I’m planning on buying a pair of Tenaya Indalos, but I noticed that Tenaya shoes use Vibram XS Grip 1, which I found is less grippy and durable than Vibram XS Grip 2. I don’t mind it being less soft and sticky, but I’d prefer more durability. Could I resole them with XS Grip 2 after the original rubber wears out?

Love my current scarpa vapor v, had a pair of miura before which I liked a lot too, mainly doing vertical and overhang sport climb with some (minimal) cave bouldering.

What would you suggest?

Tysm

I've been climbing for 3 and a half years and recently had dragos and later skwamas but they both already got holes in the front of the rubber after only like 3-4 months, so im llooking for a shoe thats durable and preferably soft. what durable and soft shoe recs do yall have?

Hi,

I recently bought a pair of Evolv v6's half a size up from my street shoe. The fit is painful on my two smallest toes, I'm just wondering if this is a result of my sizing being too small, or if this is because of the shape and fit of Evolv more generally and they don't suit me.

Thanks

Just bought a pair on Unparallel Souped Up from Bananafingers, I've previously climbed in Scarpa Instinct VS and I remember the break in period was long and quite painful. Those were a size EU44 / US10.5. My street size is EU46 / US12.5, and I've read online the best thing for Unparallel if you want to size for performance is one size down, and have heard that Scarpa usually runs one size smaller compared to Unparallel, so I went with an EU45 / US11.5.

(Bananafingers' shoecalculator said to go down to 11.5 max)

I'm kinda surprised because on first impressions putting on the shoe, it fits kinda too perfectly? Doesn't hurt my feet to wear them at all. I feel like I could probably jam my foot into at least half a size smaller, maybe even a full size with plastic bags.

I'm a bit worried, because I've heard these shoes stretch quite a bit as the rubber is very soft (my first time owning soft shoes), and the heel feels a bit loose. Should I return them and downsize further?

hey ya’ll,

im looking to get a new pair of shoes, and im wondering what the consensus is on the finale.

i currently use the mad rock drone cs lv, and they are pretty good, but im kinda tired of only being able to use them for at most a 70ft lead before needing a decent break. i didnt even downsize, i had to actually go up in a size because they fit so poorly.

i want a shoe that can still edge well but isnt so stiff. im primarily a lead climbing both in the gym and outside, and would prefer to keep my shoes on for longer periods of time.

my only concern with them is their edging ability. i try to keep my footwork pretty precise, and i want a shoe that can help with that.

i might get the tc pros if they go on sale again, but my main appeal with the finales is the fact its not an outrageous price.

any reviews/thoughts? im open to other shoe suggestions as well, if anyone has some.

Been think getting a pair of acop climbing shoes. But there are like very very few information about acopa sizing on the internet. I am eyeing on the Acopa Gama. It seems Acopa climbing are generally wide toe box and narrow heel which is my foot shape? For sizing my street shoes size is 7-7.5, 37.7 on Skwama LV, 38 on instinct vs LV and 7 on Drone CS. Any advised for sizing or opinion of Acopa would be appreciated. Thank you!!

TL:DR okay so i have been climbing for about 6 months with a few week long breaks in between. i'm a very beginner, overweight, casual climber. i had a climbing friend go with me to REI the first time and i decided on the butora endeavor's. i purchased a half size down from my street size after a few try-on's because they gave me that "uncomfy" feeling. after 6 months of having toe pain from just two or three attempts and starting to notice little dents on my toes i decided i didn't want the pain anymore especially just to climb v0-1. i switched to an 8.5 in the same shoe after rei employee told me "these are our widest shoe..." first bouldering session with the new shoes and i realized i have so much room in the heel that when i come off the wall and hit the ground my heel makes a little noise as it gets back into the shoe. i can squeeze a good inch of my heel where theres only shoe as well.

basically i'm looking for a shoe rec for a wider toe box & slimmer heel?? or just any advice you may have. as a plus size climber i already feel a bit alienated at times but this shoe journey has made it so difficult for me to enjoy the beginner stages. i have pretty flat feet so i think thats where the "wide" comes in. i usually only have problems in the toe area with shoes & still can get away with not getting "wide" shoes unless they're heels. lmk if more info is needed i'm not sure how common this issue is haha.

So I’m on my second pair of miuras in 4 months, I have super wide feet and I love the way miuras feel on my feet. The first pairs bottom left strap ripped in half and i thought it was a problem with manufacturing but the same exact strap ripped on my new pair. So I’m just wondering if there’s a shoe that resembles the Miura with tougher straps maybe lol.

I have tried all the shoes available locally, so we’ve now reached the order, cry, and return portion of the shoe search. Advice from you fine internet strangers helps minimize the ordering and returning, if not the crying.

My main problem: a high volume heel.

Most shoes have tons of dead space in the heel and lots of Achilles pain and slippage because my heel just won’t go in. 10 pounds of heel in a five pound shoe. The absolute only heel that has fit me out of the box is the Scarpa Instinct VS. The LS finale fits after seriously disrespecting the shoe.

I’m looking for something soft and sensitive. Basically, Frankenstein the instinct heel onto the drago and I’m happy.

Scarpa categorizes its shoes by toe shape and width. Looks like I need the “classic” toe shape. But all their shoes with that shape are categorized as narrow. The instinct is medium with a “centre” toe shape, which my toes will just not abide.

I am grateful for any and all suggestions! Scarpa or otherwise. Save my mail person some steps.

I (26F) am looking to buy my first pair of indoor bouldering shoes.

I have a somewhat triangular foot shape, with a fairly wide forefoot, a relatively normal-width midfoot, and a narrow heel. I also have a bunion on my right foot (I had one on my left as well, but it was corrected surgically a few months ago). If possible, I’d like a shoe that can accommodate this, ideally with adjustable lacing or velcro near that area until I have surgery on my right foot.

For reference, I really like some of Altra’s running shoes—just to give an idea of what type of “regular” shoes fit my feet best.

I’ve looked into the following options, and ideally, I’d like to try them on before buying. However, I’m not sure if all of them are available in physical stores near me, so any help narrowing down these options would be greatly appreciated:

• Scarpa Women’s Veloce
• Scarpa Drago LV
• La Sportiva Women’s Tarantula Boulder
• La Sportiva Solution Comp

Other suggestions are welcome too! Thank you in advance!

I know this might be a weird question, but anyway.

I've been climbing for 3 years, mostly indoors (top rope and now learning to lead), a few times outdoors. On average, I climb twice a week - in the beginning I would go up to 4 times a week. I still wear the same climbing shoes I got when I started, and the soles have little sign of wear.

My footwork isn't very good, and everytime I ask more advanced climbers for advice, they say I need to work on it. I don't think my shoes are great and they are definitely a bit too large. I'm planning to buy some new ones, as maybe that would help on my footwork. But, for choosing my next pair, I'm trying to understand what exactly I don't like about mine. I'm leaning towards something with a softer sole because I think mine might be too stiff.

I always see people talking about having to resole their climbing shoes often, sometimes people say they have to buy new shoes after 6 months of use, and I just don't understand it. Is it about the kind of rubber on the soles? Maybe my shoes are similar to those made to be used as rentals, so the soles are made to last longer, even if they are not as good? Any ideas? Thanks!

EDIT: the shoes: https://www.auvieuxcampeur.fr/chausson-velcro-slam.html

grades: I climb around 6b (5.10c?)

added a pic - it seems the line between rand and sole is still straight on the toe area, unlike the pics of shoes I see when people are talking about resoling. Maybe I'm just not seeing the signs of wear? Am I not using my feet at all? lol I swear I never campus anything, I'm far from strong enough.

https://preview.redd.it/1bkrgac1u3yd1.jpg?width=3218&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b919c2747800707ebe0af438e250118daf9c4b9

I'm thinking of changing climbing shoes. Using EB Nebula at the moment but I'm not too satisfied with the way they age. For reference I'll usually go through a pair every 3 months while climbing 2 to 3 times a week (mostly indoor). I was wondering how Ocun and Unparallel shoes compare ? I've worn the Scarpa Drago in the past and they felt great but I find them expensive and they wear out fast too.

Also I used to wear the Team v2 by 5.10 and I loved those but they are not made anymore and I heard Unparallel might have the closest thing to them, but I'm not sure which model that would be.

Anyway I'll take any opinion on the subject, I just want shoes that don't disintegrate in a month and cost 150€...

Hey everyone! I’m looking for recommendations for intermediate to aggressive indoor climbing shoes that will fit my foot shape. I have a Greek-type left foot and a Roman-type right foot. I recently tried the Scarpa Instinct VSR in size 41.5 EU, but they were too painful—specifically, my left big toe was crammed at the tip, and on my right foot, my big toe and the last two toes were cramped on the sides. For context, my street shoe size is 42 EU. Interestingly, my friend, who has the same size, found them to be a perfect fit, which made me realize they're just not right for me.

I found the La Sportiva Tarantulace in size 41.5 to be perfect, so I know I need to look for something similar or better. I plan to try the Scarpa Instinct in size 42, or even 42.5 if needed, for a better fit.

I’ll be visiting a larger city soon with stores that carry Scarpa, Ocun, La Sportiva, Black Diamond, and potentially other brands. Please don’t limit your suggestions to just those brands! Given my foot shape and past experience with the Scarpas, what do you recommend? I’d love any suggestions before I go. Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/ycm1e8j8jrxd1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b60c64b3b2cc6e4d3c6aff93aa695346889d85a2

https://preview.redd.it/qb5shy09jrxd1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6eafc804daa4ee39e3e2552612f5dc90c38da791

Second attempt at posting, looks like i made a mistake with including text

New boulderer. Started using these shoes about 1,5 month ago climbing about 2 times a week. One shoe is showing wear as shown in the pictures. Is this “normal” or a result of (lack of) adequate footwork?

They weren´t the most expensive, but if it is because of bad technique, I would rather fix it now than also ruin more expensive shoes later on. Thanks in advance!

Hi, looking for some new shoes as I want to step away from trying to massively downsize into incredibly soft, down-turned shoes in order to save my toes a little (I will likely never climb to such a level that the shoe will be my limiting factor, so may as well be more comfortable while I'm climbing).

Foot Shape:

• Egyptian, medium-narrow feet, skinny heels (270mm length + 240mm width, UK 8.5/EU42).

Usage:

• Indoor bouldering (v4-v6 level), occasional (~1-2/month) outdoor use (gritstone).

Requirements:

• Would prefer if it was vegan.
• Soft-medium stiffness (i.e. slightly stiffer than a drago/bullit, less stiff than phantom/booster)
• Slight downturn (i.e. nothing incredibly aggressive; I don't really climb overhangs enough to warrant the specialization, more vertical/slab so should perform well on those.

Current Shoes:

• Ocun Bullit (EU43): These fit pretty well bit have some deadspace at side of heel. However, are a bit too soft/aggressive for my tastes; these give me pain in big toe knuckle after ~20m climbing (with shoe breaks) which lasts for a day or two - this is my main reason for wanting a new shoe.
• La Sportiva Finales (EU40): These fit incredibly well; no dead-space anywhere and only a small amount of toe-knuckle pain if I keep them on too long (like 1h). However, I find them a little too stiff to smear well, the rubber doesn't feel that sticky, and it lacks rubber on the top which makes toe hooks difficult.
• Evolv Zenist Pro (EU44): Only tried this in-store so haven't climbed in them. Really liked the stiffness/downturn level of these, however the big-toe pain was present while trying to flex the toes to imitate smearing, and I didn't want to up-size more as this the heel already had a good inch of dead-space around the bottom edge (probably because the heel bulges out on the shoe, and the heel cup is too deep for me), and the sides of the shoe also had dead-space. Maybe I need to try the low volume version? This might also just be a case of them not being broken in.
• Evolv V6 (EU44): Similar story to above; though the heel did feel a little better (still some dead-space though).

Thank you!

Hello, I just got the vsr s in 40.5, my foot id measured at a size 42. I also have the dragos in 40.5 and they fit like a glove, while the vsr s kind of hurt, will they get better after getting warmed up and some sessions in them after they stretch or should I return them ? Thanks !

Hey guys, I've been thinking about getting the Ondra Comps, I wear EUR 42 streetwear, and the only climbing shoes I have are the new Evolv Shaman Pro, size 42,5.

What size should I get for the Ondra Comps? Size EUR 41 safe or too big?

This question has been around for a while but I get the feeling a lot of people chime in who don't have hands-on experience. I'd like to hear from people above 100kg / 220lbs who boulder V5 and climb 6b (and up, of course). Which shoe really did it for you? I've loved my Mad Rock Drone HV but they're so done now the resoler won't take them anymore and I can't find another pair my size. Thank you!

Hi,

I bought a pair of EB Django 3 for a song as they were the last pair. They are well above my grade but I thought at the price they were I may as well and can work up to them. They are a 41. I wear a 42 street shoe, and my first pair of climbing shoes were a 41 1/2 (boreal joker - snug but not tight). The EBs are incredibly tight. Like I can only just get them on and i am worried that if I force them on more I won't be able to send them back.

My decision is whether to cut losses and send them back now (I got them yesterday and haven't done anything in them) or persevere. They were a bargain so it's not a huge loss of I keep them but is there any point?

I would really appreciate any experienced advice on this. Cheers.

Hello,

I have a small heel i would say. I used the Theory Women in EU39 with a street shoe size of EU42.

Now they are finished and i need a new pair.

I tried the evolv v6 lv in 42 and 41.5, nad the heel is way to beggy.

I tried skwama in 38 and mandala in 38.5 and they are both okay, so i have to decide between these 2 i guess. Or ist there andy other shoe i could try?

I'm looking for a comfortable moderate shoe with reasonable performance to use primarily for moderate bouldering in the gym. Unfortunately, most shoes don't seem to fit me very well. I'm looking for some suggestions of other shoes to try.

Requirements:

• Moderate downturn
• Reasonably sticky rubber. Something like Trax SaS, XS Grip or XS Grip 2 is fine but XS edge is too hard for my liking.

Some shoes that fit me well are Evolv Shamans, Scarpa Vapor Vs and Tenaya Arais. The main issue I have with the Vapor Vs is that they use XS Edge. The Arais have so little downturn that heel hooking performance isn't great on marginal chips. The Shamans are excellent but are more aggressive than I'm looking for now.

I've tried the following but they didn't fit me well enough. Scarpa Vapor S: Loose fit in heel Scarpa Quantic: Loose fit in heel Scarpa Arpia: Loose fit in heel Scarpa Instinct: Loose fit in heel Evolv Geshido: Loose fit in heel (these are also stiffer than I'd want) Evolv Kronos: Loose fit in heel La Sportiva Katana: toe box is too narrow and there is dead space above the toes Tenaya Ra: Loose fit in heel La Sportiva Muira VS: Some dead space above toes

I usually send my kids' and my shoes to Greater Tahoe Gripworks or Yosemite Bum, but the former no longer accepts shoes with holes in the rand (the kids don’t tell me the shoes need resole until too late), and the latter has a 4.5-week turnaround (which isn’t terrible, but not ideal).

Do you have a place you can recommend?

I’m in the DC area and occasionally go to NRG, though I’m obviously happy to ship shoes across the country.

Thanks in advance.

I'm writing this post to share my experience with these 2 shoes, since the info I found online didn't resemble my experience.

TL,DR: I would have sized my Lace's half a size bigger than the VS because the toe-box doesn't expand as much.

After firstly getting a used pair of Instinct's VS, they were fitting perfectly well for my wide foot (44,5 street wear, 43,5 climbing shoes) so I resoled them and they still have a comfy but performant feeling and they are definitely my go-to-shoe.

On the other hand, I was misled into getting my Lace's on the same size after reading some info online saying that they would fit very very similary. In my experience, the toebox doesn't stretch as much because it's covered in rubber, while the VS's have leather which is more flexible.

I got these instead of the VSR's because the rubber lasts longer and resoling where I live costs over half the shoe and I didn't want them to erode as fast. As for my toe knuckles, after 10 months of using them once or twice a week, I still suffer a bit in these shoes. The break in period took forever, at the beginning I could barely have them on and I'd say it took around 8 sessions to wear them without much pain. They still feel much tighter than the VS's, probably because the rubber is stiffer but the non-expansive toe-box really impacts its comfortness. They are great for edging and vertical walls and I still use them for single-pitch climbing, but looking back I would have gotten them half a size bigger and I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have affected my performance.

For reference I climb 7a/5.11c outdoors in case it changes anything for you.

I went bouldering inddor a couple times and I wanna move from rental shoes. I am somewhere between a V3 and a V4 (6b). My biggest priority is comfort and I have very wide feet. I dont have the option to try any of them. I wonder which I should choose, any tips?

Went to Madrock HQ yesterday to find climbing shoes that fit my tiny feet. They were very kind and pulled out pretty much everything in a small size, including demo shoes that have been discontinued. Alas, everything was either too big or way too tight in the toes with big air gaps in the heel. I am grateful that I was able to try on so many pairs—I don’t think any of the brick-and-mortar stores regularly stocks my size, so I don’t even get a chance to sit down and try them on except when I’m lucky and REI re/supply has a few pairs.

I tried on every left shoe in the photo that’s not on the racks, plus a few others. The boxes are all of their smaller (roughly eu 36 and below) demo shoes.

On the bright side, my partner got some Drones 2.

If you’re in the LA area and looking for shoes, it’s worth checking them out.

I'm looking for something that would suit my level of climbing/next step up, probably a stiffer shoe than my dragos I think, but even after googling I'm still somewhat clueless. I'll go to a shop and try some shoes but it would be nice to have some suggestions and an idea of what might work beforehand.

I'm climbing V4-V5 regularly and some V6s (in a gym) and on rope, sport climbing, currently my limit is leading 6b (5.10c) ish in the gym and 6a or so outdoors.

I've got a Greek shape foot and wear drago LV 41.5 which are comfy most of the time but do squeeze my big to a bit after an hour or so. Beyond that tightness, I'm pretty happy with the dragos. Been climbing about 2 years and am in the gym bouldering two or three times a week, on rope in the gym once a week and I imagine unlikely to do a lot of outdoor stuff in the next few months (winter in the UK).

Hi! I feel so lucky to have found this group!

I’ve been researching climbing shoes for a while now, and I’d love to share my thoughts and questions with all of you! It hasn’t even been a year since I started climbing, and it’s already become my greatest passion. My first pair of climbing shoes were the La Sportiva Tarantula, and I was really happy with them for starting out. (By the way, I’m a girl with very narrow, long feet).

Now I find myself in the following situation: I’m climbing 6C routes and doing both bouldering and rock climbing. I need climbing shoes for an intermediate level that allow me to push harder. Here’s what I’ve come to: I want a pair for rock climbing, comfortable and with laces, so I’ve decided to go with the La Sportiva Finale (I highly recommend them, super comfortable!). I also want another pair for bouldering, and here’s where my big dilemma comes in! I’m looking for shoes with a rubber toe and ones that will fit my narrow feet well. After a lot of research, here are the models I’m considering, but I’d love to hear your opinions:

Ocun Striker LU
La Sportiva Kubo W

Thanks a lot! :-)