Accidentally cracked a tile on my roof hanging Christmas lights. Is this fixable or do I need to have it replaced?

Los Angeles home with tectum roof installed over 4x6 rafters. In the living/dining rooms you look up and see the rafters and tectum.

We're replacing the asphalt shingles (with Owens Corning duration) and the contractor said he has to lay down OSB because tectum isn't approved as a nailable, structural surface anymore. He wants to use radiant OSB. From what I've read, this won't help with insulation since there'll be no air gap between the OSB and the tectum. Should I ask if he's installing battens? Is there any value to the radiant OSB without them?

Very grateful for any advice you can offer. Thank you!

Just bought a house in Washington state and part of the inspection noted the need for ridge cap replacement.

I had a few companies out today to quote for repairs. A local, family owned company quoted $1800 to replace 100ft of ridge cap and replace 6 cheaper plastic boots with lead boots.

I’m clueless to the cost of this. My main concern, after doing research on this forum and others, is that this is a low quote and would risk a poor install. I don’t want to gamble with my roof or risking leans and want this done right. Thank you for the input!

Picture taken of the chimney which I am having sealed/ metal caps that need replaced this week as well.

Have a question about skylight placement. This is in an existing home that will soon be getting a re-roof, roof is sloped.

Question: How close to the exterior wall can you frame in a skylight? I have a corner of my house that I'm building a new shower into and I'm looking at a Velux skylight with a humidity sensor to put right above the shower. It's gonna be a big (almost 4X6) shower for 2 so. I'm looking at one of their 21X46 sized ones.

Originally I was going to center the skylight on the shower dimensions which would put the skylight around a foot in from exterior wall on two sides, but it occurred to me if I shift the skylight down (the ceiling is vaulted, so down the vault) I could, at the top of the skylight install a ceiling fan to intercept steam from the shower if/when I don't have the skylight itself open. So was wondering if I need a certain amount of clearance around the skylight.

Here's a picture I rendered in Home Architect for a bit of (hopefully) clarity:

https://preview.redd.it/a9b8hjmhvzzd1.png?width=2196&format=png&auto=webp&s=c279806f0f85d4fd1b42efc741d8184fe1d5a214

I have a new house that is leaking from a union done from the addition of a new structure to the back. Does anybody know the best way to seal it? Would it be enough to just put some silicone sealant over it without adding hydraulic cement to fill the space or a fiberglass mesh to cover the union? I would like to know whats best so I can select the best roofing contractor, so far, none have mentioned doing anything to it other than adding the sealant.

Link to picture and video below: https://imgur.com/a/xU1JkXr

I live in Canada (a very hail prone area, Alberta) and got hail damage.

I got 4 quotes and they’re all the same, I found out why. Every contractor here has ditched Owens and only offer IKO. I think it’s because there’s a IKO factory right here in the city.

So is it worth the up charge to go from basic Cambridge stuff to class4? I’m expecting more hail in the future. Insurance will give like a $100-200 discount/annual. So to break even it would take like 20 years lmao.

I did Google and search this subreddit and I read very very polarizing comments. From “IKO is trash” to “IKO manufactures for everyone else. You’re getting IKO at the end of the day”

Is class 3 sorta a joke? We saw golf ball sized hail in August. Anyone with vinyl siding looks like a warzone

How many of you installed the stuff from menards. I put one on my garage last year. The part I don't like is the overlapping rib instead of being square it's rounded, when I screwed the top cap on the screw didn't want to go straight through down hill.

The lowest row of slates on my 100 year old roof are beginning to slant so they don’t hang straight. There’s plenty of videos out there showing how to repair slate shingles in the middle of a roof, but none I find showing repairs to the lowest row. Anyone here know how it’s done?

Noticed a wet spot in my ceiling last week. Brand new’ish two year old house. No plumbing above it. I suspected it had to do with the plumbing vent which is in the vicinity of the spot, but it gets weird. We first noticed it a day after a heavy rain. Called roofers to come look but they couldn’t make it for a few days. In the interim another crazy rain happened and it seemed no worse for wear, and almost seemed dry at this point. Got a different roofer to come look (he’s an old friend and just stopped by to look before his “young guys” could come back proper next week) and he poked a hole in the ceiling wet sheetrock because he wanted us to see when it dripped. Weirdly enough, today (two days later) with zero rain it looked the worst it has since it started. Much larger wet spot, and like a single drop in the bucket below. And it hadn’t rained in days. Additionally, it started raining really hard for about two hours just now, and it still seems almost exactly the same as if rain is barely affecting it at all, although there is a couple drops in the bucket. My leading theory now is that the roof and vent are fine, but someone didn’t glue some of the pvc together very well going to the roof. We’ve had some crazy temp fluctuations and maybe they caused the pvc to separate just a bit from contraction/expansion. So we have some days where maybe humidity has caused condensation inside the pipe, and also when it rains maybe a little is collecting as well at that low point/likely elbow and dripping out? Any of this sound plausible? For what it’s worth, the HVAC guys or plumbers (whoever did it) did the exact same thing and we had to reglue some of their connections for our exhaust out of the basement.

We have this small area of standing seam over one of our properties kitchens. Seems to be in good shape, so our roofer said he would paint it.

How would you suggest going about this? I’d like to get the materials for him. He said he didn’t have a preference on what to use lol

tldr; Does anyone know how recent the work experience requirement needs to be for licensing in Florida? If it matters at all?

Long version:

I help my dad with his handyman business, handling all the business side. His actual background is mainly in roofing, having 30+ years' experience.

He moved from Texas a couple years back and started the handyman business. After the most recent hurricane he had a number of potential clients reaching out to him to fix some small roof repairs. That would be a piece of cake, but he had to turn them down because he's not licensed.

So we are looking at him potentially getting licensed. He has the experience, but he's getting up there in age so he stopped roofing a while back. I'm just wondering how recent does the experience need to be. I couldn't find anything on the licensing site, just that they require 4 years, including 1 as foreman.

I have a pole barn that has 3.5/12 roof pitch. I’m trying to extend the roof line to make a carport but cannot find trusses with a 3.5/12. Only 3/12 or 4/12. Any suggestions on where to find the right trusses or and ideas on how to extend the roofline without it looking like crap?

I did it myself