Hi Everyone,

Looking for the best possible outcome I can achieve in a non-perfect scenario.

What I currently have is 2 Front Speakers, 1 Center, 1 Sub, 2 Atmos sitting on top of the fronts, and finally 2 more in-ceiling speakers located just behind the listening position (1 ft behind, ~8-9ft apart).

I'm well aware in a perfect world I would need to put ear level speakers either on the sides or behind, but it's not possible, and then it becomes typical 5.1.4 setup.

Question, how should I utilize my speakers, specifically the in-ceiling ones? Should I use them as Rear, Surrounds, Rear Height, Top Middle or Top Rear?

Thanks

Been looking into a smallish sub for my shed. I have a stereo setup with an old pioneer receiver and two Klipsch xl-10 speakers. I have three subs on my list. SVS sb-2000 pro, RSL 10s mkii, and the REL 1205 mkii. This setup will be mostly for music and I only have one spot for the sub. No sub crawl allowed. I found the rel sub used locally for a decent price but not sure if would be more beneficial to get something with onboard dsp like the svs.

It's time to start saying f off to that fat orange moron and his bullshit.

https://madeinca.ca/category/electronics/

Polk and klipsch center.

15" vega sub passive

Yamaha rx-v379

Want a newer or better receiver

Reading the Dolby suggestions for 5.1 setup it had to Reduce echo by minimizing bare walls...but they didnt give anymore details than that. what does it mean?

Is it possible if yes how? and will it support dts hd 5.1?

Hi all, I finally got my first ever home theater up and running and I love it! TV is excellent, and I’m super pleased with L/R (KEF Q150s), surrounds, and my RSL sub (off to the side not pictured). My center channel is the only component giving me pause (KEF Q250C). It’s pulled forward and angled slightly up so I have a non-obstructed 9 foot line to my ears in a carpeted and fairly enclosed room. When the mix makes it hard to hear, I’ll boost the center or put dialog clarity in medium.

I’ve been watching movies for the past 2 months on this setup. But I don’t know, it seems like certain voice pitches sound noticeably worse than others on my center. In many cases, dialog clarity is excellent. Female voices tend to sound really good. Male voices are where I tend to have issues. I was watching Top Gun Maverick on 4K tonight. John Hamm’s voice sounded great; he has that deep, baritone way of speaking and it came through very rich, loud, and clear. But Tom Cruise’s natural voice in some scenes seemed to distract me on my center channel. He has that softer, subdued tone that seemed to cause faint muffling when he spoke louder. Hard to describe, it’s like he was speaking too loud for my center to process correctly. Is “boomy” the proper word? Not very “bright”? Maybe a little too “hard”?

I’ve calibrated everything with the built-in Audyssey on my Denon S760H and made my own small adjustments. Everything set to small, crossovers at 80 for L/C/R. I mainly listen at -18.0 (I guess that’s decibels below reference?) so not loud enough that I should have this issue. I know the KEF 250C is budget compared to some other centers, but I feel like at $480 I shouldn’t be distracted by this issue.

1. I have not downloaded the $20 audyssey app. I’ve heard I can disable midrange compensation; does that possibly sound like my issue since it’s only affecting certain pitches? I wouldn’t know what else to do with the app because I’m very new to the hobby.

2. Should I see what it sounds like with my center fully disabled and run a phantom? How do I go about doing this? Physically pull the center plugs out of my AVR? So that if I watch a movie in 5.1 it’ll just route the center sounds to my fronts automatically? Or can I test this without physically unplugging?

Looking for advice on what seems to be a hard issue to describe. I don’t believe it has anything to do with the acoustics of my room and everything to do with either the quality of the KEF 250C or how it’s been calibrated.

Gong through setup and speakers have no output? Any advice? Likely going to buy an Atmos.

How to eliminate the trailing effect in motion? I am using the max setting in the motion flow. Doing so leaves the trailing effect in the action scenes. But minimizing this setting or change to Auto makes the motion not as smooth. What is the ideal setting please? I am using Dolby Vision Bright.

TV is Sony KD85X91J. Playing content on AppleTV 4k and the Receiver is Denon S760H.

Please help!

Sorry if this is a stupid question. I couldn't really find this answer during my searches.

So I recently just bought a new TV with HDMI 2.1 capabilities (LG C4). My AVR is an older 2018 Denon 740H with no eARC or HDMI 2.1. Now, in order for me to get the perks such as 4K 120Hz, VRR etc.. it's best I plug directly into my TV and passthrough the audio via ARC to my AVR based on my research. Prior to this, my PS5 would be connected directly to the AVR with my older TV.

With that said, when it was connected to my AVR I would just use LPCM and the uncompressed audio would be handled by my AVR (5.1.2 speaker setup) and Blu-ray would get the best audio.

However, now that it's connected to my TV, given my setup, should I be using Dolby Atmos/DTS instead on the PS5 settings? Will I notice a difference when it comes to gaming? Are games already lossy to begin with so it in theory would it sound the same as before? The only difference now is just when watching Blu-rays since it won't passthrough lossless audio?

To follow that up, if I were to use LCPM still on the PS5 which now will be stereo.. should I keep it that way and do a Dolby up mix?? In other words, is up mixing LCPM (since it's uncompressed) a better setting on my PS5 vs Dolby Atmos/DTS for games?

I have a Yamaha RX-V6A. I have it in Straight mode.

I'm planning to get to 5.1.2 with Atmos, and so I will be needing to choose the 7.1 TrueHD audio tracks at that point. So I'm worried that even currently it's not downmixing correctly.

I recognize that this will likely result in some strong (negative) opinions, but I'm going to ask anyways:

We currently have a 5.1 setup for our den, which is our primary play space for our 5 kids (plus foster kids that join us for short and long-term placements). They knock over our speakers and play with the subwoofer dials often, no matter what we do or say to dissuade them. I also am in the process of building a climbing wall on the TV wall. I mostly just want the room to be a great place for kids to run amok!

I want to replace the TV and floor speakers/subwoofer with something that the kids can't mess with. I'm thinking a projector and in-wall or in-ceiling speakers. People rail against in-wall/ceiling subs, and the ones that are higher rated are like $1500+ (above our budget). Was thinking of running a 5.0 setup.

Thoughts? Suggestions I haven't heard about to protect my system from children?

So im running a AVR-S660H and a pair of Kef Q150s as my main speaker, for my sub and rear surrounds i'm using an pair of old Energy speakers I had. They are not the best but do the job.

Recently I have re-arranged my apartment, and the ideal placement for my sub happens to be across the room from my amp.

Due to this, I would rather use the speaker wire line level input on my subwoofer (subwoofer is active powered), because its easier for me to run a long bit of speaker wire around the room then it is to run RCAs.

I purchased some small RCA -> Speaker Wire convertors, and tried to plug them into my sub preouts. Problem is the volume is almost non existent when compared to using the RCAs.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I ditch trying to make this work and just buy some really long RCAs to run along the perimeter of my room?

I’ve read through the 101 guide for home surround sound but there are so many recommendations, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed. Here’s what I’m looking for…

• 5.1 that could be upgraded to 7.1 or even 7.1.4 someday
• front speakers that could go on the floor and possibly be angled up or in the ceiling angled at 30 degrees down - with my setup there’s no room on either side of the screen for towers or in wall.
• for the left and rights, I could potentially put those in the wall
• I’d kind of prefer white colored speakers because I think they would look better in this particular room
• my budget is $1k-$3k and I don’t have an AVR so that would need to be part of it
• I’m not going to be too snooty about the audio quality, I don’t need top of the line but also don’t want something cheap that will need to be replaced soon.

Hopefully someone can help me, thanks in advance!

Hello theater people!

First post here please don't grill me, I am at the very beginning of a most probably long lasting thinking process. And I'm a male, usually the wife helps me with these things (thinking) but in this particular situation it's too technical so she passed and told me she trusts me. Loving this fact by the way.

However. We have a white walled living room with a bay window. direct sun hits the projection area only in summer, I mention that only for possible heat-reasons with a screen that would be positioned there.

So we have that 10 year old Epson Beamer that was back then somewhere in the medium-priced range. You can't use it with any ambient light, not to speak of using it at daylight. So movies are being watched exclusively in the night hours without ambient light. Anyway how I personally would do it but there's kids and stuff. I am looking to upgrade. Ideally to a setup in which it is possible to watch even during daylight with closed curtains, focus is clearly on a good image in a dark room though, because Elsa doesn't care if Frozen has deep blacks or not and neither do the kids.

I ain't got no money for everything all at once and whenever I get into something I soon realize that only the best will be just enough - more or less, I also tend to exaggerate. At the moment we are projecting at the plain white wall with the said 10 year old Beamer. The image is 110" at a viewing distance of 10ft.

When I first though "A screen would be nice" I thought I'd through like 300 bucks at it and that'll be it. Then I got into screens and now I am looking at the elite screens cinegrey 4d which comes out at around 2500usd in the configuration I need. That is far more than I expected a screen to be but I guess there's a reason for it.

So I gotta decide whether I continue using the old 1080p beamer and get a good screen first or if I replace the beamer with an Epson TW9400 or even save up for the QB1000.

My thoughts:

- Screen might improve the image quality a lot but I've never seen a side-by-side comparison with my surroundings except in videos and therefore am not sure if it improves the image quality by 2500usd.

- A new beamer gives me not only 4k but also the manufacturers promise of richer blacks and higher nits. How that would play out in a white room I don't dare to guess.

- The QB1000 has a hefty price tag and I wonder if I can ever play out it's advantages in a non-dedicated living room without painting it black - even if I get a screen later on.

I'd love to hear your opinions. One last thing: I work in the movie industry in camera department so I surely know how to appreciate a good image and I can tell the difference, but I am absolutely not experienced in matters of how to technically achieve such pictures through projections, that's why I'm asking you: Screen or Beamer?

I know it's reddit but I'd really appreciate if I wouldn't get roasted á la "you can't have everything, get a TV if you wanna watch during daylight".

So I very excitedly bought this receiver 2nd hand a couple days ago, and for the last few days I’ve been watching movies on Netflix and Disney+ via my Apple TV 4K. All has been well until today when I tried to watch YouTube and listen to Tidal Music via the ATV 4K. For some reason, it doesn’t output any audio from YouTube, Tidal or Spotify but most of the movie streaming apps seem to work fine. I was on the phone with Denon and even they’re stumped after exhausting all troubleshooting steps. Supposedly, the avr is stuck in PCM, or just can’t handle the signals coming in. Funny enough, on YouTube almost nothing works but when I watch “surround sound 7.1 test” videos then I get audio. So I guess it’s not recognizing stereo signal from Apple TV.

Anybody have a similar issue or have any idea wtf could be going on?

Would Klipsch Reference R-40M pair well with a Klipsch Reference R-50C center channel?

I have some space limitations. Prevented me from going bigger.

Hi, folks

In the past, before the widespread advent of voice control, I was quite versed in unifying remote control, however I am now relegated to newb status once again. I am simply at a loss for what I need, if it's even available to be able to use voice control with both Verizon FiOS and Fire TV.

Thus far, the closest I think I have become to finding this functionality is the Sofabaton X1S or the Harmony Elite, where the latter I'm gathering has been discontinued, aside from the fact that I'm not willing to spend that much on a remote controller.

Can you all point me in the right direction? The Sofabaton seems to fit the bill, however I am not clear on how the voice support works, and there clearly is not a push-activated button on the remote, at least that I can tell.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions or insight.

I'm looking for a bit of help in laying out the room that doubles as a living room and play space for our young kids. Things fit well in a previous house, but aren't fitting great in this one. I'd like to get to 7.1.4, but will probably be at 5.1.0 for a while as I already have equipment for that. People always say there's a multi-use acceptable way to get the couch off of the wall but I'm not seeing it.

Important room notes: The screen is normally up on the ceiling, only down when watching shows/movies. Blocking the main entrance to the house with a couch is not wife approved, it's also the main fire egress route. Blocking path to the room from the front door has low WAF, but is not totally impossible. The bookshelf is on a cabinet, so it doesn't block the screen. Some chance of moving it elsewhere in the house. The chair is short and below/behind the screen. It can be moved, but needs to stay in the room because it's my wife's favorite sitting place. The couches have high WAF and were expensive enough that I'm not replacing them with something smaller, they can move, but must also stay in the room. Not the best viewing due to extra light, but I occasionally love laying on the floor in front of the fireplace while burning wood and watching a movie. The coffee table is negotiable, but I'd probably need to replace it with something vs. just get rid of it. The large opening top left of the image is the opening to the dining room. There is a large window behind the couch, but it has blackout curtains as does the dining room window.

Current AV equipment:

Ceiling mounted 120" screen. LS12000 ceiling mounted over the couch on the left of the image. KEF R3 Meta fronts. KEF R2 Meta center (moved into place under screen when viewing). Some cheap old KLH rear surrounds, replacement TBD. HSU VTF-2 Mk4, placement TBD. Denon AVR3312. Plan to upgrade this to an X3800H once I get ceiling speakers installed, but probably +1 year on that as I'll do it when I rewire the house later this year. This, the Bluray player, and cd player need permanent home. A server rack style enclosure has the WAF stamp of rejection. There are a few other small end tables not shown, but they aren't really needed and can easily be removed.

I have a surge protector that was given to me by my dad so i dont know much about it. The brand is “Panamax” and its label says “Surge Protector 8 DBS.” It is rated as 120 VAC 50/60Hz, 15 Amps. I’m not really knowledgeable on electrical stuff so I’m not really sure what all that means lol but I read online you should subtract the amperage of each device connected to it. I can’t really find the amperage of all my devices so I thought I’d ask if it sounds like the surge protector is able to sufficiently power everything. I have a Denon X3700H (5.1 channels are being used however my subwoofer is plugged into a separate outlet so it’s not effecting the surge protector), a 77 inch LG C4, a PS5, a Panasonic UB820, and an Apple TV 4K all plugged into the surge protector. Is that OK? Or should I buy another surge protector and try to break everything up? Thanks for your help and I hope I was able to make everything make sense since I’m not so sure what I’m talking about lol

I have been using an active HDMI (https://a.co/d/39PxhsW), 75 feet long, between receiver (in a staircase closet away from media room) and projector. It worked fine for about 9 months and then I started seeing video drop off at times and now it completely stopped working - the projector just shows “no hdmi input” and it keeps on blinking. I think HDMI is not able to carry the signal this long anymore.

While pulling the HDMI initially (have a conduit), I had to pull really hard at one point and thought the cable might not work but then it did for 9 months. Not sure if that damage is not showing up.

So my question is

• Is there another recommended way of reliably connecting receiver/projector over a long range? Read about using cat 6 with hdbase at both ends. But not sure how the video quality would be.
• Is fiber active hdmi still fine for ~75 feet distance and I should try another hdmi? Any recommendations (or if I should buy the one I have again - https://a.co/d/39PxhsW)

Appreciate any inputs to get my home theater working again!

Hey everyone! I'm about to pull the trigger on the RSL 10S MKII but before I do I wanted to check with the experts. The subwoofer is going to be paired with klipsch R-51 PM bookshelf speakers that are run through my PC. The use will be split by about 50% gaming, 30% music, and 20% YouTube videos. It's going to be in my semi-finished room on the ground floor of my house. The room is roughly 400sq ft and the floor is concrete, with a few rugs in the spots that I sit. At $450 this sub is at the top of my budget, but I'm wanting to make sure I'm not missing something that may be better for my situation.

New

Old: 48" C3, Polk XT70s and XT30

My 4k and blu-ray collection I've accumulated.

I own a very small house with my girlfriend of 8 years. We are both huge movie buffs, and this is what I put together (posters and all) for our family room. I typically sit about 5.5' from the display (eye to screen). The couch is huge and way too comfortable. I had a 5.1 system years ago, but made the move to 3.1, and I've found that I don't miss the surrounds.

Equipment:

LG 55" C4

Ascend Acoustics 340SE2 center, CBM-170SEx2 (L/R)

10e Speedwoofer

Panasonic UB9000 4k player

A pretty dank server rack that I used to consolidate my components into a more compact space. Spent way too much money on this.

Yamaha V-RX385 5.1 AVR

Whenever i connect a source to the avr it says dolby atmos. I got a new tv and got it with arc channel but always on this tv it reads "atmos/surround" and on the previous option it reads dd+.. what does that atmos/surround even mean and why it doesnt display dolby atmos like it should be?

Im guessing it sends a DD+ signal and not even atmos.. i dont worry about true hd as i dont think my current setup with arc can handle it. I just want atmos for now.

Tv is lg c4 65" and i called LG who they said my settings are correct..

Hi there.

I recently purchased a new Samsung Q70D TV and connected it to my Denon X3500H receiver with eARC HDMI.

I am also using my Apple TV which is connected to the AVR and works fine with Dolby 5.1 sound.

The issue is when I wanna use the Samsung TV plus function and my PS5 (PS5 is connected directly to the TV as the AVR don’t support 120hz). It won’t let me play sound through the AVR. It keeps switching back to TV speakers.

And yes. I did enable Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) and set eARC to auto and Pass-Through on the TV.

Anyone who can help with that?

My house was originally built in 1903, with an addition added in 2003 or so. The living room is part of the addition. We wanted to add in-wall speakers, but the wall they would go into is not your standard framed-out wall, it's the old front of the house. So it goes sheetrock, ~3-6" empty space, then old front of house. From what I can tell with a boroscope and some holes I made along the wall, the old front is made up of brick and concrete. There may also be some rock in there. But it is definitely not a solid plane of sheetrock, and it also varies in depth (which I'm aware will affect how deep a speaker I could get)

It is also not even, some spots are 3" distance sheetrock to old front, while others are 6" sheetrock to old front.

How bad would that be to have all that sitting behind the speakers? Should we abandon the in-walls altogether? Only look for ones with built-in back boxes?

Any help/tips/advice is appreciated, thank you!

Hi all Does anyone currently have a TV behind their projector screen for times that a TV would be preferred over the full theater experience? I am considering a UST projector with a motorized screen in a 13x19 room.

Thank you!

It has been a number of years and I know technology has changed significantly…. Can I buy a smart TV that wirelessly connects to a receiver and into say Sonos speakers or similar….

or what would you recommend for me to do to basically have a TV hanging on the wall with a couple/ few wireless speakers in a tv room

I recently got an older receiver with an outdated HDMI version (and broken video switcher) and want to use it with a newer tv. I got an HDMI splitter, and I'm able to get the tv working at full resolution, but the audio is limited to 2 channels. Ive tried changing the tv's audio settings and switching the position of the tv and receiver but so far nothing has worked. Any ideas on how to get multichannel audio to the receiver in this setup? ARC is not an option and the tv has no optical out. Would an audio extractor work or would I still be limited to 2 channels