*I can only do orange blue white yellow gray, and black because they are pla +

https://preview.redd.it/cuf2kvcfzsge1.png?width=1087&format=png&auto=webp&s=ed29e9a638c7d9d04d3bc19e539080869d8c81f7

I'm just asking questions.

Can I use my 3d printer to make ankle-foot orthosis?

If you could dive into any 3DP topic whether it’s experimental materials, next-gen printer mods, crazy new designs, or something totally out there what would it be?

What do you think is the most promising area to explore or improve in 3D printing?

I want to hear what tinkerers or hobbysts think about this.

I have a Creator Pro Fashforge that I bought from somebody off of Facebook it works but I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect it to my PC and YouTube is not helping at all and the video is on YouTube that are close to helping is still going in way too many details can someone or does anyone know where I can get some help getting it set up.

I saw this quite interesting gridfinity vacu vin project - https://www.printables.com/model/732314-gridfinity-vacu-vin-wine-vacuum-pump/files

However for my project I won't be able to use the vertical stand, so I would like to replace that cavity with two more caps.

My ignorance in cad software means I have no idea how difficult it would be. Basically - remove the bigger cavity, and "copy-paste" two of the other smaller cavities.

Any suggestions appreciated.

If I level the bed slightly higher, the second layer for some reason ends up scraping off the first layer and thw first layer looks horrible (on the left of the image), but if I put it slightly lower it comes out really bad with each layer sticking out a whole bunch(on the right). What do I do?

Hi everyone! My Ender 3 original had a big issue last year and I decided to leave it a while to fix it. It's nozzle temperature is not reading correctly, when not heated (and when heated) it will wildly fluctuate between saying room temperature is 40 and 90. I assure you my room is not 90 degrees celsius. When I set it to heat, the temperature it says does not rise beyond 90 degrees, even though it ACTUALLY heats up. I have:

• switched back to my old hotend (this occurred after installing the Creality Direct Drive)
• bought ten brand new creality thermistors. None of them changed the reading.
• switched a bunch of cables around and switched them back
• reinstalled all the cables
• updated the firmware to Marlin
• did a PID autotune, it gave me the message multiple times; "Hotend failed to heat"
• put it away in a box for a year and focused on my flashforge Inventor

All I can see that's left to do is replace the motherboard. If anyone has something else to try please tell me! Thanks!

What could be causing this?

Okay for the last couple of years, I have been using a LottMax Shark v2 FDM printer. Well, a few weeks ago the magic smoke escaped and is now chips up (an electrical storm fried my UPS and took the printer with it). I was originally going to get a Bamboo Labs X1A Carbon with AMS, but with the latest idiocy that Bamboo Labs is introducing, that brand is out.

I need a new FDM printer and would prefer an equivalent to the X1, with a similar price point. I am not looking to Frankenstein a custom build, I need something that can print right out of the box or after assembly, but would prefer not having to assemble if possible.

Any suggestions?

I recently purchased a Sous Vide circulator. So far I've been using it with a 9 inch stock pot. My next step is to do some longer time cooks and so I wanted to have a lid to cut down on evaporation. I know you can buy lids on Amazon for about $10, but I figured I could 3D print one for about $2.

I did mine in PETG filament, which is good up to about 80C before it starts to soften. Should be good enough for low temperature, long cook time recipes. If I ever do anything hotter that needs a lid, I can re-print with ASA filament which is good to 100C.

If you want to print your own, here is a free STL download from my blog If there's any interest to resize the design for different pots or different sized circulators, I can tweak the sizes.

I keep seeing people design clickers and other cool stuff. I literally just want to design a clicker toy with my cat’s face on it, but there’s no way I would be able to do so easily with my current software (Fusion 360). Is there a program that I can draw my design and upload it, and the drawing just comes to life? Maybe I’m just doing something wrong, but I’ve seen folks online who are able to draw a file then upload it to their slicing software and that’s not something I’ve figured out how to do yet. So sorry if this has already been answered, I did search the group prior to asking.

Going to make something for my nans phone, which involves attaching a part to a TPU case from Amazon. I'm going to print something with PLA, how would I go about attaching them? Would hot glue work, or would I have to screw it in, in which case, how do I make screw holes? Using an Ultimaker S3 at my school, and we have to use Tinkercad for it, but I can potentially learn FreeCAD at home if that is necessary.

Hey guys, I’m looking for some help on how to keep a 3D printed costume safe from warping in the heat.

I’m going to a convention in Florida this weekend, with temperatures ranging from 80-86 F. Due to unavoidable conditions, I have to leave one of my costumes in the car on Thursday until the con is done and I can get access to my hotel room. It will be in the car from 2pm to 9pm without AC, but the sun does go down at 6, so hopefully only a 4 hour window of extreme heat.

-I’m leaving the windows of the car cracked

• I have an opaque black tub with lid that the bulk of the pieces can go in
• what doesn’t fit in the tub are larger structural pieces that have been reinforced with fiberglass
• the larger pieces I was thinking of layering blankets over to keep them out of direct sunlight and provide insulation
• all the prints are Elegoo pla + printed with between 7 and 15% infill, and various coats of Rustoleum paints

I know the general advice will be “don’t do this”, but it’s either I store it in the car or I don’t take the costume. So what can I possibly do to help mitigate disaster?

So basically I'm having trouble taking models from blender and making them into action figures, the main problem I'm having is taking a statue of a charcter (aka a tpose) and making joints that move and work well, the only thing I'm trying to do is make both shoulder, knee, hip, elbow, and the neck joint loveable, if anyone has any tips that would be appreciated (btw I use onshape and the charcter I'm making onto a action figure is from a video game)

I recently got into 3D printing to make cosplay for me and the boys.