/r/JeepDIY
This sub is for Jeepers to post projects they are working on and for newbies to ask questions!
Pictures are welcome, you should use Imgur for image hosting but is not required.
Please include as much information as possible regarding your project, including specialty tools required, parts list (and links if you have them), pitfalls to avoid, tips for making it easier and total costs. Don't forget vehicle info too!
No project is too big or too small to post here. This is a place to bitch, boast and brag! Talk up your Jeep!
If you are installing a product in which you received as a part of a sponsorship program, you may still post here, however, you are required to disclose that in your post.
Do not insult others or their choices. This is a friendly community and we all have different ideas of what looks good. Constructive criticism is welcomed but remain tactful.
Read the reddiquette if you need help understanding good practices.
/r/JeepDIY
Hey guys, I could use some advice. I just changed all the o2 sensors and map sensor in my jeep jk 3.8 liter. When I went to start the jeep, it did a crank but no start. Any ideas what it is?
I’ve been having some hesitation when I accelerate between 1500 and 2000 rpm. Over 2000 it’s been fine. I replaced the MAP sensor today as that was noted to be a frequent problem. AFTER replacing the sensor and taking it up and down the street (maybe 1/8th mile) and stopping in my driveway I could hear a distinct metallic rattle/clanging. I initially suspected something in the exhaust but I’ve manipulated enough of the exhaust piping to think it’s not likely it. The clanging gets louder with higher rpm (1200ish). The engine sounds like it’s running smoothly otherwise. As seen in the video the rattle suddenly stopped (no change to rpm) but came back immediately after I stopped recording.
Engine is a rebuilt Jasper that I had put in about 3 years ago. Probably has maybe 30000 miles on it. Jeep is a 2008 automatic.
Pretty lost on this one.
2001 XJ with 150K miles I'm about to pull my hair out chasing these cylinder misfires on cylinders 2 and 5. I'm getting codes P0300, P0302, P0305 and flashing CEL and it sometimes bucks/surges under load on the highway. What I've done so far trying to fix it: -Compression test (all around 135-145psi after warming it up) -New coil pack -New spark plugs -New crankshaft and camshaft position sensors -Swapped injectors around -Replaced all four 02 sensors All part I've used are Standard Motor Products brand on Rock Auto. I wonder if it's possible that I've trashed my pre-cats, or could a trashed catalytic converter cause these misfires? I haven't driven it much, really only to test drive after replacing a part to see if it misfires again. I honestly don't know what to try next so any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
I replaced all hoses, thermostat, housing, and radiator
Temperature goes to 210 and then drops like how I read it’s supposed to in the chilton manual
What could be the cause/solution?
Hi. I'm from Ukraine, and want to ask a community for advice. My Jeep Cherokee 2015 saved my life in 2022. It helped me and my family to escape the city through the field and forest while it was almost occupied.
My model is 4x4 Limited with 3.2 engine. Since the car became my family member I don't want to sell it, but to rebuild it into a TrailHawk. (Specifically, replace the whole front and back parts with the restyled 2019 TrailHawk Parts)
Is it worth making it or it's a waste of time? (Using used parts obviously) Has anyone already done that?
Bought a YJ couple of years ago and the guy had installed aftermarket LEDs headlights in it. Last couple of weeks the lights have been flickering, not horribly but noticeable. Came out from work last night and now only one cuts on. Haven’t found anything useful searching google and the forums, curious if anybody had some ideas.
I have a 2005 Jeep tj wrangler. It needs a transmission. Great condition. Blue book says it’s worth $8000 for poor condition. No one wants it. Would you spend $4000 on a rebuilt transmission and try to sell it for a bit more? I really just want rid of it. I can’t drive it because clutch hurts my bad knee
This weekend I'm finally manning up and tackling my car maintenance - spark plugs, ignition coils, intake manifold gaskets, and all four O2 sensors, oh my! Any tips to prevent me from making a mess of it and what tools do I need, considering I already have a socket wrench, O2 sensor wrench, screwdrivers, and the parts?
Howdy, I’ve got a 2014 JK with about 170k miles on it axles/hubs/etc have never been touched on it.. just wondering what’s going to be easier to do as I don’t really have a whole lot of free time to do super lengthy repairs.
Should I rebuild or just buy whole new assemblies to swap out?
I’m trying to install a Sony stereo in my ‘12 wrangler sport and I’m stuck at the Acc wire.
The stereo is connected to the wiring harness correctly but the ignition is not powering the stereo. (I have a red wire coming out of back of the stereo that needs 12v only when the ignition is turned on.)
I bought the Metra harness that preserves the steering wheel controls and it came with a green programming module that plugs into an extra plug in the harness. If I plug the module into the harness and plug the other side of the module into the usb port on the front of the steel it works fine. But then I have no usb to plug my phone into and I’ll have to drill a hole in my dash to plug the front of the stereo into the back of the stereo. This can’t be the right way.
There must be a power an accessory power source from the ignition that I can tap into right?
I bought this kit: Power Brake Booster Conversion Kit for Aftermarket Axles (76-86 Jeep CJ5 & CJ7; 91-95 Jeep Wrangler YJ w/o ABS)
Because the brake booster that was on it was leaking brake fluid pretty bad. When I went to install it I found one of the brake lines doesn’t fit. Can I swap out the one that doesn’t fit with one that does?
Anybody know where to find the rubber piece that goes on the steering column firewall? Needing to pull the steering column to fix my turn signals, figured I’d replace the rubber piece also but can’t find it anywhere.
I have a 1989 jeep yj that’s idling rough and putting out black smoke any tips on how to fix?
99 WJ limited with 4.0 and SelecTrac 4wd, bone stock beater except for Dana 44a upgrade
I am looking for advice on what I might want to consider for driving it in the woods, up and down mild hills in potentially grille deep powder and the resulting range of snow and mud conditions as spring arrives. This is for my work and I want to keep the budget as low as possible while still getting some reliable utility out of my vehicle. Street driving is expected to be minimal to nonexistent.
My first thought is starting with proper tires, which I know little about, and then going from there. Any suggestions on suitable tires for my situation? I'm open to suggestions for other utilitarian mods that I may be overlooking. Thanks.
Hi all,
I’ve been scouring FB marketplace for a deal on a 4:1 Rubicon transfer case. I have a 2010 6-speed; as I understand it, I can use any TC from another JK manual regardless of year or one from an 07-10 (maybe 11?) auto. Unfortunately, all the ones I can find mate to a 12-18 auto.
My question is if anyone is aware of a replacement input shaft that I can swap in to get one of the 12-18 auto versions to work. Extensive googling hasn’t turned up anything for me.
Hey y'all new to the regearing thing but I got a pair of Dana 44s for a pretty decent price but have 5.38 gears and im looking to change them to 4.56 gears. Is there anything else other than the gears that need to be changed?
This is my daily driver/hunting/camping Jeep so nothing too crazy on 35s
Hey guys, just made an account. I have a 95' Cherokee Country. Ran off the road and hit a tree this Monday after getting new tires. Got it towed home. Pulled out the bumper with a chain, put the serpentine belt back on. Just trying to get it started to know if it's working and worth fixing. It's cranking but I've got no spark at the plugs. Used an in-line spark tester. The impact happened right where the ECU is. Got a bunch of suggestions from my buddy to try, crank sensor, auto shutdown relay, grounds. But he told me to ask on some forums. What else could cause no spark?
So i had to replace the shifter boot. I was getting heat dumping off the exhaust manifold through the previous shifter boot. The new one fits, but it's super tight! So much so that it pulls the jeep regularly out of 4th gear and back into Neutral just from not being able to stretch far enough with the shifter. I have to keep my hand on the shifter to stay in gear. Thought maybe I could heat it up to stretch it out a bit but I'm afraid that I'm going to tear it and be back where I started.
These OEM shifter boots arent cheap. I dont want to fuck it up from trying to work it too hard.
Anyone ever run into this before? All ideas welcome.
I have a 2023 JL and a buddy of mine gave me a free set of new JL taillights. Wanting ideas of how I could diy customize them.
I'm hoping folks in this subreddit may have an answer for me. Here's an issue. I replaced the cylinder lock of my tailgate because it was seized. On reassembling it, the small purple clip that moves the latch mechanism keeps falling off when the key is turned. It wasn't a problem before. Can anyone tell me if I have reassembled this wrong? Or know the solution? Link to a video and photo here: https://imgur.com/a/13wC3NA
Thanks in advance.
My jeep is getting up there in miles.
She’s starting to run a little rough on idle, lost a bit of power recently.
What are some maintenance/part replacement items I could do to return her back to baseline performance?
Photo for reference.
2002 4.0 manual, P0456 code. I replaced most of the lines in the Evap system, gave it a smoke test. Should smoke be coming from the fuel vapor leak detection pump filter that's attached to the vapor leak detection pump? I didn't see smoke coming from anywhere else on the engine side, haven't ran smoke down the fuel tank side. Thanks!