Hey guys, I've been struggling to figure out what is going on with my Jeep. Here is some quick background on what's going on:

I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with a 4.0 Liter inline v6 and manual 5-speed transmission. It has ~225,000 miles right now. I was driving home on saturday night and my Jeep just died while driving, lost power steering and I man-handled it onto the shoulder of the road. When I tried to crank it, the gauge cluster would light up, but it would no-crank-no-start and all I would hear was a click sound. When I first started up my Jeep on that drive, the gauges were wonky- the battery gauge was low, all the way to the far left; the oil pressure gauge was a little higher and further to the right than it usually is.

I ended up getting it towed to my house and the tow truck driver told me he thought it sounded like an alternator issue. He hooked up his portable jump box to my Jeep and it cranked and started with no problem, but as soon as he disconnected the cables, it died after a few seconds. I bought a new alternator and replaced the old one yesterday. Tried jumping it from my girlfriend's vehicle and still no-crank-no-start with just a click sound. The battery still has enough power to run my interior lights.

So this is where I'm at now. The battery terminals were very corroded and the battery is probably 3 +/- 1 year old. Does this sound like it's a battery issue to you guys? Or something else? I have no idea what direction to head at this point besides cleaning the battery terminals and trying to get better connection on a jump-start and trying again.

If there is any other pertinent information needed, let me know and I'll give it ASAP. Thanks so much.

Over the summer I had error P0394 (camshaft posposition sensor). I recently changed the VVT sprocket and solenoid and that solved the P0394 code.

But now I am getting a P2302 (Coil A Secondary Circuit) error code. I noticed the plug that connects to that coil was broken and would not stay seated, so I spliced it with an OEM from Oriley's.

I also switched the coil and spark plug with the one from Coil C and spark plug 3 and the error stayed with location, not the coi and spark plugl. I also took a spare coil and spark plug and just hooked that up and saw a blue spark to confirm that the coil and plug were firing

The engine still sends the P2302 and runs rough. Anyone have ideas or ran into this before? Where I am stumped is that the error only manifested after the VVT sprocket and solenoid replacement.

Uconnect might just make my husband lose his mind.

Like some others, my 2016 JKUR decides to stall every now and again. Doesn’t matter if I’m doing 25 or 70, it stalls, I loose power and have to bull it to the shoulder. The CEL is always too rich on number one. I know it’s getting air, I have a supercharger on it. I’ve replaced the crank sensor, the camshaft sensor, temperature sensor, all O2 sensors, and some other odds and ends. Now I’m replacing the fuel injectors (I’m hoping the number 1 has just been leaking too much fuel into the combustion chamber). I’m also going to change the spark plugs since I’ve removed everything to get at the injectors. Don’t know if this will fix the problem, but we’ll see. Anyone else have the mystery stalling and how did you fix it?

2010 Jeep Wrangler with the 3.8 and a manual transmission.

Northeastern Florida. Temps were in the middle 80s yesterday.

As the title states, I'm chasing a P0481 code. Recently I've replaced the: radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing, fan assembly, and high speed fan relay. After doing all that, it ran fine for a while. Recently, it threw a P0481, so I replaced the coolant temp sensor and that seemed to fix it.

I've put roughly 130 miles on it since replacing the temp sensor(all of these miles were without the ac on). Yesterday, drove it another roughly 20 miles and all was well(ac on most of the way), until I went to park. In the parking lot(with ac off), temp started to climb. I have a Traildash 2, so I was able to see the actual temp.

The needle never climbed past center, but the temp got to 228, and the fan never kicked on. Parked it for about 20 minutes. Came back and started her up. Temp had gone down to 208 or so. Stayed in the parking spot and let the temp climb. Hit 222, the fan kicked in(ac off), she dropped to normal operating temp, fan turned off, temp climbed back up(still with no ac), and the fan never kicked in. Turned it off and let it sit for a few minutes. Turned it back on, temp climbed, fan kicked in.

Drove it home doing mostly highway driving and it stayed around 190ish to the low 200s(ac still off). Once I got home, I let it run. Temp climbed back up and fan didn't kick in. Shut her down and let her sit for an hour or so. Turned it back on, let it get up to temp and the fan kicked in, and the temp dropped back to normal. Let the temp climb again and the fan kicked back on(all of this without the ac on).

Picked up a bottle of electrical connector cleaner, but haven't tried that yet.

Has anyone had an issue like this before? Is there anything I'm missing? Maybe a loose connection somewhere?

I bought a 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ a couple of days ago, and I love it! I did see though some parts were banged up or worn out, so I am going to be upgrading those parts. Do you think buying them off the Jeep website is best? I haven't looked but I know the prices going to be high lol.

Ever since i bought the car I have never been able to close the windows automatically. It can go down with one click but not up automatically. The only window I can control is the diversity side one, if it want to controll all, ccan I replace just the windows master power switch? The vehicle is a jeep cherokee 2021 sport

Hi, I've got a jeep cherokee 2021 sport that doesn't have the fog lights. It just got plastic covers where they are supposed to be. What I can do and what I need to do to have them i suppose that I need new fog lights and change the internal light nob to a fog what, what else and how? Is there a guide that I can find? Every time I try to search things for my car all I find is for the grand cherokee

I’d like to put a WW II knob on my JKU stick shift; I like the connection to both by grandfathers serving and having driven jeeps in the war. Has anyone done this?

I have a 2012 3.6l JKU and my clutch is making the most God awful squealing. I'm turning heads and not in a good way. Any recommendations for a new clutch? Should I go OEM or upgrade? Any good websites I should check out for a good deal? Thank you

Have a 1984 cj7 4.2l I went to replace the rear main seal on the Jeep when I was trying to get the upper part out I noticed the groove where it fits into was just filled with metal solid metal would not punch out the bottom part was as normal this is a replacement engine so I don’t know much about it has anybody ever seen anything like this I cannot find anything written about this situation how am I supposed to fix the rear main seal when I can’t get the top half of it in

2004 4.0 270k wj

Well, I got this far and it wasn’t obvious till now. The rest of the cylinders are fine. And it’s only low on one side at the top of the cylinder wall. How bad is this? Can I proceed with the DIY?

Hey! I was wondering with anyone has used this head unit on their TJ?

PLZ 7" Wireless Double Din Car... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1BGXBG4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got it all installed except the rear camera, I was hoping someone could enlighten me on how to set it up so that it turns on when setting it to reverse?

I used T-tap terminals to tap into the power of the reverse light but that didn’t really help.

Thanks!

Edit: Adding Jeep info

Jeep wrangler 2002 SE

2.5L engine

People always have questions about this topic, but it seems no one here has tackled it. So here it goes!

The Owner's Manual says "service the transmission at 120,000 miles (fluid & filter change). 60,000 for severe driving. Well I call "bullshit".

Trust me when I tell you, if you service the W5A580 Auto transmission (which is a very robust and quality transmission) at 60,000 mile intervals, or even 30,000 to 40,000 mile intervals, you are better off! I drive in stop & go traffic, which I consider "severe" compared to "routine". I had mine dealer serviced at 60,000 miles. Well, my 2016 is out of warranty and I am a big DIY guy, so I now do a lot more of my own work. I decided to add a PPE Transmission pan with magnetic drain plug just a bit before 90,000 miles. (Quick note: having an aftermarket y-pipe in your exhaust, like AFE, makes this so much easier.) To install the new pan, I had to drain the transmission. I figured while it was open, it would be a good time to change the filter and put new fluid in it. Best decision I made, because the fluid was getting dirty (but not a disaster yet) after 30,000 miles. I found a complete kit with fluid (Fuchs 4134 ATF, Febi Bilstein trans filter, gasket (didn't need it as PPE pan has a proprietary one), and the connector for the electronics. Only cost me around $140 for the complete kit on eBay. I would rather do MORE service intervals for longevity, than blow a transmission and have to drop $5,000 to $6,000 getting a new one.

TIPS:

#1) Get a Topsider pump or similar fluid extractor to pull fluid from the dipstick tube. Do it repeatedly until it can pull no more. Reduces mess when you pull the factory pan. Some fluid will remain in the pan. Don't spill it. You need to measure the amount removed to make the process easier. Note: If you have a Jeep hard top removal kit with the mini-ratchet and torx bits, it can be used to unbolt the transmission pan.

#2) Get a Rubbermaid food container with graduations/measurements on it. Pour all you pulled via the Topsider and whatever is left in the pan into it. This way you have an idea how much you have to put back in! Saves you a ton of headaches & guess-work. Amazon sells both the Topsider and the Rubbermaid container. The Rubbermaid cleans up easily too!!

#3) Once you pull the old filter, squeeze the plastic body over the Rubbermaid container. It holds a bit of fluid. Then trash the old filter.

#4) Put a little fresh ATF on the o-ring for the new filter, then install it. Push the filter in place firmly.

#5) Install the new gasket onto the pan, then reinstall the pan.

#6) Judging by the fluid amount pulled when you drained and measured it, slowly refill the transmission with the new fluid.

#7) After refilling, start the Jeep. Let it idle, and after about 10 minutes, perform a "garage shift". Foot on the brake, parking brake engaged. Shift from Park to Reverse (count to ten), Neutral (count to ten), Drive (count to 10) then reverse the procedure and end in Park.

#8) Pull the dipstick, wipe, dip, check the level. As long as it isn't still showing too low, take it for a road test (Radio off, window down). You are listening and feeling for any abnormal noises, shift lag, shudder, etc. If all goes well, re-check your levels afterwards and you are DONE!!

NOTES:

#1) I like Fuchs 4134 ATF because it is Mercedes approved & Made in Germany (the W5A580 5 Speed Auto is a Mercedes trans), but any quality ATF+4 Approved by MOPAR/CHRYSLER or Mercedes Benz for this transmission will work!!

#2) A QUALITY filter is essential. Use a reputable brand. MOPAR, Mercedes Benz, Febi Bilstein, etc. Cheaper isn't always the most economic choice in the long run.

#3) Just like you have an oil change reminder sticker, it MIGHT be a good idea to do the same for your transmission. It's easy for it to slip your mind.

#4) Some Jeepers and other car enthusiasts add a little LubeGuard ATF additive to their transmissions. I hear great things, and it supposedly keeps it shifting smoothly.

#5) Tons of YouTube videos exist showing the Topsider pump in action, and the whole fluid drain, pan drop, and filter replacement. If it's going to be your first time, watch some videos from different sources. It makes it so easy. After doing it yourself once or twice, it is quick & easy.

I hope this helps. Happy Jeeping!!!

I recently changed the oil in my 2018 JK (71,000 miles) after changing the oil my cousin suggested that I add Zmax oil additive and fuel tank cleaner as well. I’m usually skeptical about these things because I feel like they don’t work. Has anyone use this product or anything similar to it and can attest to it’s benefits? If so, what was your experience?

I need 6 7/16-24 1&1/4 inch bolts to replace the ones I pulled off, I've checked with 4 auto part and 2 hardware stores, all have been surprised by that measurement and remeasure and get the same thing. I've looked online but can't find them... any secret places online anyone would recomend?

This is the closest thing I've found

7/16"-20 x 1 1/4" (FT) Fine Thread Grade 8 Hex Cap Screw (Bolt) - USA Alloy Steel Black Oxide Pk 25 https://a.co/d/83ARkAs

Nobody seems to carry > 20

Hi!

My carpets are a torn-up mess under my factory add-on rubber floor mats.

I am planning on replacing it with the Armorlite floor system.

I noticed some rusting under my driver's side carpet. I was planning to clean and prep it with por15 rust kit, any reason not to do that or proceed a different way?

Customer has a 2014 jeep.cherokee they put in phillips led headlights and Phillips led 21w canbus led . Still have low beam messages on the Dash.

Any insight of how to fix the canbus message for led headlights?

2004 4.0 wj 270k

The engine is still in frame, the oil pan is still installed atm. Head is off, lifters/rods are out, timing cover/chain/sprockets are off as well as the little plate that holds the cam in. I can only get the cam out 2 lobes. Idk what I’m doing wrong and I don’t want to ruin anything by turning and yanking on it. Please advise.

Everything on this jeep that should be easy - is absolutely not.

Last year my car started sounding creaky on the front passenger side mostly. I changed my shocks, and I cleaned and greased my brakes during the last change. It still sounds creaky at slow speeds especially during turns, and when I brake it sounds creaky.

I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 140k miles

So my truck has been saving for a year not driving. I also have a oil leak and a transmission leak not sure why because I haven’t drove it for a year. It’s been sitting but I change my spark plugs, my coils, ignition wire set alternator battery, ignition switch, crank shaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor and fuel pump oil temperature sensor as well still have a good condition starter. Why doesn’t my truck turn over and stay on after the replacements