/r/mazdaspeed3
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How do I reattach the front bumper. It is starting to sag a bit because it got hung up on the curb when I parked. Are there special clips to reattach this? TIA
Recently bought a 2011 Speed3 with 80k miles. It has a slight misfire at Idle only when warmed up and isn't throwing any codes. Just changed the spark plugs and cleaned MAF and no difference. What should be my next step? Car is bone stock except for blow off valve. Thanks
My speed has been drop dead reliable for 112k miles. I am aware of the timing chain interval, but figured I could wait until I heard rattling or the summer, but this evening I started my car and heard it slapping on the valve cover at idle. Left my car at work and got a ride home. I’m located in the danbury area of Connecticut, and I’m curious if anyone has a shop they trust or some similar connection where I could get it done? I don’t know a mechanic around here. Tia 😢
https://reddit.com/link/1ih2qgu/video/g6xg8q1g70he1/player
Sounds like its making a ticking sound is this normal or should i be worried?
Heard a ton of different stories with coolant. What are you guys using??
I'm in the middle of a pro tune, and he said fuel pressure is dropping dangerously low and looking at the data logs I sent, max fuel rail pressure was 1100-1200psi. When load increases, it dropped down to 400-600psi during pull. Then spikes up to around 900psi after letting of then back to idle which was 390 psi
i haven't driven the car other than this tuning process since I swapped the motor.
After short inspection, had a fuel leak with fitting going into the HPFP. I fixed that (wasn't fully connected) and did another 2 pulls in 3rd gear. One data log shows max pressure at 1565psi and dropping to 540-700psi then spiking to 1400psi when letting off and back to idle which is 390psi.
The 2nd pull was like the first explained.
I don't think this is normal, but I just don't know where to start. I have autotech HPFP internals with less than 3k miles.
Anybody know of what is a good rim size I want him to poke out just a little bit
Replacing Oil Cooler and RMM
Can I keep the cartridge style filter and only replace the oil cooler? Everyone says do the spin on conversion while i am down there but it doesn't make a difference to me.
Is the original cartridge filter housing a failure point? Can I keep it and save $100 by not converting.
So I’m trying to run air fuel boost an oil pressure going through the hole for the hood and the firewall sucks. Does anybody have any suggestions on a better way?
I'm in the market for a new car, and the ms3 has always been one of my dream cars. Only thing that scares me about them is the reliability. The one i'm currently looking at has 78k on it and has recently had a bunch of work done to it. It's lightly modified with a cs intake and turbo inlet, also a cs tmic and axle back exhaust. The post doesn't say anything about it but I would think it should have HPFP internals and a tune as well. If I seriously consider buying it then I would need to feel confident in it lasting me at least 10 years, which would put it a little over 200k. Is that realistic without me having to dump a bunch of money into it for major problems down the road? Just looking for some thoughts and advice. I'll attach photos too. Thanks!!
Hey guys, I'm new to the Birmingham area from VA and don't have a place to work on my car at my apartment. Anyone know have a trusted mechanic/Mazdaspeed specialty shop in the area? I'm fine with driving an hour or two for someone that knows their stuff. Thanks!
anyone know where the vin number on the engine is located at?
daily driver, currently on swift 8k front 7k rear, my front wheels rub my wheel/fender liner on not huge bumps.. thinking going to10k fronts, any suggestions from people running these coilovers?
would 10k front 7k be a poor choice, need to keep them more balanced and stiffen the rear more as well?
Two years ago ona hot spring day I turned my ac on and what do you know there is no cold air. I go to my local auto parts store and refill the AC. I have cold air all summer. Last year same deal, however I got a gauge to check the pressure and the low end had high pressure. I notice that I am unable to even get the AC light on the dash to stay on. Seems like it clicked on then hits some sort of overload then clicks off. I need to get it fixed I was going to start with having the remaining AC refrigeratorant drained then replace the compressor and hope that works. Has anyone had any experience with this?
Is there any tips or information I should know or look into before doing a sub install? I know how to wire it but just wondering if there’s anything I should be looking into like built in sub/amp, where to put the power wire through the firewall etc.
Any advice greatly appreciated!
So the anxiety port is stressin me out rn lmao. I just did a 2.5 duratec/2.3 mzr head swap for my gen2 and recently it’s been showing knock retard up to 3-5 degrees on like 60-80% throttle. I haven’t even been WOT because im so worried about it. Im currently on my base map from freektune and wondering if maybe its completely normal for there to be significantly more KR while on a base map?
Compression test was perfect and haven’t burned a drop of oil since doing the swap 700 miles ago so Im thinking the motor is solid. No other codes except an occasional misfire code (it comes and goes) when it cold starts and when driving after it sits for hours.
What are your guys thoughts?
Every month, we will open up the potential for your Speed3 to become the Sub's banner! Simply drop a picture of your speed in the comments, or link a photo to a site like Imgur (Instagram pages are not allowed), and vote for your favorites! At the end of the week, the winner will be chosen and they will have their photo uploaded as the banner for the month!
Couple of rules:
Good luck, and let's see those Speeds!!
So I’ve been having this issue for a while now and I’m at a bit of a loss. I have a 2013 MS3 that I’ve been fixing up (previous owner cheaped out on some “upgrades”) and I can’t seem to fix a few issues. The main issue is that when I’m going over 80 MPH, if I punch the gas it misfires (at least I think it’s a misfire) on me and I can’t take off like I want to. It’ll rev up fine, start taking off, then cut out for a fraction of a second, come back and speed up more, and repeat the misfire randomly and becomes more rapid as I speed up. What’s weird is that it ONLY does it 80+ (with a small handful of times around 75), otherwise the car works just fine at lower speeds. I also have a good bit of carbon buildup on my tail pipes and back end of my car (it’s gotten better since I replaced the exhaust but still there) as well as my O2 sensors. I’ve also got several codes that pop up pretty often (I’ll list below).
What I’ve replaced:
-Exhaust —> Corksport 3.5” Turbo-back exhaust (https://corksport.com/2010-2013-mazdaspeed-3-turbo-back-3.5-exhaust-system.html)
-Stock air filter —> Corksport Cold Air Intake (https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed3-short-ram-intake.html?variation_id=34931)
-New O2 Sensors from RockAuto
I’ll be replacing my blow-off valve with a Corksport valve in the near future.
Codes:
P0401: EGR Insufficient Flow Detected
P0171: System Too Lean - Bank 1
P0137: O2 Sensor #2
P2096: Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean (Bank 1)
I’ll replace/repair/clean whatever I need to, I just don’t want to waste money replacing something that doesn’t necessarily need it. Also, please explain things to me like the simpleton I am, I’m only a YouTube Certified Home Mechanic (and barely that, hahaha). Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, everyone!
As the title says. My ac light does not turn on. I’ve checked fuses and they are all fine. I’ve bought one of those canisters to refill but did not add any cus the moment I plugged it the low pressure side was on red. (high pressure on the low side?) Any other possible easy things I can check or should I just take it to a shop?