/r/bouldering

Photograph via //r/bouldering

Cordless and proud.


/r/Bouldering Rules:

(breaking these rules mean that your post or comments may be removed. Look for flair or a moderator comment if this happens)

1. Be cool. This means dont be a jerk. Be polite in the comments please.
2. Memes belong on /r/climbingcirclejerk
3. No Grades in titles or descriptions (Indoor bouldering related posts only)
4. No shoe posts (check out /r/climbingshoes)
5. Do your homework before asking obvious or common questions. Obviously this subreddit is about bouldering only, not sport or trad climbing or any roped climbing.

Stuff you might like to check out:

History of the Weekly Bouldering Advice Thread

Bouldering Grade Guide


Climbing Reddits

Bouldering related subreddits

Banner Photo contributed by /u/Phat_Duck

/r/bouldering

429,775 Subscribers

1

Compression Fracture Question

I got my first injury bouldering so forgive me if my question is considered “common sense” but essentially I slipped and fell the wrong way bouldering and suffered a T11 Spinal fracture or compression fracture and was curious if anyone here has recovered from this kind of injury. If so, my question is were you able to easily begin climbing again after recovering? Are you able to jump down after completing a route without risking injury or have you had to climb down to avoid it going forward? Basically were you able to climb as you did before the injury or did it affect you physical capabilities going forward? (I only jump down from the top when ive pushed myself or noticed at that point I’ve exerted my strength but I typically try to climb down- I know its best to climb down but just curious how cautious, if at all do you have to be after recovering from a spine fracture. I would greatly appreciate input and insight Thanks!

1 Comment
2024/12/02
09:01 UTC

4

More insane Japanese routesetting

1 Comment
2024/12/02
06:20 UTC

24

Closest quality climbing to home/ how far do travel for a quality outdoor climb?

Curious what type of goods you got close to home?? One off cliff, route, boulder, or a whole load of high quality climbing you could spend a lifetime exploring?? How close is close? And I guess, subsequently how far do you need to go for the closest quality climbing?

Featured is a clip from my closest quality climb…sub 2 miles from the doorstep. The moves are challenging, unique, and fun, and the access so easy/ close, that I make it here pretty often. Can’t beat the ‘quick hit’ sometimes :)

46 Comments
2024/12/02
04:34 UTC

2

Some of todays sends

Finally ticked all the climbs under v2 at this little spot in Nashville, TN called toxic wall. I know it isn’t high grade climbing but some of these felt impossible for me at one time or too long ago and today I managed to get them all.

1 Comment
2024/12/02
02:37 UTC

7

Upcoming AMA - KAYA App Team - 12 Hour Warning

Upcoming AMA - KAYA, Dec 2-3

Hey all, we've arranged for KAYA to participate in an AMA early next week. A few of their staff lurk here on the regular, but this will allow a focused conversation.


Who and what is KAYA?

KAYA is an app for climbers, indoor and out, to find problems, track progress, connect with friends, and share beta. Two years ago they launched their first digital bouldering guide in Joe's Valley, written by Steven Jeffery. Since, they have hosted guides from over 50 authors across North America.

KAYA is comprised of 5 climbers, all with over a decade of time spent on rock.

You can learn more by visiting their website: kayaclimb.com or instagram: instagram.com/kayaclimb


You can leave some questions here, but I will have to move them over manually day of so I strongly prefer you wait until the official thread opens

Who else do you want to hear from? Who else wants to volunteer?I've got a few in mind that I may send feelers out to, persons and businesses I've worked with There are at least 4 V15 crushers that comment here semi-regularly.

1 Comment
2024/12/02
01:53 UTC

8

Any tip?

1 week trying this, and this it’s the furthest I've come

8 Comments
2024/12/02
01:44 UTC

1

Progress!

hey everyone, this is my first black i hit last week on my third attempt, feels pretty clean and honestly easier than some purples i have done at this gym.

even though it was definitely a softer black than others still found it quite difficult (thought i was gonna flash this😂) but any advice on body movement or position would mean a lot here, thanks!

7 Comments
2024/12/02
01:17 UTC

44

Worked on this one for weeks and got the 1st send on film

8 Comments
2024/12/02
00:20 UTC

5

Developing and climbing new boulders in Huntsville Alabama

1 Comment
2024/12/01
23:52 UTC

497

I am campus guy AMA

I saw a post a while back spreading some alternative facts about me being a gymnast and so I want to clear things up…

  1. Have never done gymnastics, only rocks
  2. Started at 12, am 22 now
  3. Used to compete but no longer, I now work a office job and climb on weekends

Please AMA and hope y’all had a happy Thanksgiving

90 Comments
2024/12/01
22:09 UTC

0

chalk bag recs?

My boyfriend has gotten really into bouldering these past few months. He’s been sharing a chalk bag with his friends and I want to get him one for xmas. His friend said the bigger chalk bag is more for bouldering although i’d like to hear recommendations or suggestions :) thank you

13 Comments
2024/12/01
20:27 UTC

0

Is it worth it to replace one indoor training day for outdoors?

So for context, I'm a 6C climber indoors and I really want to improve and more specifically I've set an arbitrary benchmark for myself to reach 7B outdoors in the next 2 or 3 years. I climb 3 times a week, 3hours/session and over all I've been climbing for a year, although until 2 months ago I as only climbing twice a week for 1hour/session.

Generally, I think I really lack in footwork and I also want to improve my overall technique. Strength wise, I'd say I'm at an alright level.

I live in an area with many many boulders available within a 30 minute drive.Will it benefit me? Or should I keep my schedule how it is?

11 Comments
2024/12/01
15:41 UTC

9

What are your weaknesses and what if anything are you doing to work on them?

Just wondering if people have identified their weaknesses what they are and then whether you are intentionally working on them and how. Partly just out of interest and partly for inspiration.

Also how you identified them out of interest.

I think my biggest issues are fear, not fully committing when I've already decided something won't work and a tendency to give up. But these are all mental issues I'm not really sure how to identify physical strength or technique issues.

42 Comments
2024/12/01
11:34 UTC

0

first crash pad advice for a brokie

hey, was perusing the backcountry 25% sale for a starter crash pad and was basically wondering if there was any major differences between the majority of $200 pads - mad rock mad pad, metolius session 2, black diamond circuit. for an indoor v4-6/first time outdoor climber, is there anything I should be looking out for? unfortunately too broke rn to spring for anything too exp.

also, anyone heard of the trango cumulus? nothing on the subreddit about it but looks solid, and I like the idea that it seems a little lighter whilst being a touch thicker (4.3 in vs 4) than most of the $200s

7 Comments
2024/12/01
10:52 UTC

0

Sydney Climbing Gym Recommendations

Hello All,

My mate and I want to travel to Syd for a bit of a climb day. I was wondering if there are any gyms which grade using the V scale? Since our local gyms use a 1-10 scale, it would be nice to see how we compare to the wider climbing community. Cheers!

I couldn't be more specific in my title due to AutoMod, but we are specifically after gyms which use the V scale.

18 Comments
2024/12/01
10:37 UTC

91

An absolutely diabolical heel hook

22 Comments
2024/12/01
04:10 UTC

33

Love the climb, hate the holds

5 Comments
2024/12/01
03:53 UTC

97

5/10 physical therapy patients are from the same gym red flag?

So I switched to Vital Brooklyn for few months and went to a physical therapy near by the gym for my old injury . I chatted with the doctor and he mention 5/10 patients came from vital and three of my friends who switched to Vital were also injured recently. Yes, I understand it could be just the gym is near by the clinic. Could it be coincidence or red flag?

64 Comments
2024/12/01
02:52 UTC

0

How to strengthen smearing muscles?

I used to be able to smear a lot before but ever since then, I've gained 33 lbs / 15 kgs because I'm on a controlled bulk.

Unfortunately, I've lost the ability to effectively smear on walls as I'm way to heavy to keep myself on and walk up. It's a genuine struggle to create the tension I need to smear up.

Any exercises I could do at my regular gym session? Any specific muscles I should train?

6 Comments
2024/12/01
01:52 UTC

0

Weight belt to take load off back?

Anyone ever use a weight lifting or safety belt (e.g. warehouse worker) during bouldering? I have a bad lower back and on some moves it feels like a limiting factor, so have been wondering if this would help.

(not talking about a weight_ed_ belt or vest BTW)

15 Comments
2024/12/01
00:02 UTC

24

Climb in, climb out. 🙃

Fun little contrived cave line reversing one, bank out another… cool moves are cool moves, I try not to be limited by purity of climbing lines haha 😂

10 Comments
2024/11/30
23:05 UTC

1

Illustrating some guides

Hey mind hive, looking for some ideas on what to illustrate. I like doing funny guides for climbing things.

What are somethings in bouldering or sport climbing that could do with a funny guide?

As an example I’m currently doing a little guide on transitioning from the gym to outdoors.

4 Comments
2024/11/30
20:37 UTC

134

Jumping off indoor boulders

Genuine question - why do so many people just jump from the top of a boulder after sending it instead of downclimbing the boulder or using downclimb holds?

I wince each time I see it, especially when it's a direct land on the feet instead of using that force to roll back. Not only is there chance for immediate injury, the body is not going to be able to handle that in the long term.

No shade. Just genuinely curious. Happy climbing!

188 Comments
2024/11/30
20:21 UTC

177

bouldering is the fastest and funnest way i’ve ever gained strength!!

i recently just started rock climbing and it is one of the most fun things i’ve ever done. along with it being fun i have gained insane ammount of strength and resilience in very little time. i’ve only been 5 times over the last month and im already back to having solid strength and toning my muscles after taking a 3 month break from the gym. after the first time i was insanely sore, now after this last trip i hardly feel it.

but i honestly dread going to the gym now, it’s not as fun as it used to be. most people at commercial gyms are just “normal” and the whole consumer environment isn’t my thing. when i go bouldering at my local facility it feels like everyone there is on the same vibe just enjoying the boulder problems and chatting about the sport.

i got a great black friday deal for 3 months and now i can go whenever i want. it’s almost addicting like i just went yesterday and i already want to go again today. i really didn’t think i would enjoy bouldering this much, ever since i saw pewdiepie start bouldering i realized it would probably be pretty cool but no idea it would be this cool.

anyone had similar feelings when starting out?

23 Comments
2024/11/30
18:27 UTC

0

i made a video on climbing flow! 🐳

17 Comments
2024/11/30
14:43 UTC

0

Weird hamstring heel hook injury

I was pulling super hard on a right heel hook to top a boulder a month ago. I managed to top the boulder but got a super strong cramp in my right calf that i had to stretch out while hanging on the top hold before dropping down. Ever since then the part of the hamstring that connects to the back of the knee feels "weak" in a way. It doesn't hurt, it's just uncomfortable, and i didn't feel anything pop when it happened. I can only feel the injury when the hamstring activates in any way, especially when climbing overhang.

I've never experienced something like this and i would love some input about how to proceed. I'm guessing it's a small strain on the tendon that connects behind the knee. Is the procedure the same as with any tendon injury? Just keep loading as long as it doesn't hurt to increase blood flow to the area? Up until now i've just tried to avoid putting strain on it at all to see if it goes away, but it doesn't seem like it has helped.

Thanks.

10 Comments
2024/11/30
13:59 UTC

32

Do you have any advice on what to do next here? Somehow I can’t figure it out

28 Comments
2024/11/30
12:53 UTC

9

A nice slab on volumes from a new gym I went to a few weeks ago

Bit scary to trust feet that high up the wall, and the volume for your hands is NOT GOOD.

6 Comments
2024/11/30
11:10 UTC

0

Please help rehab A2 pulley injury

Late May, I tore my A2 pulley.

I rested it for month 1 and 2 and did not do any exercises that would strain it. Month 3 I started getting back into rehab and lighter exercises, but I really did not feel any improvement or healing. It was still painful to hang from a bar with my feet on the floor. So I mainly rested month 4 and 5, with only occasional easy exercises/light climbing. This is now month 6 and I still feel the same pain when doing a hang from a bar.

I'm not really sure what I should be doing at this point as it has been 6 months and it still does not feel very (if at all) improved.

I never got an MRI when I initially went to an orthopedic doctor since they confirmed it was a pulley injury via manual tests and I didn't see a point in burning $500 to confirm what I already know. I think its time to revisit professional help, so if anyone in the Orange County, CA area has any recommendations on doctors/professionals to see, that would be really helpful.

Any general tips/information is also really greatly appreciated, especially if you have went through something similar (or know someone who has).

5 Comments
2024/11/30
10:23 UTC

1

Chalk bag

Hello i bought my 2nd chalk bag and i notice it has some spots where air/condense can go into my bag. Now i leave my chalk bag in my car 24/7 will it reduce the quality of the chalk a lot or not noticeable?

4 Comments
2024/11/30
10:01 UTC

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