This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

The /r/climbharder Master Sticky. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions.

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

Hi! When do you schedule your technique-focused drills in your week?

Right now my schedule (3 days a week in the gym) is:

• Session 1: Power session. Warm-up, power/limit, warm down. I follow Steve Bechtel's structure. 2h max

• Session 2: PE session. Warm up, repeaters, boulder triples, technique drills, warm down. 4h+ in total.

• Session 3: projecting / social session. This one is less precisely scheduled. I warm-up, climb hard stuff I want to top, don't use any timers and open myself up to meeting people more. Then I warm down. 2 to 4h

I like to think that I focus on technique during my warm-up, but the truth is it's probably not highly-focused time. That leaves me with only the 1h technique module during my PE session, which is very much fatigued training as it's on the tail end of the day. There I rotate in a list of 20min modules that include everything from piano match to flags, back steps, glue holds, etc etc based on Power Company Climbing's drills.
I was reviewing footage I recorded of it yesterday. It's not terribly bad, but I'd like to aim for better quality in technique-oriented training. My glue holds weren't that sticky, and the tail end of my flag module was a lot of flailing.

Question 1: should I move that module before boulder triples? Elsewhere?
Question 2: what are you best tips for focusing on technique during your warm up? Do you stick to a single drill (glue holds, silent feet, hover, something else) or switch drills? In between sessions? In-between climbs?

Hi! I'm a young woman who has been climbing for 3 years now! I do some running n yoga along side too, and my hunger naturally comes in waves but Unfortunately my period has became intermittent in this time too. In the past few months I believe I may have been underfueling (I keep an eye on protein intake but don't calorie track as I don't believe that to be a good idea for me).

I've definitely been putting on muscle mass recently, which I'm happy about, and I've recently switched from a bouldering to a sport centre, which apppears to have correlated with my appetite sky rocketing. I'm trying my best to respect my hunger cues, but I've actually struggled with restrictive eating in the past few months so it feels a little 'unnatural' for lack of a better word. I know this is relatively common in the climbing community, but the thing is, I know I don't really want to lost weight or believe it'd benefit me at the weight I am! It's just an impulse. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? any advice on understanding food intake without getting into calories counting and all that stuff.

Thanks for all your time :))

TLDR: Suddenly very hungry, is it because of sport climbing / muscle gain, any advice / shared experiences?

Edit: Hi, thanks for all your responses, I appreciate it. It helps confirm what I thought about missing my period, I want it back! I heard the dietician recommendations but unfortunately I'm not in a position to have one, however I'm planning on booking a doctor's appointment to check things out. The period situation has been on/off since Jan so I know, it's definitely time. I always ensure rest days every 2/3 days inbetween training, but I'm going to work again on snacking more and upping portion sizes. I find it difficult when my hunger cues diminish somedays. I am already mindful of protein intake so I think it's broadly portion size (and more carbs!!) I'll work on for now. Ik EDs can be common in climbing so don't ideally want to get too caught up in the numbers of tracking all this. Thanks again for your help, and as a bit of reassurance, I am getting no adverse health effects apart from period disappearance at the moment..

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

Hello all,

I am a M16, and have been climbing for around 4 years, 2 of which were solely focused on training for comps and not recreational climbing. I climb around V9 and lead 12a/b. I am looking for a way to build better technique. My climbing coaches often tell me I have all the power I need to climb whatever I want and should focus on building technique. Often they suggest I just try to be more methodical about where/how I am moving. For the past year I've been focusing on exactly this and haven't seen much improvement in my technique. I have also been recovering from torn pulleys here and there (growth plates all closed, I'm just tearing through the pulleys). I've done the 9c test and it claims I have the power to climb 8b+. Keep in mind I am 16 years old, 74" tall, 173lbs, and ape index of +4.

• Finger strength: 153 additional lbs (190% BW) on 20 mm - 8 points
• Pullups: 125 additional lbs (173% BW) on bar - 7 points
• Core strength: 20 sec L Sit - 6 points
• Hang from bar: 3.5 min - 7 points

28 points = 8b+ or V14

The strengthclimbing.com Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0 claims I have the strength to climb 8c or V15.

• Mode 3 (random hangboarding)
• one arm hang on 21mm for 15 secs
• one rep max 125lbs pullup on bar

My climbing is super dependant on my strength, I can do one arm pullups and pull BW on a 10mm incut edge. My max reps for pullups are aound 25/26 shoulders to bar.

Both of these calculators are assuming I have perfect technique, which I most definitely do not have. I really want to take a leap in my climbing and build more technique to get into those higher grades. I tend to boulder in the summer and fall and sport climb during the winter, the spring is mixed. As far as hangboarding goes, last year I trained on the Beastmaker 2000 2-3 times a week for PT, this year the number has gone down to 1-2 times every few weeks. Areas I could work on are slab, balance (shifting my weight over holds), not squezing as hard (I want to be aware on how I can use the hold in a diffrent position to make it better), footwork, and small box. I excell on overhang, squeezing tension, pinches, and big spans. I find Bouldering byfar more enjoyable than ropes.

I want to reduce my injuries and gain my much needed technique to advance into those higher grades. What are y'all's thoughts? Thank you so much guys.

Me: 29M, 6' 180lb, climbing on and off (~ 60% on / 40% off) for ~7 years

Current shape: V5-V7 on commercial boulders, haven't been outside in a year but several (>10) outdoor sends of V4-V5, 3 sends at V6.

Goals: 5 sends in the V6-V8 range outside by the end of 2024 (most high-end projecting will be in the Fall when conditions are best here). Long term goal is to feel solid in this range, like I can go on a trip and project a V8 without it feeling like a waste of time.

Strengths: Pull-up strength, pinches/slopers, compression, heel hooks, lack of fear (this sometimes gets me hurt so also a weakness)

Weaknesses: Footwork, finger strength (I think, let me know though), hip and ankle mobility.

Current finger strength: I use the 20mm edge on the tension block, and do either repeaters or max hangs on the days where I need to miss a climbing session. For repeaters I usually do 5 x 1min (7s on / 3s off) @ 50-60lb. For max hangs I do 4-5 x 10s @ 110lb. If I can do 110 each hand I guess this would translate to hanging 220lb (BW + 40lb, or ~120% BW), not sure if it works like that though.

Current schedule:

Mon - Boulder

Tues - Strength #1

Wed - Off

Thurs - Boulder

Fri - Strength #2

Sat - Off

Sun - Boulder (some weeks I climb Saturday off Sunday)

Daily - 5-10min of shoulder mobility band work, 15min of hip mobility stretching (I do this religiously, around 350 days out of the year)

Bouldering sessions are pretty unstructured, just warm up, try climbs that look fun at project level, then if I'm getting punted on those drop closer to flash grade toward the end of the session. Generally spend most of my session working climbs that take me 2-4 sessions to send (usually V6 or V7), and if I feel fatigued I switch to trying to flash new V4/V5s (usually done within a few goes if not flashed).

New plan:

Finger strength: gradually add Max Hang sets to strength training days. Eventually hope to be doing 4-5x10s max hangs at the beginning of strength sessions.

Technique: The first bouldering day will be technique focused, climbing flash grade or lower, working on slab, foot placement drills, hover-hand drills, etc (any recommendations on drills or formats for these kinds of sessions would be appreciated). The second bouldering day will be limit bouldering - trying really hard boulders, even single moves, with a lot of rest between attempts. Also planning to film/analyze attempts to understand why I'm failing, and analyze why stronger climbers send climbs I fail on.

Outdoor climbing: I'm hoping to get outside once every two weeks when the weather is good. If I can't get outside the weekend day can be another climbing day (or rest day if needed while transitioning). Open to suggestions about what to do with this third climbing day if it needs to be indoors; would board climbing be useful? My gym only has a moon board, no tension / kilter or spray wall. Outdoor days in the Spring/Summer (usually not great conditions) will be focused more on volume and getting used to rock, then in the Fall will be focused on projecting harder climbs)

Hip mobility: This plan is focused on finger strength and technique mostly because they seem more trainable than hip mobility. With the daily 15min stretching my hip mobility has improved a lot (I mean A LOT), but still is lacking compared to many climbers at or above my level. I've tried doubling it (15min morning + 15min evening) for a few weeks but the gains are minimal and I feel I'm near my genetic flexibility ceiling. Happy to be wrong about this if anyone has suggestions though (currently I spend the 15min doing a variety of static stretches held for 30s-1min each, targeting inner and outer hips: elevated pigeon, side lunges, split, deep squat, frog pose, etc.)

New Schedule:

Mon - Bouldering (technique focused)

Tues - Max Hangs + Strength # 1

Wed - Off

Thur - Limit bouldering

Fri - Max Hangs + Strength # 2

Sat - Off

Sun - Climb (outside every other week; board climb on indoor days?)

Also, here is what the strength days look like, I added the weights I did last week for my current fitness level. (To get ahead of this: I don't plan on reducing/changing this too much; the strength I've built in these movements are things I want to improve or maintain for reasons independent of climbing goals)

Strength #1:

OA pullup (assisted) (2-4) - 2 x Red, 3 x Purple, 4 x Blue (sorry I don't know how much these resistance bands take off, should probably switch to pulley system to measure progress better)

Dips (4-6) - 5 x +70lb, 6 x +45lb, 7 x +25lb

Pistol Squats (3-5) - 4 x +45lb, 5 x +20lb, 6 x BW

Strength #2:

Chin-ups (3-5) - 5 x +85lb, 6 x +60lb, 7 x +35lb

Incline bench (4-6) - 4 x 155lb, 5 x 145lb, 6 x 135lb

Inclined single-leg calf raises (6-8) - 8 x +20, 8 x BW, 8 x BW

The training scheme is reverse-pyramid training (Martin Berkhan inspired). Every set is as many reps as possible, always starting with the heaviest weight (excluding warmups, which are 2-3 sets x 3-5 reps of 40-60% starting weight). Load is reduced 5-10% each set (which typically should gain 1 more rep). Once the top of the rep range (in parentheses next to the movement) is hit on the first set, weight goes up on all three.

EDIT: Kind of a bummer that my post asking for feedback and my comments asking questions are getting downvoted, but a big thank you to everyone who has given helpful feedback. I've gathered that overall there should be more rest days, more emphasis on climbing outside / board climbing, and that it's better to do max hangs on climbing days than on separate days. I will implement this advice as best I can, thank you internet!

I have a question involving how often and for how long I should do high intensity finger training. I currently am doing this routine: day one: a high intensity (6 second one hand weighted hangs at max), then a strength endurance session at night. Day two: a low intensity high volume climbing session in morning then chest workout at night. day three is just a hike. Day four is a projecting session, day five is a strength endurance hang-boarding session followed by another low intensity high volume climbing session at night. Saturday is chest and a short hike, and sunday is rest. The location and style vary heavily, from indoor bouldering to sport and outdoor projecting. I sleep 8 hours, eat high protein and take supplements of vitamin c, d, and amino acids (beef gelatin) before workouts. Everything included, this routine involved three high intensity workouts and two endurance workouts for finger strength a week. My friends say this is way too much and im going to get injured. I stop if i feel any pain and rest for a full 48 hours, and have had no injuries for a year. My plan is to follow tho routine for about 4 months until end of summer assuming injuries and then take a 2 week rest from finger training before projecting some hard stuff for a week or two. Do you think this is a solid routine or am i risking a pulley injury?

Hello,

I've been climbing for approx 7months at currently a v4 level. My pull-ups are pretty weak(pull-ups max on a good day otherwise 3). Im short too around 5feet so my explosiveness especially for lower body needs to be good too. So I've been hopping on two different training programs, one for pull-ups and the other for plyometric :

Pullups : https://youtu.be/w9Mu-azxol8?si=_z6CjTyIAQJtRbni

Plyometric : https://www.basketballforcoaches.com/vertical-jump/

Currently I climb Tuesday, Wenesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Decreasing climbing volume for me would be complicated as I don't have access to any type of gym that allows under 16 year Olds and I'm 15. Would it be okay to consider any day I'm climbing or pulling a leg rest day like could this schedule work +:

Monday : rest

Tuesday : 3x max Pullup before climbing

Wenesday : plyo and climbing

Thursday : Pullup workout after climbing

Friday : plyometric and rest

Staurday : climbing and Pullup workout either before or after

Sunday : plyo and climbing

I hope you understand what I mean, I have a lot of doubts when it comes to programming as I'm scared of affecting my climbing... Thanks for your sttention😁

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

The /r/climbharder Master Sticky. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions.

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

I've recently moved from a big city, with the nearest outdoor climbing in the 2-3h drive range, to a much smaller place, much closer to real rock, with multiple sport crags, a couple trad crags and loads of bouldering within about 30min drive, making after work sessions quite feasible.

In the past, my training schedule would be to train indoor in the off-season, and then switch to maybe 2-3 indoor training sessions on Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday, rest Friday and go on a weekend trip where I'd be trying to climb as much real rock as possible, mostly onsight trad climbing.

But now I could climb on real rock every single day (weather permitting). Which is quite new to me, so unsure how to plan around that... I know, first world problem!

How would you recommend balancing training with climbing on real rock? Should I still prioritize real rock over everything else (bar rest), and just mix sport climbing with bouldering sessions to maintain power and power endurance? Or should I still maintain some indoor training sessions?

Context about myself:

• Male, 38
• Climbing age: 15 years, but really last 6 years more seriously
• Training age: 6-12 months. Started thinking about my sessions more deliberately in 2023, and structured training in late 2023
• Main focus is alpine climbing & trad climbing
• Sport 6c/7a (5.11) OS, 7a RP (didn't have a chance to project many routes, as would only do ~1 sport trip a year, so typically only try things a couple times and them move to a different crag)
• Trad E2 (~5.10), couple soft E3s
• Boulder several V6s in day, flash around V3-4, didn't do many trips to bouldering areas for longer to actually try and project something. V7 indoor, but who knows what that is
• Weak fingers (or maybe just new and bad at hang boarding), at about 110% BW on 20mm for 10s

Goals:

• Long term: Get better on rock, at a variety of styles, to ultimately support bigger alpine objectives (e.g. ability to onsight quickly, climb efficiently for long durations)
• This year: Get solid at E3, climb my first 7b (5.12), maybe 7c?

Training structure:

• 3 sessions a week
  • Strength & power
    • Max hangs
    • Project bouldering (gym set)
    • Weights (something like bench press, deadlift, weighted pull ups, 3x5)
  • Power endurance
    • Route doubles / onsight sport climbing
    • OR boulder 4x4s etc.
  • Strength & power
    • Max hangs
    • Board climbing (V1-3 sessions)
    • Weights (slightly different exercises, keeping it to push, pull, legs)
  • (off-season) Endurance
    • Route 4x4s / ARC climbing
  • If climbing on the weekend, I'd drop one of the sessions

If I have the option to have sessions after work, on real rock, would you swap the bouldering sessions for outdoor projecting (and maybe get a hangboard at home to supplement)? Swap the power endurance session with just sport climbing at the crag?

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

I wasn't sure whether to put this here or r/climbergirls as women generally need to actively think about bone density more.

Weightlifting is highly correlated with increased bone density. Is climbing?

I (33F) had a DEXA scan done a decade ago when lifting was one of my main hobbies and I wasn't on the road to osteoporosis but I was surprised my bone density was still below average for my sex and age (I'm not sure if average was compared to the general population, or the population of people who get DEXA scans which would skew more athletic).

I popped this inquiry into Google and came across this study (of men) which determined "resistance-trained men had higher bone density at the central skeletal sites than rock climbers; however, bone quality variables of the peripheral limbs were similar in rock climber and resistance-trained groups."

Bone density is definitely a concern in climbers experiencing RED-S, but with proper fueling and recovery or at a more recreational level of the sport, does climbing set you up to age with good bones? I'm not sure the relation of importance between bone density in your limbs vs central skeletal sites etc.

I don't personally have any huge concerns (though another DEXA scan couldn't hurt if I ever feel like spending $$$ on it, and it certainly wouldn't hurt to start lifting again but climbing is way more fun...) but was surprised to see little discussion on it via the search, or was curious if any older climbers have any experience.

Hey Team - short time lurker, but big big fan.

Sort version is: I find the amount of training program beta available overwhelming and I am struggling with where to start - hence this post.

Long Story:

• 53 (M) 5'8' 155lbs
• Life long 5-fun climber who has been mostly focused on adventure climbing and multi pitch trad
• Hardest to date has been a short, soft (steep) 5.12 sport in Skaha and Exasperator (5.10b trad) in Squamish. Both sends were in my late 20's. Both were not pretty...
  • This was a time when climbing was my primary warm weather sport.
• I'm blessed with old man strength and maybe above average flexibility...
  • I work out at a CrossFit gym 4/5 times a week and can squat snatch 140.
  • I know have power, strength, speed and flexibility
• Climbing has been a social/Type 2 fun activity since my early 30's so, not my primary sport and have never trained. But usually climb 30-40 days per season pretty consistently. Usually one road trip per year.
• I'm keen to drop or reduce CrossFit and only train in our climbing gym/outdoors with three goals in mind for summer of 2025
  • Red point a 5.12 with good style
  • Send the Grand Wall with stronger partner (maybe this is a 2026 goal...)
  • Not. Get. Hurt. I'm injury free and I will stay that way.
• I climb at our local and on sight the 10's, work the 11's and don't even bother with the 12's. I keep it chill when climbing outdoors 5.9 trad and up to 5.10 c/d sport.

Bringing us to now and what should I do for next steps? Hire a coach to build me a plan? Buy Lattice? Build my own training plan based on the absolute ocean of information available?

I don't want to burden my hard climbing friends with my novice questions until I have a good starting place... once I feel like I'm on the right track with disciplined training, then I'll start bugging my buddies.

Few loose end notes:
- I ordered "9 out of 10 climbers"
- I have an ok headspace, but recognize fear of falling is something to get over
- I'm blessed with a flexible work schedule

There you have it! Thanks for any and all advice, except the bad advice.

Hi all,

Looking for some advice. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. I’ve been climbing 3.5 years, am 5’ 8.5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang).

I struggle hard on any flat edge crimps (even on slab). If there is a small lip/edge to the crimp, I can do slab/vert but anything more than like 15 degrees overhang I simply can’t hold onto. Like for example, I consistently climb V4-V5 at most gyms I visit on all problems without small crimpy holds (which is a lot of different gyms due to frequent traveling), but set the Kilter/Tension/Grasshopper board to 25-30 degrees and I can barely climb V0 - its just such my anti-style. I can’t even start a V0 on the moonboard.

I can’t hang body weight for any period of time on a 20mm edge. I can do about 15 seconds at BW on a 28mm edge. Whats would you recommend strategy wise for improving my ability to climb flat edge crimps on any wall as well as to improve ability to hang onto “good” crimpy holds with edges/lips on overhang?

1. Weighted hangs @28mm
2. Get a board with 25mm edge and attempt BW hangs.
3. Use a pulley system to remove weight and hang @20mm with reduced weight?
4. Something else?

I recently fixed my diet and my weight is just melting off, since I’m a long distance runner as well. Down 8lbs in the last 4 weeks. As this continues I know it will help me greatly, but I still see climbers who weigh more than me hanging on 20mm edges all the time so I know I simply can’t blame my weight.

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

The /r/climbharder Master Sticky. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions.

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some wisdom on how to progress as a climber now that I'm facing some hurdles! I'd appreciate anything anybody might offer, as I'm pretty obsessed with climbing, and would love more than anything to get better!

A little about me:

• I've been climbing for about a year and a half, nearly all of which has been spent bouldering indoors. I'm able to consistently project 6's in my gym and v6/7s (rarely 7s) on the kilter. My highest flashes are 6s on kilter, which I can only sometimes do.
• On the 9c test, I scored an 8b, which Google tells me translates to a v13. I think this is ridiculous considering how much I struggle on the grades I currently DO climb lol.
• Prior to climbing, I was pretty intense on powerlifting, so I did transition to climbing with a decent foundation. Nowadays, I exclusively climb, and I do not do any weight training at all. The only training I do outside of climbing is 1 arm pullup training.
• I climb ~5-6 days a week, with a ratio of kilter to gym climbing at about 1:2.

The issue is, I'm not sure how to program and progress my climbing. Although I love climbing, it's gotten to a point where each successive session, although absent of any injuries, has been feeling like I can only climb to half my potential due to fatigue. Hence, I feel like it's time to start climbing smart instead of throwing myself on the walls and ending up injured.

If anybody has any books they would recommend me read, or a basic structure of training days, climbing days, and rest days, I would be so so so grateful. Some ideas I have floating in my head are to incorporate hangboarding, yoga, antagonistic muscle training, core and cardio, but I'm unsure how.

Once again, thank you all very much in advance!

edit: I'm 23

Hey, new to the sub

I've been climbing for the past 5 years, specializing in bouldering. I'm 17 and have sent multiple (indoor) V9s, V10s, and only 1 V11 (my gym is known for trying to be as realistic as possible with grading with respect to outdoors, but take my sends with a grain of salt- I do climb outdoors tho, and send the occasional 7-8). I have no training routine, no coach, workout occasionally, and sesh three days in a row (ik). I hangboard quite often, and hit the kilter and moonboard as well. So many people think I should compete in the Junior division, but I'm worried that I wouldn't be able to compete with kids with strict training regiments, coaches, and teams. I can't really afford a coach or to join a team. Do I just keep doing what I'm doing? Do I try to tighten up my training routine? Am I cooked? This is really the last year before I age out, so I'm wondering what I need to do in order to prepare.

For reference, here's just some general info.

Height: 6'1"

Ape Index: +2

Weight: 175lbs

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone. I made a post 2 months ago about the spray wall app that my partner and I have been building for the last year.

The main feedback we've been getting was about the pricing scheme and monetization model we chose for home walls. So we decided to double back and make our app free for home wall users :)

If you missed the first post, the app lets you set and catalog spray wall climbs. It's like Stokt, except:

• It's 100% free for home walls
• We automatically extract holds from photos using AI, so you don't need to get us to reprocess images when you move or add holds.
• You can save beta videos on climbs

We also have a paid product for commercial spray walls which is how we're hoping to make money moving forward. We already have a small set of gyms on board.

This is what the wall scanning looks like: https://i.imgur.com/1FrtUnz.gif

If you try it out on your wall, please let me know what you think. You can download the app here: https://www.cruxapp.ca/homewalls

Rehabbing an injured knee with a PT is one thing (still waiting for my appointment), but how do we prevent knee injuries in the first place when doing heel hooks?

Warm up

I usually do full ROM bodyweight squats and leg curl (about 15 reps) using a band attached to a squat rack.

Other than that, I start with easier climbs.

Heel hooking technique

I believe that this is the #1 cause for my knee injuries. I think that I should be rotating my hips more to engage my glutes instead of doing some sort of knee joint lock when heel hooking.

Here's an older post that I found: Post , Video

For movement re-education, I plan on doing single leg bridges: Hoopers Beta (8:16)

When heel hooking, the hip external rotation technique works well for pushing downward to transfer some weight on the heel instead of the hand (thus replacing a limb). However, I am not sure how applicable this is for weird heel hooks with a heavily bent leg that must be used to prevent a foot cutting loose or a barndoor.

Knee conditioning

I can already do pistol squats and deadlift 2xBW, so I believe that I need to strengthen my knees in those weird angles. Exercises that I was thinking about adding in my weekly routine:

Side steps with band resistance Hoopers Beta (9:00)

Side lunges

Some one leg work on bosu ball Hoopers Beta (3:40)

Final thoughts

Taking into consideration my age (getting closer to 36) and probably genetics, I wonder how much control I really have over heel hook injuries. I sometimes wonder if I should simply avoid boulder problems with weird heel hooks.

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

Hello guy.

I found this table that shows some correlation between your strength in some exercices and your supposed grade in climbing :

​

https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/metrics-for-climbers

Does it correlate with your climbing level in bouldering ?

I didn't do the 20mm edges tests yet since the only one in my gym is too low so I couldn't add weight on the belt (would touch the floor).

I'm a V6 climber, 1M84 (6ft1) and I was able to :

Do 1 pull up with 58kg (1.79 x my bodyweight), 38 campus max reach (in inches), 25 pull up, 38 push up.

I'm aware that finger strength may be the most important and I didn't test it. It's indeed probably my weakness compared to the rest but I'm still confident I would be at least in the average value. (I would guess near 1.4 - 1.5 x my bw on the 20mm edge).

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What else could play a role? Is it my technique ? Or is there something else like my tendon stiffness?

I want to progress but I'm hitting a plateau rn and it's really frustrating! :)

I just started hangboarding to improve my finger strength, if you have some advices for me, I would be grateful!

(pardon my english, it's not my first language)

I'm a very static climber and I have finger strength, endurance, and quick recovery, but I really struggle when it comes to powerful moves. I'm 5' 6" with a negative ape index (negative 2") and longer legs than arms. Some boulder problems feel impossible to me even if they're within my grade, because they require a big throw from a sit-start.

I've been able to find alternate beta for some, but some really do require the throw. How can I improve my throws, especially specifically from sit-starts?

I've started focusing on burst-ups for my pull-ups recently, going for low volume but bursting movement vs. controlled just because I think this is what I need most. In the past year, I've also tried to start campusing a bit. Is there anything else I can do technique-wise or training-wise for this?

Bouldering with guy friends, they'll often skip at least half of what I use. They'll compliment me on my finger strength and say they don't know how I use the holds that I do, but I can't fathom how they throw like they do! I'll try and try and still be over a foot away. I'm not super short, so what's going on? I'm actually slightly over 5' 6", I round up to 5' 7". So even with the negative two inches I should be around 5' 5", average proportions or slightly longer legs than arms.

TLDR: I had my first repeater session a couple days ago, and wasn’t able to complete a full set. I’m should I reassess right away or stick with my program?

Hi! Run-of-the-mill V5 plateau guy here. I have a 5 months window when my professional life won’t interfere with my climbing at all, after two years of issues with consistency. I’ve written down a structured approach, which includes hangboarding for pretty much the first time in my life. I’ll be climbing 3 times a week, with one project/power day, one power endurance day, and one unstructured shorter session. I don’t have access to the equipment required to test max hangs, and I’m abroad with no partners. No pulley system either, just a hook for bands.

Hangboard module looks like this, and opens my power endurance day after basic full-body warm up:

• Hangboard-specific warm-up

• Finger flicks (front, side, overhead, 3 cycles)

• Shoulder sequences (scarecrow, iyt, bar rotation over head)

• Side bends holding bar

• Band fingers stretch and curl

• Pull-ups + knees to chest cycles (3 reps each, 3 sets, rest in between)

• Hangboard

• Repeaters - half crimp

• Jug (2 sets)

• 40mm (2 sets)

• 20mm (3 sets)

• 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off

• 1 min set, 4min break between sets

• Body weight on jugs and 40mm, ballpark 50% max hang on 20mm

My first session log:

• Jug sets ok
• 40mm sets ok
• First 20mm set start with purple resistance band, then move to green resistance band for last half. Last rep move to 40mm.
• Second 20mm set with green resistance band. First three reps on 20mm, then move to 40mm
• Third 20mm set with green resistance band. First three reps on 20mm, failure on third rep. Move to 40mm for finish.

All “move to 40mm” was with the band, and was because I was concerned of failure and injury. Medium-high pump afterwards, to a degree I haven’t felt in a long while. Somewhat quick recovery from it, with minor hinderance to rest of the session.

Is there any reason to start interpreting results that soon, and adjust? Or just keep at it and see if it improves? Specifically, I wonder how much failing and moving to 40mm hangs will help me transition to more time under tension on 20mm.

Thanks!

Edit: formatting

Let me start this off with a disclaimer that I probably have no idea what I’m talking about, and am seeking some guidance from you amazing dedicated individuals. I am asking for your forgiveness for my ignorance in advance. I also figure this topic has been covered but I haven’t exactly found the direct answers I’m looking for.

Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5.12c-ish plateau.

In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. I am very curious about seeing how these affect recruitment and if am able to gain overall finger strength using these methods.

The only thing that makes me hesitate is measuring my pulling force. I am not keen to mess around with RPE because I just don’t trust myself to be consistent, so I have been researching on whether or not a tindeq is worth it for training purposes, not just measuring progress. I should mention that tracking progress is also something I am interested in. The simplicity and predictability of no hangs are alluring but I am just not entirely sold on going in on an expensive device that I am not sure will tick all my boxes

In short my questions are these:

Is the tindeq a worthy training tool aside from measuring progress.

If so, what protocols do you use to actually train

What kind of warm up protocols are enabled by the features of tindeq?

Thank you for any and all help for this training dummy!

Hello guys,

I'm 25M who recently broke gym V6 (Karma in Fontainebleau), meaning that I have a high probability of completing a V6 project on a limit session. I have been climbing for 5 years, and training for climbing for a year. I climb every two days, mainly on the spray wall because that's where I get the biggest gains, and also because that's where I find the worst versions of my hold nemesis, AKA slopers.

I have been climbing with a group of friend recently, who climb V5 and hardly climb V6. I can flash 1/3 of their projects, but as soon as the second to last hold of the boulder is a sloper, it's over for me. I'm talking open hand slopers, where the wrist is bend 50 to 90 degrees. The worst is when it's a dynamic move, and I'm supposed to land on a sloper: the wrists tendons (left or right or both) always pop and I fall. If it's not dynamic, it's just slightly painful on the ulnar side of the wrist.

My friend said it's because my wrists are longer than usual, which yields more strain on the forearm tendons. It's true that I have a considerable ape index (1.06), and that the length of my wrist especially are a big part of this value. It's also scary to see that there is an inverse correlation between my friends ability to campus slopers on the spray wall and the length of their forearm. I don't like to say things are always genetic, so I tried my best to train for slopers since the beginning of the year.

This has been my routine to increase my forearm and wrist mobility and strength for slopers:

• Dumbbells

1. Flexion (4 reps, 4 kg)
2. Extension (4 reps, 2kg, this is hard for me, and the wrist pops, but I can see some improvement)

• Hammer

1. Ulnar and radial deviations
2. Supination
3. Pronation (a bit painful)

• Wrist roller: 5 reps back and forth, 4 kg, extension mode
• Beastmaker: 45 degrees sloper engaged hangs (4 times 15 seconds, getting better)
• Campus board (every two holds, up and down; then I finish with 3 reps of 1-5-9
• Spray wall, where I try to add simple slopers on a route for each hand

This is basically what I found on the internet these last couple weeks, but I would like to add or rectify my routine to increase my performance, strength, mobility and get rid of this wrist popping when I try to land on a sloper. Thank you!

Current stats:

5'11" (~180cm) 145 lbs (~65.5kg) Body fat %: 8.2% with hydrostatic, 9.5% with DEXA

Past stats :

140 lbs (~63.5kg) Body fat %: 7.5% with hydrostatic, 8.6% with DEXA

Observations I have made:

Zero 'heavy' or 'chubby' male (I don't really watch female climbers apart from Janja highlights because I'm not a female climber and I'm trying to figure out optimal male body type for climbing) climbers at the olympics, international competitions, or any of the national+ comps.

Which logically follows (even if there were an exception, exceptions don't make the rule, but there seems to be ZERO exception) that you have to be lean at the very least and pretty low body weight relative to your height.

Discussion:

At my current body weight, I can eat whatever I want and maintain it. I can go down to 140lbs quite easily, but have noticed tiny bit of hunger issue + recovery issue (nothing significant).

I can possibly go down to 135lbs, but I will 100% need to starve myself.

My peak performance is probably around 140lbs, but how do you go about finding your optimal body weight? Just trial and error? Isn't lower always better as long as you remain healthy and don't get injured?

​

Hello all! I'm curious to get some feedback on this training plan. I am at a crossroads with it. I typically project at ~v5, v6 if it is my style.

The training plan: I am on week 2 of 6 week of a volume plan for bouldering. This program follows a pyramid structure, with the first week having one session of 4 x v0s, 4 x v1s, 4 x v2s, 4 x v3s, 4 x v4s, 4 x v3s, 4 x v2s, 4 x v1s. There is 1 min of rest for the 0s and v1s, 1.5 mins of rest for the v2s and v3s, and 2 mins of rest for the v4s. The climbing of the actual boulder is meant to be continuous and swift. Each week, I up the number of boulders I do in each grade of the pyramid up by 1, with the goal being to eventually be able to 10 of each grade by the end of the 6 weeks.

The motivation: I know there can be a lot of pushback to this type of training. (Bouldering while fatigued can encourage sloppy technique, time would better be spent strength training or projecting, you should just top rope, etc.)

But for my bouldering skillset, I think this training plan is what I need most. I am very much lacking in session endurance, and can only really boulder for an hour or so before I get quite tired. This makes climbing outdoors difficult. I am hoping that this training plan increases my endurance in bouldering so I can enjoy my climbing sessions more. I also tend to get mentally "stuck" on the wall, and freeze up when I think I am too tired to make a move. This training plan has been encouraging me to make moves even beyond my usual "pump" limit, as climbing to exhaustion and building endurance is the point of this exercise. I also find that I am moving much more dynamically than I normally would during my volume training sessions, which is a great push for me since I am a prohibitively static climber.

​

The Problem: For each of these 2 sessions, I was falling off about half of the 4s that I got to, and falling off of 3s and 2s on the way down the pyramid due to being pumped. My question for the sub is- would it be wise to not go up in volume until I am able to send the number of climbs that I completed on week 2 without falling as often?

​

I worry that if I keep going up in volume while falling off of routes as much as I already am, it will become increasingly difficult to measure my progress. I also worry that getting up about half of a higher number of routes may be less beneficial to my goals than doing a fewer number of routes to completion.

It may be worth noting that although I fell on roughly the same percentage of boulders on week 2, I felt much stronger and less tired by the midway point and by the end.

Thoughts?

I'm curious if anyone else dealt with this issue, and if they have any tips that helped their progression.

Essentially, performance seems to be my biggest issue. Bouldering comes a little easier to me, so I can generally do all the moves on a boulder problem that's at my limit and start making links. When it comes to doing send goes, I'll spend 2-3 sessions or more trying to send. This has happened at almost every grade, getting to the very last move and either giving up (or chickening out) or not remembering some key beta/body position that throws me off. It feels like if I don't send by the 2nd or 3rd session its going to take me 2-3 more sessions to send. e.g. my latest project I've done all the moves multiple times, I'll even warm up on the crux moves and complete them smoothly. When it comes time to do the full boulder (for reference it's about a V3 into 3 difficult moves), I kept messing up the key heel hook beta that I did intuitively in the previous session. It's REALLY frustrating as one could imagine, seeing as I've done all the moves and proper links but it's like a mental block prevents me from trying harder and sending.

Sport climbing is not as strong for me, but feels like it might be the same issue. It's generally endurance-based, but feels like I psych myself out right before the crux despite having done all the moves. I think there's more going on here, but I'd like to focus on bouldering performance seeing as it's more obvious to me.

I can train more of course and mitigate the difficulty of the moves, but that doesn't feel like it will hit core problem.

This has also become more obvious to me with my newer climbing partner. He doesn't really train or climb as much indoors and he's able to send things at his limit -- and the reason I point this out is, it may take him 4-5 sessions but he'll always put it together, it's basically inevitable. I consistently see him try hard and he'll even send something on his 3rd or 4th go when it's obvious he's quite tired.

Anyways. I'm just a bit frustrated with my own performance and feels like I'm capturing lightning in a bottle when I'm doing well rather than being intentional.

EDIT: I don't know if it helps, but I was diagnosed with ADHD in the past which could have an negative impact on my ability to focus while climbing.