/r/bouldering
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/r/bouldering
I haven’t been so psyched about sending a boulder in a while, super well set and moves felt really unique.
What is the one problem that seemed ridiculous, like totally impossible, when you touched the holds? For me it is definitely Dreamtime in Switzerland. The first few hand holds are these tiny sloping crimps up a steep wall. They would make crappy footholds. It's insane to me that people have climbed that problem. I have touched many other V15 problems and thought " that seems really hard, but doable for strong people."
Hey:)
I'll be backpacking through Indonesia for a few months and wanted to know if there are any good boulder gyms or even outdoor boulder which I should visit.
Something I'm gonna try doing is a bit of journalling after every session. I feel like this could be useful in tracking my progress towards my climbing goals, remember the small microbetas that you've learnt, and might provide clearer direction in future sessions (eg. identifying a weakness, and scheduling a session to work on said weakness)
That said, I want to ask what makes a session good/productive to you!
Here are some of the guiding questions that I've thought of, if you have a good question please feel free to share too!
Journalling questions: 1a) How hard did you try today? (physically) (1-5) 1b) How focused were you today? (1-5) 2) How meaningful were your attempts today? (1-5) 3) How closely did you stick to your plan today? 4) For a given thing you learnt: 4a) what was the problem? 4b) how did this beta resolve this problem? 4c) can this problem be resolved any other way?
hope u guys have noice day today
I've been climbing for about 8 months now,, climbing grade level around 6a-6b, but struggling to get through this plateau.
I was wondering when I should start incorparating hangboard climbing, to improve my finger strength, wich I feel like its lacking on the more crimpy holds at those grade levels.
Been thinking about getting the beastmaker 1000. Any advice and training tips would be very much appreciated.
I noticed that whenever i do a move like this or something similar as shown in the video, my other leg tends to move in the other direction and pull my hips away from the desired hold. It could possibly be due to the fact i didn’t apply as much force on the leg swinging out. help on how to solve this?
Hey boulderers!
We are the people behind the app, KAYA
We’re founded and built by lifelong climbers aiming to make a great product for our community. We are stoked to answer your questions about the app, our vision for KAYA, our team, what we’re working on (out on the rock or in the product), and any other burning or random questions you may have.
About KAYA:
KAYA is a climbing app that hosts all the beta for your gym and crag in one place.
Our mission is to help climbers share meaningful climbing experiences on and off the wall. We strive to make climbing more accessible, sustainably.
The Crew (top left to bottom left):
Marc: Marc started climbing in 2008. He built the first iteration of KAYA in 2017 while van-dwelling and chasing conditions with his partner Ash and their dog Sharkbait. He co-founded a non-profit in Seattle to help youth experience climbing where they otherwise wouldn't have the opportunity. He now splits his time between Squamish and Hueco developing boulders and building KAYA's tech.
Andrew: Andrew started climbing in NYC in 2013 and prior to KAYA worked in public lands advocacy. He now leads our guidebook author data pipeline and travels nearly full-time in his van enjoying climbing across the country. He is passionate about social justice, the sustainability of climbing, and is better than you at Karaoke.
Eric: Eric began climbing in 2011 and does our marketing. He is a big nerd for bouldering data and quality and KAYA is a natural extension of his obsession. He spends much of his time developing boulders and on his "Quest for the Best" journey. He recently moved to the land of bullet sandstone--the New River Gorge.
John: John started climbing seriously in 2003 and has spent the last two decades pursuing routesetting, ultimately achieving the certification of Level 5 National Chief through USA Climbing. He joined KAYA shortly after it’s founding to help impact the space of climbing as Partnerships Director. He serves on the USA Climbing Routesetting Committee and instructs both competition and commercial routesetting clinics. John currently calls Salt Lake City home and travels frequently chasing those sweet bouldering temps. He recently fully ruptured his A2, ask him if you wanna see the vid. RIP.
David: David started climbing in 1995. After spending many years as an artist, he built KAYA in collaboration with Marc and leads our product efforts. He is a cofounder and our CEO. He was involved in early development in Joe's, LCC, Ibex, Moe's and Castle Rock and competed in the PCA during that time. He now resides with his fam in Tahoe and loves the granite and powder.
Kendel: Kendel is a passionate multi-sport athlete who recently joined the team to help lead our marketing and community efforts with a depth of experience in growing sports-tech communities.
Also! We’d greatly appreciate any feedback or suggestions you may have to improve your experience! For specific technical support please email support@kayaclimb.com
Drop your questions and we’ll be happy to answer as best we can! P.S. Please be patient with us as we are fitting in responses between our normal work tasks :-)
Thanks so much! Marc, David, Eric, John, Andrew, and Kendel
After my last post I read through all of the comments about different places I could improve and techniques I could incorporate, I used these in this climb and it made a huge difference, the ways to stop my legs cutting loose were a life changer.
So thank you to those of you who commented, I used pretty much all of the things said and I flashed it today!
Hell yeah
I've pulled my lat 3 times this year - all from big compression moves that require some slight twisting of the back.
I've seen a PT for strengthening exercises but I'm looking for some extra advice as it keeps happening. I usually fully recover in about 2 weeks but it's really getting me down this time :(
Any exercises, technique advice, general rehab, thoughts?
Thanks a lot!
EDIT: Right at the front because some people are going out of there to ignore this. I CAN climb moonboard I have climbed several V4s but mostly around V3 ON THE MOONBOARD. I am merely pointing out some of the grading on the lower end of the moonboard seems quite bizarre to me, bordering on quite gatekeepy.
I generally climb anywhere between a hard v4 or easy V6 (GYM WALL NOT MOONBOARD) if it's very finger strength based.
I love the moon board lately but sometimes I'll load it up and go down to a V2 and it's rated highly and it's like... In no universe is it a V2.
Is this a complete different grade system? Sometimes I'll do a high rated V4 and be like ok I felt that it was doable, try a V2 and try it once and be like yeah I'm not wasting my time on that, it's not possible for me.
I just don't understand what people gain from so blatantly sandbagging routes, unless it's kids who think it's funny or something.
Fiesta Wall in San Antonio ; there is a V3 that starts at the left flake and finishes up in the middle of the block, and a V4 that starts underneath and finishes up right ; on this one I basically did the start of the V4 backwards, traversed over and did the start of the V3 backwards, and then linked to the V1 on the left side and topped out the same as you would on the V1
The V3 that starts on the flake is called Karmakazi and the V4 that starts in the middle underneath and goes right is called Karmakazi right so I called this one Kamakarma lol
Felt V3ish
Hi, I have for project to send "the majestic" in squamish BC by feb-May (not sure yet) and wanted to know if anyone had advices on how to prep myself to get it. I would love to flash it,
I am trying to get better outside. i have only tried little outside. for now i can do v4 poutside and v7 inside. any recommendation? weights, kilter board, fingerboard, ladders, etc....
Please any advice is welcome
Curious what type of goods you got close to home?? One off cliff, route, boulder, or a whole load of high quality climbing you could spend a lifetime exploring?? How close is close? And I guess, subsequently how far do you need to go for the closest quality climbing?
Featured is a clip from my closest quality climb…sub 2 miles from the doorstep. The moves are challenging, unique, and fun, and the access so easy/ close, that I make it here pretty often. Can’t beat the ‘quick hit’ sometimes :)
Finally ticked all the climbs under v2 at this little spot in Nashville, TN called toxic wall. I know it isn’t high grade climbing but some of these felt impossible for me at one time not too long ago and today I managed to get them all.
1 week trying this, and this it’s the furthest I've come
hey everyone, this is my first black i hit last week on my third attempt, feels pretty clean and honestly easier than some purples i have done at this gym.
even though it was definitely a softer black than others still found it quite difficult (thought i was gonna flash this😂) but any advice on body movement or position would mean a lot here, thanks!
I saw a post a while back spreading some alternative facts about me being a gymnast and so I want to clear things up…
Please AMA and hope y’all had a happy Thanksgiving