/r/tradclimbing

Photograph via snooOG

Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. it's dangerous.

Welcome to /r/TradClimbing! Any and all discussion of trad, aid, and big wall climbing is welcome here! Answers to a lot of common questions can be found in the FAQ, so feel free to check that out before posting. Also, please read the guidelines before posting!

Guidelines

  1. Safety First. Don't post things you aren't certain of, especially with regards to safety. On the flip side, be cautious and keep yourself safe above all else. Don't haphazardly trust information from the web.

  2. When referencing a specific climb, please link to the climb's Mountain Project page!

  3. Be cool. /r/TradClimbing was created to be a welcoming environment for all, and to harbor good discussion.

Questions about Trad Climbing? Check out our FAQ!

Other climbing subreddits:

r/Climbing
r/Bouldering
r/IceClimbing
r/ClimbHarder
r/ClimbingPhotography
r/ClimberGirls
r/Alpinism

Climbing Gear Recall Information

Simond Rock Carabiners - PDF Nov 2013
WildCountry Rocks - July 2013
GriGri 2 - June 2011

Useful Websites:

Mountain Project
Super Topo
Outdoor Gear Lab

/r/tradclimbing

22,330 Subscribers

18

Name that tower

12 Comments
2024/11/02
02:14 UTC

1

Tips of courses and guides on Arenales - Argentina?

0 Comments
2024/11/02
00:34 UTC

1

Top Rope Accessible Climbs J-Tree

Looking for climbs in the Indian Cove area where I can set up TR solos. Pixie Rock has a bunch but are there others? Doesn’t need to have bolts, just access to the top.

3 Comments
2024/11/02
00:06 UTC

0

Source for this pattern ?

I have been trying to find a pattern like this online for hours and all I really keep finding is swiss seat instructions. Does anyone know what this pattern is called and/or where I can find this pattern? Any input is appreciated.

11 Comments
2024/11/01
22:11 UTC

5

Can two of these be used to TR solo?

20 Comments
2024/10/30
21:59 UTC

6

How do you buy trad gear?

Iv been climbing for a few years and have got quite into trad climbing but don't have any gear for myself (iv just been stealing my friends rack) and I am looking at getting my own stuff. The problem is I have only ever bought full price gear from shops but I have been told you can get stuff cheaper online. Does anyone have any recommendations for websites that sell climbing gear that do good deals. (I'm in the UK)

37 Comments
2024/10/30
12:08 UTC

340

Me racking up to onsight a 15m route. You know, "just in case" I need that piece...

27 Comments
2024/10/30
10:47 UTC

0

Alpine clubs

0 Comments
2024/10/30
07:13 UTC

90

Hangin out on a classic

Rock Wars, Long Wall, RRG

11 Comments
2024/10/30
06:36 UTC

4

Uk to the usa

Any advice for a solo trip for a brit to the big old US? Wanting to visit the creek and yosemite. And have no idea how to start planing.

13 Comments
2024/10/29
21:00 UTC

5

Need Form Responses in Relation to Rope Use

For our high school Capstone Project, we are required to engineer a device that could help solve an issue that many people encounter (Me and my Team are in a STEM Academy, hence the Capstone Project needing to be related to engineering). Our team have decided to make a device that could help to more efficiently and cost effective solution to clean rope as research has shown that dirty rope can be weakened by up to 30%, we would really appreciate it if people could fill our form as we need survey response to get an idea about how impactful our product could potentially be that would be greatly appreciated.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdd1sGDmNUuz4WSae17u4uFL6ShPLzMv8A1jv92B95qJeRCgQ/viewform?usp=sharing

21 Comments
2024/10/29
20:26 UTC

89

First Year Rack

This was my first summer trad climbing. I live in Laramie and caught the Vedauwoo bug hard. I’ve led maybe 10-15 routes so far. If anyone has opinions on what direction to go for wide gear (big cams/BBs/etc) please share :)

54 Comments
2024/10/29
16:01 UTC

8

Offwidth in New England

I’m a newer Trad climber in New England looking for an excuse to buy a #5 or #6 cam.

What are some approachable, easier, and fun offwidth routes in the area I can practice technique on?

40 Comments
2024/10/28
20:43 UTC

2

Cam recommendations

I’m a new trad leader and got an awesome deal on some lightly used Metolius Master Cams, #2-8, with doubles from #2-5 (so two yellow, two orange, two red, two black, one green, one light blue, and one purple).

What else would you buy to start filling out a double rack? I was considering more Master Cams, but one of my climbing partners is adamant that I should be buying double-axle cams instead for their greater range. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I also know that I need some smaller sizes, especially after borrowing some smaller Totems and seeing how versatile they are. What are your favorites? I’ve heard the smaller Master Cams get stuck very easily because of their smaller range, so I was looking at other brands, but open to any suggestions.

For context, I mainly climb on granite and limestone in the Southwest, US.

21 Comments
2024/10/28
18:49 UTC

42

How to climb flaring off-width on slab?

47 Comments
2024/10/27
22:25 UTC

17

Climbing bag recommendations

I’m looking for a climbing backpack with the following specs:

•	Capacity: roughly 45L to hold trad gear and rope
•	Features: Hydration sleeve or side pockets
•	Access: Back panel access

I’m considering the Mammut Neon 45, Patagonia Cragsmith 45, and Osprey Zealot 45. Any other recommendations? Thanks!

38 Comments
2024/10/25
22:30 UTC

3

Rope advice

I’m slowly building my Trad rack, for mainly UK climbing. I’m now looking at buying some half ropes. It’s my first set of half’s, and I’m slightly concerned about going too skinny from the point of view of feeling confident with my Son controlling the rope.

Currently two options I like the look of are the triple rated Beal ropes, either the joker (9.1mm) or the opera (8.5mm). I’m likely to use them almost exclusively for trad as a pair, but may on European trips bring the pair but use just one for multipitch sport. Has anyone used both, which one would you go for??

23 Comments
2024/10/25
07:26 UTC

7

Looking for beginner climbs in J Tree

A buddy of mine and I are new to Trad and are planning a Joshua Tree trip in a couple weeks 

Looking for some easy but fun climbs that have anchors and easy gear placement 

Also if anyone has any ideas of gear we must bring that would also be super helpful! 

Thanks!!

56 Comments
2024/10/24
19:51 UTC

7

Monthly Trad Climber Thread

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE

Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?"

Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts

Ask away!

58 Comments
2024/10/23
21:35 UTC

10

Starter rack for Aid?

I’ve got BD ultralight cams from size 1.75-5 but want to expand. How many more should I buy before I attempt some easy A0-A2 routes. I got plenty of passive gear just thinking about cams now.

17 Comments
2024/10/23
04:16 UTC

26

Looking For Partners In Red Rock Canyon NV

3 Comments
2024/10/22
01:46 UTC

78

Rate my…topout?

https://imgur.com/a/0MOtbcI

Sharing some October stoke from the home crag - p2 of this 5.9+ Seneca classic, Bring On The Nubiles, gets burly straight away in a thin crack system hundreds of feet off the valley floor, stays on you with some wildly committing and surprisingly thin crux sequences above gear, and ends in “wtf have I been climbing this whole time???”

A true old school “5.9 plus what?” lol. Trad climbing is so weird. Happy fall, y’all!

4 Comments
2024/10/21
23:47 UTC

2

Weekly Trad Climber Thread

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE

Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?"

Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts

Ask away!

4 Comments
2024/10/20
22:00 UTC

2

Help me thin the herd (my rack)

I went kinda nuts on buying cams and have ended up with way too many, and am unsure on what to keep, so I am asking for advice on which I should toss to the wind.

Current rack:

BD

X4 0.1

C3 #1

C3 #2

C4 0.3

X4 0.4

C4 doubles 0.4-3 (except 0.75)

C4 Ultralight 0.5-2

C4 #4

Totem
Blue-Orange

In summary: I have triples in BD size 0.3, 0.4, 0.75, 1, and 2 as well as quads in 0.5 and 1. I only want a double rack. I will be keeping at least the blue, yellow, and purple totems.

Some considerations:

  1. Money is important. I would like to keep all of the totems, but have heard that red, orange and green are not much better than equivalent C4s, so those are on the chopping block.

  2. The ultralights are beat up. Nothing safety-threatening, but they have significantly more wear than the regular C4s and need to be reslung, which the regular C4s have been recently. I have heard some things about their durability as compared to regular C4s as well. They are from 2018.

  3. I climb in the PNW and Squamish, mostly.

TLDR what this boils down to is beat-up ultralights vs decent-condition C4s, and how many totems to keep. Also X4 vs. C4 in 0.4.

Any input is appreciated, thanks!

20 Comments
2024/10/17
00:52 UTC

11

silly question

Hello everyone, I came to ask if it is interesting to have 2 sets of climbing nuts. I normally climb with a “set” of cams and 0.4-4, a set of aliens and a set of wild country 1-10 nuts. The thing is that I have been given a size 7 DMM nut and something inside me stirs up having it alone and different, but buying the rest of the set just to have them to match seems silly to me. Do you take advantage of carrying 2 sets of nuts and in what situations?

36 Comments
2024/10/16
08:58 UTC

38

What happened to Climbing Technology cams??

I just bought a CT #4 because I needed a C4 #1 and they were sold out everywhere where I live. We compared the size in the shop and that was the closer they had (pictured above). Even it was a different colour, I color-coded it with a red biner so I don't mistake it at first glance while climbing. When at home, I tried to find some info about those, and I couldn't find anything!! They also seem discontinued in the CT website. Any info?? Maybe any italian folks who may be more familiar?

9 Comments
2024/10/15
23:40 UTC

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