I am having an issue with this mixer where the audio will work as normal, but then suddenly make a screeching sound with the audio being played, then audio becomes normal again.

I had stopped using the mixer for a year because I was trying the GoXLR. I never heard that screech when using it. I went back to the ProFx because I really miss the crisp clear audio that comes out of it. Plus, I like the build quality and size of it, compared to GoXLR. But then that screeching sound returned, confirming it's with the ProFx6 that I'm experiencing the issue. It happened during a playback of a YT video, so I went back to that spot to see if I'd hear it again, but the playback was clean.

Any ideas on how I can get rid of it? I am using Windows 10, mixer connected to PC via USB-C on both ends (Tried with USB-C to USB-A, same result). All knobs are on unity, and I am using the latest driver, though it seems like Mackie does not really update the driver, but can't be too certain about that.

• The Problem: My USB sound card is detected on my laptop, but neither the audio output nor the microphone works. However, the same sound card works perfectly on my PC (both mic and audio work).
• What I’ve Tried So Far:
  1. The device is detected in Device Manager with no errors.
  2. I’ve set it as the default input/output device in Windows Sound settings
  3. I’ve tried multiple USB ports on my laptop – no change.
  4. I’ve restarted Windows Audio Services
  5. I’ve reinstalled drivers (both automatic and manual selection).

Came across and audio, a man shouting some words in an army, but every word he sent was in some sort of twisted form and every time he spoke the sound in the background would continuously rise creating fear or an adrenaline rush. I recall someone saying it was created by the army for testing or something.

Is X Lossless Decoder better than dbpoweramp or is it the other way around? And Fre:ac? And Exact Audio Copy? In which way is one better than the other?

Which one is best for Windows and which one for Macos?

For comfort (the irony), I have recently moved away from a Logitech headset and upgraded to a Rode Pod Mic, with a Rode AI1 with some Linsoul KZ ZS10 Pro IEM's. I also have a POSUGEAR Headphone Jack Adapter plugged in as the AI1 doesn't support 3.5mm.

I have had it all for maybe a week now and yesterday is when the incident first happened. I was playing some games on discord talking to friends when a terrible pop and whine happened so loud I jumped and yanked the headphones out. It has done it again today and I have no idea what's causing it. Is it the headphones or the interface?

I can almost hear it coming now as there is a slight charge-up before the pops occur.

Is this a normal fixable issue or should I send everything back?

EDIT: I just remembered after having posted that when it happened first, I yanked the headphones out, and went to tell my friends what happened on push to talk and they heard the screech through game chat, which leads me to believe it's the interface?

Hey guys,

I am planning on buying the SRH440-BK headphones which I believe comes with a 2.5mm jack connector to the headphones. Since I wanted to attach a modmic to this (V-MODA since it is in budget), I wanted to know if any 3.5mm female to 2.5mm male adapter will work like this one? https://www.amazon.in/Electop-2-5mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01GC6LR84#customerReviews

Thanks!

Hi community, I like to install a couple of speakers in a community-house that will be used for background-music only.

Looking at

• 2x Crown DriveCore XLS 1502 PA amp (prisewise this a good option and I have good experience with crown-amps): power output specs, 4Ω Dual 525W

• 2 sets (1 set outdoor and 1 set indoor) of both 4 Audac WX502MK2 speakers (black) 8Ω, Peak : 100 - 199 watt, Rms : 50 - 99 watt. Wire-connector on the back offers easy link through connection.

My calculations are the same for each amp. I plan to have both channels driving two speakers connected in parallel (linked through at the back of the first speaker in line). Cable lengths would be around 10m between the amp and the first speaker, and again 10m to the last speaker. Using 2,5mm audio cable.

This results in an impedance of (8×8) / (8+8) = 4Ω per channel. The amp would then deliver a maximum of ~99W RMS per speaker (totaling ~200W RMS per channel) and ~199W peak per speaker (totaling ~400W peak per channel). Both values align well with the amp’s power ratings at 4Ω.

Is this the correct way to calculate it? Should I focus on both peak and RMS values, or is RMS the only one that really matters?

Also, would you consider this a common approach when installing speakers in a larger area—to ensure even sound distribution while minimizing equipment cost and space? Or would it be better to drive each speaker pair with its own dedicated amp for safety and reliability?

Lastly, if there's a completely different setup that would be more suitable (even without knowing the exact venue), I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks for your advice!

I've been using a UA Volt 2 for the last couple of years without issue but starting yesterday I have been getting random popping noises.

I use it only with my headphones and I am hearing this popping anytime there is audio playing regardless of the source.

I am hearing this popping through Guitar Rig 7 and also when watching random Youtube videos.

So I’m waiting for a Microphone to get delivered, its 36v and comes with XLR to 3.5mm cable , I’m wondering if I should invest buying a XLR to XLR cable for when I’m plugging it into my 48v audio interface?, will XLR to XLR make a difference in quality compared to XLR to 3.5? I’m new to Microphones :)

I have Sony WH-CH700N for about 6 years now and I am noticing more recently that I am getting static noise when any form of noise comes from PC wether its music, videos or games.

The noise from games sound very tinny.

I am connected to a USB dongle plugged into USB.

Is this a common thing with bluetooth headphones? Should I get wired?

Hey everybody.

I want to ruin my neighbour's sleep with a speaker playing a recording of their own neurotic dog. The speaker needs to be powerful enough to keep them awake at 50ft give or take and it's gonna be outside.

I've been searching for options but all them companies show a very different specs and i'm very lost in terms of the required wattage for this task, so, what do you recommend?

I have a pair of headphones i wanna use on my pc, but for some reason they started playing back the audio coming through my headphones through the microphone, not hearing it in the background but literally 1:1 playback like as if i was using my microphone as a speaker, please help me out, i have a Alc 1200 as my onboard sound, i plug in my headphones into my PC case where it should take both input and output just fine, i did indeed test it out with another mobo, were it worked fine, i only recently had these issues.

I also want my gaming headset to answer calls and control the volume of my PC on the fly. My current headset allows me to pick up and hang up calls from a button but does not allow me to adjust volumes, and it can get hectic when picking up a call with games where pausing is not an option.

I think there has to be some hardware or maybe even software I can use to do this, but since I don't know the right terms, I can't find it. I want this to work regardless of what headset I get, so if there could be a button on my phone that I can use to hang up calls, that would be perfect. I am on a Windows 10 machine, and I have an iPhone 16. I currently also have a Bluetooth headset, but going back to wired isn't out of the question either.

Hey, all. A while ago I purchased a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th Gen audio interface to run my speakers and recording equipment through. Almost immediately I was having issues with the audio output randomly disconnecting. An issue that could only be (temporarily) fixed by unplugging and plugging the power cable back in. I did eventually find a band-aid solution that worked for a while, but the problems have since resurfaced.

I have scoured the internet for every possible solution to this, but I have found nothing that works. Focusrite was always a highly recommended brand online, but apparently this is an issue that has been around for a while. I am completely fed up with Focusrite and I am looking for an alternative brand at a similar pricepoint.

I mostly do amateur YouTube recording as a hobby. I have 2 XLR microphones: an SM-7 dB, an Audio-Technica broadcast headset. And a pair of Yamaha Hs5 studio monitors. So, I need something with at least two XLR inputs, left and right stereo output, and an output for the headset.

Thank you to anyone who can provide some help and feedback.

I see this on about 90% of videos I play on Reddit. They’ll just randomly mute once or twice during the video. I’m positive I’m not touching anything on the phone during playback. Just barely holding the case to watch horizontally. Anyone?

Edit: ‘*…videos just stop playing’

So here is the scenario. We have an interactive app that users can interact with using audio conversations. The app runs on a Mac and we need to be able to connect two wireless headphones with built-in mics to it and have it listen from both the mics.

With a Mac, you can create an aggregate device but for some reason it doesn’t recognise two microphones.

Is there anything out there that can help me do this?

Hey everyone,

I’ve been using a Teyun Q12 audio interface with my MSI GF63 gaming laptop (Windows 11) for a while now, and I’m running into some frustrating issues. The latency is really bad, especially when I’m using amp sims like Guitar Rig or Amplitube, and there’s a noticeable amount of noise in the signal. It’s making it really hard to play and record guitar properly.

Here’s my setup:

Laptop: MSI GF63 (Windows 11)

Processor: Intel Core i5-9300H

RAM: 16GB

Storage: 512GB SSD

Interface Teyun Q12

Software: Guitar Rig, Amplitube

I’ve tried adjusting the buffer size to 64 and updating drivers, but the delay and noise are still there. Has anyone else dealt with this? If so, do you have any tips or fixes to reduce the delay and noise? I’d really appreciate any advice!

Thanks in advance!

For the entire time ive used my usb fifine mic its been great. But recently it has been incredibly unresponsive with my friends just barely being able to hear me. The dial is at maximum volume so im not sure what is happening. Please let me know if you think you know the solution .

I've got a 16'x16' space that I want to outfit with 4 speakers (probably Genelec 8010a) and a sub. I want to use it for electronic music production and for a general listening space (small parties, or with a single person toward the middle of the room) with an option to produce/play quadraphonic sound.

I'm thinking about mounting the speakers in each of the corners at about 8' high. I imagine putting the laptop either in the center of the room for production, or at the midline between two of the speakers, closer to the edge of the room.

What factors should I consider?

For production: I'm wondering if I will need to turn off the "back" pair for production (unless I'm doing quadrophonic production). Will they be close enough to the laptop for music production?

For listening: Will the Genelecs fill the space pretty well? Will there potentially be interference issues? Nodal dead zones (I don't know if there is an official term)?

Thanks!

Hi. This feels like a dumb question but I'd like confirmation still. I want to have inline connectors in my speaker wires so I can unplug from one amp and plug into another without having to get to the back of my amps each time. Leaving wires hanging out of each amp I can plug the speakers into. What options are there? I'm thinking of rca male and female plugs but unsure because of the specific polar requirements. I hope this makes sense.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this is a dumb or frequent question.

Hey,

I have a pair of AKG K612 PRO headphones plugged in to my computer (ASUS Z490-F Motherboard) directly into the front 3.5mm headphone out port. The problem I have is that it seems that the audio gets distorted or does not increase in perceived loudness after a certain volume level in Windows. Is there a way for me to fix this or do I need to buy a new motherboard or something else?

Hello!

As the title suggests I have an audio interface (Universal Audio Volt 2) that I use with Studio One 7. I'm using iLoud monitors direct from the interface. I would like to be able to use a volume knob connected through usb to control all volume.

I can control the volume of my computer if my audio source is the Volt 2's source - but I can't control the volume with the external knob when I'm in my DAW.

The reason I want to do this is I have OCD with cable management and don't want to have the interface on my desk. Right now it's under and I have to feel around for the volume so I was hoping it would be able to control the volume out of the speakers.

Any suggestions along the line of keeping my setup generally as is would be helpful, thanks!

Hows it going audiophiles. I have a client in a certain circumstances that needs to record vocals over the phone. The client is mentioning a cable that somehow turns the phone into a microphone. I have this situation occur before but at the time we simply recorded the phone directly into a u87 mic. Is there anyone who has experience with this or knows what cable the client could be referring to.

I'm looking to make some field recordings with two friends, just looking to document my hikes with my two friends. we wanted to do video and audio recording. my phone will suffice for the video, but we're not sure how to do the audio, if we just use the phone mic, it's not great at hearing all of us especially as we walk around. is there a wireless solution to this maybe? and also a cheap one? T_T any help is appreciated

Does anyone know if there’s a way to separate and mute one voice in a clip that’s speaking over another voice? I recently found a television series that unfortunately has become lost, but was found in the Ukrainian dub. The thing is, the Ukrainian voices are just dubbed over the English ones, so the English is still there. Is there any way I could remove the dubbed voices while leaving the English intact? I wasn’t sure if there were even any AI programs that could help with it. Thanks!

Thanks!

In a 15 sq metre room (small bedroom), I intend on using edifier s1000w speakers on my desktop for a general 2.0 speaker system. Bass should be good enough for now. I also have the chance to test out Edifier r1700bt speakers as part of the 4.0 surround option. (My motherboard has built in support, i would plug s1000 fronts into line out and r1700bt rears as mic in.). The rears would be about 2 metres behind me, around 1 metre apart. They also have way less power 66w vs 120w and smaller drivers 4 inch vs 5.5 inch. Would this setup still be better than stereo mainly for gaming, especially something like a shooter. Could i still balance them decently using a software like equalizer apo. Remember, the more powerful s1000w do sound more powerful and higher fidelity than the r1700bt. I dont need the r1700bt to do as much work, the s1000w can tackle most bass and volume. R1700bt as rear would be for further enveloping sound and complimentary direction audio as well as a bit more oomph.

Also both speaker sets are powered, no amp. I would control volume on windows, i have a usb volume knob for easy windows adjustment. Do any of you recommend this 4.0 setup? Would it be beneficial?

I've just ordered Soundcraft Notepad-8FX mixer with the intention of connecting my mic, akai mini play and guitar together into my interface and the Valeton VLP200 looper.

I want to connect the looper via AUX output on the mixer in stereo mode (with TRS jack) but after scrolling through the manual it appears that the stereo output mode is intended for headphones and goes through some amplification.

How screwed am I? Is it okay to connect the headphone output signal into instrument inputs of a looper pedal?