I have a 96 and the cooling system won’t stop fighting me. Has mishimoto radiator, new aux fan, new fan clutch, has a shroud, flowkooler water pump, new thermostat, new heater core, the whole ac system including condenser and evaporator are new, fresh coolant flush, and spent about an hour burping it with a no spill funnel until no bubbles were present. Coolant is full in the both the radiator and the overflow. I’m in Arizona, when I drive in the morning needle stays in the center of the gauge, when I drive home in the evening on the highway with the ac on it will creep up to about this point, only way to get it to go down is turn heat on full blast. It’s on 35s with 4.88 gears. Is there anything else that could cause it to run hot only when it’s hotter outside? No oil in coolant, no coolant in oil. Going to still test the coolant for exhaust gases and do a compression test this weekend, anything else I should look into, I was thinking of doing a ZJ fan clutch but not sure that would really help on the highway anyway. I put an infrared thermometer on the upper and lower hoses and they had about a 10* difference. When putting infrared on multiple spots on radiator is was fairly consistent around 140*. I’m going to also drive it with my scangauge connected soon to make sure the gauge is accurate but I just checked it in my driveway and it seemed like the gauge is fairly accurate. It was idling around 214*

My soft stock leaf springs finally met their match. We had our Cherokee with way too much gear for a week camping in New Mexico. We found a killer spot called McBride’s in Albuquerque that turned our jeep around quick as we needed it for all our adventures the rest of the week in the mountains and desert. Ended up adding a couple inches in back and man it just drives and looks way better. One more thing checked off the list on the restoration.

Ok so I have been going back and forth with this. I don't quite understand the whole timing section of my engine. I'm turning my 4 l into a 4.6 stroker with all new parts but I'm wondering can I keep my original camshaft, do I need to adjust the timing for the increased displacement. I'm really only confused on the timing because I've heard people have trouble with it. I really want to do it correctly and not throw it together like some crackheads do. My plan is to use it on the rocks.

I have a 1999 xj and can’t find a belt that fits for it? the thing squeaks when the A/C is on and we suspect the belt, so when trying to change it with “compatible” belts found at autozone, they don’t fit. which ones do?

Looking to buy. Does the 5 not being aligned mean this odometer has been tampered with?

Well Jeep family. It's time to let someone do something with my 88 Comanche Sport. I have MS and won't be able to finish. Let alone be able to do any more. This community should have someone, I can trust, to own, to finish and love this beauty. Message for details.

Hello, I recently posted about rough idle and was informed to check the fuel system, I have yet to do it because of some issues in my personal life.

However, I wanted to see if the current issues could be a continuation of fuel problems or if anybody else has experienced this.

I have a 2000 Cherokee, 4.0 L, 6 cyl, 142,000 miles and very recently it has been misfiring (cyl 2 and 5) so extremely it won’t drive without a blinking cel. I’ve also experienced rough idle and rough drive, sputtering followed by loss of acceleration (at about 40 mph) that feels to be in the rear. No smell or odd noises like clanking or banging or popping.

I am taking it to a shop tomorrow I just want to get a better idea of what I’m dealing with. Hoping it’ll make it to the shop 🤞(ik it could be anything but just looking for potential leads). I don’t want to damage my cat more than it probably is.

Replacing rear leafs in my XJ and it needs new shackles. No lift so looking for OEM size replacement. What’s your go-to brand? One local parts store can get me a MOOG kit with bolts and bushings for $200 but they are much cheaper online. Everywhere else locally they are discontinued or unable to get them.

I just had installed a lockRite rear differential ratcheting locker and I like that it’s been able to push me out of any situation. I want to get a lunchbox locker for my front differential, but the gear shop I’m bringing it too doesn’t recommend that at all. The owner I spoke with explained to me that if I tried turning it would bind up both sides. According to my research some people are okay with them some people aren’t. I just don’t want I get an ox or arb locker because I don’t see the coin being worth dropping on them. What do you guys think?

Thinking about buying this engine and throwing it in my 2000 Cherokee but it’s from a 98 should it work fine ??

Didn't drive it at all and it's only wet in the back, even tried parking on a slight decline so that the engine is level. The pan itself is dry near the plug. Also, would that crack in the plate cause a leak and need to be replaced as well? And is it even worth the $1500 to get someone else to do it? I can't stand leaks and it's eating at me

Always wished my electric fan kicked on sooner before I hit heat soak and these seems like the perfect solution. Anyone tried these from K-Suspension?

I’m picking one up. Has 193k miles on it, the engine was replaced at 155k (assuming a junker) the guy that did the work is our mechanic at work in the dynolab not overly concerned about that. The brakes were mushy, haven’t driven an older vehicle in a while but they seemed overly mushy. Was watching a YouTube video where they swapped the master cylinder with a larger one from a Durango to give more pressure to the brakes. Was thinking of this as my first project. I will say this going in, I’m not the most mechanically inclined but am willing to try.

My question has anyone ever done that swap? Did it provide any benefit?

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