Does this sound like a good price?

Also is this Bosch model good for cold climate? I'm located in northern Illinois

Hi all,

Seeking opinions on the difference and which is better between 2 units. One company is offering an AC Pro X Series Slim Line Inverter System 3 ton 17 seer (furnace, Condenser, coil).

The other is offering lennox single stage 3 ton 17 seer Condenser with the furnace and coil. The exact model or series number was not provided, but I think it's elite.

I understand lennox owns ac pro. But I'm stuck on lennox because that's what is being replaced, and this ac lasted us 17 years in the desert in California. So brand comparison is a thing.

Also, I'm concerned by the cost of the Inverters usage. We have edison out here, which they can really stick it to u in the summer. We probably use ac 5 to 6 months of the year, and heat MAYBE 3 months. So I'm wondering is having the Inverter would be more costly if during the summer it would stay on all the time most likely.

Also, what's the average charge you see or charge for duct cleaning?

Thanks in advance.

I’m looking at very small apartment, but the ones I’ve seen don’t have heating or cooling available combined. I live in the south so our winters aren’t awful. I’m having a hard time choosing between a window AC unit with heat pump available or a portable AC unit with heat pump available. Both of them say heating won’t work below 41 F, but I thought if the portable one is indoors it’ll be less likely to be affected by outside temperature. Idk if the outdoor temps affect window units any more than portable units. The window unit is Midea and the Portable unit is Black and Decker both on Amazon, and both 12k cooling/10k heating. Thanks ahead of time.

Does anyone know a quick fix for my brand new Mitsubishi MLZ-KP09NA AC that has the operation light blinking 9 times then stopping for 2 seconds? I tried switching the circuit breaker on and off but it’s still blinking.

Can I vent a portable ac into the interior wall? But not all the way through like the space in between? I don’t want a hole in the side of my house

Hi everyone, I just moved to this unit that has a brand new Mitsubishi either MLZ-KP09NA, MLZ-KP12NA, or MLZ-KP18NA indoor unit. It was working fine until this morning. Now it won’t cool or heat the room and the operation light keeps blinking. I tried restarting it on the remote a few times but it is still not working. Any suggestions?

Need some advice, i have some questions about split system

I have two bedrooms next to each other about 100 sq ft each room I am about to install split ac unit for the rooms

Should i get one-two zones split unit or two- single zone split unit? Any advantages for one or the other?

How many btus should i get for the room size?

What brand of split unit should we get?

Thank you

I work in the oilfield 14 days on/14 off, when I’m gone I’ll turn set the thermostat 5 +- my normal temp. Yesterday when I got home I turned the ac on to 69 and the temperature didn’t budge.

The condensing unit is working, I’m getting flow from the vents but it’s cool not cold. Used a solvent spray and rinsed it off very well, still running into the same issue. It doesn’t appear to be iced up or any obvious signs, any ideas on what it could be or things to trouble shoot before I call a tech?

Okay. So I add a room to an unfinished basement. Drywall, electrical, the works. Including tying in a line to the HVAC. Does that room need a return to the HVAC as well since it’s not airflow connected to the upstairs, just an output?

If so, what’s the best way to do that on a budget? I also don’t have much of a space to add one in, so what’s the smallest return I could put?

Edit to add: the main line already has the return. When we bought the house, it was inspected and the return upstairs is the correct size it needs.

I just tied into the line running to the most unnecessarily cold room. The tiny ass kitchen has 3 vents—one of which is under a cabinet. I tied into that vent to steal a bit of its airflow.

I get a bit of cold air from it, but not an outrageous amount.

Please help— the humidity in my house is driving me crazy.

Thermostat is Honeywell TH9320WF5003 Wi-Fi 9000 (pic from Google attached / not my thermostat)

I’m in south Texas and I run hot, so at night I usually set the temp to 69° or 70°. For the last week or so it’s suddenly been very humid in the house. Not sure how accurate it is, but the thermostat has been showing a humidity level of 68-73%, which is pretty high from what I’m reading online.

Also, all of a sudden most of my outlet covers are starting to come up off the wall. I read that this could be from high humidity.

Any advice is greatly appreciated! + please take it easy on me, I don’t know the first thing about this stuff 😅

Title. I have my stats set on a schedule to lower setpoints when my electricity is cheaper. Because of this, my compressor tends to run when it’s cooler outside. Right now it’s 60F outside and nighttime, and it’s 76F inside upstairs trying to cool to 74F. My stats have been calling for cooling constantly for the passed hour, but I’m noticing that the discharge at the register would sit around 57-58F and fan will be running normal, then 3-4min later, fan will slow down to a recirc type speed and discharge will rise up to 61-62F, then 3-4min later, I hear the compressor outside kick on and the fans ramp up and discharge comes back down to 57-58F. This has repeated itself in 7-8min cycles for the last hour.

This only happens at night and not during the daytime when it’s running. I can’t tell if the cooler temp outside is causing too much temp differential at the condenser and causing a freeze condition at the evaporator, and/or if this is perfectly normal and the system’s just somewhat oversized and needing to stage on and off because it’s reaching discharge temperature in its minimum run state. Either way I’m assuming I should be concerned if it’s cycling 10 times in an hour, right?

hi all- i have a daikin envi mini split in my new apartment. we’re having a heat wave and i need to use the AC. the unit is set to turn off when the internal sensor tells it the room is 65 degrees, but the room is definitely NOT 65 degrees. I have a fan with a sensor and it says its 78 in here. can the sensor be recalibrated? id rather just not use the sensor at all and keep it on until i want it off, which is how a previous mini split i had workd. how can i override this sensor mode and just make it stay on until i turn it off? thanks!!!

The capacitor went out on our HC30D2VAR air conditioner. It is an extremely old air conditioner, but we are moving in 2 weeks so I don't want to drop a lot of money for a new one or too much to fix it. I'm having trouble finding the capacitor for this brand. Does anyone know what I can do?

Hello all,

This model was gifted to me without the vent adapter and it is no longer made by LG

Any ideas how to connect a hose to this vent? Can I just cut out a template then use a smaller square vent adapter for the hose?

Thank you!

Our installer originally said every other year, but then the company reached out saying they should be serviced twice a year. We use Mitsubishi hyper heat mini splits for our primary source of heating and cooling, located in NH if relevant. Just want to know what we actually need. I vacuum the head unit filters every 3 months. They never look very dusty when I clean them. We've had them for a year now. Thanks!

Hello.. I just installed a new thermostat and now when I put it to “Cool” it only runs warm air. There is a jumper between the R & RC slots. I attached the photo on how I have it wired can anyone tell me the correct way to do it? Coming from the wall is a blue, black, green, white, yellow, and red wire. I only have the red yellow and green attached

I live in the greater Phoenix area. I have a 2 story, 3,000 Sq. Ft. home. Downstairs A/C went out. A vendor from work quoted me $8,400 for a Trane. I am not positive if it includes the air handler. Is this a good deal?

I own a small 1940s single story cinder block 1250 sq ft house. Due to space constraints (and after the old HVAC died), I moved to a packaged unit. 3 tons Coolermaker I believe. It’s worth noting that several parts have broken down over the years within the warranty period. Not sure how old the ducts are but were deemed to be okay from the HVAC crew and have been checked on multiple occasions.

Florida summers get pretty hot. My 1940s house doesn’t have contemporary insulation and to mitigate this, I’ve gotten double panes windows, attic/under house insulation, and a new light colored roof.

Despite all this, when the temperature goes above 90, the house gets as high as 82 with the AC on full blast. Utility bills are predictably insane.

The only thing the HVAC guy mentioned one of the times he had to fix the unit was that the air flow (floor vents) was “meh”.

My wife and I are at a loss on what to do. Am I missing something or is there something impactful that can make a difference?

Hello All,

I have a new AC unit installed (Condenser: Airtemp VSA3BE4M1SN30K) and I discovered the air temperature coming out of the condensing unit varies at different position. I measured the coil temperature using an infrared digital thermometer and found out that there is a temperature difference across the condensing coil. The hottest part is where the refrigerant enters and exit the coil and the temperature gradually drops when it is away from the in and outlets.

Below is top to down look of the condensing unit and the coil temperature distribution. Apologize for the crude ms paint drawing.

https://preview.redd.it/xas15xxodizc1.png?width=812&format=png&auto=webp&s=1d81debdfa92a19889486c311920aefca32bc8f2

Is that normal for a condensing unit? Other than that the AC cools pretty well.

Appreciate your thought on this!

So I have neighbours harassing me with scented laundry bead/perfume products. They stopped when I asked them to because I’m allergic but then started again when we had a disagreement. It’s so intense it gets in my fresh air intake on the other side of my home and comes in 2nd floor windows. Can I have the fresh air intake pull from inside? I can’t see where I can move it to to get fresh air except above the roof which would look dumb.

I need a solution please. These products are so toxic my 4” filter doesn’t filter it out.

Hi!

I own a 105 yr old bungalow - technically 1.5 story house. The upstairs has pitched ceilings and consists of an enclosed staircase, small area at the top of the staircase used as a nursery (16 ft long x6 wide), and our master bedroom (16 ft long x 12 feet wide plus a walk in closet and small bathroom).

Wanted to add a mini split unit in addition to our central air because it gets hot up there for our new baby and we have basically no insulation since the house is so old. HVAC company recommended two units (one in nursery and one in bedroom). I thought it seemed like overkill for the size but they were treating it as two separate rooms even though the rooms are connected (think one long and skinny room that is separated by a pocket door). It’s really a renovated attic.

For budget reasons we wanted to add one unit. Signed contract for a 9,000 btu unit. HVAC company says it came in damaged and is back ordered until September but will install a 12,000 btu unit in its place. Is this overkill or reasonable? From my basic calculations/reading it seems like it will constantly be turning on and off but I’m sure there are many factors involved.

Thank you!