/r/climbingshoes

Photograph via snooOG

A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes.

For those who enthuse and obsess over climbing shoes. Compensate for poor footwork here!

/r/climbingshoes

5,916 Subscribers

0

Love these shoes

Time to resole?

11 Comments
2024/12/02
17:31 UTC

1

Red Chili Sensor sizing

Hi! I just got the red chili sensor in 44.5/10. My normal shoe size is 43 but the 42 hurts too much so I got the bigger size instead. In the 44.5/10 my toe is really scrunched up, my feet fit really snug and it hurts a lot but I think it will be better overtime. So what do you guys think on this? Was it a bad decision that I sized up? Happy for answers!

0 Comments
2024/12/02
16:20 UTC

1

Suggestion on Miura VS

Hello everyone, I’ve just bought a pair of Miura VS. My street shoe average size is 44, so I got a 42 (EU size).

The shoes are new and I’ve used them only one time, causing a lot of pain on my fingers, especially big toe (with the right toe being a little scraped as some skin went off). I’ve always used very comfortable shoes like tarantula before this one.

Is this normal for a shoe like this to hurt and I’ll get used to it? Or it is just wrong for my foot and I’d better change it?

Thanks for your help!

2 Comments
2024/12/02
12:49 UTC

1

Do you take shoes off when top roping at gym?

I like to wear comfortable soft shoes when im top roping (Evolv Zenist) so im able to keep them on for the whole session. I know that I shouldn't walk in them to save the rubber and downturn but it slows us down having to put them on every climb. What do you do? do you take of shoes between top rope climbs? Lead climbing is ok because I have a bit of time between climbs so that's when I break out my Scarpa Insticts. I could always put a bit of plastic over my toes to make them slide on easier.

9 Comments
2024/12/02
12:37 UTC

1

Summer/winter sizing?

Hey! You guys wear different sizes in hot season vs cold season? I’m wandering if I should have the same shoes in two sizes since my “performance shoes” (futura) are perfect snug in winter but almost unbearable in summer. Therefore in summer I end up using my old first climbing shoes that were too big (katana)…. I feel like I go almost 0.5/1 full size bigger in summer due to heat/humidity…. Thanks!

1 Comment
2024/12/02
11:40 UTC

1

Tenaya Oasi - Good mid-tier shoe?

Hey everyone. I'm inquiring about an upgrade from my current shoes (The LS Tarantulas in size 9US) to a different pair. Based on the research I've done, paired with whatever is on sale right now, the Tenaya Oasi seems to work. I currently climb V5 peak, V4's. The first pair I had, being the tarantulas, got shred through quickly, likely due to my bad footwork, however I believe that I have improved since. I have a generally normal foot, no width or thinness, so I was just wondering how the Oasi's fit, feel and perform. Thanks!

3 Comments
2024/12/02
09:34 UTC

2

La Sportiva Futura Chalk fit advice and alternatives based on good toe hook and heel hook and smearing?

my feet length is like 25.5cm from front to back, 10cm widest in forefoot point middle big toe to pinkie toe, and heel width is like 6.75cmish... Tried it and there was alot of space above my toes and no matter how i curled my toes, there was a lot of space under as well... ..

im male. but would female version be shorter/less volume vertically in the front, or male is better just need to downsize length a lot?

3 Comments
2024/12/02
07:28 UTC

1

LS Solution

I’m new to climbing (on week 3 right now) and got the opportunity to get a decent deal on LS shoes and ended up getting solutions (the selection was limited) I’m becoming more aware that these are specialized shoes and don’t work so great in certain scenarios, I’m just curious on others opinions on if I messed up or not. I’m new to climbing so I’m not doing a lot of toe hooks really(if the climbs I’m doing have use for it, I don’t have the mindset to utilize them yet) Should I have gotten a different shoe? It doesn’t bother me that I generally need to take them off between problems, but I realize that other shoes are much better at smearing and volumes than these.
Per chance I DID mess up, would LS Ondra comps be a bad idea? They seem spectacular and specialized for everything I can think of at v3-4, I just don’t see a lot of people (or any for that sake) wearing them.
I’m running v3-4 right now, not necessarily capable of all of them but have a few on my belt of both. I can do most v2s easily as long as I’m not stuck on an overhang for too long since I lack the strength to do them thus far. Any tips or advice to a new climber is helpful.

7 Comments
2024/12/02
05:19 UTC

6

Advice on next shoes

hey! these are my current beginner shoes, only started indoor climbing about a month ago and the guy at the shop i went recommends these, so far so good i just find trouble in small footholds and when i need to use the wall (smearing?) so just curious what options are next as far as something more downturned but not too offset, and maybe a stiffer sole?

any advice appreciated!

8 Comments
2024/12/02
01:13 UTC

1

la sportiva mandala shoes are different sizes?

i bought the mandala (44.5) recently and had issues with my left foot hurting much more than the right. i then decided to go up a size (45.5) and those were too loose, so i went down a half one (45) and while the left fit, the right one was too loose. i then checked my feet, they are both the same length, i then checked the shoes, they are not. both the 44.5 and 45 have 2 different sized shoes. the size on the label is correct. has anyone else experienced this? kinda sucks im out 270€ now to get a single pair of fitting shoes

images of the two pairs https://imgur.com/a/Sv69IIj

anyone else has mandalas and can check if they are different?

1 Comment
2024/12/01
15:22 UTC

0

are shoes supposed to fit really tight?

My rock climbing gym only carries Mad Rock climbing shoes for rental options, and I always get a size 9.5. The 10s are too spacey and the 9s are too tight, but this brand new pair of Mad Rock shoes that I just got are so painfully tight I definitely will not be able to support my weight on my toe. It’s almost impossible to even walk in them, do they really have to break in that much? or should I just size up a half size? I’m confused because it’s the same brand and size that I always wear at my gym.

5 Comments
2024/12/01
15:13 UTC

2

Scarpa Instinct VS help

I wasn’t able to try the instinct VS at any of the places near me since they didn’t have any my size but I was able to try the VS women’s. Using the same size I regularly wore the toe box felt pretty cramped. I want to get the men’s VS, would the regular have a bigger toe box or should I upsize it by half an inch? Some other scarpas I was able to try out was the apria V and origins both felt comfortable.

4 Comments
2024/12/01
14:58 UTC

4

Types of shoes for each discipline?

I went a little crazy with all the black Friday deals and a few second hand shoes so now able to have a different shoe for everything. What would you look for in a shoe for indoor bouldering, outdoor bouldering, indoor sport, outdoor sport and easy warm up climbs?

11 Comments
2024/12/01
12:09 UTC

2

Scarpa Dragos or La Sportiva Otakis?

Getting them as a gift for my brother. He is a strong intermediate climber id say, been climbing for about a year and a half.

We mainly climb gym currently, with a strong focus on bouldering. However we do plan to focus more on top rope climbing soon here. And we also long term would like to take it outdoors, just might not be for a while.

The dragos seem like they are great for indoor/gym and bouldering in particular. On the other hand, the otakis seem like a strong all rounder, so would be nice when we eventually take it out doors and they also might be near as good for top rope as the dragos.

Im so torn, what would you guys recommend/do?

9 Comments
2024/12/01
07:27 UTC

1

Sizing for indalo

Hey so I have the mastias in a 7us wearing 9-9.5us in normal shoes. Im looking to get the indalos and was wondering if the sizing was similar to the mastias. After like an hour of climbing I noticed that i tend to slip a tiny bit in my mastias. The heel doesnt fit me right too because i get mild slippage. Was wondering if I should get the indalos in the same size or downsize to a 6.5us and if they have a chance of resolving my issues?

3 Comments
2024/12/01
07:26 UTC

4

Does anyone climb in shoes the same size as their street shoes? (and my feelings of buyers remorse)

Internet has a bunch or people saying sizing too small isn't great, and that the practice of the old days isn't as necessary today with modern climbing shoes.

But I feel most threads I read people still discuss downsizing. There's an interview with shoe designers here where they acknowledge they legacy-ness of downsizing, but they also say they recommend going down 1-1.5(in EU sizing).

All this is too say I just got my 2nd pair of shoes and I'm feeling some buyers remorse.

In street shoes I'm typically mens 11.5-12. My first shoes were leather Scarpa Origin's US size 12(EU 46). They felt so terrible(mostly on the top of my big toe nail) in the shop I couldn't go smaller. Once broken in they were pretty comfortable. I can't say I notice my foot moving around much in the shoe much when climbing, but I'm still a relatively inexperienced climber. I do have to pull a lot more on the velcro to get them snug than I used to. If I push against the heel there is definitely some space between my toes and the front of the shoe.

So today I tried on a number of options in different sizes. Two that stood out:

  1. Scarpa Force - Noticeably a level up in quality compared to the origins. I tried the 44.5. I mistakenly thought this would have been .5 less than my Origins. This felt just slightly tighter than snug. But I ended up buying 44, which is definitely too tight, fearing how much it might stretch. I'm now worried that since this shoe is lined that it might not stretch enough (because I read that could be the case not because I understand why).

  2. La Sportiva kubo - sales person suggested a 43.5 based on sizing I was liking from the Scarpa shoes I was trying. This actually felt pretty good despite being smaller. My heel just seemed to pop into it nicely. Not perfectly comfortable at the toes, but I could imagine them being comfy once broken in. I didn't buy this one but am still considering it in addition to, or instead of the Force. Thinking I might prefer this for gym boulders, and the Force for gym top rope.

22 Comments
2024/12/01
05:22 UTC

1

Scarpa men’s v. women’s sizing

Do Scarpa men’s and women’s sizing fit similarly in terms of length? I’m looking at the Instinct, and I want to try on both the men’s and women’s to see which is more comfortable in terms of width, heel cup, etc. But I’d like to know if a women’s 41 will be similar in length/shoe size as a men’s 41. I ask because in my La Sportiva Nepal mountaineering boots, men’s and women’s are pretty different! I take a 41 in men’s, but I think about a 42 or 42.5 in women’s?!? Thanks!

3 Comments
2024/12/01
02:10 UTC

0

New shoes with worn rubber? Should I return it?

Got a pair of instinct vs from REI yesterday and it arrived today with this. Is it okay to keep it or should I return it?

9 Comments
2024/12/01
02:08 UTC

1

Blood in climbing shoes

I had some heel bleeding in one of my shoes, what is the best way to get the blood out? It’s on a soft cloth like part of the shoe, and didn’t bleed through to the outside of the shoe.

4 Comments
2024/12/01
01:24 UTC

2

Indoor Bouldering Shoes

Hello, I am pretty new to bouldering and I'm looking to get a new pair of shoes so that I can have two pairs. I run wide feet about 10.5 2E in US street size. Currently, I am using the La Sportiva Finales in 42.5 EU but they are wearing near the toe I need to get them resoled. The fit on the Finales is pretty good after breaking them in, I have to curl my toes a little bit and wish they were slightly wider.

I climb around V3-5 and I go to the gym about 3x a week with each session being 2-3 hours so durability is a concern of mine. My gym also has textured walls.

I hear Scarpa is good for wide feet so I was thinking about trying the Veloces, Vapor V5, and Dragos but I am looking for more suggestions.

4 Comments
2024/11/30
20:25 UTC

1

Evolv Shaman vs Shaman Pro Fit

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone knew the difference in bit between the two models. I’ve read that it should fit the same but I have also heard that the heel is shallower in the Pro’s. Would anyone happen to know how the fit feels in the forefoot and heel volume-wise? Also how does the heel fit feel compared to the Phantom’s? Thanks!

5 Comments
2024/11/30
18:14 UTC

3

Intermediate shoes

I've been climbing for about 5 months now and can climb around v4-v5. I only boulder indoors, but maybe wanna try next season to go outdoors.

For black friday deals I would like to buy some new climbing shoes. Previously and as my only pair I have had Ocun Striker, but I think after use they are not that good for me anymore. (Starting to be slippery and broken)

I know there are no specific ones that are better, but I would like to know a few that I should try, that work for my case. My budget is not a problem, since I’ve saving money for this.

Thank you in advance!

2 Comments
2024/11/30
14:14 UTC

4

Customizing shoes

I really dislike the yellow color on my skwamas and want to paint them black, do any of you have any recommendations for what type of paint or dye I should use?

7 Comments
2024/11/29
21:54 UTC

1

Good beginner shoe other than Tarantula?

I was hoping to take advantage of some Black Friday deals on climbing shoes. I read some reviews that said Tarantulas wear kind of quickly so I wouldn't want that. I've been using loaner shoes from the gym that are pretty worn and would like something a little grippier for smearing but also a little stiffer.

I am doing mostly gym climbing at a top rope gym for about 6 months, but would like to climb outside with some friends in the spring so I'm looking for something that could work there too potentially. Or would it be better to get two different shoes, buying another pair in the spring? I live in the PNW of America if that helps.

Edit: What's with the downvotes? I'm just asking genuine questions. Isn't that what a community like this is for?

12 Comments
2024/11/29
20:28 UTC

6

My left foot is half a size longer...

Hey pros,

I'm sure some of you have faced the same issue. My left foot is a good centimeter longer than my right foot.

I went to a shop today to get a new pair for our bouldering hall. After testing about 10 pairs, from cheap to super pricey, I could not select any. My left tow is simply too long.

Either my right foot sizes as it should (IE., curly) and my left foot is terribly curled and hurts or the left one is curled and the right one is in a sneaker.

Should I buy 2 pairs with 1/2 size difference?

What I know is that lasportiva katana did feel good. Tarantulace was terrible, skwama was horrible, scarpa vapor and another scarpa were too large (I have narrow feet).

Happy to hear your thoughts as I'm a bit depressed!

14 Comments
2024/11/29
18:34 UTC

0

Climbing shoes under 50€

Hello! Can anyone recommend climbing shoes under 50€ (ideally 35€-ish). I'm very new, just recently has my fist contact class and want to go again :) indoor climbing Thanks!

3 Comments
2024/11/29
14:02 UTC

0

Sizing help for solution comp... my sizing is in body of post...

my feet length is like 25.5cm from front to back, 10cm widest in forefoot point middle big toe to pinkie toe, and heel width is like 6.75cmish... Tried it and there was alot of space above my toes and no matter how i curled my toes, there was a lot of space under as well... ..

im male. but would female version be shorter/less volume vertically in the front, or male is better just need to downsize length a lot to get the hook front to not feel like my toes are over air?

5 Comments
2024/11/29
11:56 UTC

1

Advice on next pair of shoes after Instinct VSR?

Looking to buy new shoes soon (probably Christmas not this weekend) and I'm looking to find a pair after my VSRs. I absolutely love them, but want to try other shoes as these are my first performance pair.

I've been looking at the solution comp women's as I really like the softer rubber and really liked the toe for the regular solution women's. I didn't like the heel which is why I want to try the comps, but I haven't gotten to size them.
I also really liked the Evolv Zenist but sadly the heel was way too big on me and I haven't had the opportunity to try any of their LV shoes.

Also looking for sizing advice as every brand seems different, currently wearing a size 40.5 VSR and had to break them in for two weeks. They fit me like a glove and are incredibly comfortable now. Heel cups are a pretty big deal to me cause they're what always seems to mess up my fit.

1 Comment
2024/11/29
05:01 UTC

9

Interesting detail about different shoe brands

Same size shoes very different lengths

Evolv Phantoms 10.5 Well loved Mad Rock Drone 2.0 10.5LV Brand new

15 Comments
2024/11/28
19:44 UTC

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