Lot of staining on it. Unsure of age. Dont see too much fibers glistening on the edges indicating off worn out material. Just a lot of stains

Can an EPDM roof be DIY’d correctly?

This roof (Georgian , UK) has been ‘fixed’ by 3/4 roofers in the past 5 years or so- not all under our watch. It’s a flat roof with a slight slope to allow drainage. It’s leaking and has been / getting worse. Apparently this problem was inherited (I’m not the owner and as a FTB they didn’t really know about it). Also, the roof is over one apartment- which shouldn’t matter, However the other tenants are either renting or are also leaseholders but not willing to help with the costs. I do believe there is a sinking fund but no idea how to access it and can’t even get in touch with the freeholders. Probably also important to note it is a listed property.

Recently adding that electric work will have to be done, It’s causing a lot of financial strain and emotional stress on my partner.

Roofers cancel for quotes and have done poor work.

Can REAL repairs be done DIY?

Thanks in advance.

We had the contractor come out and tell us we have foundation issues. We have never had foundation issues and there is no evidence of it.

What we found out by hiring a 3rd party to inspect: This is a cathedral ceiling without rafters. They installed ventilation on the other side of the roof but not on this side. I had a 3rd party inspect the roof and this is what he found. He said it needs a ridge cap. This roof has a 10 year warranty. I'm assuming this problem will only get worse.

The 3rd party also found nails sticking up and spots where they used liquid nail to hold down the shingles.

Hi Everyone. I'm looking to start my own roofing company and am looking to get a better understanding of some of the costs associated with owning my own business. I'm currently working on creating an Excel sheet where I can break down all of the costs so that I can calculate what my break-even number should be for a given job.

I'm looking to see if anyone could help share what their business's cost breakdown structure looks like either in percentages or dollar amounts so that I can create my calculator. Thanks.

Original post here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Roofing/s/l3URpGLAnz

Had a roofer come out and he said the humidity is caused by lack of intake, and recommended smart vents. He said the soffits are clogged (I installed them myself and they have a clear path into the attic as far as I could see..) He also said he doesn’t believe in ridge vents because they get invisibly clogged all the time.

He also stated the attic will always have some humidity and condensation on the nails (we live in the PNW.) so it’ll still be there, just not as bad after the smart vents are installed (if we go that route.)

From perusing this subreddit, some of this sounded off and aanrsd to cross check with the pros here…

(Side note, here’s condensation I found on the interior peak in the attic.)

Hi, I live in southern california. I got 3 quotes and they all range between $30k-$40k for composite GAF shingles. My house is about ~2500 SQ. My roof is about ~4700 SQ. The quotes I received all seem high to me. Is this really how expensive things have gotten? I remember back in the day, you can get a new roof for 15k. Can someone confirm that this is the going price and that they have also received similar quotes? I am planning to get more quotes but don't want to waste my time if this is the standard price ;) Thanks!

DIYer here - while I've done roofing as a helper in the past, roofing my shed is the first time flying solo.

Curious what is the right way to finish off the peak of the roof. Last row of shingles has the glue line about 3" from the peak. My drip edge has 2" coverage.

Shed is free standing - I have complete access to the peak.

Appreciate any tips/tricks so I don't compromise the roof.

Thanks,

Rick

I'm trying to decide on the shingles I'll be getting for a new roof. I live in central, TX and we've experienced significant hail storms before.

The difference between class 3 and non ir shingles is $1,191. My insurance said I would save $80 annually on a new roof alone and then +$216 for ir* shingles; a total savings of $296.

I'm finding a lot of mixed reviews about their worth. It's between Oakridge shingles and Duration/Duration Designer shingles.

Any insight would be appreciated

Hey guys - I have a new asphalt shingles scheduled to be installed this Thursday in SE Wisconsin.

Temperature is supposed to be in the teens in the morning with a high temp of 28 later in the day.

The roofing contractor has ensured me that they have no concerns with the temp, but what I’m seeing online suggests otherwise. Should I ask them to reschedule or is this ok?

Thanks in advance

Hey all,

I'm having my attic air sealed and blown in insulation added but the contractor noted a patch of mold growth on the underside of the deck sheathing in the attic right below the furnace B-Vent/flashing. He said its either a leak or possible condensation. If condensation, he said air sealing the attic would help reduce that together with ensuring soffit venting/baffles are not blocked, but also suggested I inspect the roof vent and flashing too.

I recently did that and can't see anything obvious near the flashing, eg. rusty nails, stains, etc. The B Vent storm collar looks OK. Does it make sense to remove the rain cap, storm collar, flashing, and shingles to expose the decking to be sure? I'd prefer not to do that if I can avoid it but don't know if there may be another less intrusive way to go about this.

Thanks for answering.

Hello,

I and my wife just purchased a house in the Midwest and the biggest item found during the inspection was mold in the attic. The seller already paid for mold cleaning and the follow up inspection revealed no mold in the attic. With that said the inspector recommended that we contact a roofing company to install further ventilation into the attic and maybe further insulation so that no warm air escapes into the attic during the winter.

Winter is coming up (this week was ~15 degrees) and I am unsure whether this is an item for the spring or whether it should be looked at ASAP? I looked up online and people are saying that usually mold in the attic happens during the winter when the warmth of the house escapes into the attic and condenses. With that said.. do roofers even pick up items like this during the winter?

Thank you for all your help. I am a new homeowner so I am sorry if my question is dumbfounded.

I'm getting a few quotes to replace a small section of flat roof. One company has suggested using Alwitra and given a quote of £1600 - which seems too good to be true given that the only other quote I have so far was £4000.

I made a bad decision on this roof before because I cheaped out and don't want to make the same mistake again - but I can't tell from researching it whether it is a "proper" reliable material or not, or another cheap fix. There isn't much online discussion around it.

I'm also not sure if this cost is going to grow once they uncover rotten wood underneath the old felt, but I guess I should speak to them about that. If they're just slapping this Alwitra stuff on top to give me a low quote then how bad of an idea would that be? Or maybe I am just lucky with good work at a good price...

Three months ago we had a new roof put on our home to prepare it for putting on the market this spring. Prior to this we had an attic fan and ventilation that kept the humidity in the attic to a minimum. We live in NE Ohio where it is very humid. The roofer said that attic fans are now considered unnecessary and removed it as well as changed the venting. We now have condensation dripping from the roofing nails, high humidity, and mold growing up the sides. We have tried contacting the owner of the roofing company and have not heard back. I could see not installing an attic fan where one didn’t exist, but why would they remove one that was already there, especially if it could provide extra ventilation in a very humid environment? We’ve contacted a mold removal expert, but we need to address the source the issue first by having the roofer re-install the attic fan. I’m hoping for some opinions and suggestions from the roofing community.

I'm being charged a $99.00 service fee for a quote from a roofing company that I decided not to go with. I wouldn't mind paying the $99.00, but they left the shingles completely loose after the quote. 2 weeks later another company came to give me a quote and they were able to lift the shingle with just 1 finger from how loose they were left by the previous company trying to charge me the $99.00 fee. Am I in the wrong in not wanting to pay it? How should I go from here? Appreciate any info

edit to add clarification: The fee is not the main problem, the core issue I need clarification on is if the shingles are suppose to be loose after the quote, he was checking a section of my roof for water getting under the shingles. He had to lift it up to verify if water was getting underneath. My main question is: Should a section of shingles be loose after a quote?