I have a metal, double front door, one side stays closed with upper and lower bolts, and contains the strike plate. The other door has the cylinder/bolt/faceplate. All hardware is factory built/aligned into the door and is not adjustable as far as I can see.

To latch the deadbolt we have to press the closing door to compress the weatherstripping or else the bolt hits the strike plate and won't lock.

I want to add a smart lock (like an August), however it won't be able to lock the bolt unless someone is present to press door in, defeating a primary purpose for me.

If I could slightly taper the inside edge of the bolt I think it would work to allow the bolt to close via the force of the smart lock.

My concern is that the bolt may be hardened to the point where a regular diy grinder would not be effective, or that I'm not considering other factors.

Any advice/concerns regarding my dilemma?

I have a regular depth door, but the distance between the 2 holes (handle & deadbolt) isn't 5½" center to center.

Is this a different standard or am I screwed and can't find strike plates to reinforce the door?

(It's about 3¾")

This deadbolt is stuck in the locked position. The red sticker with the plastic piece was removed from the cylinder and the lock was turned with the key. Anyway to get this taken back apart without drilling it out? Thanks

Currently, I have to forcefully turn the key to the right and pull, which is challenging when I'm carrying a bag or holding a baby. Would changing the lock resolve this issue, or are there other solutions I should consider?

Our church was a couple of doors with a Jackson 1285 panic bar. The vertical rods rattle loudly on closing. What would be the best approach to getting the rattle to stop? I've looked at the installation guide and am fairly confident I can work on it. I would like to have a plan before tearing into it.

Thanks in advance.

Have a Jeld-Wen sliding porch door. The locking lever broke off. Took the handle mechanism off and was able to use a flat head screwdriver to put into the lock mechanism to turn and lock/unlock it while we waited for the replacement handle and lock lever to arrive. The screwdriver method worked for a couple days but no longer does. I am still able to turn the locking mechanism but it does not unlock the door and it is stuck locked. The whole with the arrow to it is where I used the screwdriver. The whole above it, I can see a spring, but doesn’t seem to move when I turn the screwdriver. The other top and bottom holes are for mounting the handle. Is this something I am able to fix? Or at least a way for me to get the door unlocked without breaking the door? Or will this require an actual locksmith? Thanks for time and help!

Going through this sub I've always been cautioned to stay away from nissan rogues, cause they can mess your whole day, I was pretty happy knowing where I'm from these models aren't sold over here, Until I learnt recently that these cars are called Nissan X-trails over here Why do car manufacturers do this🥲

hi all, i lost my apartment keys and am looking to get my roommate’s pair duplicated instead of having to pay the (hefty) landlord fee to get them replaced. unfortunately, one of them seems to be a restricted medeco key that says do not duplicate. from what i’ve read, sometimes this doesn’t mean anything and it’s just a matter of finding a locksmith that will do it for you, othertimes the key cannot be cut by just anyone. photo attached of the key — is this truly a restricted key and i won’t be able to get it duplicated at a kiosk or locksmith for cheap? if so, any advice/suggestions for finding a locksmith (in the los angeles area) that can/ will duplicate this key for me? am quite tight on money right now so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! thank you

Ive had my sc-20 lishi for about a year and I’ve seen online that someone made an adapter to put on your lishi to essentially turn your sc-20 to a 5 pin or sc-19, does anyone know where I can find this file? I have recently gotten into 3d printing and would like to mess around and see if I make this. Thank you in advance!

If this is unclear I can comment and re explain.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get this door handle plate off. I’ve tried screwing, prying with a flathead, everything. Can anyone help?

Thank you in advance

I’d say I get about 5 of these a week at the tow yard.

How much would it cost to replace a keycard door lock?

Appreciate pointers, recommendations please. Currently we have traditional key & electric strike. Like to install something that eliminates the need for a key for tenants. A card/FoB reader or something.

Thank you

Hello friends. New here

Recently moved to a new place and wanted to change the locks. I showed the locks to the home depot guy and he saw they were Weiser and suggested I buy this Weiser re-keying kit.

The new place has 2 locks in each door (front and backyard doors). One lock has a keypad + keyhole. The other has a lever + keyhole.

The instructions for the re-keying kit are as follows:

1. Open door all the way and set whatever has the lock to 'locked'

2. Insert the old key in the lock

3. Turn old key 90 degrees

4. Insert the re-keying key that comes with the kit in the little tiny hole next to the keyhole. Push, then pull it out (all while keeping the old key in)

5. Pull out old key (in the same position it was)

6. Insert new key in that same position

7. Turn that key 90 degrees back to the original position. Boom done.

I managed to do this for the 2 keypad locks and one lever. But I messed up while doing the last lever. During that one, the re-keying key wasnt working, i wasnt able to pull out the old key. So I accidentally pressed the re-keying key, pulled out the old key, then the re-keying key, then inserted the new and turned back the lock to its original position. (As opposed to pulling out the re-keying key, then the old key)

This appears to have messed up the lock since neither the new or old keys work in it anymore. Neither of them can turn it 90 degrees.

I checked online. The suggestion is to insert each key and slowly pull it out while trying to turn it 90 degrees until you find a position that allows it and reset the re-keying process. This didnt work with either key.

I called support but they told me ill have to replace the cylinder.

Anyone else have other ideas or has been in a similar situation with these type of 'smart' locks and their rekeying process?

Thank you!

Hey y’all so I have no experience in locksmithing but I wanted a career change so a company offered me 21/hr to start which is a pretty decent pay-cut from what I was making but I hate my current job. Is this normal and if things work out any ideas what I could make after I get experience and trained. What do y’all make if you don’t mind saying? I’m in the Midwest if that makes any difference. TYIA

We have a customer who has 7 new slab doors and wants us to do fresh installs of Timely 8919 privacy bit key style locks is easiest way to describe it. Major does not make a template for our jig. What do you think is the best way to get consistent results across the entire lot of doors?

Also get this one they do not want to use the escutcheons they only want to use the handles. Also they want to remove the privacy knob from its escutcheon and hang it on a chain and just drill the smallest hole possibly for it to fit in, so whatever we do it’s gonna need to be precise with no room for error.

The contractor wants no part of it and honestly I’m on the fence as well because their is zero room for error, I don’t think the knobs screwed on spindle can support themselves without the escutcheon, and the the thumb turn thing is just out there.

https://preview.redd.it/6ilkc63vz3yc1.jpg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8154a7b131571d1af94978b7fc4d881c2271f058

I just installed a replacement lock for the one pictured, but I'm having the same problem with it; it functions fine from inside, but is not operable from outside. When the key is inserted, it just goes around and around. Is the unit broken, or am I missing something in the install? It seems like a really simple unit. I couldn't see any way to adjust the actual chamber which the key inserts into. Any advice would be much appreciated! The old unit is pictured, the replacement is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJ2N42J3/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00

Hi!

Just closed a new house (well new to us) and excited! The house has this style lock, and I love to get your recommendations for a suitable smart lock.

I searched and there’s tons of conflicting info. Ideally I think we need to replace both the deadbolt and the door handle. Do I need to buy a matched pair or can i mix and match as needed? The home also has a bunch of google / nest smart devices so we’re already in the google ecosystem if that helps in any way.

Thanks!

Most of my newer customers find me from Google Search/Maps. Do you think very many customers are using yelp to find Locksmiths? Is it worth it to start trying to get reviews there?

I'm trying to get all of my locks on the same key. I was going to order the a707 padlock, since that comes with the APTC14, but the ones I've found are twice the cost of the A701s, etc. Is it possible to put an APTC14 Cylinder into a lock made for an APTC12? I've been trying to figure this out for way too many hours, at this point and can't find a definitive answer. Many thanks for any help on this