/r/TerrainBuilding
This sub-reddit is for those who craft, build, and paint terrain.
Welcome to r/Terrainbuilding!
The Old Format Link: https://old.reddit.com/r/TerrainBuilding/
This is the spot for all types of tabletop terrain. From D&D to Infinity, we'll take all comers. We love to see what our fellow Redditors are making for their games. Post your work in progress projects and completed works. The regulars here are always happy to answer any questions you may have about materials or methods!
Why was my post flagged as spam and deleted? This sub uses an auto moderator to clean up spam. If you make a new post on r/terrainbuilding and your account has less than 100 Karma it will be flagged as spam. Moderators will manually approve terrain related posts throughout the day by checking the queue. This is to combat the increasing issue of spam. Once your account is above the 100 Karma threshold your account will not have this issue. We do apologize for any inconvenience as your original post may appear hours after it was originally posted.
Before You Post Kickstarter Links are frowned upon: If you are the creator of the Kickstarter - by all means post your work in progress photos, some of your painted final products, and please talk about what you're trying to accomplish. Members of the community can easily locate your product by clicking on your Reddit Profile or using Google. This rule has been implemented for the continuous Kickstarter topics that are posted that contain a simple link with a 3d render and it's Kickstarter goals.
Auction Links will be removed. No direct links to eBay or your Etsy store. You can mention that the piece of terrain is for sale in the comments and members of the community can direct message you for the link. r/terrainbuilding is not responsible for any financial transactions that occur through comments or personal messages. Be smart! Please check out r/miniswap
Offering Services: Less is More Do not post frequent topics offering services or links to your commission website – these will be deleted. r/terrainbuilding is not responsible for any financial transactions that occur through comments or personal messages. Be smart! Please check out r/brushforhire for hiring other artists through a better avenue than this sub.
3D Printing
You are not allowed to post unpainted 3D Prints or advertise for 3D print kickstarters. We allow the creator or pledgers of kickstarters, commission painters, and YouTube personality to post their videos, products, and services but within reason. This sub can easily turn into an advertisement list of products, webstores, or STL download sites. We want to keep the homegrown forum community vibe thats welcoming to new players without spamming them with products to buy.
e.g. User crossposts a new render every other day in blender posts of variations D&D furniture on ten other subs.
This is disallowed The cross-posts are really low effort
e.g. Artist creates a free STL and prints it out and paints it with a basic drybrush
this is allowed
If someone is PAINTING 3d prints.... they should absolutely be able to post their terrain. 3D printing is probably the future and there shouldn't be any grievances against those who print.
Awesome Terrain related sites:
u/pixelastic's awesome subreddit image parser
Hirst Arts Fantasy Architecture
Related Subreddits
Thank you for reading
/r/TerrainBuilding
Hi guys, I've built a castle board basically for skirmish games, but I'm a bit stumped on what kind of stuff would look good / be playable for the courtyard. The courtyard dimensions are roughly 40x40cm.
Lately, I have watched a few videos about creating magnetic terrain and battle mats and I wondering if y'all think these things can be merged. My idea is this:
Use a standardish canvas/caulking battle mat process except add either iron powder or iron oxide to the mix prior to smoothing out the base layer. My thought is that this approach should make a ferro magnetic substrate to which minis and magnetized terrain would hold.
As I have never made a canvas mat what are your favorite base mixes? I have seen caulking alone, caulk+paint, caulk+grout/dirt/sand, Some people seem to put caulk base and then cover with sand and pebbles then seal down. Obviously, I will want to add the my iron to the caulk.
My initial thought was something like a caulk + cheapy burnt umber acrylic paint+iron smeared onto the canvas. Add some sand/dirt mix to the top. Seal the whole surface with a PVA/water matte sealant. Maybe follow up with various colors of wash to get natural dirt colors.
Does that seem like a practical solution?
I think I am going to try to make some magnet patches of grass to stick down on the mat rather than put grass on the mat base. Thoughts?
Another question, how do you go about making sure the mat isn't too magnetic such that every time a magnetic mini is moved it moves the play surface? Suppose there is a perfect cocktail of iron to goop that results in enough to hold terrain and minis a bit, but not enough to move the weight of the mat? Perhaps adding true corner magnets to the back of the mat and double sticking magnets in the table would be sufficient to keep it put.
Is this a terrible idea and would it be better to go back to building terrain on sheet metal bases? I really like the light, roll-up of a battle mat...
Hi, I recently got into terrain building and just started my first attempt on modular terrain but i keep failing as i dont have a proxxon and my cuts are there by "questionable" any help, tips or whatever would be appreciated thanks!
I'm making some concrete-looking tiles with XPS foam and, following SmolWorld's tutorial, am putting a base color of Deck Tan on after sealing it. This time I sealed it with what I thought was a pretty universal method of using Black Magic Craft's black paint + Mod Podge mix - but I ended up having to apply like 4-5 coats of the deck tan on top of the black in order to get decent coverage, obscuring some detail.
Is the Black Paint + Mod Podge technique only good when you're making stone or grey tiles, like to be drybrushed on top of? Should I instead be a) mixing a lighter color in with the Mod Podge for my seal or b) just use plain, slightly watered down Mod Podge and paint on top of that? Or some third thing I don't know about?
Seems like a lot of crafters on Youtube have no problem getting good coverage with like one or two coats with any color after the BMC method is used...
This has been the most positive and helpful group of mixed modellers and hobbyists I've found in a while and just wanted to say thank you all for being so pleasant and welcoming.
Does anyone know if shifting lands products work on most hot wire cutters, or do they only fit/work with proxxons?
It's called down from 32mm by 60% and 8nshould have added a layer of 5mm xps to the top. Looking at that for future tiles. Now I'm trying to come up with a way to add stonework/cobbles to the road and fountain area. Thanks.
I remember years ago, looking at Warhammer fantasy boards on YouTube and seeing one that was a flat green field with a cliff with a cave with mushrooms and like a grass on top, it was specifically designed for orcs and goblins and had a ramshackle elevator thing
it’s awesome and i loved it, if might have been green leaf terrain or an older creator- any help or leads would be great
or similar projects
As in title, I'm looking for a free, intuitive software to design MDF/HDF/Plywood lasercut terrains (3mm thick).
I've tried InkScape, but it's more like a vector illustrator than CAD software.
FreeCAD is too much focused on 3D designing in my experiece.
Since lasercut designing is based on 2D drafting, I'm looking for a software that focuses mostly on 2D with an option to turn the elements into a 3D parts (mentioned 3mm thickness as a constant Z dimension) in an assembly mode.
On daily basis I'm working with PCCAMPLUS and it works wonders with it's simplicity of CAD module. On the other hand it's very limited with it's functions and I use it only to design building frames.
Is there any free software that may meet my requirements?