/r/indoorbouldering

Photograph via snooOG

A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here.

  • This sub is specifically made to accommodate indoor bouldering related discussions, questions and videos.

  • The /r/climbing shoe wiki will answer all your shoe questions. However, if you can't find an answer to your specific shoe question you can use stickied Weekly General Advice thread to ask your question.

  • Videos of outdoor sends are allowed and encouraged. There's no need to split up the community. You see anything related to ropeless climbing? Feel free to post it here

  • No roped climbing related content

  • Don't be a dick, it will get you banned

  • /r/indoorbouldering

    42,504 Subscribers

    24

    It's live!!! My card game you play at the bouldering gym is one step closer to reality.

    A little bit ago I made this post about a card game I'm developing. I was hesitant. I was nervous. I had never done a Kickstarter before. My creative endeavors don't always find an audience.

    But, I was blown away by the kind words of the indoor bouldering community.

    So here I am today to let you all know that the Kickstarter for this wacky idea of mine is officially live!

    If you are at all interested, click over, take a look, and maybe even sign up for a reward. Beta Break: a Card Game to Play at the Climbing Gym by Caleb J. Ross — Kickstarter

    The concept is simple:
    Two cards work together to challenge you to climb a problem in new and interesting ways. Every draw from the deck is a new challenge.

    https://preview.redd.it/v3kd6j7otbyd1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=ed31aa3f4764bac76298e97f647a3a98c2c32fbb

    0 Comments
    2024/11/01
    17:40 UTC

    15

    How do you feel about dogs in the climbing gym?

    They are relatively common in my locals

    46 Comments
    2024/11/01
    12:47 UTC

    0

    Creating a New Chalk Bag

    An Industrial Design Student from Iowa State looking to design a new chalk bag that better meets the needs of modern Rock Climbers. Any and all feed back is appreciated!

    https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScaUOa58traguQpEB5QAM3p1wGDiSPMJEb3gwGCgXlH_Dfvzg/viewform?usp=sf_link

    2 Comments
    2024/10/29
    20:46 UTC

    17

    slippery V3 send

    9 Comments
    2024/10/29
    18:00 UTC

    12

    Super beginner here and did a 5+(V2) recently. What can I do better? Any tips? P.S. The bottom half of the wall is straight, and upper half is inclined (towards the ground)- can't tell from the angle of the video.

    5 Comments
    2024/10/29
    10:54 UTC

    42

    What do you think about this "drop knee"?

    Just sent this yesterday and i really like this boulder. Your thoughts?

    9 Comments
    2024/10/29
    08:41 UTC

    6

    Cool V4, big powerful first and last move

    2 Comments
    2024/10/28
    22:50 UTC

    0

    would you grade this a v4?

    My first v4, been climbing for two weeks altogether!

    13 Comments
    2024/10/28
    21:24 UTC

    49

    First V2 (does my gym grade easy out of curiosity?)

    Do I have to hang for the finish to count or does this count also

    Very new only been climbing for like 3 weeks

    51 Comments
    2024/10/28
    15:26 UTC

    15

    Favorite problem from this gym. Bonus fall at the end

    V1-V2 range. Got my favorite fall out of it

    2 Comments
    2024/10/27
    09:28 UTC

    27

    I'm sad this project is over. V6 @ 45°

    1 Comment
    2024/10/26
    20:31 UTC

    0

    State fair route

    saw this and had to try it, got about half way up the taped off route before i dropped not knowing i only had one try :’), but i was wondering if anyone could figure out what V this is?

    6 Comments
    2024/10/26
    14:50 UTC

    13

    Another V2.

    These holds was much easier than the last V2 I posted.

    1 Comment
    2024/10/25
    20:33 UTC

    6

    What do you think of Ocun bullit?

    I want to buy my second shoe. My first shoe was an Ocun pearl 20 anniversary. It worked very good but I used it. I only do inside bouldering and I climb around 6a-6c. I usually climb slabs but I would like to have a shoe that is good for everything. Is Ocun Bullit good for this?

    Thanks for your feedbacks!

    3 Comments
    2024/10/25
    17:59 UTC

    25

    V2 grade. Any tips to go higher grade?

    I never made a v3. I can’t even climb some v2s. Any tips for v3 or just for develope.

    40 Comments
    2024/10/25
    08:09 UTC

    4

    How to repair my hands?

    Hi,

    TLDR: For whatever reasons (abrasive liquid chalk, incorrect technique, bad day), I fucked up my hands. It hurts more and more everytime I climb. Been following advice since I started climbing (a year ago). Now I need to salvage my hands, next step will be to focus on avoiding this happens again, but for now I need help.

    I've been bouldering for about a year, once or twice a week. My hands have been fine almost from the beginning: I do weightlifting so I already had "nice leathery calluses" (not too dry or too thick), same thing on the tip of my left hand fingers (I play the guitar). As my skills (slowly :D) improved, I got blisters on other phalanges and finger tips, but I file the calluses, remove the extra skin and use Kletter Retter cream after each session. My gym uses colour-coded grading, from what I could find on their blog my level is V3 (I'm in Denmark: https://boulders.dk/blog/grades).

    About two months ago, I used a brand new bottle of Petzl liquid chalk (used up the previous tube) and didn't think of shaking it - I thought it was a paste like the previous Petzl liquid chalk I used, but it was not, it was very liquid - and I got mostly alcohol on my hands (I think that's what happened). I didn't think of it at the time and climbed as usual, shaking the bottle a bit more every time I used it during the session.

    After the session, my hands were a mess, all rips and tears. The hard calluses were torn apart, the skin underneath was bright pink, felt like I lost several layers of skin, large flappers. Not to generalize, but what beginner climbers' hands usually look like (even though I'm still a beginner). I didn't worry, filed as usual, removed the flappers, used Kletter Retter cream. I've climbed a dozen times since then, and it's been worse each time: skin ripped after half an hour, painful red hands, blisters opened again and again. I suspected my skin didn't react well to liquid Petzl then switched to regular chalk and started using finger tape (maybe I don't know how to use it yet, but I don't like it).

    It's reached a point where my hands are too painful to climb for too long. I don't muscle up or do overhang routes anymore, only technical climbing, slow and statically (which has been most of my climbing routine for a while anyway, thanks to a good friend who teaches me a lot). My hands still hurt. I know one year of indoor bouldering isn't much, so maybe I'm missing something here. I've been searching posts about this issue, and they all say: file, use appropriate cream, don't wash your hands too often. Some posts suggest moisturising a lot and sleeping with gloves. Would that help?

    Should I just be patient, maybe reduce the frequency of climbing so my hands can heal a little bit? Use more chalk to avoid sweat at all cost when I climb? Chalk doesn't stick to my fingertips at the moment... Probably due to worn out skin? I do a lot of routes involving crimps. Or is it just sweat? Are there any products that would help? Get used to using tape? Not remove flappers and tape them to the palm? Use medical glue?

    I apologize for the long post, and for the lack of pictures, it would make it much easier to show, next time I climb I will. If my post is redundant, I'll delete it.

    Hope you can help though :) Thanks in advance!

    10 Comments
    2024/10/24
    21:29 UTC

    4

    What’s the correct etiquette

    If I want to project a tough climb and I chat with someone else who is already there and they ask if I’ve tried their project and it’s easy for me, how do I politely move on without being a show off lol.

    24 Comments
    2024/10/24
    11:16 UTC

    0

    I can only train once a week, how much progress am I missing out on?

    Hey everyone, complete beginner here but I've been loving it so far. The only indoor bouldering gym in my city is an hour away and prohibitively costly. This makes it possible for me to only climb once a week (~2 hours on Mondays).

    How much progress am I missing out on? Should I stop going for now and take it up later?

    I run and lift the rest of the week and will be able to go 2-3x a week next year once my gym membership expires.

    15 Comments
    2024/10/23
    07:40 UTC

    0

    Generally, on average how long does it take to get to V7+

    I've been climbing for about 5 months *starting from june* but I feel like I could be doing much more. I go anywhere from 3-6 days a week and have been really into it but I just really have that urge to get as good as I can as quickly as I can. I recently got a V6 for my first time so I'm trying to see if I'm on a good pace or if there is more I should be doing? Also if anyone has rec's on a good pair of climbing shoes to get, would love to hear.

    15 Comments
    2024/10/23
    05:50 UTC

    2

    Japanese Competitors Outfits

    Hello Guys, I was looking for any information on the shirt/outfit/tricot of the Olympic bouldering competitors for Japan since I find them to be really nice looking and wanted to buy one for myself. Does anybody know whether or not one can purchase these? Help is greatly appreciated

    1 Comment
    2024/10/22
    19:11 UTC

    114

    We need more rope boulder

    A while ago we had this rope boulder in our gym. It was really fun. We need more of those fun boulder imo. What you think?

    34 Comments
    2024/10/22
    07:28 UTC

    0

    Guess the Grade

    My gym had a competition recently and the competition climbs aren't graded on the V-scale. Instead they are given points. The easiest is 200 and the hardest is 4500.

    This one is steep with long moves on good jugs, and awards 2800 points.

    For reference I'm 6'2" and 210 lbs.

    15 Comments
    2024/10/22
    03:53 UTC

    12

    Want Beta Advice

    have trouble maintaining a force perpendicular to the slopers on this one. i am notably bad at slopers so there could be some obvious advice here. anything is appreciated :)

    5 Comments
    2024/10/21
    18:15 UTC

    9

    Lil' new one from yesterday

    "6" @ Circuit NE, PDX. They very explicitly aren't using the V-scale.

    It's hard to see in the video but the start includes a real fun little heel hook to almost bicycle move.

    6 Comments
    2024/10/20
    16:04 UTC

    9

    Most obvious things I need to work on that u can tell from this clip? 2 weeks into climbing

    I made it to the top but watching the video it looks very unnecessarily rough but im struggling to identify the specific things I should be targeting in my training. It’s a V2 in my gym but not sure how their grading system compares to other gyms.

    23 Comments
    2024/10/20
    05:42 UTC

    3

    Which division for recreational boulder comp?

    My gym is hosting a bouldering competition and the divisions are:

    • Recreational: v0 – v3
    • Intermediate: v3 – v5
    • Advanced: v5 – v7
    • Open: v7+

    I was originally leaning towards Recreational, but I've been climbing a lot recently and got my first v4, after 3 attempts on one my style. I think if I focus on bouldering until the competition and I can improve a good amount, but I feel like I'm stuck between being called a sandbagger or finishing near last in Intermediate

    8 Comments
    2024/10/20
    02:13 UTC

    1

    Recommendations on first pair of indoor bouldering shoes

    As the title says, I'm currently looking for my first pair of shoes and am around V4-V5 indoor climber. I have a few shoes in mind such as the Evolv V6, Scarpa Vapor S or Vapor V, and Scarpa Arpia V. My feet (US 8,.5M street wear) are narrow with a greek / roman shape and my heel is small so I tried some La Sportiva shoes such as the Kubo, Otaki, and Miura and found that my heel didn't feel that secure and had a bit of volume. This could be due to wrong size so I'm going to go to an REI to mass try on other sizes and shoes. Would like some ideas or recommendations on shoes. Thanks a lot.

    2 Comments
    2024/10/20
    01:07 UTC

    0

    Guess The Grade

    6 Comments
    2024/10/18
    17:58 UTC

    0

    Just curious how long everyone has been climbing and what indoor grade they currently climb

    For me, I have been climbing for roughly 7 months I would say 8 but I got injured on like my second session after getting a wrist injury and got pretty sick so my first month I basically couldn't climb. But as of currently I flash v5s pretty consistently and project v6-v7 and currently have topped six v7 s and one v8. I go very constantly though since I have a lot of freetime and climb/train roughly 4 times a week give or take a day depending on how I'm feeling. Highest grade on the kilter was v6 50° since that's more universally measurable as far as boulder grading goes. For some context, I weight 120lbs. my highest max hang currently is my body weight added 35 lbs on 20mm ledge for 12 seconds. Very much been enjoying my climbing journey and am excited to see my improvements in the future, just went to my first comp last week which was super fun. Also excited to hear everyone's experience with their climbing journey so far!! :))

    10 Comments
    2024/10/17
    06:26 UTC

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