This a follow up to my previous post https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/s/2F498b5UFi

In short, I’m adding a bidet, and because I’m adding a T adapter, the distance between the valve and the adapter is shorter than before. Thus, the white hose is bent and puts downward pressure into the valve and the pipe coming from the wall.

Does this looks risky? What other options do I have to prevent putting pressure on the wall pipe?

Certainly replacing the valve is one option, but from the previous thread, sounds beyond my abilities.

I have 2 bathrooms to completely redo in my house. I am a generally capable tradesman (mechanic by trade), but plumbing is one thing I have not taught myself yet. So the question is, what is the best method to get started into, without needing thousands of dollars of tools. Copper and solder? Copper and progress? One of the many different types of pex? I believe I am going to need to do some soldering regardless for the shower heads and valves as I paid a plumber a lot of money a few years ago to replace my shower valve set and he used pex from the valve to the head and now the head dribbles.

Note that all fixtures will be staying in the same spot so I don't have any huge amount of work today. It will primarily be redoing the tub spouts, valves and shower heads. No I will not be using shark bites.

Was using the chisel to get out the old broken flange. It was SOLID. Unfortunately in the process these two pieces chipped off the joint. It almost looks like I could get them cemented back where they go, then the new flange cement would take care of sealing any cracks remaining in that spot. But that’s just thinking out loud. Is that doable? Is there another solution? Time to call my plumber?

Hello, curious for ideas, i have an apartme nt that i am turning over. The rear room was a sleeping porch that was enclosed to be additional interior room. Problem is, it was never provided a heat source, and the original system was a radiator system. Can i just tap into the existing system (2 pipes, tee'd into the return and supply as appropriate?)

Its copper around the boiler itself, but the original radiators and piping are iron, making it much more diffjcult to tap into. Not impossible, but the boiler room is immediately adjacent to the rear room. Unhelpfully, that rear room has a solid concrete floor, making it impossible to run anything through.

I have a small farm and irrigate pretty regularly with my existing garden hose outlet. I have a pretty deep well with a pump and water quantity isn’t an issue. My current system runs the hose water through the same system as my house water, going through both a carbon filter and UV light. I’d like to bypass the water treatment, as my outside water doesn’t need it and it causes me to burn through filters way too fast. The simplest and cheapest solution would be to simply hook a hose up to the drain valve of the pressure tank. I have the infrastructure to use this set up just fine. However, I want to make sure I’m not sacrificing anything at the well or pressure tank level using the drain valve as a regular outlet. My amateur brain tells me it’s all the same, but maybe I’m missing something since the drain valve is below the current main system, so the gravity could have some kind of impact on the flow. Hopefully that made sense.

I've tried different fittings,the JB weld putty,I'm stuck calling plumber just isn't option would really appreciate any tips or ideas thanks yall

What causes a disposal to leak from the bottom of the unit?

I’m installing a bidet, but the existing white hose is too long and rigid to attach to the new T adapter. It puts too much pressure on the pipe coming through the wall if I try to use it.

How can I change that valve so I can install a flexible hose?

Hi! I have this open pipe in my kitchen sink, the sink area smells like the sewer from time to time. Does anyone know what this is for?

So I’m trying to replace my rigid water pipe and replace it with a flexible on. However, upon loosening the bottom nut, and top part from the toilet, I can’t pull it out. It looks like the pipe is permanently sealed into the main. Is this common or am I missing something?

I’ve mentioned this already, but my 50 gallon, Rheem natural gas, power vent started leaking at the 8 year mark.

Some people claim AO Smith is great. Some vote for Bradford White. Others tell me the brand doesn’t matter and they’re all the same.

I have a couple questions.

Do you believe any brand is better than any other (Rheem, AO Smith, Bradford White, Richmond, etc)? How much experience is your opinion based on?

Who sells Bradford White water heaters to consumers?

Does anyone know how to get the thermostat out of this shower module?

YT has made it look easy, with it being pulled out with grips. This didnt work and there’s no grub screw holding it in.

If anyone knows make/module too that’d be great. TIA

The thing with the name "Bomn???" Maybe a spin down sediment filter?

I do not have access to the location to get a better look at it.. trying to help a relative who is house hunting. TNX!

https://preview.redd.it/kvjisiihjjge1.jpg?width=1657&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5680d7d7a74e3c36d63c8959ab8a97e5bd783f43

I have a replacement flexible hose but I can't seem to get this quick release, pull/push thing loose.

I added some WD-40 but still nothing.

Any help is appreciated.

P..s it's from a Franke cooking water tap.

I have 2 toilets blocked. Water swells up when flushed but goes back down within 5 seconds. I have another 2 toilets upstairs which are fine. One of the blocked ones are also upstairs, the other is down stairs. Noticed when filling the sink in the upstairs bathroom and draining that, the toilet in that room bubbles with air. This seemed to start this morning when the wife was in the shower, I could hear the glugging noises. Ive took the plunger to the shower aswell and unearthed a hand size clump of my wifes hair. Doesnt seem to have helped any of the other blockages. Advice please!

I’m replacing our handheld shower but it is still leaking. Thinking the issue might be in this part, but I can’t find a new one easily online. What’s it called and what does it do? Any reason not to just connect the hose to the spout directly?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm trying to hook up a shower trap with a waste pipe.

the shower trap output is 40mm, the waste is 1/2" I have a 40mm to 1/2" adaptor, but the adaptor means there isn't enough room for the 40mm solvent weld pipe. What would you do?

https://preview.redd.it/hzpm6ef2ijge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce6c19a2afd4fc820adea0118f3a92f9b8a1688e

https://preview.redd.it/nqgovdf2ijge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f9fdccbe6f8c2c34afd1611bbb4478caca46bfe

I work in a marriott hotel w 151 rooms . We recently noticed one side of hotel struggling to get hot water . We been replacing valves but continues to have lukewarm water . What should i do next

Hi dad, I have a bidet sprayer and I usually can uninstall it very easily when I move but it's stuck to the toilet line (pretty sure I used my hand to attach it but it won't give and wrench is useless). Help?

I had a leaking water service line to the tune of 35,000 gallons per month, though no pooling water or sinkholes in my yard. When I shut my house off, the water meter would still spin and I could hear it through the pipes. This would resolve when I shut the water off at the street. I've had two plumbers confirm the service line leak and have scheduled repairs ($10k).

The other day when I shut the water off at the street, the meter kept spinning so I and the county come out to replace it. After the meter was replaced, I no longer have an issue. The meter doesn't spin when I'm not using water and I can't hear water running through my pipes.

Is it possible this was the issue all along? I don't want to spend $10k if I don't have to. What else would cause this phenomenon?