CarAV Discord

Hi there,

I'm planning to upgrade the standard speakers in my little hatchback with a relatively low budget. I've already replaced the standard stereo for a Blaupunkt Nurnberg/Valencia 200 DAB BT. There are a pair of 6.5" front speakers and tweeters I want to replace with the Pioneer TS-G170C, but I also want to add a single subwoofer in the boot. Can I use the stereo to power the front speakers, and then a monoblock amplifier to power the subwoofer? I'm looking at using the Juice JA1201D to power a single Pioneer TS-A250D4 in a DIY enclosure. Am I on the right tracks? The amplifier can push 220W RMS @ 4 Ohms but the subwoofer can handle 400W RMS, pressumably under-powering the subwoofer but not so low that it is completely wasted? Should I be looking at a smaller subwoofer or a higher powered amplifier, or is what I've chosen ample?

I may be completely misunderstood, so please correct me!

Thanks

Hi guys, I'm currently converting a camper van and trying to work out my speaker setup.

I've got a big Bluetooth speaker (tribit stormbox blast) that I'm considering putting in the back, but I'd like the stock car audio to be enhanced by whatever I put in. So is it possible / a good idea to somehow add the tribit speaker to my cars audio output, to add some bass and surround sound when driving? It has an aux input, and would be externally powered.

Thanks!

Hi so I got an interesting one here.

I recently just installed a Sony XAV-AX7000 into my 2017 WRX w/o Harmon Kardon (6.2in clarion head unit). I linked it all together with a maestro RR, the HRN-HRR-SU2 and Son1 harness from Maestro. The RR is flashed properly and everything works, except this very interesting behavior.

Normally, the dash dimmer is controlled by the headlight, when headlight is on, it dims, etc. Now, it won't dim if apple carplay is not connected... The AX7000 will dim automatically when the headlight comes on, but the dash will stay full brightness, the dimmer switch is adjusted properly and as soon as carplay connects, the dash dims as it's supposed to.

Is this an expected behavior? I doubt it is but I have no idea why this is happening or how to fix this. I had no idea the dash dimmer would be in any way controlled by the headunit in this car.

What’s the recommended subwoofers for metal and punk for bass?

Mids and highs are dealt with.

Worried about the thumping double bass drums being reproduced

I wanted to get this one but I am all in it for the sound which is the beeping sound

When I make or take cellphone calls (connected via bluetooth to stereo) in my car using my Android Auto Pioneer DMH-Z6350BT stereo (and car speakers & mic), people complain my voice is distorted/echoing.

Is there anything I can do to reduce/eliminate my echo?

My Android phone is an Oppo Find X5 Lite.

My stereo has the latest firmware update.

I’ll be running 4 8in subwoofers

So, the shop that does my audio equipment lost the top portion. I had them remove it before taking my car to the dealer for electrical problems I was having. I want to reinstall the system, but I’m missing that metal cover piece. Is it important? Do I need it? Where can I find a replacement? Even if it's not required, I'd really prefer to have one.

Do I need to get 3.5 midrange if I’m already upgraded my car audio to this and I’m running 2 12s. And if so what do yall recommend

Hello, so i have a 96 camaro v6 3.8 bose sound system, and I installed a Sony stereo that I got for Christmas (dsx-a415bt) with a new harness. It worked well for a day, but after my grocery trip it didn't turn back on, and I couldn't get it to, I have replaced all my fuses connected to the stereo btw

I have a home setup and after disconnecting the battery on my radio and putting back on it is making a sort of static sound almost like a ground loop very subtle but very annoying and since I’ve bought another radio and it’s still making the sound I’m thinking It could be the battery but idk what would cause it to do that grounds good everything’s good I just disconnected the battery put it back on now there’s static. Any help would be greatly appreciated also I have no amp no sub hooked up jus a radio and speakers to a 12 volt battery.

Hi all! I have a 2020 Lexus ES350.

I have a sound system currently - 1500w. Adding two more 4 channels amps for a total of ~2300w.

I charge at around 14.1v.Right now I drop to about the 13s with moderate listening. This can go down to 12s during heavy listening.

I purchased a 300a alternator. I was given the option on a voltage regulator bypass at 14.8v. Manufacturer said likely the only downside would be a 'charging system' engine light.

Does anyone have any insight? Should I continue letting the computer regulate the voltage? Or should I opt in for the bypass at 14.8v.

Of note - plan on adding a 500f super capacitor as I've been told this would help mitigate voltage drop. I had a second AGM battery for the trunk, but I want to avoid adding another 66lbs as my current system adds plenty of weight already.

ik not alot of people have had to bypass it or deal with it or even know about it lmao but it seems like a very big roadblick for someone whos trying to put a 2000 watt amp in the car so for anyone that knows really anything abt it do you think if i get a good enough alt that it wont matter? or if i just run the ac on the lowest setting all the time bc on some forum i saw the requirments for the system to go into low output mode the ac needs to be off, soooo maybe? but the ehole point is its detecting gow much load there is on the 50a ignition my sending a 5v reference signal and turns it on high output mode if the v drops below like 3 so idk how i would know how much power to continuously draw to keep it in ho mode. i saw someone on a forum do all this fancy bypass shit and ive seen other ppl jyst go in the fuse box, find thr eld plug and unplug it and have showed voltages that shows that it stays consistant 14+, this is a real bummer to have and no one else have because its so hard to find a solution lmao

Sorry for any mistakes in formatting, I’m typing this on mobile and I also have to apologize for my lack of knowledge, I know next to nothing about Car AV.

A year ago, I purchased a used Tundra. The truck Has been amazing and I have had no issues mechanically.

The previous owner had an amp (which I did not know was installed until later) and had an older Ken wood head unit installed in the vehicle. Two weeks ago, I decided to purchase a head unit that came packed with features that the current one did not have.

When I began pulling the current head unit out, I noticed a lot of splicing that had been done from a Maestro RR to the current head unit. Looking a bit further some shoddy splicing work had been done to what I assumed was the back up camera as well.

I had taken everything to an audio shop and the tech said he can have the new head unit installed in a couple of hours. When I went to pick up my truck, the head unit had been installed successfully and worked like a charm, I did notice that the sound was off.

There seemed to be a high pitched mechanical whine and when I turned the volume up the speakers sounded as if they were going to blow and the song would constantly skip if the volume was turned up too high. I was unable to address this issue due to having to go back to work.

I called the audio shop back when I had some time and the tech informed me that the whining could be a bad RCA cable going to the amp, he was unsure about the volume issues though.

Does anyone have any insight on what both issues could be? The tech is going to look at it again but they don’t open until mid week. Could I possibly forsake the amp and just go headunit to speakers?

Looking for mid-bass speakers for 90-500 Hz application

I was recommended by a local store the Deaf Bonce Machete LW-65A4

However, the CDT audio HD-E6 seems to be better, and currently at the same price.

The Machete LW-65A4 have paper cone. The HD-E6 have carbon fiber cone.

The Machete have 89 db sensitivity, the HD-E6 have 91.9 db sensitivity.

Probably I should go with the CDT audio HD-E6.

Or are there better brands with better mid-bass?

https://deafbonce.com/speakers/machete-lw-65a4

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/hde6.php

Hello everyone, I am having very weak bass from my subwoofer. I will provide as many details as possible about the installation.

I have just finished installing a Marriola MRA-1200 5CH AMP and sub into a 2010 Hyundai i30 with factory amp for the speakers.

The sub is connected to channel 5 on the amp, with a Y splitter for the RCA cables going into the subwoofer port on the aftermarket android headunit.

The remote wire is connected to the original harness with the factory amp remote wire twisted together. The subwoofer's amp remote wire has a switch inbetween for turning it on and off.

After installing, the amp powers on and the sub produces bass, however, very very little bass.

All the wiring is brand new, other than the ones from the subwoofer to the amp. I am using 10ga cable for the power which says it rated for 1500w.

The parts are confirmed working as I pulled them from my other car and they we're all functioning fine.

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement knob for a Hifonics BXiPRO1.0?

got this nakamichi headunit for free and it’s an absolute peice of shit. used it for about a month and some part of it smoked up into flames. do not get nakamichi

Sub installation q50

I recently had subs installed into my q50, and right away I noticed they were not hitting as hard as I thought they would. (For reference my buddy had a g37 like 7 years ago with dual 12” subs just installed at a local Best Buy for somewhere around $1200-1400 total, I believe, and his subs shook the car and you felt it in your body, even when the bass knob was only turned up 1/2 way it was still pretty strong). Anyway, I originally ordered everything from crutchfield and got a custom box off eBay, everything with 4+ stars out of 5. I then had a local shop install it for 350-400 or so, they have 4.9/5 starts on both yelp and goole too. At that point my build was around 1400 including installation. The next day they call me to come pick up the car. I eventually get to the shop and test the subs, I am very unimpressed at that point. I noticed a small difference but nothing major especially for 2 12” subs. I had to turn the bass knob up to 100% to feel a slight vibration in the door when I was resting my leg on it. Also when looking at the speakers they did not seem to be moving much, even when on max speaker volume and bass knob. So I asked them why and they say my box isn’t big enough for the speakers I have, if I want the kind of output my buddy had. So I buy a new box and have them rework it, I also end up buying a new amp from them too, and send the old one back to CF. After they installed the new gear it was noticeably better but still nothing compared to what my buddy had years ago. Am I expecting too much out of my set up? Is something off with the installation? I’m just not too sure why I’m not getting a ton of output like my buddy did. I also took a picture of the current amp tune the shop did, maybe that is off? If anyone has any suggestions please let me know, here is my speaker and amp below.

Speakers: 2X - Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 Punch P2

Amp: Sony XM-1ES

Box: This is the box it is in TL-12DV - Coated Tuff Coat Sprayliner-12” Dual Slammer Vented Divided

Enclosure Dimensions Sub cut out: 11.12”, mounting depth: 15”, Height: 13.75”, Width: 32”, Depth: 17”

How would I go about getting a car audio system setup in my home, (speakers, amplifier, subwoofer ) how would I get it hooked up to a tv but also be able to play music from my phone on it (how would I power the subwoofer)?

Hey all, i have a 2013 VW Touareg and i replaced all 10 of the factory speakers (high, mid, low in each front door, high and low in rears) with Focal units and i would like to add a sub in the trunk and a DSP amp to tune the whole system. The problem is that the output signal from the head unit is a M.O.S.T. Bus system that carries all the signals to the factory amp. What i would like to know is if i could use the factory amp output wires as inputs to an LOC and then from there run to a DSP amp? If anybody has any hardware recommendations i would welcome those too! Thanks!

Hey y'all. I'm installing some upgrades in my '95 Ranger XLT and I may have bought myself into a corner as far as my signal path. Hoping y'all can help me out here. I have done lots of car audio installs in the past but I am definitely not an expert.

My question pertains to the following products:

• Pioneer MVH-S322BT Receiver

• Alpine S-A32F 4-channel Amplifier

• Infinity REF-551A Mono Amplifier

I am comfortable installing and powering everything, as well as running the speaker wires. However, as I'm reading through the manuals for these three units, I'm realizing I may not have planned the signal path carefully enough.

The radio has two pairs of stereo outputs, one labeled "front" and the other labelled "rear/sub," and the Alpine amp has 4 speaker inputs. So that covers me as far as getting signal to the speaker amp. However, I've left myself with no clear way to get signal to the sub. I wrongly assumed either the Alpine amp or the Pioneer radio would have a mono bass signal output in addition to the 4 speaker outputs and it neither of them does. Am I now stuck running a shitty hi-lo converter from one of the rear speakers to the sub? Last time I had to use one of those it was a nightmare; I went through two different units from two different manufacturers before finding one that wasn't garbage, and even then the internet told me even the best hi-lo converters suck compared to a proper RCA out. Is that still the case, or is there a better converter available now? Is there some other solution I'm missing?

Also, as far as Power/Ground/Remote for the two amps... I plan on running one fused power wire from my battery back to the amp install location, and using a distribution block to split power to the two amps. Then I will ground them at a common chassis ground in the install area. Can I daisy-chain the remote signal wire from one amp to the other, or do I need to connect two remote leads from the Pioneer radio's harness? Or is that functionally the same thing, and I'm dumb?

Thanks in advance, and sorry if I left out any necessary info.

I have focal IS BMW 100L and focal IC BMW 100 speakers, and I'm wondering if I need to set any crossovers/filters to make sure lower frequencies don't destroy them.

Also I've been wondering about good reference curves for my car if anyone has recs

Thanks!

I'm stuck. Please help. Setup with GM harness, all works. Programmed with Weblink, disabled all chirps for Lock and Unlock and it still chirking Siren when Lock. Silent when unlock. And also I had to disconnect Horn wire, because it doesn't matter what I program it always chirk on Lock. I tried re-flash - no luck.

Any ideas?

Mine Chevy Express actually not a Express, it's Cutaway truck.

Looking for alternatives for the above as it would be nifty to have one cable from the phone to the adapter to charge while the adapter handles the audio.

Hello everyone,

I am currently wiring a stereo and back up camera and am looking at options to ground my negative on the frame of my car. I am wondering if someone can shine some light and steer me in the correct direction.

When using a ring terminal or a fork crimp, should I be using the 22-16AWG? It seems to be the best fit for my scenario. What’s the advantages of a ring vs a fork? Would it best to not unscrew an existing ground point and simply loosen it and attach the fork crimp and retighten?

Thank you!