I’m buying a used car in North Carolina this week, but I will be moving to San Jose, California in January (because of my job). I have some questions about registration and taxes and would really appreciate your advice:

1. Taxes: I’ve heard that if you buy a car in one state and move to California, you might have to pay additional taxes in California. Is this true? Can I avoid paying the taxes in NC by skipping registration here and just registering it directly in CA when I move? Also, since I recently sold my old car, can I pay taxes on just the price difference?
2. Registration: The car title will be in my name, but I’m planning to co-sign with my wife so we can register the car in NC before the move. If I want her name listed first on the registration (while I remain the sole owner on the title), is that possible?
3. Temporary Plan: My current idea is to keep the NC plates and drive with them in CA for up to a year, claiming I’m there temporarily for visits or work. Later, when my wife moves to CA with me, I’d transfer the registration to California. Would this work to avoid paying California taxes immediately, or would I run into legal trouble?
4. Toll: are there many tolls around San Jose, and the Bay Area?

I’m trying to understand the best approach to handle taxes and registration legally without overpaying. Any advice or experience would be super helpful. Thanks!

The only reason I’m asking is because I just got these tyres put on and after I’d worn off the shiny layer new tyres have, I took it on a high speed run and hit 130mph, but the car felt pretty unstable at this speed. Which is weird because prior to these tyres going on, it felt perfectly planted at 155mph.

So I was a little confused, google says Y speed rating is the maximum rating and it’s good for 186mph, but I just doubted myself and wanted someone else to tell me if I’m being stupid - the Y after 98 there IS the speed rating, isn’t it?

I thought maybe if the tyre was a lower speed rating that would explain the instability at speed. It’s an all season tyre (Michelin CrossClimate 2) so it’s obviously not a super sporty tyre, but surely it should still be able to handle high speed like this?

If I’m right I’m thinking that Y is the speed rating, then I’ll have to start playing around with my tyre pressures incase this tyre prefers to be at a different pressure to what my old summer tyres were.

Hey yall need some help, I tried to jump start our 2014 Hyundai Elantra today after it refused to start yesterday morning. Obviously it didn’t start. The dash still lights up fine, even the radio and ac turn on. It just won’t turn over. It did something similar 2 weeks ago, but after a few tries it turned over and didn’t give any more issues till yesterday. This had prompted us to go get an oil change. Also the battery is fairly new, got it in the summer.

Would love any advice, we both have jobs with diverse schedules so we can’t rely on one car for long.

I own a 2023 Honda CR-V and I feel like I am being nickle and dimed. I would like to know what maintenance I can reasonably do myself as someone with zero car knowledge. I just changed my wipers and filled up the wiper fluid and for some reason that created this drive to figure out more things I can do myself (I know, I know, wipers and wiper fluid is the easiest thing you can do... but I grew up with a dad who wasn't around and girls just aren't taught these things sometimes). I have a light on in my car that says I need an oil and oil filter change, transmission fluid, and brake fluid, plus a tire rotation. That is going to cost me around $600 at Honda. What are some things that I can do myself on my car?

Lexus RX 350hybrid luxury trim 2025 model - put a deposit on it with condition to be able to back out. Vehicle would be made in January.

Price 69k plus taxes, dealership fees.

I'm a female, no kids. Vehicle would be for me. I went to the dealership considering NX model but RX felt more comfortable.

This would be my first SUV. Trying to do the research on my own, but there's too many makes, models and features to consider.

My priorities are safety, reliability and decent value retention (I'd keep this car for up to 5 years) Hybrid if it requires premium gas. Small or midsize suv. Up to 80k price.

Any suggestions, advice and information welcome.

I'm trying to bring back to life a 1985 SAAB 900i that has been sitting in a garage for 20 years. So far I've lubricated the cylinders, put some 9 liters of gas in it and tried starting it up. After 31 tries (which dried a brand new battery) it won't start. The engine seems to rotate without any issues, the distributor sparks and by now the fuel system should have fuel in it. Next I'll check if the fuel is getting to the injectors and after that I'll check the single spark plugs for spark. If that is not the issue I don't know what else to try.

I am iso a brake booster (Cardone 54-73186) for a 1987 Renault Alliance GTA. They are out of stock everywhere. If anyone can find one available for purchase in the US, you may receive a cash reward. I'm pretty desperate, I've looked nearly everywhere I can by myself.

I have Toyota Camry 2007, milage 159683. In a car history I found that last time transmission was served when it had 59000. Should I worry. Similar situation for minivan Sienna 2005. Transmission fluid was changed at 60000 and now it's around 167000.

Bought the car today and was wondering if it’s worth doing some atheistic mods to it. It’s also my first car lol

Considering getting a XC90 to replace my 2019 VW atlas. The atlas has been a total headache and costly as all hell. How do Volvos compare? And would this be a wise purchase or should i look for something newer? It’s got 52,631 miles on it

If you rock them I apologize but I must know the answer because to me it seems useless

I drive a used Kia Seltos 2020 as my daily and it works great for the most part, but while speeding past 60mph the car starts to shake (including the steering wheel). I have changed the brake pads, got new tyres and got the tyres aligned, brake rotors resurfaced - from a local shop (they said it was warped and needed to be done) and yet the issue has worsened somehow. Earlier it was not much of an issue but now you can not just feel the thing shake but you can see it from outside as well while braking.
What can i do at this point?

In the US, how come there’s never been a bigger market for small diesel trucks like there is everywhere else? I remember Mahindra was going to import trucks but it never happened, at least on a big scale. But why isn’t there more of a demand for small 4cyl diesel pickups?

Hello, As I cannot find ethanol based windscreen washer fluid here, is it okay if i just put some ethanol in it?

And what ratio would I use? I want to prevent easily refreezing again when the wipers turn on.

Mice have found their way into the car. 2022 Corolla. Have cleared the nest, laid sheets and sprayed peppermint and air freshener. Have been listening to the music as loud as I can and blasting the heat on any drives. Any other tips? Going to lay traps tonight...

No idea how it got in. Limited evidence of activity in the main part of the car, huge nest in the trunk.

I bought tires at Costco 2 years ago. Hit something in the road that caused cuts on the side of my tire. Took it to Costco as its under warranty. They had it for 2 hours then text me to pick it up. They told me the tire was good to go. I could tell they took the tire off and put it back on the rim. But was surprised they didn't recommend replacing the tire.

It did sit for 2 weeks, since the incident, and never lost air that I could tell. But it scares me to drive with it that way.

Fyi... I signed a paper when I dropped off the tire. But I don't have a copy of said paper. So no way to prove I brought the tire in for inspection if it does blowout.

(This is for my 1989 Buick Reatta)

My Reatta has been having some really weird issues since I bought her, and I’d like some input.

So far we’ve replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Serpentine belt, and the Idle Airflow Sensor, but these issues still persist:

Car always cranks, however sometimes will require extra gas to turn over (not always). Idles fine most of the time, but sometimes refuses to idle, and sometimes idles but with oscillating RPM (700-350 and so on)

Car will drop rpm when braking, sometimes as low as 250rpm and then recover (or it will die and need restarting). Car has died mid-drive, though only for a half a second, and continues driving (loses speedometer during this). Car will usually give ‘Engine Communication Issue’ error when this happens, but not always.

Car has voltage drop while braking (normal is 13.5-14.5) and drops to 12.8 in certain cases. Turning has smaller voltage drop.

Does anyone know what this could be? I’ve been troubleshooting this for a few weeks and while it doesn’t really affect driving, having the car die on me during the winder and losing power steering is very scary.

Hi so I smashed into my driveway pole today don’t ask why or how lol. I know little to nothing about cars, I was hoping someone could tell me if it’s still drivable. Being so close to christmas I’m working everyday and still need to get to work. Thank you 🥰🥰

Pls help - So it’s very loud as you can imagine it doesn’t sound exactly straight piped to me but you’ll get all the noise when you step on the gas even the slightest it’s literally split. I like the sound everyone hears me on the road so I rarely ever have that I didn’t see you incident :) now I’m thinking of getting it straight piped but don’t wanna deal with the pain so X pipes ig with magma (suggestions) want loud definitely deleting 1 or 2 things.

My question: is that how straight pipes sound YouTube doesn’t always do audio the best I’ll post or dm a video if y’all want.

Hello! I have a 2009 Vw Jetta. This happened on Monday. I went to go start my car and the key would not fully insert. the steering wheel is also locked. there were no issues before this with this type of thing. i know the ignition switch lock cylinder needs replaced (i have already purchased the part and tools required), but i cannot replace it because the wheel is locked. the wheel will not unlock because the key will not fully insert! i have tried everything to unlock the wheel - extra force, cleaning out where the key inserts, rocking the car back and forth, etc. I have had no issues in the past when it has locked - i know it is an anti-theft measure. Hoping someone can help because it seems this has never happened to anyone else :(

I have a 1996 Corolla and every time I’ve smogged it it’s had above average HC levels. Everything else is within the limits. I recently had my car break down and it turned out to be the head gasket, when I brought it to a mechanic who said they also do smog repairs, I asked them to fix the head gasket and repair it so it would be ready for smog. They told me on the phone that they could guarantee with 100% certainty that the head gasket was the problem for smog, and proceeded to take 3 weeks to fix the car. I’ve spent the last 3 weeks just trying to get them to smog it but they have problem after problem, and upon taking it to my usual place it still won’t pass due to HC. Are there any tips on how to bring down the levels myself? It has new spark plugs and the sensors are fine, no leaks of any kind. The levels are double what they should be

is it necessary? it’s dragging along the ground and sounds super annoying