CarAV Discord

I have a Pioneer DMH-1500NEX installed in my car and want to upgrade to the DMH-W3000NEX. Can I use my previous harness and cables, and just plug it into the the new head unit?

I have plans of doing a simple sub and amp set up in my car. I wanted to do a Deaf Bonce Apocalypse DB-SA275 subwoofer, but I’m having trouble choosing a amp to go with it. Any recommendations? I’m looking for something to play in the 1500-1750 watt range. My budget is $350 for the amp.

New to car audio, I want to upgrade my 20 SIERRA SLE. Not looking to build a monster thumping system. SQ is definitely the goal. Was looking at something like Focal Performance 165AS and a small sub like an 8 or 10. Know I’ll need something like a LC7i but to get from there to the speakers is a bit overwhelming, like the simplicity of a KEY200.4 plus KEY500.1 for getting into dsp but not sure I’ll like no eq/control over it. Any recommendations?

Hi all,

I'm looking for a Single DIN Android Auto Ready Headunit that doesn't require an AMP. Not looking for one with a screen that sticks stupidly far out (UNLESS it can be horizontally adjusted), just looking for something that's mostly flush with the dash. Here's what I'm working with space wise (Alpine UTE-52BT for reference)

https://preview.redd.it/hhumwolhmlyd1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=33c89d2d01d52d01482adcc26c0b8378924161e4

Im planning on installing a new stereo system in my 04 Mercury Marauder. I plan on replacing all four factory speakers (two 6x8s in front door, two 6x8s in rear deck), the stereo head unit, and then adding two 12” subs in the trunk. I want to have enough power to not only power the subs but also give the 6x8s enough power to reach their full potential. I know Ill need a 2nd amp for the doors/deck speakers but Im wondering what amp I should get for my head unit and also what amp I should get for my subwoofers. Im also wondering if I should put a 2nd battery/better alternator in the vehicle when all is said and done or if a capacitor would be enough to help with the load. Last thing would be the box. Not sure if I should go sealed or ported. Im leaning more towards quality, rather than loudness. I haven’t ordered anything yet so Im open to suggestions. Im not on a budget exactly but Im also not looking to spend more on my system than I did on the car lol. I had an Accord when I was younger that I put an Alpine system in and I thought it was a pretty happy medium as far as price and quality go. Thats why Ive gone with the set up that I have. Any help and feedback is greatly appreciated.

I plan on using the Alpine UTE-73BT stereo, four Alpine S2-S68 speakers, and two Alpine R2-W12D4 subwoofers.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500UTE73BT/Alpine-UTE-73BT.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500S2S68/Alpine-S2-S68.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500R2W12D4/Alpine-R2-W12D4.html

Hello Reddit,

So I am looking at maybe trying to fix my girlfriends car radio for a Christmas gift, but I don't really know what information I would need, to find out the exact replacement part(s) that I would need.

I don't entirely know what the issue is, she just claims it doesn't work. So I guess does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to figure out 1. what the issue is and 2. how to know what to purchase.

This is slightly more difficult because I am trying to be discreet lol but lay it on and I will figure out how to go about doing it.

Thank you in advance!!

I drive 2011 ford fusion and my radio fuse under the dash keeps faulting out. They never look blown but i can swap out the fuse and it works fine. Ive checked all the wiring behind the head unit and its all good. It happens once every 3-6 months. Any known reasons for this?

I need an aux input to play music from my phone in my old 2001 Toyota Corolla. It only plays CDs and tapes. The radio system might be useful, but the CD and tape head units are not, so it would be more convenient to remove the tape head unit. I've heard that cassette-to-aux adapters have poor audio quality, so I want to find a good option that maintains decent sound quality. If I replace the radio head unit, I'll still have the separate, unused tape head unit, so it makes more sense to just replace the tape head unit instead.

What choices do I have on the market?

I was thinking of putting 2 12 black diamond DIA-T12s in would that work?

I have a 4 channel amp that I'd like to put all 4 door speakers and two 12's on. What would be my best route to wire it all up? The 4 door speakers on two channels and one sub each on the two remaining channels?

I got two different sub/amp enclosures. Powered acoustic 8" sub amp and a jenson 10" sub amp. I only have the powered acoustiks because I wanted to return it after reading some bad reviews but I lost the receipt so I still have it. Would it be worth setting up along with the other enclosure I already have set up? And could I do a separate ground for each sub/amp combo to put one under the seat? I already have the jensen installed in my trunk

Hello there Friends i got some jbl speakers for my astra h gtc and since i got a Baby with his stroller i wanted to install a subwoofer for my spare tire hole as you know every car has a trunk cover and This subwoofer case has a hole in will it get damaged if i use it with my Trunk Cover or does it Need to breath sorry For bad english and im pretty noob at such Things thank you all for understanding

Just wired in a second amp so I can get some speakers. 70rms 4 channel for speakers and 1500 monoblock for my subs aswell as a diy active cooling fan for my skar since it gets toasty in the Florida sun

The wiring harness for a nakamichi na6605 has a wire labeled back car control wire. What does this get wired to? Does this get wired into the reverse light wire for backup camera? I'm trying to wire up a backup camera so it turns on when I put it in reverse.

Am I even able to wire 4 coax speakers to this or am i completely lost. If I can, how?

I’m new to car audio, only ever dealt with home setups.

I currently have a cheap head unit from AliExpress because it was specific for my car and super easy to install plus it was cheap but am currently looking at getting the alpine ILX-w650 head unit along with the kta-450 amp that alpine has I currently have an 1100w boss riot amp and two kicker comp 12s in a ported box I have alpine s2-s65 speakers in all four doors along with the original four tweeters my car is a 2012 Volkswagen Golf my current plan is to get the head unit then the amp then better speakers then a better sub amp I’m just asking for guidance and confirmation this is a good route if it is

I'm trying to find a budget friendly yet good quality 5 channel amp for my truck. I don't have room for two separate amps and I only need 500w RMS @ 2 ohms for the subs anyways, which is what this amp puts out.

My question is, does anyone have any opinions on this brand or even better, this specific amp? Just from some quick Googling, it looks like DB is a solid brand. This just seems kind of cheap compared to 5 channels from other brands that are comparable.

What I really want to know is, if you were looking for a 5ch amp, would YOU run this?

Link to amp:
https://alphardaudio.us/collections/machete-mfa-compact/products/machete-mfa-5-1000-5-channel-amplifier

My goal is to prevent distortion/clipping in my speakers, but since the gain setting on my amp and the DSP's EQs both affect the speakers' loudness (thus affecting clipping/distortion), which should be changed first?

I'm fine with getting something like the "SMD Distortion Detector DD-1" if that's optimal.

I haven't bought anything yet, so if the answer is equipment-specific, please tell me.

Hi all, bought a new CT Stratos sub 12" DVC 2ohm. Planning on eventually running it at 1ohm in a ported box tuned to 32HZ with about 2CF of airspace net. To break it in first I was thinking to run it at 2ohm with around 700 or less watts then afterwards will run it at the RMS of 1250 1 ohm. My question is, for break in, will it be better off to use a 1 ft3 sealed box which is the recommended sealed size or to use a ported 1.75 ft (minimum recommended)? Searching has revealed one answer on a blog, dubious source IMO. What do you pros recommend? I have the 2 aforementioned boxes already, and plan on a new one for the final home for Stratos, either an Atrend or a Harmony Audio which both have great reviews for build quality. I suck at working with wood, and a boxmaker close to me isn't willing to make what I want, seems to have a few designs and just paint or decorate them, so a pre-fab is my choice as looks don't matter to me, it's going to sit in my trunk so IDC if it's carpet or stained glass really. Pretty sub basket, but chrome doesn't affect bass. Any help is appreciated as always, so thanks!

I previously had a Boss BVCP9700A for about a year that crapped out on me. I'm looking for a replacement from a more reputable brand that meets some criteria. I was looking at units such as the Sony XAV-AX7000 that have built in amps. Problem is its a really expensive unit and I may not use all the other features..

In my 2010 Subaru Forester, I have Polk DB652 Coaxials as front door speakers, Kicker 46CSC674 Coaxials in the rear door, along with factory tweeters as they were.

I really don't feel like upgrading all the wiring, paying for amps, and further modification as all my speakers are door speakers. That being said, are there any head units from Pioneer, Alpine, Sony or similarly reputable brands other than the aforementioned Sony unit that have a built in amplifier that can provide more than 20W RMS (ideally closer to 50W rms)?

First checked for clipping from head unit via speaker wires that go in to the amp and it didn’t show clipping at all which was pretty surprising. It’s a quite older jvc kdr330. I know it’s possible some headunits just don’t clip at all.

Then checked for clipping from amp. Disconnected speaker wire going to sub and connected scope to - and + and produced these lines. Used 40hz test tone. Searching this sub I couldn’t find an answer to the squiggly lines.

I have a pioneer head unit and I was wondering if there was an app or something that could access the car data

Bought a new car recently but speakers aren’t great and at higher volumes kind sound like they are broken (left woofer and one of the tweeters). I’m looking for something to replace them with and I don’t want to spend to much money. €100-150 range, preferably tweeter and speaker separately which is what I’m currently also using. Radio im using is stock but will upgrade to Sony AX1005DB which has 4x55w.

My brother bought an old vw truck that has a nice sound system in it. When he got it none of it worked. We're now at the point where everything powers up. 2 12 inch subs in the trunk powered by a 2400w amp. All the speakers and tweeters in the doors are all good, and ran to a dead stereo amp. I had an old mono amp sitting around to see if it at least had power, which it did. Ohmed out all speakers, all good. No sound at all coming from anything but the subwoofers. Is it possible that the crossovers are dead in both doors? Also, can you use a mono amp for speakers as long as you bridge both sides? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2020 Porsche Macan S with the base SPP system. The factory amp is 150w. 

I've put on a lot of CLD crudely and have installed these speakers:

Front: 

• AudioFrog GB15 (2.6k high pass, 15uf)
• Focal 4” K2 ES100 KE 
• Focal 6.5” ES165KX3

Rear doors:

• Focal TNB tweeter (4.8k high pass, 8.2uf)
• Focal 6.5" ISN165 (Focal Kifi 1069 low pass)

This configuration sounds Okay but perhaps not great. Facts I've gathered about the vehicle configuration:

• The stock amp send a full range signal to the front tweeters and midrange 4" speaker. 
• It sends mid bass and bass signals to the 6.5" front door woofer. 
• The rear doors get a reduced power signal but still full range I believe and the tweeter and woofer are wired in parallel with a capacitor on the tweeter
• Main battery is located in the rear below the spare tire
• Factory amp and control unit are located above the glovebox
• Want to avoid buying the $1k MOST150 converter

After installation, the sound is certainly extremely clear (perhaps too clear and needs -4 treble) and I think it can be much improved. So I have ordered these items:

• Helix V Eight DSP Mk2
• JBL Fuse 2 piece subwoofer

Questions:

1. I assume for my install, if I don't want to run new wire to each speaker, I have to cut the individual wires off the factory harness to each speaker and connect it to the Helix? If I were to use high level inputs from the factory amp, I would also just rewire the cut wires into the high level inputs. Is this all correct?
2. Where should I locate the amp? I don't believe I have any room under the front seats because I have 18 way power seats. I guess then I should locate the amp in the spare tire area near the battery? I guess then I would have to run wires from the factory amp in the glove box area all the way to the amp in the trunk then wires from the amp all the way back to the front? Is that okay?
3. Can I simplify anything by just getting the Bluetooth module for the amp or connecting a bluetooth adapter to the optical input of the amp? I use CarPlay a lot but I believe my iPhone 15PM can use CarPlay while routing audio through Bluetooth.
4. Any other tips or suggestions or recommendations on how to install this?

https://preview.redd.it/xcxxqy57rjyd1.png?width=3580&format=png&auto=webp&s=2953d84f7bf5facbfe9287d3ff9702268cb1cee2

https://preview.redd.it/wdxl6bv7rjyd1.png?width=2858&format=png&auto=webp&s=c1c59b25daae8ccd7fd6ad71fd3ab6f71c77c095