Light says the humidifier is on and I can hear the solenoid valve click when furnace comes on.

There is no water coming in through the feed line…supply line is open.

How should I remedy this? I was advised to paint over this. Should I remove the rust before painting? Any recommendation for paint (and rust removal)?

So the story is I got my G3 in 2022 in Toronto. And I been working HVAC residential and light commercial as a main tech installer/ service/ repair, basically one in all since then. And before 2022 worked as a helper installing water heater for year and a half for good old Enercare.

So I can basically any kind of HVAC and water purification system and repair it as well.

I have worked on dozens RTUs and exhaust/ make up air units as well.

All this to say that I have a good understanding and capacity to do what I’m doing.

Reason for not getting the complete G2 and just renewing the G3 was, I was broke, still am , and can’t afford to go back to school. Even after being the main person doing it everything for the company I am basically averaging 3,000$ cad being on all the whole week.

So I went to the school to ask the going prices for g2 admission and even the director there told me to challenge the G2 exam. Being that I have held the G3 for over 2 years so I’m eligible.

Now my QUESTION is, is it a good decision to challenge it, and would it help me get a better go or an apprenticeship to the refrigeration ticket easy. As I been told by my numerous G2 holder helpers that it’s been very difficult for them.

Thanks and sorry for the big ass essay.

Hello,

I have a Goodman furnace in a home built in 2018 in Canada. The furnace has been acting up the past month and half. When I set a certain temperature, it does not turn on fully to get to that temperature, it turns on and off. At night it doesn’t seem to work and this is not by design, the fan works properly. I thought it might be the thermostat but I replaced the thermostat and it does not seem to be the issue. Would this be a simple fix or something that I need to call in an expert to fix?

Anyone seen one of these in an older building? My building was built 1940-1950 and has this heater in the wall and the knob turns it on and off. Haven’t seen one of these ever and thought it was cool! But also wanted to know if it’s safe to use?

Unit is pretty old, but still running strong. Looking towards the future what kind of replacement would you recommend. Do I look for a similar style unit or maybe electric floorboard heating.

Side question what maintenance activity can I do to keep her roaring along as long as possible?

Started poking around to find some more affordable copper. There is a company in VA who claims to be a manufacturer of linesets that are made in America, AD Engineering. Their website is AD.engineering and seem to be the only manufacturer that sells direct.

Their prices are 10-20% than buying from a supply house. Are they worth trying? Has anyone used their stuff? I don’t want to risk saving $30-40 a lineset if it’s junk copper with pin holes. Everything seems legit other than a goofy domain name for their website

For the last six+ months or so, my husband insists that there is something coming out of our vents. He even has a hard time sleeping because of it. The thing is that my son and I don’t seem to be feel anything or be affected by it. Can there be something coming out of our vents that he’s sensitive to? We live in Florida and do have air ducts and insulation in the attic.

One of my zones isn’t heating up. I replaced the valve motor and still nothing. The signal is being sent but I don’t feel any hot water coming out from the valve to the pipe. Any thoughts?

Hi all, first time poster, long time HVAC lurker (I'm the guy who tries to not annoy his tech by asking a billion questions but wants to absorb).

Just had a new system put in (variable speed heat pump with 80% furnace cutover at 45f), and it is great! Had some ducting adjusted to lower output pressure as it was high (home builder pinched and undersized crawlspace ducts 20 years ago).

Come winter tune up, the tech advised me that my input pressure is high (guessing it didn't come up on install because the heat pump wasn't running full bore). It makes some sense - my input ducts are a lousy upstairs rafter duct and a standard duct downstairs that meet 6 ft from the furnace - not much.

Until I figure out how to add an input duct, can I close the damper (full or partial) to alleviate the input pressure a bit? My upstairs is sweltering at night because I've been afraid to close the damper after reading one too many static pressure stories, so this would solve two problems at once.

Pictures are in the comments* sorry

Hey everyone! I’m trying to install a Honeywell T9 thermostat in my apartment, but I’m a bit confused about the wiring. My current thermostat is quite outdated, so I decided to upgrade to the T9.

I’ve noticed that there are 2 brown wires, 1 black wire, 1 red wire, and 1 white wire coming from my central air unit. The instructions I’ve found usually mention green or yellow wires, but mine don’t have those, so I’m not sure where to connect each one.

Has anyone installed this thermostat before and can guide me on how to handle this setup? I don’t want to risk messing anything up and being without AC or heat tonight. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much!

The HVAC (Lennox) in my house was not new when I bought it 16 years ago; so I don’t know its age. Nevertheless it’s been functioning fine with periodic servicing, new thermostat. House is 70 yo, pier-and-beam, 1300 sf. I live in central Texas so AC is running 24/7 nine months of the year. The last time I had it serviced 2 years ago, the guy said I should consider replacing the capacitor on the AC compressor and added: “Or you can just wait until the whole unit dies.” I got busy and forgot about it. Thoughts?

Looks like the inner layer is torn and I see the insulation. Can I put some duct tape on the inside to close this torn flex duct?

We are looking to buy a home and noticed on the disclosures the furnace is from the 80s. Don’t know yet when the last time it was serviced. On the seller disclosures is says that the “FAC piping in penatrating the appliance case” and that this “violates safety standards and increases the risk of gas leaks and other hazardous situations.” As someone with zero knowledge regarding furnaces, is it safe to operate/move into? Does this need to be replaced asap even prior to moving in?

Trying to get some help after having a 4-month long exchange with our maintenance team (renting an apartment) which have failed to resolve an issue.

We rent a third-floor apartment unit in a cold/windy area of the country. There are two Mitsubishi ductless mini splits in our unit.

As soon as we moved in, we noticed that one of the units emits a strong sewer smell (think strong rotten eggs) at all times, even when turned off. It varies in intensity but is always detectable, and gives me serious migraines.

Our maintenance team tried to BS us for the first two months (saying it's just musty because it hadn't been used, it'll burn off, it's just condensation, etc.) before we called the city for a violation of environmental hazard codes. Then maintenance "magically" identified that the shit smell was coming from the HVAC drain line (they have these to move condensation away from the unit, but no ducts).

Things we have already tried:

1. Taking the whole unit apart and cleaning it. No effect.
2. Pouring two gallons of water down every drain in the apartment (including the HVAC unit drain lines). No effect.
3. Blowing out the drain line from the bottom up (every floor below and above us as well), then again priming the p-traps with water.

That last attempt alleviated the smell for like one day, and then it was back. When it rains, the smell disappears, but as soon as we have a clear day it comes back.

I'm almost certain there is an issue with the p-trap connected to the HVAC drain line (perhaps angled incorrectly, or maybe something is blocked causing a pressure change that sucks water out of them). We do not run our units due to the harmful smell, and it's getting really cold here.

Is there anyone with some HVAC experience out there who has some ideas?

Installing a bathroom exhaust fan in Southern California. None of my entire house is insulated. Everything I read says insulate due to condensation. Help me understand. I feel like if there is insulation it will hold moisture and create mold. Is it necessary? Is it advised? Thanks!

My furnance won’t turn on.

R and W terminals show 26V at the thermostat.

I go to the furnanxe control board and if I connect my R W and I’m able to start it.

I can’t start using my thermostat so I thought it’s defected. However, even with direct connection. It won’t start my furnace. It has 26V so I’m confused.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ecobee premium reboot (heat 73 degree or above)

Searched a lot, sounds like a number of items could be a culprit, but wanted to post nonetheless and see if my situation is anymore unique.

Noticed that ecobee premium reboots while heat is on, set at 73 (holding). Screen goes blank, then “hi,” then “ecobee,” then back to where it was before. Takes just a few min. Happens while heat is on. Outdoor temp has been 30-55.

Ecobee was just installed, brand new device. Have ecobee premiums on each of 3 floors. 1st floor is the one that reboots (other floors set at 70 and 68). New return filters, merv 8 (hdx brand, less than a week old). Moved into this home 3 months ago. Home about 7 years old. Prior homeowner used merv 5 filters. First floor heat source is gas. Second and third floors use a heat pump. All equipment is carrier.

I do notice that the heat shuts off briefly around the same time as the ecobee reboot, then back on after a minute or so.

All vents are open and the system was just serviced by an hvac professional (normal winter tune up stuff) this last Wednesday… didn’t cite any issues with the system.

Could a merv 8 filter really restrict air flow (compared to the prior merv 5) that it trips a sensor that shuts off the furnace? I had always set the temp at 72 with the prior thermostat (“dumb” Honeywell)… but didn’t pay enough attention to the thermostat since it doesn’t have the screen like the ecobee to know if it was rebooting or not.

Thanks for reading.

Wiring pic:

https://imgur.com/gallery/w6Tgb11

Hi, my apartment doesn’t have a fan to ventilate steam in the bathroom. This resulted in my fire alarm going off after I took a hot shower once I opened the door. (My smoke detector is placed right outside bathroom and apparently steam can cause this to happen). Will plugging my fan in the bathroom with the bathroom door open ventilate steam to prevent the alarm from going off? I only had a 6 min shower and I really don’t want the alarm to go off again, thanks.

Hi all,

My mom has a 2 story log home with an open ceiling living room that’s vaulted up to the second story.

She built this house in 1990 and basically has had trouble keeping the downstairs warm since.

She has a heat pump + electric “emergency heat”. System is all forced air. The entire system except duct work was replaced in 2019 with the promise it would fix the heating issues she experiences in the winter.

The first floor is all slab vents. The second floor is ceiling vents.

There is a manual diverter that has been adjusted multiple times since 2019.

When I say it gets hot upstairs I mean like roasting. The air temp has to be in the high 80s when the thermostat downstairs is set to 65.

So my question is. Can I fully close the diverter to the upstairs in the winter time and effectively push all the air downstairs? No one is upstairs except me once a month and I think the residual heat rising from below would keep it a more reasonable temperature.

The feedback she got from her HVAC company was if they closed the diverter fully it could cause the system to get unbalanced or possibly blow out the ductwork that carries the air downstairs.

TLDR. 2 story home with single zone forced air heating can you close a diverter to make all air go downstairs in winter time?