/r/CarAV
For The Car Audio and Video beginners to enthusiast to everything in between! Heads, Subs, EQs, etc... Bring it into our show room. Q&A, Advice, Tips, tricks and tech welcome! If you are new to the hobby, you can subscribe, post and view our wiki for basic starting information. If you are a long time veteran, feel free to use this as a form to discuss with other like minded enthusiasts.
Anyone from the complete beginner to the seasoned professional is welcome!
Ask questions (even stupid ones); get recommendations for your next build; share news, tips, builds, memes, or anything else related to Car Audio, Video, or Security; or just generally discuss the hobby. Be considerate and keep posts entertaining, informative, or at least on-topic!
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Hello! Looking to upgrade the stock radio in my 2020 Hyundai Elantra. A local stereo shop recommended the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX. I have an Android phone and primarily want a new deck to have navigation on a bigger screen, Android auto, etc. This Pioneer is Maestro compatible so the volume and scan buttons on the steering wheel will work. Which is cool.
My biggest concern is that some reviewers say the screen glare is bad and there's no way to brighten the screen. That'd be bad because I drive during the day all the time in sunny SoCal.
Do you have any knowledge about this deck? What are your opinions and what are alternative deck options?
I really like the price point of this one but I could pay a little bit more if necessary for a better unit.
Thanks!
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6BQFE5TVr6i/p_130DMW3000/Reviews/Pioneer-DMH-W3000NEX.html
Looking for skar audio usersss. Is there a big difference between the evl 12 and the vfx 12? I ran the evl on 1500rms ( ik it’s over the 1250 rating) and I’m wondering if I get a vfx will there be much of a difference. Yes, it’s on clean power and it’s being run on 14.4 volts specific to the amplifier I have. Also almost forgot, I run the evl on 1 ohm and if I get the vfx id do the same. Or does anyone else have any better 12s rated at 1500w rms that they would recommend? Thanks!!
I have an 07 Mazda 3 for reference, I just hooked up my new system today I previously posted about an amp a week ago I ended getting a Polk Pad 1000.1 1200 watt mono amp , it’s running two Memphis 12 600 watt 300 rms subs dual voice coil the wiring is 2 ohm I think ? Maybe 1 . The amp and subs work amazing I’m am so impressed. Ran it for about 30 minutes amp stayed cool as a cucumber. I had the gain set to about half way and every time the bass hit I noticed a slight flicker in the headlights which is unfortunate. For reference I’m running a 5 gauge power wire and the same gauge ground ( directly screwed to the cars frame bare metal of course .) I love this system so far it really impressed me . Is there anything I could do to reduce the flicker ? I turned the gain way down and it doesn’t flicker anymore but the bass is nonexistent lol . Would love to hear some pointers or structural criticism lol either or .
I’m in the market for a new commuter car. I don’t want anything too fancy because I know it’ll get beat up in a busy parking lot. However, I DO want a nice stereo. My current 2012 Corolla has been just fine ever since I upgraded the stereo but it’s time to hand it down to my child/teen.
I’m looking at the Corolla Hybrid, Corolla Cross Hybrid, or Prius. To upgrade them to the JBL system is ridiculous- I’m not spending $30k on a Corolla!
Are any of those (or other unmentioned models) easier to upgrade? Are there any problems or pitfalls with my plan I haven’t thought of?
Just for reference, I installed a Sony head unit on my Corolla, replaced the speakers (no amp- just running off the head unit), installed a powered sub, and put sound deadening liner inside the car and I’m perfectly happy with the result. Is it not reasonable to assume I can do the same in one of these new cars (I know I can’t replace the head unit in these models)?
I’m looking for a solution(s) to eliminate the rattle from my headliner (mostly around the rear dome light) and the trim pieces on each side of the rear seat where the belts come out. I have a 2010 Silverado crew.
I've replacing a bunch of stuff in my belt drive due to a failed crank seal slinging oil, and am wondering what's a good brand belt to buy for your HO Alt. I know most alt companies sent you to Dayco to find your size, but they don't give a recommendation on what's a good belt to get.
Last belt I bought was a Dayco Polyrib, but it didn't make it far enough to see if it was good or not before getting soaked in oil. What's a good recommendation?
Hello, I purchased an alpine ILX 507, which puts our 16 RMS. This is going in my chevelle which is a convertible. I have 4 6.5 speaker locations, I was looking at the s2-65's but I am not sure if the radio can push them well.
As it is a convertible, I am not concernec with making this the best sounding car ever. I just want some good clear non distorted music while cruising. This car is performace orientated, so I do not want to stress it even more with amps and such.
I am using iDatalink Maestro RR with the NI1 and ALP1 harnesses. The parking brake bypass module I got comes with a blue/white, black, yellow/black and yellow/blue wire. I can see all the wires on the ALP1 harness except yellow/black. Where does this one go?
EDIT: And if I install this bypass, should I also take out the OBD2 connector (which I assume provides the parking brake signal without the bypass)?
im just about ready to order everything for my 2 10in sub setup, all thats left is a line output converter, as i want to hook them up to the factory radio. im not too knowledgeable on what exactly to get, as some locs are 30 bucks, and some are 200. setup is 2 kicker compR 10s paired to a kicker 800.1
Finally happy with the M8.14 in my BMW Tweaked the EQ and started using USB instead of the aux jack, which is abysmal
Feedback welcome!
I have a 300W 2 channel amp that advertises 2ohm/150Rms, 4ohm/100wrms, and when bridged 4ohm/300rms. I have 2 6x9s rated 75Wrms/150Wpeak @ 4 ohms, and 2 5 1/4s rated 40Wrms/80Wpeak. How should I end up wiring this thang? TIA
Is my best route to upgrade to do a stupid BavSound install? I want to upgrade the sub stage. The vocals are decent enough but my subs are two flat 8" under the fronts seats and they suck.
It’s supposed to read 12V I’ve checked every connection, the factory harness works with the factory radio. But this harness won’t get constant/any power at all. The red wire is routed to the power supply of the AC head unit In hopes I’d get power. Please help
Sorry for this dumb question but ever since I installed a 500W amp for my 2 12”s I noticed when I start up my car after a day it sounds like the battery is dying.
Am I supposed to do something special instead of just putting the car in park and taking out the key?
I recently bought a car stereo from a friend that does not appear to have the mounting bracket inside the box. But my friend insists that it was. But I'm really struggling to find mention of it at all, let alone as a purchaseable part.
The best I have found is a picture of what I am looking for on a German website in a picture of what's inside the stereo box.
It's beginning to feel as though it might be easier to buy another stereo altogether. Which surely cannot be the case. Bing and Google keep offering tv mounts I swear search engines used to be more useful than they are now. The device works fine, there's just nothing holding it to the dashboard.
I don't know what to do. I've seen generic 2din mounting kits but there isn't anything to attach the head unit. I don't think it's specific to my vehicle so much as 2din.
The model of the stereo is unclear. But on the back of the unit is a sticker with TS-8196NV-X 10inch UK 8667NV 6G+128G
Any assistance that can be offered, either with finding the junsun bracket or a generic alternative would be very much appreciated.
Do any active subs have speaker outputs that are amplified?
This is a miata application so size and simplicity is paramount.
Thanks
My stock speakers died and I'm wanting to know if its better to try and get bose speakers from a junkyard (assuming good quality) for about $40~$50 or to buy new ones online.
My big thing is price. I can get bose speakers for about $50 which (assumed in good quality) are name brand and pretty good in all the cars I've heard them in or, I can spend $100 and get what? Anyone know of better speakers for that price?
Also I have a bose amp. Wanted to push the speakers a little farther than just the head unit could handle. Probably the reason the stock ones died lol.
Hello everyone I drive a 2011 Toyota rav4. This is just the v4 sport model so it does not have the jbl or navigation system in it. This is now my second week at trying to replace my cars radio and speaker system and I am now officially out of ideas and Google is offering no help. First we replaced the stock radio with a BOSS BE62CP and the wiring harness crunchfield gave me was the Crux SWRTY61S. I installed this pretty simply it was just a plug and play to wires and it worked great with the stock speakers. I then started to replace the rear speakers with Rockford R1675X2 we where trying each speaker as we where replacing them finished up the rears and it worked great with the new BOSS radio. Then we got to the front speakers were I was replacing them with Rockford R165-S this is where things got weird working with the tweater speakers we had to wire them a little funny but they were working. Fast forward to the last speaker we go to try it and all sudden none of the speakers work anymore. I have unplugged the front speakers and tried original speakers radio and even tried it without the new Crux harness. I am just super confused about the whole situation and what could have happened. My car does not have an amp and I have check every single fuse. Any ideas would be amazing thanks.
I am getting ready to get a high output alternator for my car and was recommended a big 3 wire upgrade as well. I’ve done some research but I have a couple of questions. I can’t seem to find a video on my car getting one so I am just wondering how my wires would connect to the battery. I have a trunk battery and was wondering if I need to run wire straight to the trunk or if there’s connections I can attach to under the hood that will work good.
My car has been discontinued and I know very little about cars. I did have nice Bose speakers but I managed to blow out half of them, and desperately need new ones.
Should I get the same kind? Should I go to a Mazda dealership? Or a regular body shop? Or order speakers online? Or after market? I’m so confused by the options.
I don’t want to spend a fortune given that my car is pretty old. But I’d like it to be comparable to the Bose I have. Any suggestions would be super appreciated!!!
So i just installed a pioneer dmh-w3000nex in my 08 cadillac sts, and im just wondering if theres any speaker setup things i should do like stuff with the eq, and eq settings that are good , i have all stock speakers with 2 12" skar sdr subs, it sounds good for what it is right now , but when i turn the unit past 27-30 it gets sort of distored i think its just maxing out the stock bose amp though so i keep it around 27 but if anyone has any suggestion on thing i should do with the new unit let me know 🙏
I've got my sub in the boot as seen in the picture and 2 6x9s on the parcel shelf, I'm wanting to take the sub out of it's enclosure and fit it in the middle of the parcel shelf, will it sound like shit without the enclosure? Thanks
This is something I've seen brought up in the last discussion about dampening materials, but the effectiveness of the material vs temperature. I would suppose the metal attached shrinks and expands based on temperature, while the butyle adhesive would remain the same.
Also, I noticed that resonix has much thicker offerings, is this to combat the reduction in effectiveness due to temperature changes?
Thanks!
I have an external carplay unit that plugs into my cigarette lighter, and it did not come with a reverse camera.
All it has is an av-in port and i was wondering if anyone had recommendations for a compatible camera.
I purchased one off ebay but it is in the wrong format (RCA) and i need a 2.5mm Av output cable from the camera.
Please and thank u