/r/mazdaspeed3
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/r/mazdaspeed3
There's a first gen part out on marketplace near me and the guy says he has an aftermarket downpipe and I'm wondering if it would fit on my second gen.
Recently done the HPFP install and using the Cobb ots stage 1+, with Cobb cat back exhaust, Cobb turbo inlet, air box and air intake, and noticed after a coupe days I’m seeing:
LTFT +0.7 at idle, when staying at 30mph it’s round -3.8 and under acceleration it can go down to -14.6.
Would this be a leak somewhere in the intake side or would this be showing a problem with the HPFP install?
can anyone recommend a performance shop in south florida that has experience with mazdas?
Hey guys I accidentally started my car without the Oil control valve actuator connector plugged in. The car started just fine but gave me a code p2088. When I turned the car off and tried to turn it back on it will not start.
I’ve disconnected the battery for long amounts of time
Fucked with the connector a hundred times
Checked fuses and relays
Replaced the battery in my key.
Please help me.
So I did my injector seals this past weekend and I’ve been driving my car and I’ve been smelling a little gas in the cabin while I have my ac on. I mostly only smell it when I’m at stops. I figured maybe it was all the gas I spilled in my engine bay when I took the fuel rail off but I’m not sure. Should I be worried?
Hey guys, trying to wrap up my engine swap here. Where the bolt goes into the shock, the underneath stud, with the threads in it broke loose. Wondering what part I need to purchase to fix this. Thank you
So I have a 2008 mazdaspeed3 and the rear passenger side sits about 2.5cm lower than the rear drivers side ( measured from ground to bottom of fender wheel arch. Anybody have any idea what could be the issue? I’ve been getting a clunk for the longest while can’t figure it out, and I replaced the rear sway bar bushings and end links and the new bushing on the right side is blown, haven’t gone under to see if the sway bar is ok or not. Car is sitting on bc racing clovers
Hey guys, my speed needs new suspension, and I want to get a coilover set. Any ideas? I'm not trying to break the bank getting ready for race wars, but I also don't want some crap racelands.
Hey I have a 1st gen mazdaspeed 3 and I think the motor is on its last legs but I can’t seem to find a decent replacement motor for it. Just wanted to see if anyone knew where I could get one I’m in NJ btw
As the title says, I’ve replaced all 3 mounts, all were definitely broken so I was getting a lot of engine movement and also a clunking sound which I assumed was because of one of the broken mounts. I just finished the transmission mount today which was the last one and although it fixed the jerkiness and engine movement, to my surprise I’m still hearing the clunk. It clunks when I engaged the clutch and when I release it. Any suggestions on what else it could be?
I’m not sure if it’s relevant to mention or not, but I also hear a similar clunk and sensation like something shifted when I release the handbrake sometimes.
Do i need to get the lower trim too for the grille?
I’m looking for my next car. Currently looking at a Mazda Speed 3 the issue is it has 190k miles bone stock has no issues I completely trust the seller. No accident reports. I heard the engines don’t rlly last that long I just want some fun for a couple yrs so I can get back on my feet, I’m in a rough situation rn.
I saw another post and all the comments were like no don’t get it, but can you plz explain why.
EDIT: Thank you all for the help. I realized I made it seem like I am completely screwed and I need a reliable af car. I’m not is that bad of a position where I just need to get to work and back. I am tight on funds but soonish I will be good to fix up (if needed) or rlly anything else that I might need
Hey I’m looking to buy Mazda speed 3 but I don’t know what to look out for and I don’t want to buy a car when I have to replace everything and spend a lot of money replacing.
My 2010 speed 3 threw a check engine light, and it’s a clogged catalytic converter. I didn’t relies how damn expensive it was to replace the OEM or a aftermarket high flow cat cost! Should I get a catless down pipe because it’s so much cheaper? What are the cons? Is it just for emissions for certain states or something?
As the title says, I just finished the transmission install and all the other parts you have to disconnect. All wires are reconnected and whatnot. When the key is turned, all the dash lights come on as they should but the engine won't even turn over.
Any thing I could be forgetting?
I've been doing a LOAD of work to my car, including a front mount intercooler. I just finished installing the hot and cold pipes, and went to install my blow off valve, and it's WAY too big to fit. I initially said screw it and was about to order the Corksport VTA BPV, but it's unavailable until late May apparently.
Finally I found the GFB respons T9002 which looks very appealing, apart from the fact I can't find any information on the height of the valve. Does anyone have the T9002 with the Corksport FMIC? If not, anyone with the T9002 would you mind measuring the height of the valve to see if I can run it? Looks like the max height of a valve I can run is 83mm.
In a bit of a bind right now so any help is greatly appreciated.
2010 speed 3 intake & hpfp, tuned. Not doing any more then that. Which plugs are best