I want to get into drifting but I want to know what is the cheapest car that can drift as im On a tight budget. Btw safety features are optional to me so if it's a Craigslist listing that runs well but has no seatbelts or airbags that alright with me

I just created r/findmeracing as a resource for helping newbies find motorsports events and collaborating with other disciplines to find all aggregator sites. I have noticed that Motorsportreg has quite a big gap in event listings, especially for drifting, my local event for example only exists those those in the local car community and who follow on insta.

I would love for some members here to join to help anyone that is looking for Drifting, or maybe find events in an area you're unfamiliar with! Currently the sub is empty but it should have many newbies sometime tomorrow.

Swapping an S14 subframe into an S13 chassis (common in Nissan 240SX/Silvia platforms) is a popular modification in the drifting and performance car community. Below is a detailed breakdown of the benefits, along with technical and practical considerations:

**1. Improved Suspension Geometry

• Rear Multi-Link Design:
  The S14 subframe retains the multi-link rear suspension but features revised geometry compared to the S13. The S14's control arm mounting points are optimized for better camber gain and toe stability during cornering, enhancing grip and predictability.
• Anti-Squat and Anti-Dive:
  The S14’s suspension pickup points are engineered to reduce unwanted body movement under acceleration (anti-squat) and braking (anti-dive), improving traction and weight transfer control.

**2. Stronger Differential Compatibility

• R200 vs. R180 Differential:
  The S14 subframe accommodates the larger R200 differential (vs. the S13’s smaller R180), which is stronger and better suited for high-torque applications (e.g., engine swaps, turbocharged setups, or aggressive drifting).
• Differential Mounting:
  The S14 subframe’s differential mounts are more robust, reducing flex and improving power delivery to the rear wheels.

**3. Increased Rigidity

• Subframe Construction:
  The S14 subframe is slightly beefier in design, with reinforced mounting points and thicker metal. This reduces chassis flex under load, improving handling precision and stability.
• Bushing Upgrades:
  Many S14 subframes come with factory bushings that are more durable than the S13’s, though polyurethane or solid bushings are often added during the swap for further stiffness.

**4. Wider Track Width

• Track Width Increase:
  The S14 subframe is approximately 10–20mm wider per side than the S13’s, depending on the model year. This wider track improves lateral stability and cornering grip.
• Axle Compatibility:
  The swap often pairs with S14 axles, which are stronger and better suited for high-power applications.

**5. Aftermarket Support

• Adjustable Arms:
  The S14 subframe is widely supported by aftermarket suspension arms (e.g., traction rods, toe arms, camber arms), allowing fine-tuning of alignment settings for competition or street use.
• Drift-Friendly Mods:
  The S14’s geometry is favored by drifters for its predictable breakaway characteristics and ease of tuning for angle and grip balance.

**6. Lower Center of Gravity

• Differential Positioning:
  The S14 subframe positions the differential slightly lower, lowering the car’s center of gravity for improved weight distribution and reduced body roll.

**7. Compatibility with Modern Components

• ABS and Brake Upgrades:
  The S14 subframe can more easily integrate ABS sensors or larger brake setups (e.g., Z32 brakes) if retained or upgraded.
• Easier SR20DET/Swap Integration:
  For engine-swapped S13s (e.g., SR20DET, RB, or LS engines), the S14 subframe simplifies drivetrain alignment and reduces the need for custom mounts.

Practical Considerations and Challenges

• Modification Requirements:
  The S14 subframe does not bolt directly into the S13. Modifications include:
  • Custom Subframe Bushings or Adapters: To fit the S14 subframe to the S13 chassis.
  • Driveshaft Adjustments: The S14 axles and differential may require a custom driveshaft or hybrid setup.
  • Fuel Tank Clearance: Minor trimming of the S13 fuel tank or heat shielding may be needed.
• Cost vs. Benefit:
  While the swap is beneficial for serious builds, it may be overkill for street-driven cars.

Conclusion

The S14 subframe swap is a performance-driven upgrade ideal for:

• Drift cars requiring predictable handling and durability.
• High-powered S13 builds needing a stronger differential and refined suspension.
• Track-focused setups where geometry and rigidity are critical.

While the swap requires effort and customization, the benefits in stability, strength, and tunability make it a favorite among Nissan enthusiasts aiming to maximize their chassis’ potential.

In short terms, I (20F) am hoping to make a drifting/JDM enthusiast friend in the DMV/Baltimore area, in person.
This is so embarrassing, sorry, I just need to get myself out there. I didn’t know where else to go for this kind of thing.

Anyways I’d really like to learn about drifting and JDM cars from other people, not the internet. Its just not how my brain works.
Truly, I don’t really know anything about it, I just know how amazing and fun it looks... There’s something about old toyotas & mazdas that really speaks to me… I took an auto mechanics class my senior year in HS but I forgot most of what I learned.

I’m hoping to make a friend or two in person who I can kind of tag along with and learn from if that makes sense, or at least find a way to involve myself in the culture.

I’m not interested in simulators or anything like that. I just wanna learn the old fashioned way, if you get my drift... (🤮)

I don’t have a car. Don’t know when I will or if I’ll ever get the chance to, but I’ve dreamed about it for years.

So please, if you’re near Baltimore MD and wouldn’t mind befriending a slightly dopey girl to talk about cars with, (IN PERSON I REPEAT) send me a message!🪱

Ive seen people pull a lever to start drifting but I watch videos and all they say is pressing the gas. Do i need to have parking breaks on? Im so lost very new to this

Drifting a torsen Miata, 15 inch Summers upfront, 14 inch Chinese special in the rear. Xida coils 700/400.

Track will be wet. I have a welded I can throw on and I know they're much better than torsens for drifting, but will I be alright with a torsen in the wet considering my set up?

I’ve recently discovered my interest for drifting, I’m 16 and want to learn how. What would be the best car to start with? Best modifications to start with? What is the best way to learn and gain experience? I am truly curious, so please only seriously answers.

Instead of using a hydro ebrake why don't people undo the lines on their front calipers and put a cap on them?

Hi I am based on Sydney and I am keen to learn how to drift but I don’t know where to start. Is BRZ ok for drifting? I am 24 yrs old F is it too late to learn? What are the requirements? Where can I learn? Where can I study? Does anyone know a trainer/school? And what drift sim do you guys use? And what rig? i have 0 knowledge at the moment but I am really keen. Any advice and tips will do 🥰 Thank you!

So I’m looking at getting some upgraded coilovers for my is300 and my calculated spring rates seem a little high. I’ve driven a lot of 9k/5k s chassis on assetto and really like how that feels so I wanted to get the same wheel rates on my car. Obviously everything is going to be slightly different because weight etc but I wanted something close to that. The spring rates I calculated were 28k front and 11k rear. I’m thinking I’ll probably go closer to 24k/14k just because that will be easier to find but if someone wants to check my calcs and confirm that sounds right I would appreciate it. I only track the car btw so I only care about performance, not ride quality or anything like that.

'sup

I had a bit of fun last night at a small roundabout (industrial area, truck u-turn bay at a dead end) just big enough for 1st gear shenanigans. While losing too much angle and almost straightening towards the high outside curb, I prepared for hard braking and while letting off the throttle completely my rear end loses grip again, swings around, allowing me to catch it again and continue the donut.

Could someone explain to why letting off the throttle broke the traction?

Car is a e46 325ti with a zf 2-way

My assumption is its because of the 2-way locking up on deceleration, but I'd like some insight from the more experienced people here.

Thx in advance

Hi everyone,

I currently have 225/40/18 tires mounted on 18x8.5 rims on my 350Z. I’m considering upgrading to larger tires like 255/40/18 and was wondering if this would fit without any issues (e.g., rubbing, clearance, or fitment problems).

Alternatively, I also have another set of rims, 7.5Jx18, and I’m curious if there’s an optimal tire size I could go for on those rims without any fitment concerns.

I’d appreciate any advice or experiences you could share, particularly regarding:

1. Clearance and rubbing with 255/40/18 tires on 8.5-inch-wide rims.
2. The best tire size to fit on 7.5Jx18 rims.
3. If i could use 245 or 255 / 45 /18 tires.

My Z is lowered but not slammed to the ground.