/r/Plumbing
A place for plumbing advice and help. Do not advertise or try to compare pricing.
The society which scorns excellence in plumbing as a humble activity and tolerates shoddiness in philosophy because it is an exalted activity will have neither good plumbing nor good philosophy: neither its pipes nor its theories will hold water.
-- John W. Gardner
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No spam on our sub, only questions, photos, and original content. This includes YouTube or videos for views, meme posts, or any advertising/self promotion. Will result in a ban. 3. No quote requests/second opinions on pricing
The best way to find out about pricing is to call plumbers in your area and request quotes. Anonymous internet plumbers who have no stake in your job (i.e. accountability) are not the right folks to ask regarding the cost of your job, what you already paid, a bid or quote, etc. 4. PICS PICS PICS
When asking questions please post pictures of the problem fixtures and piping, this can help enormously when it comes to diagnostics. 5. Chemicals
We do not find chemical drain cleaners conducive to good upkeep on most plumbing systems, we do not encourage their use at all; in fact, we may make fun of you for wasting your money buying them and possibly risking your well being for using them. 6. Advice warning
Please take all advice with a grain of salt and be willing to do your own research. at the end of the day it is from an anonymous stranger over the internet. Our verified users should have pro flair and tend to have better advice, but anybody may end up responding. 7. A note to plumbers
Regarding Pro flair: Message the mods with an imgur link showing your plumber license, along with a scrap of paper with your username on it, to prove that you are a plumber. Once we receive and verify that photo, we will grant you pro flair. Something to note: The people working in your local big box store are often too cautious to say "I don't know", so they may give you bad advice. You shouldn't hold anyone's opinion as fact unless it is a REAL plumbing professional that has seen it first hand.
A note to plumbers: Regarding Pro flair: Message all the mods with an imgur link showing your plumber license, along with a scrap of paper with your username on it, to prove that you are a plumber. Once we receive and verify that photo, we will grant you pro flair.
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/r/Plumbing
First off- apologies, no photo. Phone is taking forever to synch and I'm hitting my fatigue wall; I wanted to post while it's on my mind and before I'm too tired. (I have to do things when I can.)
I cut my hair with the lowest guard a few days ago per medical advice. It's shorter than a quarter inch, probably more like an eighth of an inch, but was a very thick head of hair. Much of it came out in tonight's bath. This was expected eventually as a side effect of a current medical treatment I'm doing, though I thought the process would be more gradual and I was told it would start a little bit later than this.
Additional context is plumbing is not on septic but is high elevation with below freezing temperatures starting a few weeks ago. (House thermostat is set to prevent frozen pipes.)
My question is: if the hair is about an eight of an inch, will it flush through the tub/pipes OK on its own, or do I need to do special maintenance now considering that so much came out tonight? Seems like I could flush it OK with a two tubs worth of water, but I just moved in and don't know how much hair build up there may already be in the pipes. Thanks!
It typically happens at night and it’s loud enough to wake me up. Building is pretty old, built in 1912.
We live in a quake-damaged house ( long story ) so happy to get a plumber in to fix … but hopefully it’s
Double sink bathroom. Left sink has expected hot and cold shutoffs. But. Hot and cold lines have Ts that return back through the floor and each has a shutoff. The shutoffs don’t affect any other tap in our 3 story house.
Incidentally the right sink has single hot water line with expected shutoff. Oddly the cold line has the same double shutoff which I’m anticipating is the shutoff for an outside water tap. (Yes goofy I know and they used white pex everywhere and red pex to designate the two outside tap lines….i dunno the brilliant mind behind that. Guess they had no blue pex)
Anyway. Anyone have thoughts/guess on the whys of the plumbing configuration in the image.
I'll start by saying that I know the likely culprit is a leak in the yard but this meter is acting strange and I want to know if anyone has had a similar experience. The flow rate will sometimes show 0 but other times will show varying, small amounts and will sometimes even show small negative amounts. The meter is not showing any alerts.
About a year ago the local water utility installed one of the electronic Hydrus water meters. Everything was fine until about a month ago. The meters report water usage every hour and for the past month every hour at least 1.2 gallons has been used. All the normal checks have been performed, ice maker is off, dye test on the toilets and nothing seems to be leaking in the house. The supply lines run through the attic and the house is on a slab foundation. If there were a leak in the house that water would have to show up somewhere. The house is approximately 40 years old and there are no pressure reducing valves or backflow preventers as far as I know. There is not an irrigation system. There is grass in the yard but no unusual green spots. A plumber came out and took a quick look around and suggested that we have the utility check the meter. The utility company said they'd get back to us.
I've been checking the meter periodically to see the flow rate. Sometimes, but not often, it will show 0 for a while (I've never watched it for more than a minute when it is at 0). Every time it has showed 0 has been between 8am and 2pm. More commonly it will show values between -0.15 and 0.2, with values between -0.5 and 0.1 being most common. I have recorded some of the values below. The times are in parenthesis in seconds. The flow rates are in gallons per minute. It appears that the meter display updates every 4 seconds.
Do these meters have calibration issues? Could varying water pressure from the utility be confusing it somehow? Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
(0)0.02,(4)0.04,(8)0.10,(12)0,(16)0.05,(20)0.06,(24)0.08,(28)0.09,(32)-0.04,(36)-0.15
(0)0.04,(4)0.03,8(0.04),(12)0.1,(16)0.04,(20)0.04,(24)0.03,(28)0,32(0.04),(36)0.07,(40)0.03,(44)0.02,(48)0.03,(52)0.03,(56)0.01,(60)0.01,(64)0.01,(68)0.07
(0)0.03,(4)0.00,(8)0.03,(12)-0.04,(16)0.03,(20)0.00,(24)0.02,(28)0.00,(32)0.01,(36)-0.01,(40)0,(44)0.07,(48)0.09,(52)-0.02
(0)0.03,(4)0,(8)0.03,(12)-0.04,(16)0.03,(20)0,(24)0.02,(28)0,(32)0.01,(36)-0.01,(40)0,(44)0.07,(48)0.09,(52)-0.02
(0)0.03,(4)0.00,(8)0.02,(12)0.03,(16)0.19,(20)0.12,(24)0.08,(28)0.01,(32)-0.02,(36)0,(40)0.08,(44)0.02,(48)0.03,(52)0.01,(56)0.02,(60)0.02,64(0.04),68(0.01)
Seems easy to make just wondering what fittings are used for it. (Not sure if it's a special fitting with some float valves?)
Made a fluid extractor already and now I'm thinking of making this one to make brake fluid change much quicker/easier.
The purpose of the device is that once you fill it with brake fluid, you can then leave it on top of the brake fluid reservoir. The device itself will auto-refill it to the correct amount without overflowing the reservoir as you go around bleeding your brake fluid system.
Hi
Is it normal for the water level to be about the same height as the overflow tube?
On the tube itself, I see a marking which denotes "water line" but the water sits above it. In my examination of the tube there was no overflow of water falling into it
Should I make any adjustment here for more optimal performance? I have also noticed the bowl takes some time to fill up after a flush
I’d like to get my dryer more flush to the wall but the way our gas line protrudes from the wall makes it impossible. Can a plumber reposition or shorten the gas line so the dryer can be moved closer to the wall?
New-ish homeowner;
This part of under my bathroom sink is slowly leaking when i use the water handle above it. The tap also leaks slowly even when the handle is in the off position.. which is how I stumbled upon the issue under the sink.
I turned the water valve off for now just in case for that water handle.
So I've lived in this 2022 house with no issue until tonight when I noticed the upstairs toilet had slight water around the rim of the bowl, and had slightly shifted away from the caulk seal. I took the toilet off to check the flange. I didn't get a picture of the wax ring, but it did not look bad.
But what has me concerned now it that flange is about .7" below the tile! I thought about getting one of those Oatey steel repair rings to place over this one, but why would the builder install that so low??? I want to also use the blue rubber toilet gasket instead of another wax one.
I am trying to figure out if that gray stuff in and around the mounting screws was excess pipe cement or where the builder broke the flange and tried to fix it and hide it, but I really can't see any obvious damage, but I am no expert. I didn't see any other obvious problems (bowl side bolts were snug)
Not one to overreact but would like to make sure I have all that I need to fix this myself unless the shim factor is going to be an issue, as I build my Lowes shopping list. TIA!
What's the easiest way to clear it out? I already tried turning the water main on and blasting through. Not even a trickle. 70 PSI. It looks like the softener installer turned the inlet on too quickly and blew resin into the water lines. I was able to scoop out maybe 4" worth of it out of the end of the pipe with my knife. wondering if it's possible to vacuum it out?
So I’ve worked in service plumbing since 3 years ago and I’ve enjoyed it thoroughly. I gained a lot of experience as well but sometimes I really feel like I’m missing out. Ever time I go for trade school and do these rough in projects I feel like that’s the type of plumbing that will give me the best experience. My company unfortunately is very bent on sales and this sometimes results in sacrificing quality of work. There are many jobs we turn down simply due to difficulty and it sort of bothers me. I want a challenge, not just easy money. As backwards as it sounds. I just don’t know if it’s smart for me to switch sponsors as I’ve heard it can be a pain. It was tough finding an apprenticeship to begin with so I’m afraid of making a mistake. I genuinely don’t know what to do. Should I stick it out with my company until I’m licensed and then branch out from there? Do I switch now so I get that experience before writing my C of Q?
There's a crack in my supply line's connector (to tank) and caused slow water leak. I went to HD to get a new line. I double check the line spec made sure the new one is identical to the old one: 3/8 in. Compression x 7/8 in. Ballcock Nut. The only thing that's different is the length of the line 12 inch vs 16 inch as 12 is not available.
The installation was easy, but the supply line doesn't send water to the tank anymore. I am pretty sure the shut off valve is not closed. And when I lose up the connector (Ballcock nut) water spills out immediately. I did not touch anything inside the tank, did not even move the tank cover.
Any thought?
How bad is this, and how do I fix it?
My concern is that there appears to be a solid puddy holding the washer drain tube in place, and I thought this was supposed to be open.
If I do open it, there is no P-Trap where it goes into the drain, so won't it fill the house with gas?
I intend to install a water softener system, but my basement does not have a floor drain. In my research they say I can tie it into the same place the washer drains. But after further research about how that is done, I found this.
So I turned the P-trap around, and rotated the garbage disposal and it seems to line up much better. My only problem now is getting the nut on the backend of the P-trap. Does anyone see any any other issues with this set up?
I dropped something down the sink and need to retrieve it, I was told to remove the P-trap to do so.
However I’m having trouble identifying where to unscrew? I can easily unscrew where the blue arrow is but I’m not sure if the orange arrow is the second part I’ll need to unscrew because that part is quite difficult to loosen
Any help is appreciated
I recently purchased a property, and the local water utility is telling me that I’m responsible for paying to extend the water main to my property....what would you do?
The issue is that there are already two existing water service lines running to properties immediately to my west. However, the utility insists that I need to cover the cost to install a main extension, referencing this Public Service Commission (PSC) rule:
“Service will be furnished only if (1) the premises have a frontage on a properly platted street or public strip in which a cast iron or other long-life water main has been laid.”
My understanding is that my property does have frontage on a street where a main has already been laid. But they argue it requires direct frontage on the main itself.
Has anyone dealt with this type of situation before? Any advice on how best to handle or challenge this requirement? Thanks for any insight you can offer!
The heating and hot water work fine. The pilot light comes on for a few seconds then off and repeats like that for the entire timer. It has never done that before. Pressure sometimes looks under 1, sometimes over 2.
I’ve bought a building that has cast iron drain pipe, had it scoped prior to purchase and everything looks good from the inside. I’m doing some remodeling (updating the bathroom and adding a stacked thin twin washer/dryer). Picture is the existing pipe, looks like theres a 3 1/2 stamped on the outside of the pipe. Not thrilled with the current tie in for the sink drain to the stack, doesn’t appear to be a wye to me and the angle for the pvc that comes off of it is a down slope. So anyway plan on redoing that as well. My question is does anyone know where I can order a double wye to replace this fitting? (Washer drain will be off to the left of the pipe, bathroom sink is off to the left). I feel super comfortable with pvc but I’ve never worked with cast iron, is this part I can get? Also is this something I can handle myself? Or should I get a pro to install the double wye and then I can pick up from there?
Thanks for any help or suggestions/directions. Oh and lastly in Florida if there’s any code issues I need to be aware of.
Am I even in the right ballpark with this set up? The ptrap doesn’t really line up with the downward pipe from the disposal. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
In preparation for winter I closed the 1/2" ball valve under my kitchen sink to shut off water to the hose bib located about 6 ft. away in my garage as I have done in prior years.
However after draining the initial water out of the hose bib it kept dripping (approx. 1 drop per second), so I left the hose bib open overnight with a bucket underneath and by morning there was more than a gallon in the bucket and the fixture was still dripping at the same rate.
The shut-off ball valve looks to be working normally otherwise (no leaking through the packing nut/handle etc.) and the hose bib in the garage also seems in normal working shape.
Could anyone give me any guidance on the following:
1.) Does this mean the ball valve has failed and needs to be outright replaced?
2.) The ball valve looks to be sweated onto the pipe and is also in a pretty tight space with another water line less than an inch behind it at the closest point. Is it worth it for me to try and DIY fix or should I call a pro (I'm assuming $250 to $350)? I'm fairly handy but have limited experience with plumbing aside from using drain snakes and replacing p-traps.
3.) If I were to replace the valve myself, does it look like there be enough space to install a compression ball valve (See bottom left in the pic below)? I know sharkbite ball valves are pretty divisive, but I could also use that if if easier given the length of pipe on either side & close proximity of the other water line behind.
Any insight/knowledge/wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!