Any idea if this is important?

I've been way too rough on my car. 2008 dodge caliber SE. 1.8 Tried to take off like an idiot and apparently my car has had enough of that recently. Wasn't even off the clutch all the way before it grenaded itself. Luckily it's the easiest fix for everything that could have gone wrong here.

Amazon seems only to sell 4-packs, but I just need one. Is there a good place online to purchase hubcaps? I don't want to pay the full OEM price, but I'd like one with the Honda badge, if possible.

The part # is 44733TBAA23.

Thanks in advance!

my car is 2006 hyundai elantra. if car gear is set to P or to D + braking, its idling is rough, ,there is strong un-even vibration. But if car idles + moving forward slowly without braking, the car is very quiet and smooth. What is the possible reasons?

by the way, I use OBD monitor the idling speed, which is 700+/-10, very stable.

Hello, I’m not great with cars (obviously) and I wanted to get some general advice. My Subaru Impreza engine light came on, and my friend’s code reader didn’t give me a clear answer so I just took it to my local mechanic. They quoted me $685 for parts and labor to replace the leak detection pump on top of the $160 diagnostic fee. Does that seem like a fair price? I’m pretty broke but need my car for commuting.

Reposted with the alignment sheet.

So l got a new set of tires today at 25k miles on my 2023 Camry 2.5L FWD. I was only able to rotate them once bc l hit a pothole at roughly 7500k which sliced a hole in my sidewall of the front right tire.

Only had that one tire replaced to a different tire type (bc the original tire wasn't in stock at the time) which sat in the rear right axle for its whole life until it was replaced today. Didn't rotate them because of the mix matched tire type and wear on the rear axle.

Ever since I hit the pothole and got that one tire replaced the car always had the tendency to drift right when I let go of the wheel. So I assumed it was either the new tire that got replaced or the pothole caused the alignment to be off. So then at 25k my front axles tires were toasted so l decided to get all the tires replaced and get an alignment done as well to see if that fixes the problem.

I've driven with the new tires and alignment for over an hour on freeways and city roads and the car still drifts right.

Had the tire shop double check alignment and they said there was nothing else they could do since it was all green. They suggested that the pothole could've caused the right strut to leak which is why the car drifts right.

I'm hoping to get a second opinion to see what could be happening here.

Thanks!

I have a 2012 LS Silverado and I wanted to upgrade to the LT gauge cluster which my local junk yard has several of for a decent price compared to eBay, however I don’t want to suddenly make it appear as though my vehicle has a ton of miles on it. I’ve read that the mileage and stuff is stored on the cluster itself so I wouldn’t expect it to automatically know what my truck actually has, but is there a way I could get it to be reprogrammed to display the accurate number or is that only possible with a brand new unit?

Thanks!

Hello,

I am needing new tires but I cannot currently afford 4 new tires. I know it's not good to only get one at a time because it can mess with the balance of the car, but I can only afford 2 for the time being. My car is a 2021 Honda Insight and I believe it is a front wheel drive car. If I can get 2 tires for the time being and 2 in a month or 2, should I replace the front or back tires first? TIA

My Astra G MK4 has no warm air blowing through the vents. When i turn the switch to max heat position the windows start fogging. I have replaced the thermostat, took out the small cabin radiator, cleaned it, checked the coolant level, it's adequate and nothing has worked so far. The two pipes that go to the radiator are also flaming hot, but there's no warm air AT ALL. Sometimes it's warmish and as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts blowing freezing cold air again

obviously cars have made massive progess in the past 20 years , but ive seen a lot of old cars make good power with tuning and mods etc .

im wondering if there are any older cars that could give modern performance vehicles a run for their money given the right tuning ( no engine swaps )

if so which car(s)?

Is the nail (circled in red) still in the tread area? Will shops be able to fix it, or not?

My wife's '17 Outback has had issues starting intermittently that pop up when it gets cold. Its cold here in Minnesota (around 40F), but not that cold. When attempting a start, I get three clicks and no crank. the battery is 3yrs old and I thought the potential problem. I charged it until it read out 12.5V and then attempted again with he same result. That made me think it was the starter, but the car DOES start when jumped. I took the battery to O'Reilly and had it charged and tested - good battery but 25% life remaining.

Given the above troubleshooting, is it reasonable to assume the starter is the culprit? I would pull the starter and bench test it, but given that its an intermittent failure, I worry that such a test would be inconclusive.

Thanks!

Hey car guys and gals, I got a screw in my tire, dealership said it couldn’t be patched and I need to get 4 new tires because the tires are currently at 5mm.

It’s not currently losing any air, so do I A) try and get a patch kit, B) leave the screw in or C) buy new tires?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

I bought new 200tw tires maybe 400miles before this but on my way home from work I noticed I was losing air in one.

Pulled over within a mile without it even fully flat and put on a spare.

took the tire to get a patch and was cleared as the location was dead center but they noticed a little bit of fuzz on the inside of the wheel. They ended up denying the repair because of inside sidewall damage, this was at discount tire.

I saw the damage and thought it was extremely miniscule, no damage to the sidewall just the small bit of fuzz.

Regardless, I want to just clean out the fuzz and bring it back to my main shop to have a plug put in, so I don't waste the brand-new tire I bought.

what is the possibility that the tire is compromised, even with the little damage done.

id at least like to keep it as a spare.

I noticed a leak in my power steering oil under the car. I am curious, what could it be and how expensive would it be? Thanks.

Almost had a heart attack - I've been having some transmission issues lately; the car will move into Drive but won't actually move or engage gear until about 20-30 seconds later and If I'm stuck in traffic in 1st gear - there's a weird sound that comes from the Tranny so I put it in neutral.

Today though - I was going slowly and turning when suddenly the steering wheel locks as if the car is in Park and I can't move the car. Warning lights came on. I shut down the car and restarted it and everything was fine. I drove slowly home but I assume I shouldn't drive the car again until I inspect the gearbox?

Car is a 2006 Nissan Sunny N16

GM posted a technical service bulletin regarding this issue. The axel must be fixed!

The full repair should be covered under warranty. I just had mine repaired by a Chevy shop this week.

THE REAL MVP -- answer found here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2020-2022-chevy-equinox-front-end-wobble.383913/

Redditor u/TotalKatastrophy posted his issue here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/197nzkq/2021_chevy_equinox_vibrating_when_accelerating/

And here by u/Cubes84
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/102g6bk/2021_chevy_equinox_lt_shake/

Is this Dodge Ram Van (Chevy V8) a good buy? Advice needed!

Hi everyone,

I’m considering buying a Dodge Ram Van with a Chevy V8 engine that has 35,707 km. I don’t know much about cars and I’m wondering if this is a good deal. The price seems cheap, which makes me question why that might be.

Here are some additional details:

• Condition: Looks good in pictures, no visible rust, interior seems clean.
• Year: 1978
• Price: 8500€

I’d appreciate any advice or things I should look out for, especially regarding potential mechanical issues or hidden costs with this type of vehicle. Should I go for it or be cautious?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I have a 95 Hilux top speed on dash is 160 I have a 2y 1.8L engine Running 225/60/15 in the rear Diff ratios is somewhere from 4.5-3.9 I think 5th gear ratio Is 0.853:1 I can hit roughly 157ish quite possibly 160 on the dot with the assist of downhill acceleration this gives me roughly about 5krpm but the rpm gauge is 8k Not sure if I have a limiter (doubt it) but bounces off 7k (redline) in nutural. Can someone explain why I can reach my top speed on my dash but no higher despite having theoretically 3k more revs left before redline in 5th gear? Is it because my peak HP is at 5k rpm?