind while you read this. I need a new battery that's been determined. My car takes a while to start up. But also, it's started to shake and vibrate. And it has the sloshing sound that's in the hood. It's really bad when I start the car. Besides that it's great! Please help😔

I've seen everyone talking about the m2, rs3 but no one talks about the z4. I think it looks really good and the b58 sounds phenomenal and convertible but people don't talk too much about this type of cars, and it's more faster in comparison with the m2 on Nurburing

Im trying to do the brakes on my sisters 2015 Kia Soul. The car dont have the key. Can anyone identify this? I have a universal kit but none of the sockets work.

I have a '97 BMW 328 (3,370lbs) and do not entirely trust the jack points on the front sides of the car, I usually use the rears. My question is: Can I put a wheel with tire underneath each of the front wheels of the jacked up cars and lower it onto them as almost-like ramps? I would also use jack stands in addition to a wheel under each front tire, just wondering of the logistics of this. Will the wheel face hold as much [horizontally] as when properly mounted? If it matters, the old wheel is a BMW Style 11 with deflated tires. Found a pic of basically what I'm planning to do, but only on the front two wheels. TIA

https://preview.redd.it/3pbdncgaph4e1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81ec3f64c883346cd838adee98fb024dacd38f46

It started snowing today and was super slick outside and I hit a curve, no air is coming out but there is a small rear on the side of a tire, so I need to buy a whole new tire to replace this?

So i just replaced basically my entire hydraulic system for the clutch on my 06 Audi A3 2.0tdi. This was quite an extensive process and involved pulling out the gearbox for the slave cyl. When i put it back together and started the car it immediately began making a clicking noise when running idle. I checked that i had oil so im not running dry. When i went for a small test drive i noticed that after i pushed the gas pedal to a certain threshold, the car began jerking intensely. i have to add that in the fixing process i removed a pipe that was entirely loose inside the engine bay, this pipe was one of two connecting to the air filter box and went around the back of the engine, at the other end of this pipe, it kind of widend and was not bolted into the engine but it had holes for bolts. the other pipe from the air filter was the normal air intake that goes in to the turbo. what could the problem be?

My car has this issue where it makes a loud grinding noise while driving. The grinding noise goes away when revving. Ive only really notice it happen while driving in neutral or low gears. It happens intermittently, but pretty much each drive.

I had the car at an auto-electrician. We suspected it was the starter bendix.

The starter was stripped and everything benchtested.

He said bendix and starter was fine. He replaced the solenoid however.

This did not fix the issue.

He thinks it can only be the relays and ignition. He swopped out the relays (swapped the a/c with starter. We did the same by the fuses and relays the engin compartment)

This worked for about 1 day. The noise has started again today.

Any suggestions?

Additional:

I Recorded the sound a few days ago. If anyone is interested to listen to it. It happens just after 2.20min. (Was recorded on my way to shop)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HVR0hDthwxX9iecHqxluETol_UmYJn0N/view?usp=drivesdk

I have a 2008 hyundai i10 1.1

1.	I’m thinking of buying a downpipe for a 2.0T and installing it on my 1.8T. Will it fit, or would it require custom modifications?

2.	If I decide not to buy a downpipe but instead go to an exhaust shop and have them delete the catalytic converter that the downpipe would replace, will I get the same performance benefits? Would my car be able to shoot flames with just a catalytic converter delete? (My car currently has no resonator or muffler—only the one remaining catalytic converter.)

3.	If I delete the catalytic converter and replace it with a Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, will my car still be noticeably louder on startup compared to my current setup?

4.	If I add two Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonators after deleting the catalytic converter, will the exhaust still be noticeably louder than it is now?

5.	Finally, with two Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonators installed, can my car still shoot flames, or will the resonators prevent that?

If you can answer any of these please do 💪🙌

i posted on here about a week ago. my car continues to have trouble starting even though i have replaced the battery, one of the terminals, and the alternator. the car will start up if jumped but it seems like there is something draining the battery - you leave it for long enough and it won't start up again.

the lights on the dash turn on when i try to start the engine but no sounds from the car. i have power brakes and power steering which both seem to deplete pretty quickly after a fews times trying to start the engine. i even got one of those diagnostic machines you attach to the battery that tells you what's bad, it said "bad alternator" so i changed it but the problem hasn't been fixed.

after changing the battery, before the new terminal or alternator, i looked for parasitic leaks by testing each fuse in the fuse box but no luck.

any of yall dealt with something like this before? any info could be helpful. thanks!

chat help I have a 2013 Toyota Prius EV. Any car people know what could be wrong?

Hi there y'all. Not sure how else to start this post, so I'll get right to it.

My car is a 2018 Nissan Sentra SR. I replaced the battery earlier this year with Advanced Autoparts. So I took it there to get it checked out, but they don't see any issue with the battery.

The gist is this: Recently (within the last month), the car's been having trouble starting. Didn't think about it much since I only use my car to go from A to B and back. Randomly, one day, it had no battery. So I called my brother to jump, I let the car warm up for a bit before taking off to work. No issues heading out to lunch, but after work the battery was dead again.

I'm more than 100% positive nothing was left on in the car. I double checked everything, made sure to unplug any USB cables still connected and stuff. Lately, the car has been giving this issue more and more. Today I had to jump it again to get to work. The most frustrating thing is that it happens infrequently.

Any advice, suggestions, ideas, constructive criticism about the post, and anything in between is appreciated

There are some things that I need to fix on my car and I was thinking about Rock Auto.

My question is if any of you guys have bought stuff off of Rock Auto? I never have because it doesn’t look very trustworthy but if y’all have I would like to know what y’all’s experience was with it. Like are the parts reliable since they are so cheap?

I’m just a curious person, and know just a little about electronics. I’m curious if this means the pin that typically recognizes a client device on my car’s usbc port isn’t working, but another pin that talks to the chip in my smart cable across a different pin does. If it matters, the phone is intermittently recognized when using the non smart cable, but immediately drops.

Follow up question. This issue wasn’t resolved after replacing the usbc port on my car with another purchased from the OEM. My guess is this new one is defective. If I can get my hands on a pin out diagram for this charging port can I test to confirm it’s a hard are issue with that part doing continuity tests across each pin? (If this is a connection issue at cars APIM it’s more of a job to get to that.)