Hello!

I’ve had this TV for a couple of years. I got it secondhand off a friend’s family. It’s been working fine, no issues, until a week ago it wouldn’t turn on. I changed the batteries in the remote, checked the outlet, left it unplugged for a couple of days, held the power button on the TV for 30 seconds, 1 minute…no luck. Is there any way to salvage this TV? I’d really like to keep it as it still hooks up to my DVD player.

Any advice/suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

This TV is 15 years old. I turned it on today for first time in a few months. It has colored dots all over the screen on HDMI inputs or even on the menu. It looks like the control for the panel has failed but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas other than recycling. I like this TV for component inputs.

I got this Philips TV from my daughter. Recently it went to a blue screen. You can hear audio clicks when using the remote but no picture. She does not have the reciept, but manufacre date is clearly within the warranty period. Philips agrees, but says no receipt, no fix.

I have looked for this problem on the web, but have not found anything. It is not an expensive item, it is just the principle.

Any thoughts before I just pitch it? Thanks

Iv tried everything from hard reset to using different HD cables etc, it's odd because It only does it on certain episodes (casting from netflix) mostly works fine otherwise. TIA

For context, I bought this TV second hand. It's an Onn Roku TV, model 100012588. The issue was that there was no display, suddenly stopped working. I figured it would be an easy fix, so I bought it off the person.

After doing some tests, I think that the panel drivers are the issue. The TV "glows" which tells me backlights are fine. After some research, I hear that it could be a T-Con issue. I remove the right ribbon cables from the T-Con to see if the left side works, and it does. The display on the left side is fully functional, but the right side is just a white screen. I reconnect the right ribbon and remove the left one and it gives me that same "glow" all around. I've switched ribbon cables too to make sure it's not a faulty cable, and sure enough the issue persists. I figure it's an easy fix and just order a new T-Con board. It comes in today and after replacing it, the same issues persist. It makes me believe that I'm either unlucky with my T-Con replacement for it to have the exact same issue or it's the Panel Driver that's giving me problems.

For clarification, everything seems to be in perfect condition. There isn't anything unplugged, damaged, burned, etc. so I really don't know what could be causing this.

I'm still really new to TV repairs (and repairs in general) so I can only really replace boards or backlights. I don't know how to check for a short or busted fuse with a multimeter, and I've heard that a Panel Driver replacement/repair is either really hard or impossible. However, I figured that it would be worth asking a sub dedicated to fixing TVs would know more than I would. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Or how likely it is for the Panel Driver to be the issue? Anything to help me learn would be appreciated!

TLDR: Second hand TV has no display but "glows". Some testing told me it was a T-Con issue, but after replacing it, issues persisted, telling me it's a Panel Driver issue. Wanted to ask if it's possible to fix a problem like that or if my T-Con replacement was just unlucky.

It's a regular monitor not a smart tv. Just now the TV image froze, while also having vertical pink lines on the image and making a loud continuous noise. I unplugged it, and when I plugged it back in, the red light was on and it was making a faint high pitched noise. The TV won't turn on. I tried many things, including unplugging it, press holding the power button to drain residual energy, removing the batteries from the remote and trying a different outlet. Is the TV fried or can anything be done without needing service from a professional? Thanks in advance.

Hi All. I have read through all of the posts about the dreaded Samsung vertical shadow, which popped up on my 4 year old tv a couple of months ago. I know that most posts say it is a backlight issue. Yesterday, it escalated to this(see pictures below on the bottom left). Is this a backlight issue or something different? Any advice would be most appreciated before I head down the road with Samsung customer support or getting a new tv.

https://preview.redd.it/wts2e0907rge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc6942a097478dea59b5917c418c39d92ead16e2

TV worked fine for many years, then one day suddenly turned off and would not turn back on - no signs of life. I popped the back off, and the only visible problem is this poor little crispy dude (C620) in the center of the photo (on what is clearly the power board). I assume it is normally the same lovely blue as its sibling on the right.

crispy capacitor (C620)

Everything else looks fine (which I realize guarantees nothing). So I can replace that capacitor, no problem, but I have two questions:

1. How can I figure out what capacitance I need there?

Its similarly-sized siblings elsewhere on the board are a variety including both 101K (100 pF, 1kV) and 221K (220 pF, 2kV). It's maybe possible that I can read the markings on the dead one, but I'm not optimistic since they're printed in black ink and I don't think there will be much contrast.

I found the service manual for this model, but it doesn't have schematics or list the values of the various parts.

I found a post on ifixit (URL on request, not sure if it's okay to link there) from someone whose C620 blew on the power board for his 65UH7650 (similar, not quite the same); on the replacement board, it turned out to be a TDK 221K (220 pF, 2kV). The board looks very similar (in both part IDs and placement), but not identical.

2. Is it likely to be enough to just replace the blown capacitor? I looked carefully at both sides of the board and didn't see any other signs of problems (though I didn't disturb the white goo, which I assume is some kind of thermal conductor). And 3 people responded to the ifixit post that I mentioned above and said that replacing just C620 was enough for them...

Any help or informed advice would be appreciated.

Hey, I get these errors during scenes with high contrasts and bright lightning situations. Someone know whats the problem and/or a fix?

Worth fixing?

I have this new Hisense TV that when taken out the box and powered on has a blank screen w/ back light. When one ribbon of the T-Con board is taken out the pictured display appears. When the other ribbon side is taken out and the first put back in the original blank display with baclight appears. I have already replaced the T-Con board but it didn't fix the issue. Does anybody have any ideas as to what it could be or how I could find out? Warranty isn't an option unfortunately due to my remote location.

Hello

My SONY XR-65A80L died on me was giving me 4 blinking red light (only 13 months use)

I bought the repair kit with all boards and usb. I replaced the power board and no change. Now I have replaced the main board, downloaded the firmware from Sony support (it’s not a .pkg file but two files and one stays zipped - Sony site says just copy both files to the USB) https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/oled-tvs-android-a80l_a83l_a84l-series/xr-65a80l/software/00294706

So obviously my screen doesn’t work so I am working blind, anyone know the exact procedure to update the main board firmware when screen is dark? Like tv power before usb or vice versa? What does it mean if 4 blinks red changed to 8 blinks red light?

Appreciate any help or tips! Thanks

Hi. I have a Toshiba 50L711U18 Rev B. I turn it on and have a perfect picture, cable signal and audio. After a couple of minutes, the screen goes black but audio and signal remain. Turn it off....leave it set a minute and turn it back on and again I have a perfect picture, audio and cable signal but then the screen goes black again with audio and cable signal remaining...and then repeat. Like I say, the picture is perfect then it just goes blank. Any ideas? Thanks, DD