Don’t know much about components, looking to replace this leaky cap

In the bottom part of the picture, the red, black and green wires go to an air pressure sensor I need to connect to some equipment to monitor the psi of a pressurized line. The red cable is Voltage, black is ground and the green wire is the sensor output. The cable that I am using to extend the sensor has a red, black and a drain wire. Originally I was going to connect the red and black wires together and then the sensor output to the drain wire. But then I stated to worry about signal lose. And now I am wondering if it would be better to connect the sensor ground to the bare drain wire of the other cable and then connect the sensor output to the black wire of the other cable.

Or does it even matter at all as long as I document which on is which?

I'm building a 7 x 15 LED matrix using a HT16K33. I will be connecting this to one of the 5V GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi, and I'm trying to a) understand the resistors that I will need and b) check I will not be pulling too much current.

Question one: Do I need a current limiting resistor between the 5V pin and VDD?

My original understanding (which I now believe to be wrong) was that ICs have very little resistance, so I would need to have a resistor between the 5V pin and the VDD pin on the chip.

Having looked at this closer, I'm actually thinking it might be safe to connect it directly. The datasheet says it has an operating current of 1-2mA at 5V, which I think means it crudely speaking has a resistance of 2500-5000 Ohms.

Question two: How are the row / column outputs connected to VDD?

From what I've read online, I've come to the conclusion that (ignoring the internal circuits) the outputs are effectively wired in parallel to VDD, so they will receive 5V with very little resistance. Is this correct? And if so, I imagine the correct conclusion is that I need a resistor for each line in the matrix?

Is it always the case that outputs are in parallel to VDD? Or is there something on the datasheet for this chip I should be using to confirm that?

Hi everyone, I have this LED https://www.amazon.com/CHANZON-Power-Natural-White-4000K/dp/B01DBZI64C?th=1, which I want to pulse at different frequencies. Very new to electronics so I appreciate any input. Thank you in advance.

This isn't for a Pc build but hopefully you lot can help. This is not my area whatsoever so apologies if this is obvious. I'm doing a sort of DIY project which involves separating a digital piano keybed and it's motherboard, and essentially what I need is a 5pin/wire extension or adapter. The components are Molex kk 2.54mm

Done lots of research and searching but I'm coming up lost with what type of connector I need or how to go about this.

As it stands, out of the keyboard is coming the wire with the 5 position housing/female enclosure (molex kk), and on the motherboard is the 5 pins. They connect together as you would expect. What I need is an extension cable between those two points. I understand how I can attach the female enclosure to wires with crimps, but cannot for the life of me figure out how I can get the pins to attach to the wire, or if there is some sort of adapter to use to this effect.

For some reason I can't post a photo which would help matters but hopefully I have explained well enough.

Thanks all in advance for the help.

This is on a board for a car tuner panel. It has a readout of things and has a touchscreen. It has come in for the touchscreen not working. My theory so far is the touchscreen controller IC is bad. The touchscreen digitizer traces have continuity all the way through the screen ribbon cable. There are no shorted caps or resistors around the IC, which makes me think the IC is bad somehow. Not sure if the digitizer could be bad.

Hello everyone,

I’m working on an electronics project and need some help with the power supply. I’m using used PC power supplies, and my goal is to efficiently use the available power to feed my circuits. The specifications of the supplies are as follows:

Power Supply 1:

12V at 17A → 204W

12V at 9A → 108W

5V at 13A → 65W

3.3V at 10A → 33W

Power Supply 2:

12V at 27A → 324W

5V at 26A → 130W

3.3V at 18A → 59.4W

I want to use the 12V output to power my circuits, but I also need to step down or step up the voltage efficiently (e.g., from 12V to 5V). I plan to use a DPS5015 to adjust the voltage, but I’m not sure if I’m selecting the right DC-DC modules. I have considered boost converters like the MT3608 and XL6009, but I’m not sure if these can handle the current my supplies provide.

My questions are:

1. Can I use a buck converter to step down from 12V to 5V without losing much power?

I’m looking for a module that can handle at least 3A or more without overheating. I’ve seen modules like LM2596 and MP1584, but I’m wondering if there are more powerful options.

2. How can I divide the load between different modules to avoid overloading them?

Since my 12V outputs can provide up to 17A and 27A, I want to make sure I don’t overwork the conversion modules. Is it possible to use these modules in parallel to take advantage of all the power without risks?

3. What modules would be ideal for using the full current from 12V for both small and large projects?

I would really appreciate any guidance on which modules would be best, how to wire everything correctly, and any tips to avoid overloading the components.

Thanks in advance for your help

I am new to electronics I started experimenting this week, the only thing I’ve completed so far is a little robot bug that buzzes around. I ordered 3 mushroom LED lamps to light my room at night each has a separate remote. I would like to take them apart and connect each to one remote but I don’t have the knowledge. I tried reading online but obviously having not yet learned much more than soldering basic circuits and batteries I couldn’t understand some of the more advanced explanations, I need it stated for dummies. I will be doing more research before I start and I am ok breaking one or two in the process, I know I should start slower but I really want to solve an actual problem with soldering.

EDIT: after 10 minutes of googling (so much research I know) receiver last night and “receiver parts” and ONLY getting results for radios I thought I was wrong but I just found “transmitter and receivers” little parts online I’m gonna now google about those for more than 20 minutes I’m ASSUMING that’s what the remotes use to talk through space (wow I’m realizing how slow my brain works) I’m gonna look through the parts when they get here and try to figure out which part is which. Hopefully I can find a good diagram online.

Hi, I want to make custom board with XL4016E1, possibly implementing this schematic: https://xtronic.org/circuit/xl4016-step-down-dc-dc-converter-8a/

Why are XL4016E1 assembled modules available, but I don't seem to be able to find the IC only, on platforms like Digikey, Mouser, ecc?

I'd like to buy it from trusted sources, so no Aliexpress, ecc, as it is an important project. Thanks!

I was trying to clean out my laptop when this tiny 4 pin connector broke. I don’t have a soldering iron and even then the connector has glue all over the opening so it’s hard to reattach. Any suggestions? I need it fixed ASAP so if you know anywhere I can buy a replacement connector let me know.

I'm interested in the relationship between jitter and the bandwidth of an electric component. Just to make sure we're all on the same page, I'm going to give a couple definitions. I define jitter (more accurately the added device jitter) to be the uncertainty in time of when a perfectly clocked/periodic signal passes a voltage threshold. By bandwidth, I mean the point where the frequency response has decreased to 3dB.

My specific problem is the following. I'm producing a nearly perfectly clocked 20ps wide pulse that will drive a piece of electronics with a DC-40GHz bandwidth. Assuming the device is perfect besides having the bandwidth given above, will there be jitter roughly equal to 1/40GHz on the rise time of the pulse? My assumption is that this does not cause jitter, but only causes an effective low-pass filter to the pulse; this is contrary to my PI who claims that the bandwidth does cause jitter. It would be great if people may have a reading recommendation or a location that might talk about jitter more rigorously or might even say something about bandwidth limitations on jitter. Thanks a ton for any insight you might have!

I'm designing a hobby PCB to take a DC-DC converter module:

https://www.murata.com/products/productdata/8807036256286/mysgk02506brsr.pdf

It has the expected via pattern to aid in thermal transfer and electrical bonding for the ground areas to the bottom ground layer. I've read that 0.3mm vias at a 0.8mm spacing are pretty optimal so going with that.

My question is: tented - or untented and fill with solder paste as part of my reflow process?

The untented vias would be well clear of component pads so stealing solder by wicking is not a problem.

In other words: Will solder help enough with electrical and thermal coupling to be worth the bother?

And: Is a 0.3mm/11mil through plated hole likely to accept stencil applied paste in a useful way on a standard 1.6mm thickness board?

Be interested in any thoughts :) Thank you all.

Ignition coil is not AC output. Therefore a voltage doubler can't be used. Pulsing DC output high voltage, was reported in 2008 to have been increased using diode + Millihenry inductor wire coil, and capacitor. Does this have anything to do with resonant charging choke or as pulse forming network? How to do test on work bench with Magnet magneto type Ignition AUTOTRANSFOMER that uses 3 connections. I have parts. Comments requested.

Hi, Out of curiosity, I'm looking to identify this component soldered on a unidentified Sony PCB (seem to be video related) The case and size look like a fuse and the inside is like a mercury thermometer. Maybe to count hours of working ? Labeled as TM1 on the silkscreen

Capacitor was bulging so I removed and can’t figure out the rating

Can a large amperage stud diode as standard type low frequency, on series MILLIAMPS current, pass properly a much way higher over voltage in reverse direction , reverse bias, repeatedly as high frequency source, and not fail over time? I thought only overheating by large current failed diodes. The ZENER diodes pass current in reverse. A new energy system described power supply uses 70HF160 diode, 1600v 70A, that removes electrons during over voltage pulses.
The final degenerated , more unstable Hydrogen + positive Oxygen fuel ions , from Voltrolysis, and laser excitation, then fire with spark, forming huge energy release, with Patented name - Thermo Explosive Energy. The new Meyer cell circuitry. Excerpts on You tube, and company Manuals, Patents, etc. , from The earlier Water Fuel Cell in Ohio. This technology may replace the oil to fuel. 

Nikon dslr camera get damaged caused buy camera being exposed to excessive humidity The camera still working pretty good though the viewfinder lens is foggy

Hi! I made a boost converter to convert 12 V (in fact 11 V to 14 V from a battery) to 24 V - 3 A I followed the datasheet, but i'm not sure about my design, and in particular the voltage mode circuit (the modification page 23 of the datasheet), even if I really followed what was written on the datasheet. I can share all the calculus for the components (feedback circuit, inductor) except for the input and output cap, as i just put a lot of capacitors to make sure that i'll have enough decoupling for the load i'm working with (an amplifier). Thank you for your help!

Maybe someone help to find this part? Written ETJ 40 or something like that. At web i didn't find something, probably someone had experience with that? Seems like diode but dont know any specifications

I know joule thiefs are great but can this simple circuit output this amount of power? If it is real I will build one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1mfL7Qsem4

Hi all

I have a moded LED headlight. It was powered with 3xAAA battery and I mod it do get power from 5V adapter because I am tired of replacing batteries. The LED uses ultra bright white color mushroom LED light.

I forgot since when, but it has been my third attempt to replace the LED because one of it had failed.

Here are the pictures:

This is the led with modded on off switch

If I turn it on one of the led is dimmed. It started to blink and now goes dimm.

This is the top side of the PCB:

https://preview.redd.it/o1zm6fnaw4he1.jpg?width=1604&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cc2de1bd65d835c81b2d6bd67c15ca8b82b7d674

And this is the bottom side

https://preview.redd.it/b9wtd79cw4he1.jpg?width=956&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c68544e223590719b4846af28e547682940ddd8

Is there a way for me to add into the PCB something, resistor or anything, that can maybe help to preserve the LED light to last longer?

This is the LED I purchased:

https://preview.redd.it/bghth83tw4he1.png?width=960&format=png&auto=webp&s=047655005a7648299ed811dc7b6fcbc48eb5884c

Based on the store description where I purchased it, it said: Vcc :3.0-3.2V. I measured the voltage at the LED as 3.42V. So, it should be ok, right?
Is there anything I should to do check or put something on, like different or additional resistor? and where on the pcb?

Thank you

I want to learn design basic power circuits. Mostly AC-DC circuits and vice versa.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!