CarAV Discord

So I bought a truck that had all the wires ran for speakers. I.E. the 4 gauge with fuse running from the battery, 4 gauge ground, PAC converter hooked up and all that jazz. I bought a Rockville 10” sub/amp combo. The unit calls for 8 gauge wire. Having issues getting the 4 gauge into the unit. So I was going to get a reducer. Thought about just reducing it to 8 gauge with a crimp but I don’t think that’s smart the more I think about it. I’ve seen some adapters on Amazon and some distribution blocks. What would be the best way to go about it? Thanks in advance!

Any experts here?

Maybe someone here could help. My speakers are making a clicking/static/popping sound, but only if my tires are moving. If I’m idle and rev the engine nothing, but as soon as the car moves forward or backward the sound starts and speeds up until reaching a fast pace that sounds like it’s almost humming with the clicking/popping sound. This happens only if the radio is on. I can turn it off and luckily it stops.

More info that’s maybe unrelated:

This happened 6 months ago and 5-10 minutes after it started my transmission wouldn’t shift into 4th gear, then after fixing it I was left with a parasitic draw and needed a new instrument cluster accompanied with other issues that stoped my 4wd from working….this noise came back today and I have my fingered crossed this doesn’t trigger this again. Any of you guys have any ideas?

I bought a used 2020 Ranger in the fall and it had an aftermarket sound system (un)professionally installed. Had no issues all winter, but about a month ago it started kicking out insane feedback/static out of just the driver’s door speaker. Whoever installed it used house wiring not car wiring for the hook up. There are no issues with any of the other speakers. It also doesn’t start up right away—anywhere from 10-25 mins of driving before it starts, whether the sound is on or not, and continues kicking feedback for 5-10 mins after the engine is shut off. Any suggestions before I have to drop a grand to Visions Electronics to get them to replace the amp and wiring (as their recommendation)?

Had a shop install my component speakers and noticed first that one of the tweeters were not working. Upon investigation I found the crossovers are only being used for the tweeters and not for the woofers meaning the sub/mid output on the crossover was not wired at all.

Is this normal or does that mean the woofers are receiving full sound input when they should not be? I know some components have the crossover wires just to the tweeter but this has the wiring connection for both tweeter and sub/mids.

Hi everyone. Would any one here be kind enough to double check my diagram. Just want to make sure I presenting the amp with a 4 ohm load here. Running 2x 6.5 subs, smaller box and didn't want a bunch of wire in it... so would this work? the "X" on the diagram is me joining the wires together outside the box.

Thanks for the sanity check.

https://preview.redd.it/p31ozemf300d1.png?width=427&format=png&auto=webp&s=a15f7463bbe05658cc70bdba49dafdcd37af12ae

Hello all, I’m a novice when it comes to car audio but not electrical itself.

Currently I have a Skar setup: RP2000.1D paired with 2 EVL 12” 4 coil 2ohm subs rated at 1,250W rms each.

I am very pleased with them after the first 8 months or so having them in use. What I want to do is add 2 more of the same model subwoofers. Enclosures aside I am looking for help with the amplifier side. The 2000w amp that came with the package deal is sub 500W for the full rms range of the current 2 wired at 1ohm. I would like to look at options for properly supplying the full 5000w rms to all 4 subs wired at 1ohm.

Would you rather wire all 4 subs to 1ohm and use a 5,000w amplifier (please suggest brands/models) OR Replace the current amp with a 2,500w and keep the subs wired in 2 pairs at 1ohm per set to 2 separate amps?

Power supply is no issue here either. 400amp alt with big 3 upgrade and 5 farad cap added with the initial install and I plan on adding 1 or more AGM batteries to the system possibly forgoing the cap in the process.

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

For some reason the right side of the car is silent, until I increase the volume very high and then I hear very scratchy noises that sound like they would be breaking the speakers if I keep it like that.

I have tested the right side speakers on the left side and they work fine. I also tried with new speaker wires and same issue still. I even tried with a new rca pair and still no luck.

All help is appreciated.

I have a 2021 Honda CRV with factory sub and amp. To get vehicle noises and alerts I had to tap into hi level inputs after factory amp when installing aftermarket amp.

I got bass notes while accelerating and figured out I forgot to unplug ANC. I unplugged the ANC module and now I have a high frequency constant noise only coming from rear tweeters.

If it matters the front tweeters are running active through a DSP while the rear tweeters are running passive through an inline cross over.

The noise from tweeters DOES change with the gain. It goes away if ANC is plugged back in.

I have played with gain to get minimal noise, but I lost a lot of volume. The noise is audible in front seat so dealing with it is not option

EDIT: I thought maybe the ANC module is grounded and unplugging it causes a problem. I tried finding a Pinout diagram for the connector to try and depin the microphone inputs. However I cannot find that online.

I have this amp coming and going into a Bose Silverado. For full info the front doors will have JL components. Rear doors JL coax and a stealth box for subs. I have an amp bypass harness for the Bose amp.

I have seen opinions saying a Fix 86 should be used to flatten the factory EQ. Some say yes, some say no. If I have the amp tuned professionally can they tune around not using a Fix86?

I have also seen people say using a Rockford DSR1 will be enough to flatten the EQ and send a clean signal to the VXi. I do have one of the Rockford DSR1 handy so I can use that. I’m just not looking forward to dropping another 500$ on a Fix86 if it’s not needed. However with the money I have invested in this build I don’t want to cheap out if getting the Fix86 is going make an appreciable difference. I understand the whole garbage in garbage out analogy and want to avoid that.

So what do the Reddit warriors think here?

Thanks. I appreciate any and all thoughts/responses.

Hello guys sorry for bothering but I am currently building a system that will draw 2400w max and i have seen some people saying that 0ga can handle no more that 150 and some say it can easily carry 300. Can you explain to me a little bit and tell me what wire gauge I need?

I blew my sub out a while ago and I’ve been looking for a new one to replace it, and I had the idea that I could buy an unboxed sub and stick it in the current box. I was thinking a 12 inch square sub, and I’ll cut the box to fit the square. The current box has a passive radiator so I’ll be able to save on a decent box. Is there any reason I shouldn’t do this?

hey guys, planning on building this box next weekend, just wondering if anyone has built this one specifically or has built a box from subbox n the results. thanks heaps!

I'm waiting for my 9500es and xm-4es to come in next week. I already have the xs-163es and xs-160es in the garage. I was planning on installing them all with the amp powering front and rears. I just found out the 9500es is able to do 2way mode, so someone could use a pair of channels for the woofers and another for mid/tweeters. I know the 163es can be bi-amp'd. Would it be possible to configure 2way mode on the 9500es, use 2channels for the front woofers, 2channels for the mid/tweeters on the amp. Still using the x-over. But also use the headunit to power the rear stock or the 160es? I feel like if the 9500es is in 2way mode, the internal amp would change too, since the rear channel would now be woofers. If I knew this 2way feature before hand, I might have just bought a 6channel or more amp. Figured if I just focused only on the Fronts with the better speakers, I could just leave my rear factory ones alone, and have a better "front stage" and barely have the rears faded in. I can return the speakers. But the amp and headunit are bought on ebay for a good deal, but return would be questionable. Also, it's being installed in a '21 STi Base.

Looking for a single din or double din car stereo that has the old school cool pixelated animations to put on my 00’ gs300. Alot of the ones i see online go for crazy prices was hoping to find a reasonable priced one. Doesnt have to be pioneer now that i think about it.

So I've been wondering about this for a little while. What's the difference between the 2? The install cable I'm referring to is the kind used for camper and offroad/4wd installs. The car audio cable is much cheaper per meter, like 40% cheaper. It is easy to bend though as the install cable is quite stiff due to the larger strands of copper and I guess the jacket is stiffer and less prone to getting cut and punctured.

Looking to add more grounds to the engine bay and just seeing if it's fine to use audio cable.

So recently I’ve noticed when I turn the volume up past 80% on my headunit my sub seems to max out. The gain is fairly low on the sub amp. Any recommendations or advice as to why it would do this?

Just thinking about whether I should get a dsp amp combo or go standalone. I need something with 6 channels and was thinking of going with helix m six or just getting like a helix mini and using my current amp I have. Current amp I have is a 6 channel $300 Rockford that is still returnable since I’ve only had it like 2 weeks. Not necessarily trying to save money by getting a combo but just wondering if it would be better to have one unit.

Alright Reddit, I really need some help. I just finished up my shift, which was extended by 4 hours due to some unforeseen circumstances. I installed an amp, subwoofer, and Line output converter. In a 2018 Mini Cooper S(John Works) Initially, I was having some issues with the sound coming through the subs. It was way too high pitched. And did not contain any bass. It was in the rear doors. It might have to be due to that speaker? If I am able to get to it, I will switch it to the roofers underneath the seats. But that is not the main issue here. I told the guy to come back tomorrow so I can do some research on why the sound was weird. And when he went to leave, no crank, no start. And obviously I was really confused. Considering the only thing I’ve touched, wiring wise. In the car, was speaker wire, and the power wire. Other than that, the remote was in the converter, and ground was to… well ground. So first thing I do was test the battery again. And it was solid, sitting above 12 volts. I ended up unhooking the power wire and converter. And still nothing. The cars battery seems just fine. No errors on the car. But there is no noise outside of the dash/lights turning on. I went around, checked all the fuses to see if I blew a fuse somehow. Couldn’t find a single one not working. I looked around for so long. Seeing if something came unhooked/broke in the instal. I couldn’t see any factory wiring out of place, around what I’ve done. I’m lost on what is going on. I’m going back in the morning to try and replace the relays behind the glovebox. But I’m out of ideas. If anyone has any helpful thoughts or ideas. I would really appreciate it. I will try my best to answer questions.

I'm running a helix-A4 amplifier wondering if I should have just 4 door speakers or having 4 mid bass speakers and 2 tweeters and wondering what speaker models/brands I should get (also want my system to be super loud)