When the dishwasher is running a cleaning cycle it randomly makes this grinding noise. Initially it was for a few seconds but now on wash cycles it's happening for 30+ seconds. It will stop on its own, or if I open the door and then continue the cycle it stops. Almost sounds like it's having trouble changing gears?

Dishwasher is a Frigidaire FFCD2413US3A

Video: https://imgur.com/a/Dh3poFa

Due to excessive vibrations with spin cycles, I need to get a 3/4 inch piece of plywood underneath my washing machine.

It has a dryer stacked on top of it. The stack is in a modified closet, I only have access to the front (and a bit of the front sides) without pulling it out.

Is there a way to jack it up? I am ok with buying some tools or gadgets. I’m able bodied but not particularly strong. I have one friend of similar ability who I could recruit to help.

And the plywood is a bandaid solution to a bigger problem with the floor, but that is a longer term fix due to finances.

Thank you for any advice.

My ovet is consistenyl 20 degrees cool. I cant find instructions anywhere on how to calibrate because everything is digital. Trying to figure it out to same myself 100s on a tech coming here

I have an Amana washing machine that exhibits the following symptoms.

1. when the machine tries to fill initially, water exits through the drain hose
2. if I valve off the end of the drain hose, the washer fills and enters wash step
3. I open the table at the end of the hose, (washer still in wash step) and the tub starts draining. Opening the lid shuts the drain off. Closing the lid, the washer fills up a little, clicks twice, and then starts emptying

I am not sure what I need to actually replace here.

I took the panel off in the freezer and the vent to the fridge was completely ice plugged up. I check the drain line and it was clear all the way to the drip pan.

I put the fridge in service mode and when I got to the part to turn the defrost on, the element never heated up. There is continuity from one side to the other. The bimetal is getting 120vlts whenever I try to manually turn on the defrost.

What could the problem be?

Ok so a year ago I had the issue with a decent amount of water leaking underneath and it was in fact a blocked drain hole. I took everything apart and unclogged the drain and used the hairdryer to defrost the whole unit. This fixed that problem. It’s a year later now there is a smaller leak and it’s coming from what looks like the middle of the base where there are two rectangular sort of recessed areas. I checked the drain and the tray and that seems to be working fine. Any ideas what this problem could be and how to address? There is no ice cube maker on this unit.

My dishwasher is showing an error: "Diverter valve failure." I've already checked the solenoid valve and the diverter valve responsible for distributing water. What else should I check?

soooo basically i fucked up my control board by trying to replace the oven light without turning off the breaker :) and then it popped and sparked and killed the oven basically but the stove top still worked. replaced the control board but now it asks me to set and then takes me to numbers ranging between 200 and 0. i have no manual and have no clue what any of this means. my model number is JB6R45K3SS

The latch for the upper tub of my dual washer broke. I pried it out, is this a user-replaceable part, or do I need a service call?

https://imgur.com/a/5JjvgCE

So, I have an air fryer that I'm pretty sure the problem is a blow thermal fuse, I still have to test it to confirm, but the problem that I'm having is that the fuse is connected direct to a cable and while searching a new one to buy I see that they come with their own cable. My question is:

How do I connect the new one? I doubt that electrical tape won't melt before it gets hot enough to blow the fuse and I'm not sure how safe is to use a solder that contains lead that will be in close proximity with food.

The dryer is only a few years old, but it randomly started doing this a few weeks ago. The settings are just all over the place. Doesn't matter if it's running or not. I pulled the back off, unplugged everything to the board, and plugged back in just to see if it was a loose connection issue. It seemed to help for about 20 minutes and then back to this. Does this look like a main board issue?

https://imgur.com/a/YyLPj7K

My side by side Fridgerdaire refrigerator is falling apart. The seal is falling off, the handles are loose and ice maker stop functioning. Is this a DIY project to fix the issues or call an appliance repair company. No warranty and limited money for repairs. Refrigerator was purchased 2015.

Whirlpool - 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer with Steam - White, Model: WED5050LW, SKU: 6468666 (Best Buy)

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/whirlpool-7-0-cu-ft-electric-dryer-with-steam-and-moisture-sensing-white/6468666.p?skuId=6468666

My almost 3 years old dryer is making a loud noise while it's still running. It comes on for about 5-10 seconds, goes away for few seconds, then comes back again. It's kind of rattling/vibrating noise. The dryer is leveled, and has not been moved. Clothes come out dry, but I have a feeling it will fail if I don't do anything about it.

Anyone know what it must be and how to fix it?

I have a video, how may I post it?

Its an old r12 refrigerant montgomery ward upright 13.1cu ft freezer. The compressor literally never shuts off regardless of thermostat setting 1 through 7. There is no evaporator fans or anything its just a compressor and evap coils in the freezer. The coils are clean and not iced over. Im not familiar with these older models; is that just normal operation?

Believe I have a circulation pump failing based on the drain being clean and turning smoothly and when the unit buzzes in the cycle.

Date code indicates 2014. Is it with putting $250 in parts into or should I just replace the unit?

It’s a 500 series model. SHE53TF5UC/02

So I was boiling water this morning and heard a really loud pop. The timer and clock were still on but now I have no heat to any of the burners or the oven. It appears the small heat indicator light literally exploded. It's a "newer" glass top with front controls. It's been one of those weeks. Any advice is so appreciated.

My Samsung stove/oven stop heating both the flat top and the oven within a day of each other. Flipped the breaker and tried reset. It has power so I’m at a loss?

Hello all, long and short of it, I have to replace the drive hub.

Ended up having to cut the wash plate out because of this gear head (is that what this is called?) and now I cannot get the gear head out. I already have the new drive hub and wash plate ready to go, but I CANNOT move forward.

I rented a gear puller from AutoZone and tried this method but it ended up just bending the hell out of the bolt.

What else can I do here?! This thing WILL NOT BUDGE. I have let CLR sit on / inside it, PB Blaster, Vice grips, 5 ton Gear Puller, but am at a standstill.

Washer Model: wtw5000dw2

Pic 1 (after wash plate is fully off)

Pic 2 (side angle with plastic bits still on)

When I close the door it locks into locks into place, but when I click start the locking mechanism won’t catch and it throws a de2 error. Does this mean I need to buy a new door latch?

Hi! I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue on our wash machine. It's a GE WHDSR209G9WW, just a basic run of the mill top loader.

Clothes are sopping wet at the end of a cycle as if it isn't spinning. However, if I reset the cycle, turn the dial to spin, and hit start, it spins and drains perfectly fine.

This washer doesn't seem to have a filter. I'm pretty sure nothing is clogged, since like I said it drains fine once I manually activate a spin cycle. It's doing this with full loads and nearly empty loads, so it's not a balancing issue.

Does anyone know why it wouldn't be completing the spin cycle at the end of a full wash cycle, but spins perfectly fine if I activate it manually?

Thanks!

I have a moffat MPE12FSKSB fridge. I came home one night to find everything thawed and the fan constantly running but no signs of life from compressor. I replaced the fridge but if anyone can help me fix this one, I'd like to donate it to help someone else if its not to expensive. I'm pretty handy and have plenty of tools.

My Maytag dishwasher started to smell late in a normal dishwasher cycle. I thought it was electrical or melted plastic, but upon inspection I found melted sound dampening material. See imgur link below. I rerouted the clear plastic tube so it is no longer in contact with the dampening material. It definitely feels like this tube is melting the dampening material. Why is it getting that hot? The water inlet also appears to be leaking. Also leading me to believe that the water is too hot.

It still smells very bad when I run it, so my plan is to replace the tubing and the grey plastic water inlet. I suppose I should cut out the melted sound dampening material with an exact knife. However I am concerned this is not solving the root cause.

https://imgur.com/gallery/melted-sound-dampening-material-NrTOg1z

It worked perfectly for a few days after the shift actuator replacement. Now I get a loud screech when it agitates. Just on the agitate pulse and no other cycles. Sounds like nylon gears stripped out or something.

Could this be a bad shift actuator? Google isn’t much help this time.

Replaced the start relay and overload capacitor with the 2 in one. Worked well. Compressor kicked on and it was cooling down to temp. Left it overnight, and it is no longer down to temp.

The compressor kicks on, I can hear it, but then it stops after awhile and doesn’t cool down. Yesterday, before I replaced the relay, I smelled a burning smell. Could that have been the condenser fan’s final cry? I’m assuming I need to replace either a condenser fan motor or evap fan. I didn’t hear any odd noises or whining. Any idea which I should replace, if either? Thanks

Hello, just moved into my home and had a good washer in storage, hooked it up and the first thing I did was just run a spin cycle only. To flush out any bug and other crap since it's been sitting for 2 years and 6 months. The model I have is an LG Waveforcedirect drive WT4970CW.

The drive tries to spin and jitters but never actually spins. The coupling looks fine, just took it off. And it does move into place as intended.

I can't attach a video, but anyone can help would greatly appreciate it

Our fridge (Kenmore 795.78543.804) has tears in the door gaskets where the French doors meet. The gasket replacement number is 4987JJ2002S but it and all of the other colors of the same part I could find are discontinued and unavailable.

I’m not looking to get a new fridge if I can help it since everything else works great, and it seems crazy to have to scrap this one because I can’t find a new gasket. Can I use butyl or flex seal tape on this? Any other options?

https://imgur.com/a/AE7nFlW

We had a new GE dishwasher installed about 18 months ago and everything has been fine until recently. We are now getting intermittent "failure to drain" errors. I cleaned the filter, disposal is empty when trying, etc.

It's possible the line is partially clogged or something but I'm wondering if having the drain line looping on the floor before going into the cabinet is a normal installation? It's basically pinned under other parts of the dishwasher as I can't really move it.

Our fridge started making this humming noise out of the blue last night and I woke up and it’s louder than when it started. We’ve had this fridge for 7 years. The sound goes on/off every 10-15 mins. The fridge seems to be cooling still. Frozen food is still frozen. Cold air is still blowing and the noise isn’t always there when the air blows inside. Model number 111.73025711.

Worst timing for it to start dying.

I can’t get my Samsung refrigerator to start making ice again. Help?

Model: RF27T5201SR/AA

Tried:

1. Breaker off for 2-3 minutes
2. Check water pressure
3. Reset ice maker with test button
4. Waited 24 hours