I’m having trouble looking for a shift bushing for my manual 5 speed because when I put my transmission in 3rd or any other gear it’s really floppy and read that this bushing could fix it but each time I try to find one it’s all for the auto version of my truck and there is nothing online for a manual, I was told it’s a bushing under the stick shift but at the same time the internet keeps telling me it’s a linkage bushing, does any one here know where I could get one or is this bushing only for autos and my synchros are just toast? any advice is helpful.

Brought my car to Lexus to have my steering checked out

Have a code U0101 for my 2019 Chevrolet Equinox, 1.5L, automatic 6 speed. I've looked but am unable to find where the transmission control module is located. Tried Google and YouTube with no avail. Anyone point me to its location? On a side note it's at its second auto shop with them trying to figure it out. Thanks

Hello, I'm wondering what are the most current and safest ways to exchange payment when selling a car privately? Or if anyone can share their experience of the process?

Yesterday I got in my truck (2008 dodge ram 1500 4.7) to go to work like normal, it started fine. I put it in gear to back out and the RPMs just ramped up and it didn't move at all. I put it in neutral and drive and the same thing, it acted like it was in park basically. I got scared maybe it was low on transmission fluid and didnt want to sit there and dry shift it. (I have actually ruined a transmission in a work truck before, shifting in and out of various gears not realizing it had drained all of its transmission fluid!)

I checked the dipstick, it's not low. It's actually overfull. (I have just realized the simple importance of checking the damn fluid) I looked at the lines and the area underneath and I don't see any drippage.

--My main question is-- Is my next option to replace the solenoid? ($375 for the part at O'Reillys) OR do you think it would be worth it to first drain the transmission fluid and replace?

Any other feedback would be awesome. I haven't done any other diagnostics. I blame the 5 inches of overnight surprise snow for not wanting to shimmy under there 😆

My other option would be towing it to a mechanic, as I don't think I'll be able to get it into neutral (???) But if I can figure it out on my own I'd be super into learning

Is200 won't start, had a jump start and after roughly 6~ mins of driving car shut off, we have confirmed that the battery is dead, but I think it has to be more then just that if the car shut off whilst running? there is a sound system in the car, described as "2 fat jbl subs" unfortunately don't have exact info about that. Also wondering if it's the alternator would a new, higher output one be the best option?

My engine nearly stalled after startup earlier today. I had to keep my foot on the throttle for it to idle for about 30 seconds before it could hold idle on its own. Weird thing is it just happened the one time and i’ve driven it several times since. No issues. When it happened, i had just driven back home from work and parked it for about 45 minutes before starting it again.

I’ve been suspicious of the fuel pump as it seems louder than before and i’ve had occasional hesitation on acceleration and rough idle until the engine is warm. I went and bought a new one but havent installed it yet.

Any thoughts what would cause that problem other than a fuel pump? Note: I recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator because it was leaking.

I’m just curious but I think the last person who did pads on my new to me 2012 is250 awd installed the wrong pads because the brackets are loose and the squeak real bad, so I just want to know the exact specs of these CarQuest OB9295FF P908 008D1N22 pads. Would they even fit if my calipers at 60-32 cast and these are 60-28 cast?

Any advice?

These are the problems in my suv right now as per my mechanic. 2003 lincoln navigator 5.4 litre v8 2 valve. 111,000 miles

Total is around $2100 and I only have a budget for $500-$700every 1-2 months. So thinking of doing it in 3-4 phases.

Car otherwise drives fine but vibrates/hesitates in speeds 50mph and up. I would just like for it to be safe and reliable in the winter.

What should I do first? I would definitely like to do the serpentine belt first regardless.

I was thinking:

1. Serpentine belt, CV boot, inner tie rod

2. rear sway bar links, spark plug and ignition

3. air ride compressor- is this even necessary?

Sorry i just don’t know anything about cars

My wife's Nissan won't proximity unlock or start. It also won't unlock or lock with the remote buttons. It seems to work fine when the key is manually used to lock/unlock and when the fob is inserted. I have tried replacing the battery in the fob, I have purchased this new key kit and programmed the fob. It now functions exactly like the one we already had. I have replaced the car battery and attempted to disconnect the battery for 2 minutes and reconnect all while the key fobs are inside the car.

I've run out of troubleshooting options that seem to meet the issues I'm having so any feedback would be appreciated.

Thank you.

It’s spraying a liquid I presumed to be coolant everywhere

Last month while installing new led bulbs,I had key turned to on position for a few minutes to test bulbs and after a while (battery low start vehicle)showed up on dash but I ignored it for a minute and when I tried turning it on the battery was dead so I jumpstarted it and battery light was on with (service battery charging system) its was pretty late so I just turned it off and went to bed.Next morning battery was completely dead and since then battery has been dying if it sits for a whole day.Ive replaced alternator and battery is less than a year old.Ive noticed negative battery terminal gets hot at times so I’m not sure if it’s a bad cable or bad connection.

2012 silverado

I recently bought a 02 nissan sentra. When I got it the guy told me that the Rpm and Temp gauge has a problem of getting stuck or just shooting up randomly.

And during our test drive it did get stuck in place. Recently I noticed it again being stuck especially on the Temp gauge. Took it to the mechanics and got oil and coolant changed and filled aswell as the radiator checked and was told its fine. I've had the car for about 2 months and haven't had any overheating problems. Could it just be a sensor or gauge problem?

I haven't seen any leaks, air works fine, and engine isnt overheating. Just the gauge is a little wonky frome what he said and what I'm seeing so I wanna try to get advice.

2000 Honda Accord, I don't know the engine type (it's stock afaik) but the 8th digit of the VIN is 4. I hope this is enough info, I read the rules carefully.

As you can see, the dashboard button lights do turn on when the headlights are on, but the on/off indicator lights above the buttons have been randomly not working. Meaning that often when the car turns on, there's no way to tell if the AC, defroster, foot warmer, etc is actually turned on or not, nothing happens when you press the button. They might start working after several minutes to an hour, they might not work at all, or they might work all day without a problem. This has been going on for a couple of weeks.

Any ideas? My experience with cars is zero and my experience with electronics is minimal, I'm thinking a loose wire or a battery issue?

Thanks in advance!

My 2009 Toyota Matrix, engine model 2ZR-FE. Check engine light turned on, and the engine started shaking/vibrating non-stop. Took it to my local mechanic shop to get it fixed. Right away, the diagnostic cost $125. They determined that the spark plug and the ignition coils were the cause. I needed to replace the spark plug and all four ignition coils. My final total for the parts, labor and tax is $860.60. Car runs just fine after. When I got home, I decide to look at the prices for parts that needed to fix the car, and it was much cheaper than what they charged me. After that, I feel like this could’ve been done at a much cheaper price. I am no mechanic, maybe I’m just an idiot and the amount I got charged is the right amount. What do you guys think?

Diagnostic: $125

Spark Plugs: $81

Coils: $415

Labor to remove and replace spark plugs and coils: $190

Tax: 49.60

Final Total: $860.60

It's my truck and it's my fault. First time having to get it towed and a couple of times I hopped out after putting it in park only to realize it should have been in neutral. Thankfully I wasn't stupid enough to be towed all the way across town in park, but I did get pulled a few feet. Is there anything I should check specifically or worry about specifically as a result of this failure?

Also I will say being the driver while getting towed on a chain is kind of nerve wracking. Props to people who can do it well. We only had to go 4-5 miles and I think I actually did okay. Only a few jerks, I kept the chain tight, mostly. I don't think my truck was damaged on the way over, at all. But when we got to the place where we were going to store it there was a lot of getting in and out of the truck and two times I left it in park on accident. I think it was pulled 2-3 feet at most across a gravel road while in park.

Anyway, should I be really worried or is it probably ok?

EDIT: Just read the rules. It's a 2003 Ford F150 ummm, I'm not sure of the engine it's at my brother's house right now, I think 5.4v L V8 but don't hold me to that. I'm not sure it matters much. It's got 4 doors. My question, I think, is more general than that.

New tiros were installed then swapped believing there was a radial pull. After the second set of new tiros the left veer improved but remained and changed a bit. The car would drive straight at times or left depending the slope of the road. The car used to drive very straight and never waivered with the old set. When the old set were new I didn't have any issues.

Tried just about everything and my mechanic can't figure it out:

• No steering wheel shakes/rattles/vibration and moves smooth
• Alignment was checked at two separate shops and found spot on. Minor corrections made within spec to reduce left hand veer.
• Brakes checked and no issues found. All within tolerance and no brake rubbing.
• suspension parts checked and nothing.
• no leaks anywhere in the car and no issues found anywhere.

What am I dealing with here? Some suspension component that is on the verge of failure but not there yet? It's really annoying and a bother on the highway. Any help is appreciated!