I am brand new to resin casting and not sure I want to continue. I do, however, have at least one project I've been dying to make for a couple years now. I love charcuterie and I want to make a "live edge" pot leaf serving tray--a "charblunterie," if you will.

Sure, I could use an existing serving tray mold and cast themed colors, objects, but that's not what I want. I don't want your typical round or square shapes--I want the shape of the leaf! I don't want to be a mold maker, but for this project, I'll make one if I must (I haven't found anything purchasable molds bigger than an ashtray). If anyone has any tips, or could point me to an easy-to-follow video, I would greatly appreciate it!

Side note, cardboard would about the only thing I could use as a "pattern." I'm a middle aged female without wood working tools. Crochet and charcuterie are my main hobbies, lol. I know I may be asking a lot, but I'm willing to purchase the putty.

It’s a 25’ x 10’ x 25’ horseshoe shaped walnut bar top. The wood was expertly sanded & treated with Howard’s feed-n-wax. 4 days later we poured what was intended to be the first of 2) 1/8” thick layers of total boat table top epoxy. Unfortunately, because the bar isn’t open yet, the ambient temperature was around 65-67. It was poured at night with poor lighting & some of the 5 large buckets that were poured (8 gallons total), might not have been mixed well enough….because, we have several areas that are still sticky to the touch, even after turning up the heat & using a heat gun. We also discovered that one large area hadn’t adhered well to the wood, so that area, we chipped off entirely. It’s been 5 days. The temp was only just turned up this morning. We’re hoping that some of these un-cured areas will continue to set up &/or will cure when the final layer is added. Or, do we chip it all off & start over? We now know we should have started with a much thinner skim coat & a warmer ambient temp. So sad that we didn’t research & read more directions! I’ll try & add som photos here as well.

Hi all, I have whittled some wood figures and would like to make some clones of them (to hand out to friends; I can't yet bring myself to handing down the originals). I was thinking about using a silicone mold and filling it with some sort of epoxy, however I am completely new to the casting process and am looking for some advice.

I'm especially concerned with the effect the molding process will have on my figures - I don't want them to be destroyed or suffer in any way from the process. For reference: the figures are about 3x3x6 cm in size, bass-wood, sanded and finished with food-safe wood oil. Will making a mold from it affect the wood? Can/should I use silicone or will it adhere too much to the grain of the wood? What should I watch out for in mold/casting products?

I'd be happy on any advise and (product) suggestions on how to reproduce my figures without damaging the original.

Hey guys,

I’ve just realised I’ve been using the wrong term 🤦 I’ve been using casting when in fact I am embedding.

With that being said, this is the kind of thing I want to use resin for, to seal objects in 3d shaped resin case.

would I more likely than not need a “deep pour” resin?

Thanks

The artist is laurids.gallee on instagram. This is quite a small version of his lamps. I am new hear and would appreciate some tips.

Does anyone have a favorite pen mold? The ones I've seen look like they'd create a big lip with how open they are along the pouring side. I'd love to avoid that if I could, but not sure any other kind exists.

I need advice on interactions between silicone oil and silicone.

So, let's say, I would want to make a silicone balloon (30 shore hardness), and use a peristaltic pump to fill it with a fluid to expand the balloon and then after some time deflate it again, emptying the fluid in another silicone balloon.

The silicone balloons would be fully cured before filling the system, and be glued to the peristaltic pump tube using silicone adhesive.

This would be a closed system, and would be able to do as many slow repetitions as possible.

Would it be better to fill this with silicone oil, demineralised water, or another fluid entirely?

Does the silicone oil eventually leak through, or does it keep the silicone supple for longer?

Hey all,

I'm still pretty new to resin casting. I was trying to make some gifts but something went off the rails and I don't even know where to begin to fix it.

Here's what I did, in case any step is important:

1. Took a brass pen tube for turning pens and painted it black
2. Used superglue to glue a bunch of small puzzle pieces to the tube. I did use some quick cure for the superglue in case that's relevant, but it was given plenty of time to dry and evaporate.
3. Did my best to coat the tube and the pieces with mod podge to prevent any separation. I let this sit for over a day to make sure it was dry.
4. Mixed Alumilite Clear Slow as per the instructions
5. Poured over and put in the pressure pot overnight at 40 PSI.

I've attached the results as images. It's very foamy on the inside and I have no idea why. Is it using cardboard pieces? Is the resin too old? Something else? I have no idea what the problem could have been and no idea how to fix it if I try again.

https://preview.redd.it/ik35ggf0nu3e1.png?width=1659&format=png&auto=webp&s=a79153710872d9145cdeb3b525b639648acbad68

https://preview.redd.it/upmlxwu2nu3e1.png?width=2145&format=png&auto=webp&s=dd46183f09ada91e75a611b2c04782e70c10810a

Additional photos showing the mold and another image of the casting:

https://preview.redd.it/xh82ckxewu3e1.png?width=1254&format=png&auto=webp&s=a596204096cb6f1985e4fc280e9ff11eeef4288c

https://preview.redd.it/76rqq0fgwu3e1.png?width=1248&format=png&auto=webp&s=cb5b25497d06db658c67f07a5ca70b8c55eae4f8

Tried this stained glass effect on this paint pallet. 1/1 only one I've made. https://www.eventeny.com/company/?c=252243

Hello ! I'm a 3d artist and I've been wanting to make molds to cast some of the little figurines I print.
I had no trouble find silicone to make molds but it seems impossible to find any opaque material for the actual casting. I tried looking for epoxy resin, alumilite white resin and other resin but they're all clear.

The only time I saw good options it was on the US amazon store and I live in canada.

Any recommendations are welcome, I'm pulling my hair out ;;

I'm printing a model that I made sure is just curve throught, and the resulting piece is coming out just a little bit concave.

My resin is True Cast Blue and I tried printing in two machines, a Photon S and a Elegoo M 5 Ultra.

Is this problem know? Any opinions on why this keeps happening?

https://preview.redd.it/9j0dqerrsn3e1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=685ef63e74e136157dbc30269e63ded64595ea16

https://preview.redd.it/z9b7jfrrsn3e1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7f4bb55f898dd3a2697dec79a214ad08557ea5c

I understand people in this sub probably take their time, and really embrace the craft and technique of resin casting. This is not one of those projects, but I'm hoping I can get some advice regardless. I've done so much wrong, that I understand, but I'm wondering if you can help me with the final touches of my first ever resin project (and likely should be my last, I'm very impatient.)

My friend Tiff had this sweet potato she really liked, and I decided that I wanted to preserve it for her for as long as possible. I read that resin casting vegetables won't work in the long run, but I was willing to put in a little time and money if it kept the sweet potato around for a bit longer than it would naturally.

I mixed the epoxy and began to pour. There are issues, weird bubbles, a divot on the front of it. I understand that and am fine with it. She will love it.

I just tried sanding using an orbital sander. Started at 60 grit, then 120, 220, and 320. The block is smoother and a bit more even, but incredibly cloudy, which it wasn't before sanding.

Are there any steps I can take to get rid of the cloudiness? Higher grit sand paper? Longer sanding times on the higher grit? Is there a substance I need to finish it with to regain clarity? Buffing?

Again, I understand my project is a little haphazard and ugly, but Tiff is gonna love her sweet potato. I also put some glitter and butterfly stickers in there.

Thanks to anyone who may be able to help me out.

Any maybe known upcoming offers on quality molds from shops which ships to europe? Would like to upgrade from the sad aliexpress ones, as i am not super happy with the depth of the numbers and some other quality issues on the numbers themselves (after 2 castings one of them just managed to wear down...)

Hi,

I'm starting a company producing chess sets at scale from Resin and had a few questions that would help in the initial phase.

Is epoxy the most cost effective while maintaining a high quality?
Does it work well both as transparent, and as various colours (dyed)?
Does anybody know of any/have experience with reputable manufacturers in Ireland that can manufacture in bulk?
The level of detail I'm aiming for would be similar to the Google images below:
https://regencychess.ie/products/the-berkeley-chess-scottish-russet-palisander-chess-set

The Chess Board itself would have an image underneath the squares so that the squares will be transparent & translucent, to the degree that you can see the image but the squares are still user-friendly for the eye. Is this feasible if say the image is a map of an area? Are there specific calculations to predict the translucence of resin before trying it out?

Thanks

Sorry, I realize it's probably a dumb idea.

I like to make wire wrap trees and was wondering if it's possible to basically paint a clearish resin and build up a neat looking coat.

Doubt I could actually dip it and spray on the activator, but open to ideas.

Anyone have technical details on anything like this? Obviously things like fiberglass improve strength but I'm looking for power not fiber. Also if no one has any info would you be interested in seeing testing done with materials in a yt video? If I get that far with it.

I want to try making doll shoes with resin (designing a custom silicone mold) but doll shoes can’t be completely hard because then they’re impossible to put on the doll feet. Usually I use resin that cures rock hard because I’m usually doing jewelry, but is there a type of resin that’s meant to cure just a little bit flexible?

I'm trying to create my own set of infinity stones but I want them to have a sharp and cold feel to them. I've looked everywhere online and can't find anything that is quite what I want. Is there any specific resin I can use for this or a coating that would create a crystal-like feel.

Been researching ways to seal this outdoor table, but I am unsure what type of coating to use.

As it is glossy tile am I correct in thinking that Acrylic based sealants won't be suitable?

Would a polyurethane sealant be the best option? It is also uneven so I would need the coating to make the table flat.

I’m use to casting pressed flowers directly into serving trays.

I’m changing it up to surprise my sister in law with her wedding flowers I drove 16 hours to my house, and considering buying a deep resin mold instead of a tray.

Some new territory…

1. the flowers are about 75% dry and I’m probably going to plunge them into some silicone.

2. Is there or what is the best way to delicately cut them if need? Some are LARGE bulb flowers and a 2” deep mold seems to be the most reasonable. (See below the one I’m considering)

3. She had a lot of foliage/leaves, so they’re losing their green, and a I’m bit worried about losing that lush, green aesthetic. Ideas? I’m use to focusing on the florals, so not use to this problem lol.

P.s. I’ve got plenty of flowers if I frack it up. I made buddies with the florist that day 😊😉

https://a.co/d/dOrYsS3

Hey yall! A friend of mine has a bunch of wood from cutting down a tree and I was thinking of taking some, drilling holes and adding resin to use in my fireplace. The idea is to use candles in the holes instead of the holiday lights I have hanging now. Though it's a usable fireplace I'm just worried the whole thing could catch fire. The picture is my inspiration, of course I'd let the wood dry. I saw online that a few weeks was enough but pls tell me if that's wrong. Ty!

Bonjour, j'ai faite tomber par accident une petite partie de résine déjà mélangé dans l'évier, entre 10/20ml vois moins peut être je sais pas. La seule chose que j'ai fait c'était de mettre de l'eau chaude. Est ce que ça peux présenter des dégâts dans les canalisations avec une si petite quantité ? Qqun qui a déjà eu cet problèm avant ? Merci à tous.