/r/CarAV
For The Car Audio and Video beginners to enthusiast to everything in between! Heads, Subs, EQs, etc... Bring it into our show room. Q&A, Advice, Tips, tricks and tech welcome! If you are new to the hobby, you can subscribe, post and view our wiki for basic starting information. If you are a long time veteran, feel free to use this as a form to discuss with other like minded enthusiasts.
Anyone from the complete beginner to the seasoned professional is welcome!
Ask questions (even stupid ones); get recommendations for your next build; share news, tips, builds, memes, or anything else related to Car Audio, Video, or Security; or just generally discuss the hobby. Be considerate and keep posts entertaining, informative, or at least on-topic!
Consult the sidebar, the growing wiki or search the sub before asking questions.
Join the r/CarAV Discord Server for additional help with any of your Car Audio, Video, and Security questions or discussion. Or just join to hang out, discuss other topics and hobbies, or contact staff.
Use the Recommendations Form to get advice from our community of enthusiasts in order to help you choose a system.
Use the modmail link located directly above the mod list for all mod-related questions and concerns. Requests made without using this feature will be ignored.
Free
SoundForm Signal Generator (Android)
Paid
/r/CarAV
I have focal IS BMW 100L and focal IC BMW 100 speakers, and I'm wondering if I need to set any crossovers/filters to make sure lower frequencies don't destroy them.
Also I've been wondering about good reference curves for my car if anyone has recs
Thanks!
I'm stuck. Please help. Setup with GM harness, all works. Programmed with Weblink, disabled all chirps for Lock and Unlock and it still chirking Siren when Lock. Silent when unlock. And also I had to disconnect Horn wire, because it doesn't matter what I program it always chirk on Lock. I tried re-flash - no luck.
Any ideas?
Mine Chevy Express actually not a Express, it's Cutaway truck.
Looking for alternatives for the above as it would be nifty to have one cable from the phone to the adapter to charge while the adapter handles the audio.
Hello everyone,
I am currently wiring a stereo and back up camera and am looking at options to ground my negative on the frame of my car. I am wondering if someone can shine some light and steer me in the correct direction.
When using a ring terminal or a fork crimp, should I be using the 22-16AWG? It seems to be the best fit for my scenario. What’s the advantages of a ring vs a fork? Would it best to not unscrew an existing ground point and simply loosen it and attach the fork crimp and retighten?
Thank you!
I tried the ReBassed.com app for example and it does play better than spotify. Also I used Cobalt to download music to my phone but IMO Spotify was playing it better.
I mean I have prolly 20 years old 1000/400wrms 12" Pioneer Champion Series sub in a sealed box with a old 4channel "900w" amp (prolly meant for door speakers anyway) I found this stuff from my parents garage lol.
Also other questions too. Why do people keep opening their doors/windows in most videos on tiktok? How exactly should I place my sub in a Hatchback Toyota Corolla 1996?
Any tips are well appreciated. I'm new to this stuff so no hate please!
Is Hifonics a good brand? The specs from this one are good for what i need, i just need to know if hifonics is a high end brand, this one is at sale from 170 dolars to 100
I want to preface this by saying I know nothing about AV, especially for cars. I have a 2017 Silverado, and the glass on the head unit was cracked, so I attempted a replacement. However, the screen was also broken, so I figured I’d buy a new one. I talked to the people over at Crutch Field, and they picked out a Sony XAV-AX8100 and the wiring interface, camera adapter, and dash kit. I’m opting for them to wire the harness altogether. But watching install videos, I don’t wanna get in over my head. How easy is an install? I’m questioning whether I should just go to the dealer and buy an OEM and be done with it.
Did I get a steal?
Model : Diamond Audio D6 600.4 4
I’m trying to hook up some speakers in my old 1979 truck. Not planning anything fancy. First time I’ve ever tried hooking up audio. Would like to know if I need other pieces to get this to work.
I have:
Amp - 4 channel (Planet Audio 1600.4) Pair of 1” tweeters Pair of 6x9 speakers Sub - It is powered on it own (Rockville 10”) After market radio head
The radio head has 4 RCA ports. One pair says it’s for the sub.
Based on what I’ve read, I should be able to run 1 RCA cable to the amp and then the amp will send sound to the tweeters and 6x9 speakers. Am I understanding that correctly or do I need something else?
For the sub, I just run an RCA line from the head straight to the sub. Am I missing anything?
Appreciate the help!
I have a stock 1999 lexus gs300 sub I am going to repurpose in another car.
I have searched and searched yet fail to find a 40 watt rms amplifier to run this little thing off of.
Any of yall know anything?
Custom speaker pods doesn’t have an xterra option. Should I just fiberglass some pods? YouTube makes it look easy enough to put a couple 8s in each door but has anyone here done it?
Hello, I'm trying to help someone replace the stereo in a 2010 Chrysler Sebring, the stereo gets power for a few second when you first connect it, but then shuts off. I think the issue is with the CAN bus, but I'm hoping to get this working without the CAN bus module (module costs more than the stereo). I'm also not entirely sure the car is using CAN bus, as finding the wiring diagram isn't very easy. The stereo cable coming from the car has +12V, GND, Antenna power, 8 speaker wires, and 2 wires I can't identify (my best guess is they are WHT and ONG/WHT, I think these are the CAN bus wires).
My other guess is the stereo's +12V ACC wire, the car doesn't seem to have a corresponding wire for this, but I'm wondering if I can just tie that to the +12V?
Here's the stereo: Link
I recently had subs installed into my q50, and right away I noticed they were not hitting as hard as I thought they would. (For reference my buddy had a g37 like 7 years ago with dual 12” subs just installed at a local Best Buy for somewhere around $1200-1400 total, I believe, and his subs shook the car and you felt it in your body, even when the bass knob was only turned up 1/2 way it was still pretty strong). Anyway, I originally ordered everything from crutchfield and got a custom box off eBay, everything with 4+ stars out of 5. I then had a local shop install it for 350-400 or so, they have 4.9/5 starts on both yelp and goole too. At that point my build was around 1400 including installation. The next day they call me to come pick up the car. I eventually get to the shop and test the subs, I am very unimpressed at that point. I noticed a small difference but nothing major especially for 2 12” subs. I had to turn the bass knob up to 100% to feel a slight vibration in the door when I was resting my leg on it. Also when looking at the speakers they did not seem to be moving much, even when on max speaker volume and bass knob. So I asked them why and they say my box isn’t big enough for the speakers I have, if I want the kind of output my buddy had. So I buy a new box and have them rework it, I also end up buying a new amp from them too, and send the old one back to CF. After they installed the new gear it was noticeably better but still nothing compared to what my buddy had years ago. Am I expecting too much out of my set up? Is something off with the installation? I’m just not too sure why I’m not getting a ton of output like my buddy did. I also took a picture of the current amp tune the shop did, maybe that is off? If anyone has any suggestions please let me know, here is my speaker and amp below.
Speakers: 2X - Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 Punch P2
Amp: Sony XM-1ES
Modeled it and it looks perfect for what I am trying to do but I cant find information or people who have used them anywhere!!
I have 1 cu/ft gross tuned to 35Hz with Aero port on 500W @ 2 Ohms. Need recommendations please on 8" SPL subs around $160! TYIA
Edit: will probably get downvoted for even mentioning, but what about a Skar EVL-8 in that box on 500W?
I have an alpine e12 on a sony xplode 500 and my sealed box is 1.3 cubic ft should i get a bigger or smaller box?
I haven’t installed a system since 2005 but it’s time to relive my childhood! I’ve purchased this L7 wired to 1ohm. The plan is to purchase a 1ohm D monoblock around 1000W. Does that sound right in this situation? Any feedback on the proper amp/set up would be appreciated along with pricing options out there. Lastly, my vehicle is running a stock dodge touch screen infotainment. Will there be RCA jacks on it?? How will I wire the amp when it comes to that? Again, I used to wire into flip out decks or pixelated pioneer set ups.. those were the days. Thanks for reading if you made it this far.
I built a transmission line boom box. It sounds fantastic in open air and it a house. As soon as I put it in an enclosed space like a car it sounds like trash.
I'm trying to figure out why that is because I want to design a box for my car.
Hi All,
I am having a bit of trouble with my steering wheel controls. Car is a 2012 Mazda3 with factory cd player & bluetooth. Recently upgrade to a sony xavax5500 to add a backup camera & android auto.
Wanted to add steering wheel controls so I added a idatalink maestro, followed the instructions & flashed it with the desktop application. Worked without a flaw for about a month. The buttons stopped responding so I returned it for a replacement & the replacement is just as problematic. I am having no luck with this & wanted to know if anyone had any advice or if there was an easier way using a 3.5mm 3 pole adapter instead of a steering wheel control adapter.
I also had to attach a wire from the maestro to the bluetooth module under my glovebox on my car & was wondering if that wire needed to be used for the 3.5mm adapter.
I checked the Sony website for the diagram, & attempted to follow the instructions, but input 2 says no connection & when I followed the instructions as such, it did not work. Could this be the wire from the bluetooth module to tap into if this instruction is for non-bluetooth vehicles?
https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/00168680
Thanks!
Installing an amp to interior speakers on 24 VW GLI 40th. Need the rear speaker wire colors before they become white throught the door adapter. TIA
Just like the title suggests, I am between these 3 specific component sets. Can anyone shed some light on what the right choice is? I will later down the line add an amp and the JBL Hub sub. Any help would be great, thanks.
A coworker gave me 2 of these and i need help in the direction for the amp i should get for these
I was thinking about asking around before i start duplicating connectors and hooking up the subwoofers and having my fuses blow or drain the battery. Or is it fine to do just that? I own a 2000 audi a6 c5 1.9tdi. Main harness going to the rear has all the connection's from the radio, rca, power and ground.
Been flirting with the idea of adding 2 pairs of focal component K2's (100W RMS) to my 2001 VW Passat, but my audio knowledge ends with speakers themselves.
What kind of amp do i Actually need, my understanding is that as long as it matches the specs and is from a reputable brand like Hertz, Helix, Audison etc, then it's fine since cheaper amps don't have a noticable effect to sound anyway? Right now I've found a "good one" from Hertz for 250€.
I Do Not Want a screen in my car, so 2din aftermarkets are not an option, right now I've come to terms with a classic transmitter to stock radio setup while running FLAC files over bluetooth. Now, do DSP allow a wired connection as a source or how do they work, since I don't see the point of dropping hundreds on a "signal processor" if it still connects to my 24y old radio (alright it would have to still do it, but with the option of direct input instead of transmitter). And after all that how much do I really need to drop on one? Imo it should be cheaper than the amp for some reason, still confused whether I need one since the gain it gives for its price seems really low
Hey everyone,
I’m trying to dismantle my Alpine SBR-S8 speaker subwoofer because I suspect the voice coil might be broken—the sound is distorted, kind of rattling or broken (hard to describe, but definitely not normal). I’m hoping to send it for repair or replace it.
So far, I’ve removed all the screws and the speaker grills, but the subwoofer itself won’t come off. It feels like something is still holding it in place, and I don’t want to force it and risk causing more damage.
Has anyone worked with this model before? Is another step I’m missing? or is it glued.
Any tips or guidance would be really appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Hi, I just ordered a Jensen CAR714MW and i am wondering if it is good for the price ($300). I know there is hate for the company here but i just want to know if i made a decent choice. I am coming from a stock 2016 kia forte5 sx system.
Looks like the Audiomobile EVO 2410 is the best subwoofer among the options to replace my Helix K8W. But they don't seem to have their own website, and the dealers that do have it listed, don't have all of the T/S parameters or the manual.
Anybody got some lore on why that is?
I recently put a high output alternator in my vehicle (220A). The issue i’m having is every time I hit the gas my speaker amp turns off for a brief few seconds the comes back on and continues to play. I am confused because the subs will continue to play. So I will hear bass but no speakers and then after a few seconds the speakers will come back on. Any suggestions?