I have an older Whirlpool refrigerator (classic over/under, freezer on top with no water line connected to icemaker) that has had an issue with dripping water (from the freezer) inside to the refrigerator part. (There is no visible ice, frost, or leaking inside the freezer section without removing the inner freezer coverings.) Once the water drips inside the refrigerator section it runs down to the bottom under the crisper portion and freezes solid. Items in the fridge are _very_ cold, but liquids like water and milk generally do not become frozen solid.

The unit's cooling setting is set to just under halfway (just under the "normal" mark/about 40%).

A repairman came, removed the freezer's inner plastic floor and back to reveal 1/2" of ice on the floor of the freezer (which he did not remove), and said "the drain line was frozen". When asked if there could be a malfunctioning component that could be causing this to happen every few months he shrugged and said "fridges just get old and some models you have to unplug them for a few days every so often to keep this from happening".

Without _any_ other troubleshooting he defrosted the drain line with a steam tool, gave me an invoice, and left.

This is the second time a repairman has been called (from the same shop) within several months time. It is my understanding from light reading that there are a few components that could be causing this such as:

-A burned out defrost heater

-Malfunctioning defrost thermostat

-Fault defrost timer (if a model has one)

-Defective defrost control board (if a model has one)

-Failed main control board

My issue is the repairman didn't troubleshoot any components (for the second visit in a year or so) that could be root cause of this issue, and rather than look for the actual reason for the frozen drain line, he is only addressing the symptom of the leaking and ensuring future service calls once the drain line eventually becomes frozen again (their labor is only covered for 30-days).

I called in and complained to the appliance repair company, and a dispatcher (after some back-and-forth) agreed to send someone back out to "look at the unit". I would like to ensure that the repairman actually tests the components that could be causing this issue, and fix the problem. Am I missing something here ? Is this within reason ? Am I out of line by asking the technician to troubleshoot what could be causing this recurring issue ?

Any help is definitely appreciated!

I’m not sure what is wrong with my washer. I got it 2 years ago and it just recently stopped working. It was making a noise where it sounded like it was draining with no laundry in it and now it’s making this grinding noise and won’t turn on. The grinding noise starts and stops all throughout the day. Model#WTW4955HW3

So I'm having an ongoing issue with my fridge freezer where I keep having to completely defrost it because the fridge doesn't maintain its temperature, defrosting it sorts it out for about a month and then the fridge warms up over a couple of days until all the food in it needs to be thrown, then I defrost it and start again.

Last time I noticed that there was a build up of ice around a section at the top of the freezer, when I unscrew this section and look inside it's got lots of thin metal plates and in between these it was just solid blocks of ice, I'm pretty sure it's not meant to be like that is it? It must stop the cold air convecting through what I guess is the coooling plate? Anyway I defrosted all of this and turn the fridge freezer back on, and it's been working fine for about a month, with the fridge maintaining a low temperature.

Anyway the last couple of days it's happened again, it seems like it's all frozen up in there, and the fridge freezer once again isn't maintaining temperature. However this time I noticed the the freezer door seal has got a massive gap, and that's the area where this ice build up in what looks to be the convection unit is. So would it be safe to assume that warm moist air is probably getting drawn through the gap, into the convection unit area, condensing into water and then freezing causing this ice build up?

I've managed to bodge the gap by using rolled up kitchen roll in the seal bellows to push the seal so it meets the frame when closed, and the freezer door seems much firmer to pull open than it did before.

What I'm asking is if my theory makes sense? Any practical tips for fixing it properly? (I bought a new door seal a while back but when installed the freezer door doesn't seal at all, it's like the seal has no magnetism whatsoever.

The fridge freezer is old as heck so I guess the door may have warped, the gap is fairly substantial at the top, but we're avoiding replacing it as we want to move home and want to buy ourselves a really nice fridge freezer when we move.

I was swapping my Kenmore Fridge Freezer combo to have the door on the other side. I thought it might be fairly straightforward but instead it took me hours. Turns out:

1. Whoever used this previously loved to strip and over-torque non structural screws.
2. For some reason there were a number of Torx screws in addition to Hex.

So it took me much longer than anticipated and I got stressed, did not take proper notes of how I took it a part and most importantly I am not sure I have all the parts.

Thankfully, i've got a 3D printer so I can make some of the parts and source the others. I just dont presently know what I am missing.

Anywho. I checked. The top of the fridge door, the hinge coming out in between the two doors, and the top of the fridge have about the same tilt. The top of the freezer door does not.

What is going on is that it is sort of sagging. As a result when you try to close it it brushes up against the refrigerator door. I am not really sure how to tighten it to make it swing correctly.

Inbetween the two fridges is a double sided hinge thing with a post. I put one plastic brushing above it before this little bracket thing... which I am not sure I installed right. Then I used 3D printed brushings to attempt to prop it up.

On the top the bracket is firm however one screw's threading fell through or something as I cannot presently screw anything into there.

What might be causing the freezer door sag?

I uploaded a ton of photos of the fridge and its hardware, some with levels and a square edge. Let me know if you need to see more of it.

Hello,

I have a Kenmore Series 110 washer (110.82781100) from 1988 that the previous owner of my home bought from Sears. I have the receipt that she left behind.

It stopped working yesterday. I smelled a burning smell and it will no longer spin. It still fills and drains. When I tipped it on it's back, It's got oil all over the transmission (photo), so that appears to be the problem (unless there's something else with oil in that I don't know about). Couple questions:

1. Is it basically the same machine as all Kenmore 110s? It looks the same as 110s from the 90s, based on videos, just an older styled cabinet/controls.
2. It's from 1988. Is it still worth fixing? I see a lot of "fix the Kenmore" type advice online, but how far back does that go? the transmission appears to be about 250 dollars.
3. How do you ensure the motor is okay? If I drop 250 dollars on a transmission, then find the motor is also bad...how can I be sure I won't also need to do the motor?

My Whirlpool Stove/Oven (YWFE530C0ES) recently started clicking buttons by itself and today it completely stopped working with the error code F1E2 flashing and a constant beeping sound. While this error code was happening, the oven door also locked itself. I was able to stop the beeping by either holding Cancel to mute the sound or completely unplugging the appliance.

Here are a list of things I've tried so far:

-Turning the circuit board off in the house for a while (~10 minute) and turning back on

-Unplugging the stove for a while (few hours) and plugging it back in

-Open the back of the stove for a few hours to let out any moisture that might have cause this issue (I live in a very dry area in Canada so there's usually no moisture build up)

-Remove the wires connected to the control panel and re-connecting them

-Remove the control panel (Part Number: W10734596) and checking if there's any moisture or burn marks

None of these have resolved the issue. I was hoping to get some help before I go ahead and buy another control panel. I have no experience in fixing ovens and this is my very first time. Hope I can get some assistance, thanks in advance for everyone's time and efforts <3

I checked door switches and they are good, the rest on the circuit besides the motor is electronic and there’s not much I can do to test that that I know of. The motor is testing at 22ohms and the spec is 15-19, I just want to be able to check this fuse before I order a motor. The drain motor isn’t coming on except for once in the past 4 test cycles. I don’t do enough 120v stuff to know for sure if the motor being 3ohms high is enough for it to not pump. It feels okay. Model MDC4809AWBO Thanks!

I have a Samsung Dishwasher - I think DW80CG4051SRDW80CG4051SR but don't quote me, that's just from a web search for a similar-looking model. Towards the end of the cycle, the leak sensor starts going off. I took it away from the wall and found a small amount of water in the bottom pan where the sensor is located. (More water pours out when I tip it to check the pan but I think that's from turning it on its side.) What should I do to try to isolate, diagnose, and fix the problem?

I have a humidifier (Crane 2 in 1 ultrasonic cool mist 1.2 gallon one). I plug it in, the light turns on and it makes noise. It makes mist in the basin but it wont come out of the top of the humidifier for a while then a massive stream comes out for a minute and then stops. The power button blinks a blue light when I press it for a bit and then stops. It doesn't do anything. Im so upset, I'm just a broke college student with anxiety who needs her humidifier to sleep. I can't afford to replace it. I got it from Canadian Tire in september or october of 2024. Please help, I am so upset, I am going crazy aghhhhh.

Hey guys, after a couple of days of pounding away at this thing, I finally broke off the old plate, what I was left with was this sprocket which I thought would slip into the new plate, only to find that my new plate already comes with a sprocket built into it. Are there any tips to removing the old one? Really hoping my bloodied fingers aren't for nothing :/

https://imgur.com/gallery/removed-agitator-plate-now-have-this-sprocket-any-tips-on-removing-91WwLwf

I have a front load washer that’s less than a year old with two different noises. One video is the wash cycle, second video is the spin. Haven’t taken it apart yet, was hoping to order appropriate parts before starting. Broken/cracked magnet, belt, bearing? Any advice would be appreciated.

https://streamable.com/dmie1q

https://streamable.com/o8i4gr

I've had this issue for several weeks and bought two different sets of replacement lights but it still didn't fix the issue. Originally started as the lights flickering and after looking into I read that one of the bulbs is likely out. They were all flickering at the same time so I just swapped them all out. Two different sets and they're all very dim but they're on full brightness for about a second when you open the fridge. Goes dim right after. Not sure what the issue is at this point and would prefer not to have to call someone out and pay them to fix it if the issue can be fixed with a simple part swap, whatever that part may be. Model number of the fridge is in the title.

hello! im not sure if this is the right subreddit, please let me know if not.

i was just making a pizza and there was a clicking noise during the entire cooking time and a weird smell. it has done that before so i didn’t think much of it. near the end of the cooking time i had enough of it and took the pizza out early.

smoke started to pour out of the oven and i immediately took out the pizza and opened the windows. the top of my pizza is BLACK on the top, even though i took it out far too early.

my entire house smells like rotting smoke and burning plastic!!!

if anyone knows what happened here please let me know!!! should i be worried about gas/anything else i should be doing?

thank you !!!

edit : i just realized black soot came out of the top part of my oven - probably what ended up on my pizza!!!! what is happening!!!

hello! i couldn’t find a clear google answer to this, but recently my mom took off one of the knobs off from the stove because she said it wasn’t working and threw it away. is there any harm to that? should i be worried about a possible gas leak?

Bought a Samsung fridge 10 years ago the ice maker took a shit and it was out of warranty so I moved it out to the garage. It has now just stopped work the lights come on but not the front panel just the lights. The compressor isn’t coming on. It’s not in demo mode because the led lights don’t come on. How do I get it back up and working

Is it possible to get small appliances fixed? I hate the idea of throwing away a water/ice machine because of a small fix it needs.

As the title says. My washing machine is stuck on, it's stuck on spin mode specifically. Regardless of what tbe dial is set to, it spins even if it's pushed in, it only stops when the lid is open. The past few weeks it hasn't drained all the way according to my mother, who initially noticed that it was stuck.

The machine is a Hotpoint with "9 Clothes Care Cycles - 2 Wash/Spin Combination" it only has 3 dials. 1 for load size, 1 for temperature, and one for wash mode.

I'm going to unplug it and let it sit for now. Any advice would be appreciated.

My dryer stopped working and I took it apart myself with the help of YouTube. I’m not sure what this piece is called that’s labeled 29 and I got a new one off amazon with no instructions and I’m not sure how to take off and how to put the new piece on. I see it has ridges but not sure how to get it off. Thanks in advance! Ps I have a Kenmore series 200

I have no heat or steam. The heating element is fine it tested good. The thermostat itself the small circle one that rests against the tub. It will not let me upload pictures. I could use some help finding the correct one. I have been searching and I am not having any luck. Thank you !!! I can text or email pictures of the part. I am having trouble getting the links to load.

https://imgur.com/a/lUICnn7

WA45T3200AW/A4

Hey guys, I started a load of laundry and could hear grinding noises after the barrel gets full of water and begins to agitate. I drained the water and was able to freely spin the barrel and agitator with no grind noises. Then, I did a test run with no clothes and the grinding persists.

I took the top agitator plate off and wasn’t able to find anything that could create the grinding noise. When I looked underneath the washer at the pulley system, there’s two little white gears and one seems loose. Does anyone know if they’re supposed to be engaged/if they’re damaged? I ran the washer with just water and the grind isn’t the worst it’s been but still there(in the video). If anyone has any ideas I’d love to hear them! Thanks!

I was quoted $600 dollars (parts $400, labor $200) to replace door switch and control board assembly for gas samsung dryer model dv42h5000gw a3. Dryer is gas and about 5 years old. I was able to find these parts myself online for about the same price. Was wondering if the group would (i) try to repair this myself, noting I've never repaired an appliance (ii) replace the entire dryer for about $850 or (iii) go with the appliance repair man.

Any commentary is appreciated - thanks all

Hi my maytag washer has been stuck on sensing. I turn on the washer on any cycle it says sensing and then its stuck on sensing for about 5 minutes and then the timer just starts flashing. The machine makes kind of a grinding sound, doesnt suck in water, the lid doesnt lock, and doesnt give an error code any help would be appreciated 🙏

I've got an LG LRMDS3006D refrigerator with an extended warranty from squaretrade. We've had nothing but problems since we purchased it in 2021. I think the problem is the compressor. I have it set to -2 for the freezer and 35 for the refrigerator. The freezer will only get to 20-30 and the refrigerator will get to 39-40. We've finally got them to replace the unit with the same exact model. Do you think the new one will have the updated compressor or is it possible I'll get the same piece of crap. Thanks for anybody's insight.

Hi all

I'm looking for help finding a replacement double micro switch for a trash compactor. I'm in Australia and about 15years ago my parents bought a insinkerator brand trash compactor which has worked well but now has burnt up its double micro switch and the manufacturer no longer sells spare parts. I took it to an appliance repair shop (hence why I'm calling it a double micro switch) and they said they'd never seen a part like it but I was hoping someone here might be able to help or at least educate me with what things I need to search for in order to find a replacement part my self. I am fairly handy generally but in trying to fix it myself first I blew 2 fuses in my house by connecting what I thought was a grounding wire and secondly shocked myself on something else so any help would be much appreciated. Below are the best details I could get.

The part I'm trying to replace I think is called the top limit switch (as per the wiring diagram that I can’t seem to post here) and I think first it stops the motor retracting the compactor and then reverses the direction so it starts compacting next time you flip the switch.

And thank you ahead of time any help would be really great don't want to throw out a whole machine for one bad part.

Starting to look at options for a discontinued/out-of-stock main control board for the KitchenAid KGRS807SS000 Oven/Range.

We replaced the ignition module and oven ignitors but still can’t get the gas oven to work.

Open to any recommendations. Thanks in advance!

Here is my previous post where I had an issue with ice in the freezer section.

https://www.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/s/kJ63JXShAQ

I was able to fix that in the freezer along with the icemaker, all have worked flawlessly until today lol.

While I was at work, apparently the freezer stopped working and we lost quite a bit of food. Freezer section definitely isn’t cold or working, refrigerator part seems to be OK although I have a slow thermometer in there trying to get an idea of the true temperature.

Any idea what might be damaged or wrong before we actually call a pro? I was careful to put everything back together properly and vacuumed out the back area as well. The whole unit was actually running better and quieter we thought until today.

Team, did my best to troubleshoot a bit before running here for help.

Fridge is cold, freezer is cold, water dispense from the door, no ice is being made. No water is in the ice tray. The hose feeding the ice tray appears to be clear of obstruction. I fit 6' of weedwhacker wire down it. Not clear if anything is frozen. I used the hairdryer on the water line, the solenoid housing, the exposed lines on the back of the fridge, and even hilariously through a straw as targeted through the hose above the ice tray as possible. Multiple restarts.

The fun stuff:

1. If you google this model and find a PDF of the diagnostic codes, they are for a newer version. My fridge, bought in the ancient times of 2019, has a completely different set of codes. Here for future posterity is that older list:

https://i.imgur.com/dVPVyi5.jpeg

Code 39 and Code 47 both show the thermistor status as OPEN. Some of the stuff I've read indicates that means they have gone bad?

Code 48 does the thing and the ice bucket turns over to drop ice cubes.

Code 45 displays 01, and then will not respond to the commands moving to 02/03/04. My guess is that indicates something is wrong with the ice tray and it cannot move to the home position. Could is also possibly be something wrong with the pumps/solenoids that feed the ice maker?

2. While getting the trim off the bottom to find the above codes, I noticed that this set of wires leading to the door is split. Does that look normal or is there something wrong?

https://i.imgur.com/jxt2GvD.jpeg

When motor plugged into MCU it trips GFCI when motor circuit gets power . I unplugged Motor from MCU and it drains, fills, all fine. MCU does not show obvious issues. Motor windings ARE within range. No binding w washer. Motor spins fine. Im thinking MCU ? What do you think? Anyone can amswer. I just feel like a more exp Tech may have better understanding.

Looking to get some insight on an issue with my frigidaire ice dispenser. I recently got a new to me used frigidaire LFSS2612TF0 and the ice dispenser doesn't work. When you push the paddle to get ice the motor hums but doesn't spin, it had sat unplugged for a couple days before I got it so it was definitely defrosted. I've tried removing the ice tray and putting it on the crushed ice setting and got the same results, I also tried lightly hammering the end of the motor that connects to the auger to see if that would help but no change there either. I got this fridge from a friend of mine who said the ice and water dispenser were never used because they have well water so i'm assuming the motor is just locked up and needs replaced but I want to see if there are anything other things it could be before I throw parts at it.

The family range’s power burner is not igniting. There’s no audible gas release on the initial “simmer” knob adjustment to catch the spark, and once the knob rotates to the outer burner adjustment, there no existing flame or continuation of the spark to ignite the gas that finally releases.

The outer ring can be manually lit or ignited with the spark setting on another knob. The inner burner still has no gas.

Is there possibly a clogged orifice and a technique to clear it with a needle, etc, on this KGRS807SSS00 Oven/Range?

Hoping for a plan before making the trip. Many thanks in advance!