/r/Cartalk
The place to talk about your car
r/Cartalk is the original Reddit auto repair community, with over 650,000 subscribers and growing. We look forward to helping everyone with their car repairs and questions, but please take the time to read this sidebar.
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Be polite. Treat those asking for help with respect, and answer without bias toward them, their situation, or their knowledge (or lack thereof) about the repair issues. Also respect those that take the time to answer questions and remember that many are professional mechanics, who normally get paid very well to diagnose automotive repairs.
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Get OBD codes! If you have a Check Engine (CEL) or Service Engine (SEL) Soon light on, get the codes read and have them available if possible befoer posting. You can have codes read at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc., for free in most states. Write them down. They will have a letter followed by four numbers, for example "P1234". You can get a code reader from Amazon that works with 1996 and up vehicles for about $15. It will let you read and reset the codes.
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*Remember that posting here is not a substitute for using Google. Most repairs have already been covered multiple times somewhere in great depth that will satisfy your needs. YouTube has many helpful topics. *
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Have as much information as you can about the issue before posting. Attempt to investigate the repair issue on your own. Take pictures, crawl under the car, look under the hood. By making a good attempt to narrow down where and what may be causing the problem you save those trying to help many steps in diagnosing the problem.** Be sure to also include the year, make, model and engine size of you car in your title, along with your main issue.** For example "2003 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L exhaust manifold bolts rusted off" would be an acceptable post title. If you do not take the time to include this basic information your post may be removed until it is revised.
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Hello! I own an lexus gs 300 2006. The issues i'm having are strange. Sometimes when I start the car, try to start driving and put in R to turn - the engine turns off and wheel blocks, cant use any gear and cant restart the car. Battery icon pops up but im 100% sure its not battery because its brand now. And the issue happens rarely but still is happening. My friend told it could be the immobilizing device which is attached to keys and somewhere in the engine. To get out of this situation I have to bang the immobilizer a few times no too hard or use shift lock to get in gear and hopefully the car lets me restart and start driving. Whats the solution here? Also I found out that when I start the car if there is no beep sound the engine will stop because it cant read the immobilization device?
Just made a pop and bang tune for one of my cars. The car is straight piped from the primary cats back (will be gutting them before loading the tune), and I intend to add a muffler just so it’s not too insanely loud. Will a pop and bang tune ruin a glass packed muffler like a Magnaflow? Id like answers from people with actual experience with this, no keyboard warriors. And don’t tell me about how bad this is for my engine and the environment, don’t care i’ll put a new engine in if I have to! :)
Toyota Yaris 2007 sedan.
I have an opel corsa D that i suspect a bad worn out starter is causing the car to not start. Im planing on changing it but theres not enough space for me to get under it and work on it properly, i dont think i trust a car jack when theree a huge hunk of metal that will kill me instanly on top of me. Can someone also help me indentify if its really the starter?
Told him he needed to fix the problem but kept arguing with me trying to say that when my car came in before the brake job that it was showing codes related to abs and my e brake. I was never having issues nor did I have any codes/dash lights related to my e-brake. He’s not able to fix it and is unable to and told me to take it to Honda.
Scanner saying left rear actuator circuit open.. Did he break something? Charged $672 to do all four with an oil change…. What can I do?
I was at a red light and my car was vibrating a bit and I heard and felt the bass what sound system is the person 1 car behind me was running?
Specifically for those who have done the bi-LED retrofit like the NHK, Morimoto MLED, etc where the fan sits inside the housing. Does it warm up your stock housings? I get real winter here and it would be nice if they got warm enough to melt off ice. I know LED drop in bulbs don't get warm at all but their heat sink stays outside the housing.
I mean this tire is just absolutely destroyed, luckily I was right next to a convenience store where I could safely change it. Was a real pain though because of the way it's designed, you have to hold the wheel in place while screwing in the first couple bolts.
Okay so I was lucky enough to run over a massive slab of concrete that was dropped on the highway 🙃 my tires and underneath looked okay minus a little damage to my front bumper and my engine cover got ripped off. But theres this sound coming from what sounds like the back of my car when I'm driving but stops when the car does. Any ideas to what that might be? I drive a 2020 nissan rouge.
I have a 2018 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport 15T MT. I want to get a catback that sounds deep and has rumble to it, but not insanely loud (I’m in cali so I don’t want to give a cop a reason to give me a ticket). I’m new to modding, besides adding a subwoofer to my car I haven’t done anything to my car. Do you guys have any suggestions?
I got an car accident and lost control of the car (in Yosemite national park) I noticed before the Overdrive shift light turned off before the accident but I ignored it. Could this have caused the accident? Or am I looking too much into it
This may not be a situation that can be fixed by anything other than changing the filter in less than a 3 month span but, I thought I would take it to reddit. We live in a very rural area so mice in the air filters is a common issue for all 3 cars in our driveway. Replacing cabin air filters is getting tiring but, it comes with the climate and area we live in. I was wondering if anybody who has the same issue, have found solutions? (Ex. some kind of natural repellent that mice want to run from instead of making our cars their home). We have done the mice traps when it happens to the filters but, also want something that will steer the mice completely away. Thank you in advance!
Any thoughts on what this might be? Belt seems tight enough, would be very surprised if power steering fluid caused this much noise. Super loud in the cabin.
Relatively new car (to me), but the noise is definitely new if not a lot louder than when I got it.
My 2005 Honda Accord V6 is making this weird sound all of a sudden. Can someone please give me some advice or help me figure out what it is. My car only has 31,000 miles and never had an issue till now. Thanks!
My sister's 2006 Toyota RAV4 has a timing cover leak. The labor time to fix it is 18 hours, with the total cost being almost $2,000, not including parts. Is it worth repairing the timing cover on an 18 year old car? The leak isn’t affecting dripping onto anything other than the upper and lower oil pan. Could I attempt a DIY fix, if so any advice on how to do so, or should I just leave it and keep the oil topped off?
i get a squealing noise in my car when the engine’s cold so first thing in the morning it always goes off. lasts about 10-15 seconds and then goes away until the engine gets cold again. usually when it’s hot out it won’t, but i find when parked slightly up/downhill it still will. people have said brake pads need replacing (have had the front ones replaced but not the rear so could still be the case) or lubricant spray. i’m not sure exactly what the case is. any ideas would be super helpful 😊
When i’m in any low gear (1st,2nd) sometimes 3rd, it has a buffer/stutter like noise for a few seconds after acceleration then goes away. Doesn’t seem like a huge problem just wondering if they’re any suggestions on what it could be?
Got the dreaded “Charging System” error/warning message on my way home from work yesterday in my 2009 F150 FX4. I pulled the battery and had it checked and since it was bad, I went ahead and replaced it.
I installed the new battery and then checked the voltage when the truck was running (around 12.08), so then I realized the alternator might be the issue. I disconnected the battery overnight so it wouldn’t drain.
Today I replaced the alternator and the light temporary went away. By this evening, the light is back and my lights are dimming/flickering when it’s running. The battery still checks at around 12v when the truck is off and around 14 when the truck is running.
I’m at a loss on what to check next. I’m wondering if I need to hook up to a computer/diagnostics tool to clear the codes? Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated.
First, I know nothing about cars. Garage had some smoke and smelled like burnt plastic. Seemed to have narrowed down to something under the hood of this Subaru Crosstrek. The part I circled in red felt a little warm to the touch and was making a little noise, very quiet. Hasn’t been driven in 3-4 hours and it’s probably 30 degrees in my garage. What is this part? Anything else that could smell like burnt plastic? I did have a road trip today, 4 hours of total driving. Made an appointment for tomorrow to have it looked at… and parked it outdoors for the night.
hey guys - today my car decided it wanted to take a quick nap. i was driving about 40mph when all of a sudden, my check engine light came on and 2 seconds later, i could no longer accelerate (rmps bottomed out to 0). i went to shift into the turning lane to get out of the main road - noticed that my steering wheel felt stiff. tried putting car in neutral and noticed the pedal was also stiff. shut it off, turned it back on and was able to drive while the check engine light stayed on. after about 3 hours, i was driving and it did it again. also around 40mph. NO RADIO PLAYING, NO HEAT OR AC ON. clearly the engine is losing power and shutting down... any ideas on what this could be/if its a common issue? thank you in advance!
So im not sure if this is normal or not but I just barely got a new tire on my right rear (Nissan versa 2018) 1 year ago and today when i went to discount tire for a free air check, they told me that it was at a "4" which is in the yellow range and thats bad apparently, and they recommended I get an alignment check because of the uneven wear. Does this sound right? Im not educated about cars at all and normally my dad would take care of my car but he recently passed. So i just wanted to make sure that all of this sounds legit and would bad alignment explain why the tire wore down so fast?? It has only been 1k miles since they put the tire on and that was only 1 year ago. It just seems crazy that it would wear down so fast! I dont have money to replace my tires every year.
Hey everyone!
I’m hoping to receive some input on here as the mechanic can’t get my car in until the 12th, which sucks because I work about everyday.
The guy that I bought my car from this summer told me the vehicle could use a new battery probably before winter—once it began to get cold it was clear it needed one as my vehicle was struggling to start every time I got in it. I eventually got a new battery and my car started better than ever for about two weeks. I just recently went out of town and let my friend borrow my vehicle, and while it was with them the battery just died overnight. I figured they just accidentally left a light on or something, but now the battery won’t stay charged and I have to boost my car to start it every time.
Could there be a chance the battery is defective? A lot of my family members are saying it could be my alternator and I’m just really hoping that isn’t the case.
Apparently because of the rust my back brake light won't turn on, I tried to take it off with WD40 and a knife (yes I took the bulb out and there was rust in the socket) but I haven't been able to get all of it. Is there an easy way to take it all off? Will it work if I do idk if the rust messed it up to the point where I gotta replace the part Car is an Audi A3 8V 2013 btw
Recently I noticed an intermittent squealing sound coming from my engine. It is definitely not the best as I’ve driven a lot of shitboxes in my life and know that sound, plus this thing only has 57k miles on it. The sound gets worse during wet driving conditions for some reason.
The second issues is a horrible miss but only at idle. I took it into the local Kia dealer to have the hydraulic control module for the brakes taken care of due to a recall, it could short out and catch fire at any time. After they did the work is when this issue showed up, my buddy thinks it could be a coil pack acting up but there is no CEL popping up so I can at least run a scan. I am going to be talking to the dealership about this on Friday and see if they are willing to take care of it due to it not being an issue until they touched it
Any ideas would be great
2006 Legacy 2.0NA 5speed Manual. Ever since i bought this car used it has had this chirping sound from around the flywheel or exhaust manifold(not sure), when idling and up to 1000 rpm when driving. Mostly when the car is warm. The sound doesn't change when pushing the clutch pedal, that's why it's odd to me that it comes from the flywheel. Has someone had anything like this in a DMF?
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Hi, within the next week I am wanting to get my rav4 MOTed. At the moment it it SORNed since it has been sat on the drive for a while. After I have got its MOT I will put back on the drive for a month or two before I use it. If I drove it straight to the MOT and back home would i need to tax it. ChatGPT said I can be it couldn't get me any proof of this. Does anyone know if this is true and if it is do you have any proof of it.