/r/ApplianceTechTalk
A place where appliance techs can get together to talk about the problems we're seeing, where the trade is going, and just talk in general.
Appliance Technician? If so here's a place I came up with for us to get together to trade ideas, ask questions, share information and just help each other out on the newer problems and for newer techs out in the field. All technicians are welcome, we can all help each other out in one way or another.
Sub Rules: 1. Be a technician 2. Don't be a dick 3. No Spam 4. No Politics or religion 5. Instant ban for any violation
/r/ApplianceTechTalk
Don’t work on much Thermador so this double oven is kicking my ass. F64 error code when either upper or lower oven is ran. Checked for 2v voltage at board, voltage is present when fan is running. Want to quote customer on a board but would hate for my diagnosis to be wrong and be stuck with an expensive board.
Model SEC302BP/02
Lmk what yall think TIA
For the past 3-5 years I've been having almost every commercial client buy Speedqueens when they don't want to do a repair. Now I'm starting to get more and more repair calls on them. I get they have the 5 year warranty. But even then, these companies don't want the downtime. Anyone know what the hell is up? A lot of them have been control related. Most are the TR3 series.
https://appliancebot.zapier.app/
Lmk what you think/how it can be improved!
My nephew works in Fairfax county Virginia . His employer recently announced they would not be replacing their commercial appliance repair person and that the regular maintenance staff would be expected to take up the slack. My question is, if he is going to be working on large commercial gas appliances doesn’t he need some type of certification? He is willing to do it to keep his job but is nervous about having no real experience with gas appliances of this type. If anyone knows I’d appreciate some feedback , he tried looking the info up on the county code site but got bogged down in all the information without getting a true answer
I have a Kenmore VMW that the customer states runs indefinitely. I pulled codes and found none. Zero. Put into auto test mode and it worked great. Put into manual test mode and repeatedly activated mode shifter trying to force failure. No problem. Bearing, motor, pump, etc. All sound great. I even ran a recalibration. In other words, I have done everything I can do to identify a problem and cannot. I left the unit and explained that I couldn't duplicate the issue.
Next morning, customer calls to say that it ran for 4 continuous hours before they shut it off. I don't see any service bulletins on MSA for this either. Any ideas?
Has anyone tried igniters on Viking ranges that work made by another company?
I thought Robertshaw made a replacement?
So I’ve been running service calls thru 3rd party warranty and collecting all the reviews I can get for my google page. But it’s surprising slow as it’s ever been especially around the holiday. My question is how to do I attract more organic customers so I don’t solely rely on 3rd party for my business to survive.
KitchenAid Refrig Aurora Board
Should i be getting anyting at 'communication' port? I do have supply voltage at board 12.7v. All lights are out. I suspect one of the LEDs in EACH circuit are out now as customer states 'one part was already out'. Should i even be concerned of board . Only thing is that 'communication' port. Im thinking of brining the LED and just replacing...checking as i go. As they are in series if it works it may be ok. Also the small U.I. is out on the drawer. Its under the refrig but over the freezer pull out drawers. What do you guys think?
Has anyone had issue w quality of parts lately. Marcon sent me this. Had a hole in it already! Had MARKINGS likely noting the defect post production. If we installed it they would have likely some leaking.
Our company has been getting damaged, defective parts, some boxes messed up stuff scraped, from that company. We have other accounts but try to keep more channels open as sometimes there are advantages w multiple vendors.
Just found out today the company I work for has filed for bankruptcy and I'll be out of a job in a undetermined amount of time. Just curious about what your guy's opinions are about working for a manufacturer vs a warranty company or if there is one I should avoid - which one offers better compensation and benefits. Any insight is welcome as I'm a newbie to the industry, just over a year and a half.
Can't log on and when I called I got a voice mail saying leave a message, followed by "this mailbox is full".
I also would like to know if anyone has a better source than MSA for service manuals and service bulletins etc. Their search engine is horrific.
Model SSBB363RS
Anyone know if the freezer drawer can be adjusted up and down or is it basically fixed and can't be adjusted?
I'm having an issue where Viking now makes the lip of the door gaskets 50% smaller and the lip is now BARELY making contact with the cabinet at the top. It curls under and air is leaking in. For a better visual, it's as if the drawer was now sitting half an inch too low and only about the top 1/8th inch of the lip is contacting the cabinet.
When I first unboxed the gasket I thought I ordered the wrong gasket but then I read the instructions
"Part Number PB070289 replaces PB970134 Notes from the manuf.
Please Read Before Installing New Gaskets
All Viking door gaskets are produced in a updated, thinner style, known as service gaskets. The new style service gaskets for all Viking refrigeration products have better ply-ability and reach-ability for improved performance.
The new gasket may be thinner AND APPEAR DIFFERENT than the original gasket
However, the channel they install into, remains unchanged. We recommend having an AUTHORIZED Viking Servicer install your new gasket."
No mention about the lip of the gasket also being smaller and that an adjustment of the drawer is needed.
I could not see a way to adjust that drawer upwards other than drilling new holes in the bracket that holds the face of the drawer. Hoping I'm wrong
Model rf28hmedbsr
If I unplug the refrigerator for a few minutes, then plug it back in, the actual temperature on the display will show 35F ( which it is since I confirmed it with a thermometer in the freezer), and it will show 0 for the set temperature.
As it runs for several minutes the actual temperature on the display will start going down. Everything is looking real good , but here is the problem.
After a while ( say an hour) the actual temperature on the display will show 0 yet the freezer temperature is now in the 20's and this is where things will stay and the display will show 0 for set and actual temp
My first inclination is that the freezer thermistor is bad but what throws me is that if I recycle power to the refrigerator, the display will then show the proper actual temp again. If the sensor was bad then the display should show 0 again for actual temperature.
If I change the set temp setting from 0 to the lowest possible which is -8F , the actual temperature on the display will start decreasing and within about 30 minutes the display will show -8F as the actual temperature even though the thermometer in the freezer is now around 20F
Again, why does it show the correct actual temp after recycling power but only for a short time then goes to 0?
Thanks
My friend and I run an appliance repair company in Los Angeles. We worked at a big appliance repair company for 3 years before deciding to start our own business. Right now, we have 5-star reviews on Google and Yelp, and we’ve been building our reputation by delivering high-quality work at fair prices. Things are going well, but we want to expand by becoming vendors for more property management companies.
We’ve tried cold calling with no success. Currently, we have five property management companies that found us through Yelp, and we get a lot of work from them, but we want to grow more and hire additional technicians. Does anyone know any tips or strategies for getting more property management clients?
What are these entitled people that think they can just clog people's schedules like that?
(Also, I'm talking hours difference. Not Company A scheduled you a week/two out. Lady got an 8am appointment next day, and wanted to save a couple hours.)
I replace a lot of Samsung suspension rods. However, I’m noticing some discrepancies in part numbers and lengths of rods. Samsung has said nothing I can find about changing the length of factory rods. However, today the ones that I took off a customers machine were 26”. The replacement rods measured 27.5”. The machine seemed to do okay. I’ve had it before where replacing with the 26” rods cause the machine to stay out of balance.
The only thing I can find is the part number for the two sets of rods is the same, except the letter at the end. Factory original is a U and longer ones are a W. Samsung usually changes the last number when it has been upgraded.
However these long shocks make the tub set down a lot further and leave a gap that the customer sees and they don’t like.
Has anyone else seen this?
Today I was at an LG gas dryer ( DLG3401W) and the customer was getting the TE-1 error code about 30 seconds after starting the unit no matter what setting it was on. I tested the thermistor up to the board and got a normal reading of about 10k ohms. The diagram on the cabinet says there's supposed to be a 5VDC output to the thermomistor and I was getting a reading of 4.36VDC. I determined that the board is the issue, but I want a second opinion, because I'm wonder if that small difference in output would make a difference and create an error code to trip.
Thanks
GE model GTD3EASK0WW, heats but cycles way to quickly. Not a venting issue, I ran it with the vent disconnected. So, with the dryer cold, both coils come on at initial start up then the outer will shut off after about 5 seconds followed shortly by the inner. Element is cycling between 98 degrees and 115 degrees air temp. Both coils test good for continuity to the common, but they also have continuity between themselves, is that normal? I'm about to order a timer and a heater for this one and call it a day, any other suggestions?
I've been in this trade for 15 years and never had a partial heat problem unless it was a gas dryer or venting issue.
Do y’all braze or lokring 600 systems?
Does anyone have the specifications (resistance at room temp, resistance at 32F) for thermistor part number WPW10511923? This particular one is from an under-counter ice maker.
Have a customer who purchased a Maytag front loader model MHW6630HW about 12 months ago. From day 1 she said the clothes were not spun dry enough. She always has to run a drain and spin cycle after EVERY load.
She didn't mention this to me until she had the machine for 6 months. I of course I told her to call Maytag since it's still under warranty.
The tech ran diagnostics and found a stored "suds" error and tested the machine and told her the machine is draining fine and spinning like a champ and blamed her issue on using too much soap.
I told her to run several short cycles without clothes and without adding detergent, to clear out any soap buildup , then run a load with clothes and no soap.
Same result. The clothes are just not spun dry enough. I actually checked the clothes and if I wring an item by hand really hard, I can get water droplets coming out of the item.
So as a last resort I decides to actually watch the washer as it went through a quick was cycle , which is the cycle they use 90% of the time.
With 8 minutes left, the washer drains the water from the tub. When it gets to 5 minutes left it slowly starts to spin , gradually increasing rpm's but never gets to full speed. Probably gets to around 80% of max rpm. With 3 minutes left, the washer stops spinning and displays " DONE".
So now I realize that the customer is correct because the machine only spins for 2 minutes and wastes 1 minute of that revving up to only 80%.
So I ran the machine through a "Normal" cycle and with 18 minutes left the machine started to drain the water then went into spin and at the 15 minute mark it stopped and displayed "DONE".
I wrote my findings down and told her to call Maytag and show the tech what I wrote.
He ordered a control board and came back and replaced it. The machine does the same thing as mentioned above. It is now out of warranty.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm baffled. The short spin duration is not intermittent . It does this every time. It's not an out of balance issue.
Sorry for the long story and thanks in advance.
Recently fixed GE profile fridge (PGSS5RKZSS). 14V PSU on mainboard died and didn't have replacement capacitors on hand to do PCB rework. Cut PCB trace so no power to dead PSU, soldered wires to output +/-, connected my variable voltage lab power supply set to 14v and presto, fridge back to working and confirmed issue. Shove back in cubby, no spoiled food, customer is happy. Got everything back "the way it should be" later with right parts.
What's the concensus on hacky fixes (EG:connect an external power brick as a permanent repair). Things that change the appliance wiring diagram basically? Bypassing the on board power supply is very tempting because that's a universal fix for PSU issues + keeps some heat out of the control board enclosure too. Hacky as hell. Thoughts?
Also, does anyone else do PCB rework during service calls? Very convenient when you have the parts on hand and it's a simple fix (caps or relays).
Like we all know r600a is being rolled out in new fridges faster than Samsung ice maker dying. With new gas sealed system jobs will be breeze since no brazing. Tools needed cost arm and a leg for sure but it’s worth it. Now comes the part where we need to be more careful about dangers of the gas as well. Even though it’s 40-70g of gas per fridge but it’s still only a small mistake away from explosion. R600a compressor has mineral oil which can absorb 30-40% of the gas so don’t braze a system even if you’ve bled the system. Also invest in spark free vacuum pump. Parts on the fridges are also spark free so don’t replace with similar parts because you want to get unit going for the customer. We were told in whirlpool training that someone did it and evap had a small leak. When the fan started back up the spark ignited the gas and blew up the whole kitchen. So be careful out there.
Not a lawyer but from what I have gathered so far doing a Google search, "Casual advice given on a personal social media page is less likely to result in a lawsuit than advice given on a platform where you are perceived as an expert or professional."
Keep this in mind when giving advice guys. What got me going down this rabbit hole, was a question someone posted about a refrigerator issue and it ended with the question "is it still safe to use?" Thinking back now, there have been several posts in the past that I replied to that asked "is it safe to use?". I'm now going to answer those questions like an attorney, not a tech..lol
I am working on a GE fridge Model# GYE22GYNFFS that isn't cooling adequately, basically the freezer and fridge are the same temp. I suspect it is a compressor issue, however another tech worked on it prior to me and no one is certain what exactly they did, (nice elderly couple). Now I am NOT an appliance technician but i do have my EPA card and know my way around a refrig system, so I told them I would take a look.
This might be a little wild but I am starting to think whoever worked on it last put the wrong size compressor in, the compressor currently in the unit is an Embraco # EM3D50HLT, which is a 1/5th HP compressor. Best I can tell from looking online the recommended replacement for this model refrigerator is Embraco # EGD60HLC, which I believe is a 1/4 hp even though I cant find the cut sheet for it.
So my question is does anyone know what size compressor is supposed to be in this model refrigerator and is the EGD60HLC the correct replacement?
Certain LG machines, specifically, don’t use an RPS that I can tell. I am curious how, then, the motor control determines the position of the rotor.
Curious if anyone knows the answer
Edit: the board is able to monitor back emf in the stator to derive rotor position.