I had my sister and her boyfriend visiting and they spilled a drink on my decal parts which destroyed them completely. This is my first model and I was so exited of finishing it. Do you guys know if manufacturers ship those kind of things separately? Or will I have to buy a new 110€ set? The model is tamiya P-51 mustang 1/32

Anything else that could be used which is a bit cheaper or available? Mainly for 1/35/48 armour and 1/72/48 aircraft?

Thankyou!

https://preview.redd.it/hdm2prxukl5e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d83d2bb0a3749ec6553140aac66ee08585eb9f5

https://preview.redd.it/9y9cprxukl5e1.jpg?width=2783&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a6ed7188fb845f371e084e032bcde494edbb7cd8

Gday all :) Today i finished my second kit model, after the hurricane i posted some while ago. I managed to learn some preshading and i managed to use the stickers properly. i also tried some masking on the canopy and on the floating part.
I hope you like it :) Let me know and have a nice sunday!

Some context here, I am not looking to buy more paints or tools as it is a pain in the rear to get things up where I live. I am currently finishing up my He-162 Salamander Model kit and want to give it the sky grey underside and a dark green paint on the topside of the aircraft. I have Tamiya paintsAS-24 spray-can, and XF-61, XF-81, and XF-13 paints. I am stuck on which paint I should use, they both look very similar to one another, and was wondering if I should just use XF-61 because it is easier and more time efficient for myself. I’ll post finished results of the project once I complete painting and constructing the kit.

I picked up some acetone to make sprue goo to help recycle my piles of sprue and help with some particularly poor quality resin kits that need a lot of filling. however the viscosity of adding straight acetone to sprue is not what I expected, it's basically a soft homogeneous clump and not liquid at all, not practical for fine application like joins and gaps. watching a few more videos about it I see this is what I should have expected, and really what I needed was some kind of mix of solvents like what is present in the tamiya products.

so, I suppose my question is to the chemists here, is there anything I can do to salvage what I have made so far?

I've seen people mention MEK, can I mix that 50/50 with acetone to make a similar solution that will result in a more fluid plastic that can be applied with a brush?

butyl acetate/butanone is mentioned as the second ingredient in tamiya glues, but that is prohibitably expensive here in the UK and not readily available.

TLDR: I have a jar of 100% acetone sprue goo that is too thick to use, what can I add to this to make it runnier/thinner?

I tried to make it look like my wife's Porsche Gasoline Junior (986). Close enough. Turned out fine I think

Does anybody know a good place to buy a 1965 Lincoln Continental convertible model. I'm new to model making and not familiar with good sites to buy from.

this is on a model car

I recently just cleared my first kit with x-22 and made the mistake of using x20-a instead of lacquer thinner, I've waited around 4 or 5 days so is it safe to use masking take to paint the windows trims?

and after that how long should I wait before polishing? I got some orange peel and I was wondering if I could just use tamiya coarse and fine compounds instead of sandpaper, I've heard x-22 is very easy to burn through if not careful so i don't really want to risk having to start over for a third time lol.

How do you get rid of fingerprints that show on dust and pigments on the model?

I just got the F-15e strike eagle from revell, any advice before I get started?

I’m working on my first kit (Meng Merkava MK4), and the manual shows some pieces attached with a solid arrow and others with a dotted arrow.

The manual doesn’t specify what the dotted arrow means. Can anyone clarify?

Thanks!

As the title, I will be getting my first airbrush soon I have decided on iwata - eclipse hp-bs (big funnel hp-cs is not available where I live currently) with a haosheng compressor with t 4L tank and a coller (42psi max) also with regulator. As for using the airbrush, I know nothing, what should I do / don't How to maximise the airbrush's life span I made research on thinning paints and the psi usage but other than that, ı know nothing. Any help / advice is appreciated :3 thanks

I have done a brown wash and a black pin wash should I keep going suggestions?

Just found this deep inside one of my local model shops, got it for £16 but soon as i got home and opened it up holy flash everywhere on everything. Has anyone built this kit or ran into one with such old tooling that it's not even worth the glue to get it built. BTW I'm very new to the hobby this will be my 3rd kit currently saving a tamiya 1/48 me-262 incase this really ends it for me.

Hiya, kinda bummed at myself, I made the rookie mistake of not cleaning out my airbrush enough after spraying a metallic coat, and my clear coat ended up looking like this, I wouldn’t mind so much but obviously the majority of what is here is decal and I’d rather not run the risk of damaging them, is there any other option/s to reduce the metallic flake or is it best to leave it, thank youuu :)