/r/Cartalk
The place to talk about your car
r/Cartalk is the original Reddit auto repair community, with over 650,000 subscribers and growing. We look forward to helping everyone with their car repairs and questions, but please take the time to read this sidebar.
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Be polite. Treat those asking for help with respect, and answer without bias toward them, their situation, or their knowledge (or lack thereof) about the repair issues. Also respect those that take the time to answer questions and remember that many are professional mechanics, who normally get paid very well to diagnose automotive repairs.
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Get OBD codes! If you have a Check Engine (CEL) or Service Engine (SEL) Soon light on, get the codes read and have them available if possible befoer posting. You can have codes read at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc., for free in most states. Write them down. They will have a letter followed by four numbers, for example "P1234". You can get a code reader from Amazon that works with 1996 and up vehicles for about $15. It will let you read and reset the codes.
Some examples of things that are NOT GENERALLY ALLOWED: links to articles or videos that are for profit, professional-level body work repairs, detailing or cleaning questions, aftermarket car stereo questions (/r/CarAV), car reviews (r/Cars), new & used vehicle recommendations, price comparisons for tires, stereos, exhaust, etc, and especially questions regarding cost of repairs or the legitimacy of a mechanic's quote. *
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Have as much information as you can about the issue before posting. Attempt to investigate the repair issue on your own. Take pictures, crawl under the car, look under the hood. By making a good attempt to narrow down where and what may be causing the problem you save those trying to help many steps in diagnosing the problem.** Be sure to also include the year, make, model and engine size of you car in your title, along with your main issue.** For example "2003 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L exhaust manifold bolts rusted off" would be an acceptable post title. If you do not take the time to include this basic information your post may be removed until it is revised.
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This is on the front brake caliper of my 2005 Mazda 6 . The bolt has rusted out so I cant get it off normally. Anyone have a solution for some like this.
Hey all I have a dead cylinder on my ranger (2.9 v6) we did a compression test, cylinders 3 and 4 had low compression as well. it had really high hydrocarbons and failed emissions but when we unplugged the injector on cylinder 2 it passed with flying colors. Is it the fuel injector or something else?
Multiple electrical issues. More issues presenting itself, so looking at purchasing a diagnostic tool as the local Mercedes service centre has changed to a different brand. Anyone have advice/experience with the car, Mercedes diagnostic tools recommendations? Currently looking at: V2024.10 MB Star Mercedes BENZ C6 Xentry Diagnosis VCI DOIP &AUDIO Pass Thru Multi Diagnostic Tool.
I’m trying to just replace the tail pipe muffler of my 91 camry and I’m wondering if i could use a muffler from a 92 camry.. I know there different generation but idk how different the actual exhaust is.
Hi, I’m looking for the VIN of a Bugatti Chiron 110 Ans (1NEE plate) but I can’t see it because I’m not a « specialist » member on the website. Can a specialist member look for it and give me the VIN ? Thanks !
About 2 months ago my Battery completely died, and we ended up needing to replace the alternator which we did. Car ran smoothly for the next 2 months. Fast forward about 4 days ago I go out to start my car again and the battery is completely dead again, can't unlock it with the fob, no lights no nothing. Take it into the shop they say it was just a "budget" battery and they replace that. So now today battery is completely dead again. Car is well taken care of, I make sure all light inside and out are turned off while not driving. I don't make any short drives so that wouldn't drain the battery. Does anyone out here have any idea what is wrong with my car?
Simple question.
How similar is a valved muffler to a muffler delete with a control.
Thanks
I have a 2012 Kia soul with a little over 100k miles and after riding in a friends car and getting back in mine I realized it's a pretty bumpy ride. Personally I'm pretty used to it and it doesn't bother me much, however I am worried about safety. Does this pose any major safety issues or is it just a comfort thing?
Please don’t mind the tacky stickers I am just looking to purchase a compact city car. Thank you!
Sorry to bother yall just curious on what yall think it might be. My car keeps fluctuating especially going uphill. I changed the battery/ terminal connections thinking it might be voltage problems and even looked at the airflow tubes thinking it might be choking and re did the whole thing but it keeps doing it. Maybe y’all have some suggestions?
looking into alternative vehicles for restomods, found this great looking Hyundai. Never seen one of these before, can anyone shed some light on what model/year this is? Thanks!
I went to Walmart a couple months back for an oil change. It was convenient and got other stuff done. Well I started to notice I’m leaking oil. Took it to Vavoline and told them what happened. They think it was a bad job by Walmart and they said they usually get a lot of their messed up jobs. They didn’t see any damage to the pan and they think they didn’t screw the filter on right. Got it changed yesterday and I’m noticing this morning it’s still leaking oil. Any ideas what the issue could still be?
I have a charger rt went to a oil spot today (u all probably heard of it not gonna name name)..,oil change $179 had the amount in my account gave him my card remember him saying something about there internet acting up..anyways they ran my card gave me a RECEIPT....mind u after I supposed to have paid I was still there for like 45min..he just called me like the pymt didn't go through...🤔🤔I don't know what to do......
I have a Peugeot 508 2011 with 1.6l e-hdi engine.
One day it refused to start, and shows error code
OBD Code P0263 - Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault And P0265 (same as above, for cyl 3)
I started measuring the injectors with my multimeter, and they all show open circuit. I'm pretty sure my multimeter works, I tested it in other places, and that shows correct resistance.
Is it possible that all injectors went bad at the same time? Or am I doing something wrong?
I'm thinking about buying my friends 2019 Chrysler 300 Touring L.
The only problem is that the car has 180k miles on it, but it's been serviced when needed, and it's in beautiful condition. My friend says he won it from an auction for $5k, and hes asking me $7k for the car. The previous owner used it for ubering, hence the milage.
Basically I just want to know how many miles it can take without major repairs. I'm hoping I can get 3-6 years of use before major problems arise. I have the Carfax and it shows no major repairs or accidents in the past.
Also is it better to buy a newer car with higher miles, or an older car with lower miles?
Thoughts?
I had new rotors and brake pads put on in June. It's November now and they still squeak when I stop slowly. I thought they would "break in" and stop squeaking, they sound like they did before the replacement.
Hi,to cut it short i want to DIY this thing, One person adviced using this spray..the others adviced sanding and using an undercoat paint.. I am not a pro but a bit short on cash so i need to DIY this thing,what do you advice? And which of these is better?
Anyone knows what this noise is? Thought it was originally the lower ball joints which were bad but after I got those replaced it still does this noise. The truck only does this after it hits a bump or has been parked for a while on an incline and only does This noise when turning and then at times after awhile it doesn't do it. It's weird the mechanic said it doesn't sound like any of the suspension and my control arms don't have any play. The noise only comes from the driver side and I can sometimes feel the floor beneath my foot vibrate. My car isn't handling bad or anything so not sure what this could be. Vehicle is a 2002 Chevy suburban 1500 2 wheel drive
So, in my old car, the back left disk brake is dragging a bit.
With the car lifted and no brakes applied I can turn the wheel by hand with a bit of resistance, and when I stop turning it, it stops right away. While driving, that wheel's brake gets hot.
With the car lifted, if I push the brake pedal the wheel stops dead as it should, and releasing it, it rotates again with that same bit of resistance.
The same if I use the handbrake.
Meaning, the caliper moves at least to some degree, but may not come back the whole way(?).
I checked the brake fluid reservoir, and it is on the high mark. I opened its lid just in case and it had no effect on the dragging of that wheel.
What do you guys think is the problem, what should I check and how would I go fixing it?
Thanks in advance.
So I bought an Android multimedia and it came with a reverse camera so I decided to install it too.
Here is a quick summary of 2 minutes of how I connected it(video).
The problem is that it works but not always. When I start the car for the first time for the day, it does not work. When I turn it off and turn it on let's say after 2-3 minutes, the camera starts working.
What could be the reason?
I have a 2007 Mazda 6 that has been a headache for a long time. It leaks oil (which the seller didn't tell me about) and no one I've brought it to has been able to find the source. I've been able to keep it running, however, by regularly checking the dipstick and adding more in when needed. This has been a decent enough fix for a while but recently, I saw that it was low and added two quarts to level it out.
As soon as I started driving, smoke started pouring out from the tail pipes and totally covering the road behind me. I got it towed and my mechanic said it was a problem with the engine, so 700 dollars later, everything seemed fine. It ran just about the same as usual and I drove about 200 miles before checking the oil and topping it off again...at which point smoke flooded the street behind me.
Again.
The car's not really good to drive when it happens and although it runs, its either super sluggish or super jerky on the accelerator. I was able to pull it in somewhere and off the road but that about all it seemed capable of. Both times the smoke was white but the first was a bit more black/grey and the second was snow white.
I know the car is probably just done but I want to know what's wrong with it and why I wasted all that money at the mechanic when the problem came back a week later. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm just really frustrated with this thing and trying to figure it out.
Hey yall, my check engine light came on yesterday on my 2007 Corolla. It has 143,000 miles and I changed the sparkplugs less than 20k miles ago. I also have the gas cap on correctly and oil level+ oil color is normal. it doesn’t run bad at all and in fact is pretty much how it was new. Anyone have ideas on what it could be? I think a belt might need replacing but think I did one not too long ago, and there’s no weird noises or anything. Doesn’t run hot. I’m taking it to the shop in the morning but don’t wanna go in blind so as not to be scammed. Thanks!
Hello everyone. I have a 2016 A6 2.0T. I changed my spark plugs when the ground wire that connects to the connector of the ignition coil broke while I was loosening the nut. I am trying to install the EQT ground kit but I cannot locate a ground where the short wire harness can be placed on.
So using the website cardiagn, I found a few ground locations using their wire diagram/ground locator page. It shows there's one on the right engine compartment, near the alternator.
-I uploaded a picture from the website of where the ground is located near the alternator.
-Another picture of the ignition coil location (one red circle), which is where I want to replace the ground with EQT ground kit.
-The picture showing two red circles, which are the only two factory ground locations I have found (which are too far away for the EQT wire harness since it's short)
-The other pictures are of the location of the alternator and right below it (I tried to take a picture further below but I don't see any bolts/wires there so I doubt there is a ground further below).
Anyone know where on the "right, near the alternator" is this ground? It would be closest to attach the EQT ground wire too.
alternator (and it's surrounding)
behind and below the alternator
the only two spots I have found factory ground but EQT harness won't reach
ignition coils that I want to replace grounds with EQT harness
Drivers seat the back part won't move at all its completely locked. We have tried just about everything!