I am looking for a heat pump water heater to cool FL garage. Every plumber around offers Rheem/State HP from HomeDepot at ~100% markup as substitute. But I don't want to risk noise Rheem HP is infamous about and it has way too many complaints about reliability.

So I was looking to drop-ship ASHPWH-50 and connect it myself. The heater looks better engineered on paper, e.g. it has both magnesium and electric anode rod, which may postpone the mission impossible to unscrew it without breaking it.

Does anybody has real experience with it? I have found only a couple of places online that may ship it which makes me cautious.

Vent line in the way of back-to-back showers I remodeled, total noob.

House was built in 47’. Just purchased. After 3 weeks, plumbing issues have kicked my ass. Main line clog … now after getting the line camera’d… I was told there’s a root ball in the line. What should I do

I live in an apartment building that recently had two toilet clogs that caused flooding in 3 units in a stack of apartments. Both times, it was the 3rd floor unit that first experienced the clog, but when the plumber went to snake their toilet, the plumber said the clog was likely in the 1st floor unit given how far down the snake went before unclogging.

Given this evidence, do you think it's the 3rd floor that's at fault since both times they were the ones that first experienced the clog, or do you think it's the 1st floor since the plumber snaked all the way down to the 1st floor before unclogging? All 3 floors were flooded both times.

We’re getting a nasty rotten egg smell from our kitchen sink plug hole. I’ve cleaned it many times with drain-o/baking soda/corrosive drain cleaner and it hasn’t improved. We live in an old apartment block and we suspect the smell is due to a blockage somewhere outside of our apartment.

Looking at the pipes, is there anything that stands out that could be causing the sewer gas to come out of our plug hole?

Thanks!

We had some major plumbing issues with our toilet and tub not draining or flushing down properly. My landlord called a plumber that he saw an add for online. He comes over to not only spray waste everywhere all over our bathroom, but comes to find out he can not fix it and just wrote up a bill with a “discount” for not being able to fix the issue and left. To our surprise this was our bathroom after he left. The toilet is behind the wall in the picture. Or what would have been as he did not even put the toilet back on following this. There was waste sprayed as high as 5ft all up the walls where the toilet area is.

My dad works in septic so I completely understand things can get messy in plumbing. But too leave all this?? Not even a courtesy spray down or even putting out toilet back on. It took about 2 days of heavy bleaching and cleaning before we could even enter the bathroom again. The original bill of service was 700$ for about 3 hours of snaking. With the “discount” for not being able to fix it, it bring it down to 500$. That yes, we had to pay and not the landlord.

The photo really doesn’t do justice as this was hours later after all the water in the bathroom had drained.

So I have a washing machine and slop sink draining into ground water. I know this is against code. Do I need a sewage ejector or would a basic sump pump plumbed into main stack be ok? (only for these 2 fixtures not basment floor drains)

This is a water line to a fridge

Hello,

Every 3-4 months our lift station overflows. A local plumber has come out and inspected it and said the pump is fine but the float keeps getting encased in grease and thus weighing it down and consequently not triggering the pump.

We don’t pour grease down the drain, and did not have the issue the first year or so of owning the property and now it has to be pumped 3-4 times a year. Is there something we’re missing here that could be contributing to grease getting into the lift station, or is the pump possibly faulty?

Any ideas? Suggestions? Is this sometimes to be expected with a lift station/being farther from the road?

Thanks in advance for your time. I really appreciate it.

I’m looking for a wide niche for a shower remodel. Kerdi doesn’t offer any this wide. It’s a non load bearing wall so I have the freedom. Has anybody had any experience with these prefab pvc niches?? Any advice would be much appreciated

New to homeownership and trying to get hot water in the backyard. Was wondering if I installed an aerator adapter to garden hose on a sink, can the pipes / sink handle the back pressure if the water flow is not constantly running?

Hello all. Installed very expensive new sink and coupled with a faucet assembly that's really LOUD when the water is turned on more than a mild trickle. Any ideas?

Not acrylic, not 100% silicone, nothing stays stuck to the surround which has caused water damage. I have tried the fill the tub trick, but it still didn’t stay stuck. Cleaned with the silicone remover, cleaned with isopropyl, haven’t tried sanding the area yet but I am going to try caulking again in the next couple days so I’m hoping for some helpful advice!

I was told filling the tub puts the silicone in its most stretched position and therefore it would not pull away when the tub is actually being used?

I have a section of a building where hot water is coming from the cold. I’ve isolated all the mixing valves with no success. There is a janitor sink but the water is isolated as it should. I did notice a significant pressure drop when the cold water is used in other areas of the building. Is it possible that a pressure drop could cause a vacuum drawing the hot into the cold at the electric water tank?

-There is no vacuum breaker on the tank. -I’m sure the PRV is faulty.

I’m sure it’s probably been asked in here more times than anyone can count. Just making sure my expectations are correct when I contact a plumber tomorrow.

About an hour ago I hear my water heater make a loud noise that was a combination of boiling/bubbling and pressure release. In the past it could be pretty noisy during a large volume replacement like a shower. So I ran upstairs to ask my wife if she just showered, and she had only used hot water to wash her face really fast. Concerning, but the noise stopped.

The it started to leak. Not a bursting but it’s filling the drip/leak tray(about 3/4-1 gallon) every 30-45 minutes.

We are first time homeowners and as such we’ve learned plenty of costly mistakes. Feels like this may be the next one(water heater maintenance) Was told when we bought the house 3 years ago that the water heater was brand new, of course as I’ve just checked the warranty on it it’s actually 6 years and 4 months old. Can anyone guess the warranty on the heater? Lol

Anyway. I’m assuming a leak from the bottom after those noises was the tank un-aliving itself. Is there any chance that it’s a valve or another piece that went? I’m about to flush it to avoid a catastrophe and something I know now after reading should be done yearly. Is it worth the 200.00 a plumber is going to charge me to look at it tomorrow, or should I just order a new one? I suppose I’m asking if there’s a significant chance(60% or greater) that it’s not a complete structural failure or is it more likely that she’s gone?.

Is there any reason for me to refill it after flushing, or is there zero chance that sediment can cause a leak that’s not permanent damage?

Cheers.

Hey guys ... I am looking to get some input from the more experienced folks here. First a bit of history as to why I am undertaking this project ....

One day an inexperienced engineer in our new condo building decided to "back flush" the water main and it seems the water pressure went so high, it blew through the pressure valve on the hot water heater and hot water poured into my condo and all the condo units in my line .. out .. over the pan and into my condo ... for hours. It soaked the drywall and all into the living room and into bedroom.

Nonetheless ... it was taken care of, 2 weeks of fans and dehumidifiers and drywall work. A huge PITA!

So, to never ever it happening again, I invested in a leak detection system and devices.

Now, I am looking to install one of their components, which is a wifi valve shutoff module. The water main into my condo is a 1" copper and it has a 1" ball valve.

After the ball valve on a section of the 1" copper main ... I plan on insert the 1" Wifi Shut off valve module with shark bite 1" couplers on each side. Would this be an OK project to do ? ... 1" shark bites on condo water main? ... or would 1" threaded compression connectors be more reliable? I am trying to avoid brazing as last resort with this project. Below are the items.

Thanks in advance!

https://preview.redd.it/wf2nicue6b0d1.jpg?width=1489&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cad5427a3e5fdb2d488193dcc759169c0250cb57

https://preview.redd.it/kqqp1bue6b0d1.jpg?width=679&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=03fba2525dcc8dc52c686d8406400b5d5cdcd08d

Anyone have a cost effective solution? Are the 100 micron filters(or a different micron size) about right or do you need a scale specific. Some of the mircron filters are cleanable which sounds good.

First off, what do I do? I've turned off the water main. I feel like considerable damage has been done. What do I do if the need arises to hold them responsible?

Have a 19 year old house which I’ve owned for 4 years. I’ve upgraded faucets from the builder grade stuff since I’ve owned it and this was a problem before, so I know it’s not an issue with the fixture. Both sinks take almost 5 minutes for the water to get hot. The tub and shower are just feet away and both of those heat up within 1-2 minutes. It’s so annoying. I hate letting the water run for 5 minutes to wash my face at night. It doesn’t matter if the shower or tub I s already running and hot- the sink water is still cold and takes almost as long to heat up. Surely the water for tub and sink is coming into that bathroom in the same line, then getting separated somewhere nearby, right? Is this problem because the tub and shower are moving larger amounts of water through the line faster and emptying out the cold water between them and the water heater more quickly? Is there anything I can do to improve it? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I’m not a plumber but I’ve renovated a couple of bathrooms and kitchens and understand the basics of how the water comes into the house to the heater and then to where ever it’s going, and can’t picture what causes this delay in hot water between fixtures that are in the same room.

I have a nice retractable reel on the way and wanted to make a little connection station mounted to an HDPE board on my fence with shutoffs and quick disconnects.

One line in through fence, hits splitter/manifold, then one connection to reel, one to short hose for drinking or filling watering cans, and another for whatever.

Problem is I can't seem to find any splitters using the terms surface mount, mountable, etc. Should I just make one my own or does anyone have general advice?

I was told this back flow preventer is why my hose pressure is not as strong as it could be. I was easily able to remove it, however, I was unable to thread a hose directly onto the spigot. Male to female it just did not work. I thought it was stripped so I tried my second hose bib on the other side of the house, same thing. I can easily remove and put on the black flow preventer but can’t thread a hose direct to the spigot.

Am I missing something or does this spigot require this back flow to be attached in order to use it. Thank you