Hi,

I had had a Creality Ender 3 V3 for a few days (which I think has the same extruder as the K1) and I ended up returning it because of a massive clog. I didn't want to replace any parts or anything since it had happened so quickly after just a few prints and I'm assuming there were some electronics that were not available to buy.

According to what I see on the internet, this print head seems to have had issues. Are there any specific parts to replace beforehand or specific ways to use this to prevent this from happening?

I used hatchbox pla at 200c.

https://preview.redd.it/5bqswn24ewzd1.png?width=1050&format=png&auto=webp&s=1aacfc5cfe3f70a61434eb975915d1f0fce77b50

https://preview.redd.it/atyv1n24ewzd1.png?width=1042&format=png&auto=webp&s=4cb21a411eda2622222524ca1fadeb09988b09d1

https://preview.redd.it/r4df7o24ewzd1.png?width=1046&format=png&auto=webp&s=e4d6f34546cd5e4e2cc4dae284c5cdc3b869e49d

I have and upgraded ender 3 with direct drive and bltouch so this would be a big upgrade.

My cam died today so iam looking for an up to date cam who works good with klipper.

Used my cam the last 3 Years on my vz235 and iam sure there are some better alternatives.

Thanks

So, I have a 8 year old classic CR10, and a week old ender 3 v3 KE. They both live in my garage and my garage can reach 0°C. Rather strangely both my printer suffer from Z banding. Neither of them had Z banding prior to my putting them in the garage. And my cr10 was only placed in the garage 1 year ago. I find this very suspicious, help would be appricated. I print with Creality Hyper series PLA with 0.4mm nozzle for both. Let me know if you need more details.

Under the yellow it's sticky but i have a magnetic printer and so is this bed

Ok, so as the title says, I somehow got gifted with a new XYZ printer, and as a complete beginner, I want to know how good it is for someone just getting started. Now, it was only around halfway into writing this post where I also found out that the comapny went under, but nonetheless, as someone who has never 3D printed before, I have no idea if this is a complete issue or not.

To elaborate, I moreso want to know how good the resulting prints are, and more importantly, how to get it started.

For example, even with my brief amount of research, I feel like I've already concluded that trying use the printer with 3rd party software and resources is better (eg. using Cura or Prusa for the slicer, and trying to bypass the filament chip thingy), but again, to people who have experience and more knowledge in this, is this recommended? or is it better to still somehow try to make the XYZ software work?

And I guess as a small bit of planning for the future, would it be wise to take apart the XYZ printer for parts and use it on a printer I can buy instead? like an Ender 3 or a Bambu Lab?

Why is my printer making this sound ?!

Hi everyone! I just wanted to share my latest little creation with you all. I’ve only been using fusion for a couple of months, but I’ve been learning a lot and having a ton of fun. This was one has been one of my favorite models to design so far and I’d love to get some feedback on it. I’d like to make a couple more lantern designs and was wondering if this mini size is something I should stick with or work on a full size model?

If you’d like to print this one out, you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/770640#profileId-706435

https://youtu.be/9IdNA_hWiyE?si=7Fuadrqr904Vl3u_ If the creator of this video is right this is something we should investigate and solve. We need this in all slicers. Edit: grammar

There is a not so popular city in South America that my friend is from and I would like to try and make one of those city maps you see of places like New York or Chicago. But I really have no idea what the workflow is here. I'm assuming there is some kind of shortcut to getting much of the way there, and then a bunch of optimization in Blender or whatever to make it good.

Any tips?

Got myself a modestone glowpad for night time note taking (don't ask why).

mudstone glowpad

Having several smaller "all weather notebooks" I then improvised a DIY Glowpad with a PLA sheet and some glow-in-the-dark foil. It works well enough.

diy glowpad

Assembly

Idea:
A next iteration could be glow in the dark filament. Does anybody have experience with that? I found this article: https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/which-glow-in-the-dark-filament-is-the-best (2023-03) which tests some products and points out that they are all nozzle killers.

Questions:

Is the mixture still the same or the article outdated?
Would I really waste a nozzle for 100g of printing?

Related topics:
- https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/search/?q=glow
- https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3nt65e/how_abrasive_are_glowinthedark_filaments/

Hello guys, I’m looking to get an auto leveling mod for my old ender 3 pro.

Would this work : https://amzn.eu/d/2lZsYMj

Will it need a custom firmware such as marlin ? Thanks

Available on printables: https://www.printables.com/@MatthiasL

I appreciate your support! Thank you!

...today I just realized that I had a 0.6 nozzle installed that I didn't knew about.

Last year a bought the CHCB-OT hot end from Trianglelabs for my Ender 3 S1 and it has been a really nice upgrade along with the CHT MK8 Nozzles and some fan improvements. But a few.koths ago the prints were not as reliable, as some came perfect and others failed continuously and I could find the reason. They didn't adhere properly, were under extruded or they just were trash in final print quality. I remember taking apart the extruder, changing the bed plate, leveling a 100 times, but nothing helped, so yesterday I decided to change my nozzle to a normal MK8 and found out the CHT I took out was a 0.6 one, and not the 0.4 I thought and set up on clipper and the slicer. Put it back on the hotels, changed the nozzle size everywhere and voila! Working. Perfectly again!

I've been trying to organize my box(es) of loose screws and have the idea of using this case from Dewalt.

When searching online I've come up short for boxes that actually fit and possibly even are stackable.

Has anyone made something similar or can point me in the right direction?