I have a Moen 1/2 HP garbage disposal that was stuck. I reset it and freed the rotating disc by pushing it with a flathead screw driver.

It works now but makes a clicking noise whenever it starts and stops. Is this normal?

https://streamable.com/k2ftsm

This loud single "bang" usually happens shortly after a cooling cycle. Any ideas on what this is and if it's fixable? Really don't want to replace this huge unit that works totally fine otherwise!

I moved into my apartment in July 2023 and it came with a fridge that already had a messed up gasket. Over the past few weeks it has been making this loud knocking noise every so often, didn’t think much of it. Over the course of a week i noticed that my fridge is not keeping things cool at all.Today after being out all day I come home, and my milk has spoiled. Everything is starting to get warm. My freezer though still works but loads of ice is building up in it. I reached out to my landlord to see if it has warranty or if he has a receipt, answer was no. I live in NJ, so landlords aren’t responsible for appliances or repairs of appliances. I called Sears to have a technician come to look at it tomorrow but I want to know if it’s worth repairing or just to buy a new fridge. It’s a GE fridge btw , two doors top and bottom. Doesn’t even look like it’s more than 5 years old. What do you guys think?

Hi,

I’m trying to fix my small breville mini oven. It started buzzing recently, begins buzzing right after starting a cooking cycle. If I give a bang with the heel of my hand next to where the buzzing is (by the control panel) it stops. Any ideas? The design makes it rather difficult to pull the entire casing away from the side so I can’t quite tell what’s going on.

I would hate to throw this out, but the buzzing is annoying.

Thanks so much!

I'm using the oven and let the door slam a little too hard at which point I see sparks top center around the control panel. So I take the top apart and don't see anything obvious, a little more looking and one of the wires that goes to the interior light as come off and the socket shows signs of heat damage.

Since I don't use the light, I'm not going through the trouble of replacing the socket and my plan is just to cap the wire. Question is if I can just use an ordinary wire nut and electrical tape or do I need to find a high temp nut and tape?

Thanks!

Hi I thought I would ask here as someone here might be able to help me out. A couple of years ago I bought a new whirlpool dishwasher. It ended up getting badly scratched. In the past I’ve had luck taking a scotch brite and going with the grain to remove scratches. This time not so much. In order to get rid of the scratches I removed most of the coating in some areas, so now it looks blotchy. Not only that but the coating on it doesn’t appear to be a clear coat as it kind of comes off in clumps and makes the surface very ruff. So I assume this is not a clear coat but rather some sort of baked on coating?

I would now like to strip it completely and try to re clear coat it or have a vinyl put on it so it’s not so ugly. Anyone here have any idea on how I can remove the coating? I feel like acetone won’t do it because it’s like a baked on plastic. Anyone have any experience with this? Another idea is to sand it all off evenly but the more I sand the more ruff it gets.

I guess I should have just dealt with the scratches 🤣

Just moved in and I’m seeing a burn/spark mark near the three cable connection (the part attached to my dryer.) We think it was because our dryer breaker was still switched on when we powered our main electric panel off and on. Is this repairable?

Hello all. First time asking anything on Reddit. Been messing with a dryer. The element seems to be getting unlimited power. Even on the delicate setting, the element will just heat and heat and heat until the high limit thermostat trips. The issue is constant at all dryness settings. Worked on it a few times before, I've replaced a couple of high limit thermostats. But this time I though it was the element itself. Ordered one, put it in, and it got so hot after 8 seconds it burnt the coil in two. I don't really know which direction to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Model pyet444ayw

Our six year old lg washing machine has suddenly started to make a grinding noise during the spin cycle. It is functioning normally otherwise. It fully finishes the wash cycle and drains properly etc. Just looking for some direction as to what the problem and fix might be. See video below.

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/938864087

• Refrigerator is warm: 45-48 degrees
• frost on the back of the refrigerator compartment behind the drawers
• when the refrigerator started warming; humidity dropped inside the refrigerator significantly
• freezer is working excellent
• vacuumed all the coils on the bottom
• repairman stood me up today

I’m ready to start replacing parts. Anyone have ideas on where to start ?

I have a GE dishwasher (GDP665SYN2FS) I bought back in 2020 that I actually never used. We had an extension to the kitchen where the dishwasher was going and had delays with cabinets and then installation.When we ran the dishwasher for the first time after having a plumber hook it up, it flooded the kitchen.

It took us a while to get someone else to take a look at it. We had a general contractor come to do some work and had ended up looking at the unit to see what was flooding. He noted that the plastic housing (over sump mold) had a broken mounting clip by the impeller/drain pump assembly and asked us to purchase a new impeller. He died in 2022 suddenly and we didn't get around to doing anything with the dishwasher.

We're expecting our second child and hand washing isn't sustainable. I turned over the dishwasher today and took a closer look and it appears that I actually do need to replace the entire assembly (over sump mold), not just the impeller piece.

I'm adding photos in the comments to get an opinion and see if I can do it myself. I'm handy enough to change parts in my dryer, but when it comes to pumping specific, I try to steer clear.

Inglis model ITW4600YQ1 has blown 2 boards. I have replaced the drain pump and shift actuator. It ran for a week and approx 6 loads then quit and it now doing the same thing. The board smells burnt. Where do I go from here??!!

I spilled soup in my Fridgedair Gallery, and it got in between the glass and the plastic frame (the shelf that holds the produce drawers). When I pulled it out to clean it, the glass didn't just lift out the way all my other fridges have done-- there's a 1/4" plastic lip on the top and bottom holding the glass in place. There were a few screws, so I took those out but there was no obvious way to take the frame apart.

Looked up the manual-- nothing. Called Fridgedaire, they had no more clue than I did and wanted to charge me to send a tech out to get it apart. Finally gave me the number to my local tech, who looked up the exact part number. She said the frame is molded around the glass and there's a bunch of clips holding it in place that I would almost certainly break if I tried to pry it open.

I ended up just running the whole thing under water for ages which took care of most of it, but I really hate that I can't clean this part thoroughly. Spills happen. A defrosting turkey could leak everywhere.

I complained to my mom, who said her GE fridge is the same way, and apparently this isn't an unusual way to make this part anymore. So now I'm wondering if I could find an after-market alternative? In the age of 3-D printing this doesn't seem impossible, if unlikely.

Also open to hearing how people clean these things.

Fridgedaire Gallery GRFG2353AF1

Hi, my wife recently cooked rice with hot water on GE stove burner. We used a normal sized stainless steel pot and now there is a speckled circle of discolouration in the centre. It hasn’t gone away in a few days. What is this? Is there a solution?

So about a month ago, I got an F8E1 error on my Kenmore washer. I took it apart and checked the continuity at the valves. Cold water side was bad.

I replaced the part, put it all back together, and it worked alright. I say “alright” because it seemed extra noisy. I’m not sure if it was when filling or draining, but I could hear it extra loud through the wall at certain parts of the cycle.

A couple weeks in, it stopped working again. Same code. F8E1. Low fill. I just got back into it today, assuming that the inlet valve I bought was faulty and had gone bad again.

Well, there was continuity at both sides. I pulled the screens and they were relatively clean. Knocked a couple pieces of junk off of them and put them back in. I ran water through both hoses into a bucket and water was flowing well through both.

Reconnected everything, making sure there were no kinks in the cold, hot, or drain hoses. Tried to run the washer again and same issue. It maybe sounds a little strange to me in sensing mode but I’m not 100% sure (I’ve never paid this close of attention before lol). Then it drains, goes silent for several minutes, and switches to the Wash light but nothing happens.

Any ideas? Is there something I could have damaged when I replaced the water inlet? Maybe pulled too much on the drain hose when moving the washer, and what would that do/does anyone know how I could diagnose it?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated, thank you!

I installed a new timer because it was going just past Cool Down put would not go to Off. It still does this even after replacement of timer. Anyone know what issues this might be?

I have a whirlpool side-by-side freezer fridge. It has and ice maker and water in the door. Recently I had to empty the ice bin and ever since, our bin will NOT fill up. I've removed and put the bin back in multiple times to no avail. I've turned the ice maker off and on, checked where the water comes into the freezer, checked the water lines etc. Today I was in the freezer when it sounded like it was pulling water in to make ice but it sound weird, like a dripping and hissing almost. I checked at the bottom towards the back inside and it looks like some kind of small leak there? Any ideas on what this could be or how to fix it?

Our 1 yr old DW80R9950 will not dispense the soap. I changed the entire module and it worked for a while but soon the door on module will not open.

I've changed from pods to powder and ran diagnostics with noerror codes. Even gave a repairman 100 bux and he had no clue.

Any of you techs have experience with this?

Looking for some help please? Fridge light stopped working today so purchased new 15w bulb, it's actually for an oven but it should work from my research. Fitted it but no joy. Checked switch for continuity and that was fine. Checked new bulb on cooker hood and it worked. Fridge appears to be working otherwise. Checked voltage at switch and getting around 3v when closed. Bulb holder is facing inwards so very awkward to get to, I tried to read the voltage but couldn't get both pins in. With the positive alone and opening and closing the switch, it reads 1.3 when open and the it drops to 0.1 when closed which confused me but I'm a complete novice so not sure what to expect or what could be wrong. Unless it requires a special fridge type bulb.

Hey guys,

I have a 500 series Bosch washer from 2004 that is vibrating heavy on spin. We’ve replaced the springs and shocks and feet. The bearings are all in good shape and there is no obvious issue with the drum when we hand spin it. Any advise on where we should check next?

Hi, so I've has this Samsung gas dryer for 10 years. I opened it up, cleared all the lint out. The vent is literally 6" to the outside so it's not clogged, checked anyways. Hot air comes out just fine from the vent. I've changed the moisture sensors, the thermister and the thermostat on the dryer with a new samsung genuine ones. The problem is it takes 3-4 hours to do a basic dry cycle. It'll keep going but cut off after 2 hours, then I have to run it again. I've tried time try and it's the same issue.. it takes forever. I've tried with smaller loads and it still takes a long time. When I open the door it's quite hot inside as well, so i'm baffled. I do have moisture on the door glass as it's drying. Anyone have any ideas before I get a new unit?

I have been given a microwave but noticed it has a dent in the side.

You can see the light from inside the microwave through a gap where the dent is so I'm worried it could be leaking microwaves?

Has anyone else experienced this issue or know if its safe to use?

Thanks in advance!

Hi there - I have a 15-year old Maytag fridge and it lost it's ability to cool - this happened a few days after a power outage in our building.

When plugged in, it would have an intermittent clicking noise. Fans are all working. I did research on this sub and watched some Youtube videos. I thought it would be the starter relay, so I purchased a new OEM one and it still does that. I'm now ordering a new capacitor to see if that is the case. I also tested the prongs of the compressor and the numbers I got add up.

Is it normal for the compressor to warm up (but doesn't seem to make much noise/hum) when I've plugged it in. I'm worried that it's the compressor that is broken, which means new fridge in this case.

Thanks in advance for your help/tips!

I have some electronics experience and am proficient at soldering. I'm just not sure if I'll be able to identify what microchip or switching module controls the light. And would I even be able to get a proper replacement? I found the control board for sale for about the same cost as replacing the microwave so that seems pretty pointless if I can repair it easily.

​

Just moved into a rental and the refrigerator makes a strange “howling wind noise” any idea what could cause this??

I have a GE washer WFW95HEXW2, Washer keeps throwing an error code E01 & F09.

When I start a wash cycle it will run for a couple minutes & then will stop and make a ( ring/ring,Ring/Ring). At that time it will start showing the error codes .

Last night I took the back of the washer off , and removed the drain filter and cleaned it. There was only a few coins in there.

After that, I took the rubber piece that was connected to the bottom of the drum off that helped drain the drum cleaned it out sucked it out also sucked out drain pipe that is in the wall behind the washer.

As well as sucking out the drain line inside the washer , ran a clean cycle after everything was put back together and still receiving the same issue.

Any help would be much appreciated .

Having trouble with my Bosch SilencePlus 44dBA dishwasher MN # SHP6555UC/07. The unit did not drain after the wash cycle. There's a lot of water inside the bottom of the unit. I have no error code just a rapid flashing rinse aid indicator. Filled rinse aid reservoir, but rapid flashing rinse aid indicator light persists. I've pulled the dishwasher out and confirmed with certainty drain line is not blocked. Checked and made sure the interior filter is clean. Have tried a soft reset - held start button for three seconds with no result. Tried a hard reset by leaving unit unplugged for more than five minutes with no result. I checked the flood control reservoir at the bottom of the unit but that is bone dry. I did notice a persistent ticking noise with the unit plugged in coming from the detergent dispenser. It's almost like the cycle is stuck in the detergent dispensing phase. It just keeps clicking. Not something I've ever heard before. Does anyone have any suggestions for diagnostic testing? Starting to wonder if I have covered everything before considering control unit replacement options. Thank you to anyone for their time, insight input.

Hey all,

I have a used Dishwasher that has been running faithfully for 2 years. Recently, I stopped the cycle to listen to something I though I heard in the home, and when I resumed, I heard a slight sizzle sound and witnessed a small amount of smoke. I'm pretty sure it was smoke and not steam, because I smelled it. The cycle was just moving from Water Miser to light wash. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I may need to replace to get this working again? I'm comfortable working on appliances and whatever else breaks, and have access to a good local parts supplier if needed. Thank y'all.

When the wash cycle begins the dishwasher is now making a higher pitch noise than usual. Any ideas?

Edit: There aren't any error codes.

Our stacked washer and dryer sits on a small closet in the second level of our house and the spin cycle makes the house vibrate. I’m planning to install anti vibration pads or a mat but the space is pretty tight. Any thoughts on how to go about it? The dryer is attached to the washer and the connection is on the back

https://imgur.com/a/1bE7KiM