My microwave is giving me a hard time. Pressing the cook buttons & start will start the timer, but no fan/cook function happens.... till i gently pull on the door, and then the fan/magnetron kick in.

I replaced the door switches, but same result. I feel like this might be some kind of alignment issue, but not sure what to align. Any ideas?

So my microwave was tripping the breaker every time I hit start. I did some research and found that I had a bad door switch. I purchased and installed new one and now it works. However during this process something has happened to the door and now it isn’t aligned anymore. Iv checked everything I took apart and it all seems normal. Any ideas?

I have a Thermador over-the-range microwave installed over a Thermador gas range

The front right burner is rated at 15,000 BTU. I use this burner the most. When the burner is in use and for a few minutes after, the microwave handle gets extremely hot to the touch, almost unusable. The installers followed all the recommended guidelines and the earlier appliances in the same space did not have this issue.

After 2-3 weeks of use, I noticed that the microwave door handle had developed air bubbles in the chrome (stainless steel) coating which looks bad. I contacted Thermador and they offered to replace the door handle since the appliance is under warranty.

The installation manual does not mention the height above the gas range.

Does anyone have experience with this? What's the root cause here? I would have thought an over-the-range microwave from a reputed brand would be able to handle common use.

Thanks

Hello, I have a Samsung Over The Range Microwave that won’t heat my food anymore. My background is in Electronics Engineering so I decided to open the unit to troubleshoot the issue while taking proper safety measures. I feel like I have checked everything that would be the cause of a no heat issue but I am not finding any bad component. I have done the following:

• Tested all 3 door switches (All appear to be functional)
• Checked door latch for spring tension. No issues apparent
• checked all 4 thermal fuses for continuity. 3 out of 4 have continuity, the 4th appears to be a normally open fuse that controls the exhaust fan when the bottom of the unit gets too hot.
• Discharged capacitor and tested for a short, and none is apparent. Capacitor is reading about 10.5 M Ohms for resistance and appears to be good.
• Tested diode with a 9V battery and I am seeing roughly a voltage drop of 3V across the diode and none when reversed. ( Really thought this was going to be the issue.)
• Tested magnetron for Continuity between terminals, and that test passed. No continuity between terminals and body of the magnetron.
• Removed magnetron to inspect for any visible burns or scorch marks and none are apparent at all.
• Checked control board for any obvious sub component failures and nothing appears to be shorted.
• No obvious scorch marks on any of the cabinet wiring.

The only thing I noticed was was that there was some grease build up on the pcb board that holds the 2 20A ceramic fuses. I took the fuses out and cleaned the fuses and the terminals. I am wondering if the if this cooking grease build up is causing this small PCB board to have issues with my microwave not heating up my food. I can’t find any service manual that i can use to troubleshoot this issue (surprise surprise).

If there are any appliance experts on here that can help provide a service manual or any other troubleshooting advice, I’d really appreciate it. I really don’t want to spend another $400 for another unit for something that I may be able to repair for far less. Model number listed in title.

So my microwave recently started arching when operated regardless of what was inside of it. Bit of poking around later and it seems that if some flip the waveguide cover around the arching stops and it seems to run normally.

Can someone with a better understanding of microwaves explain to me why this (seems) to fix the problem? I figure should probably just replace the waveguide cover anyway but now I'm curious.

Any experience with these guys? Everything works but as soon as you try to COOK something it blows the breaker downstairs.

I get the E-11 error code when it powers back up.

Have found one post on the web saying possible gas sensor. And another saying she’s toast.

Would rather swap a $40 part than replace the whole thing if I can help it.

5 years old.

Family ran the microwave for about 20 minutes straight (multiple loads of sweet potatoes) and it stopped working. 250V 15A fuse was dead, so I replaced it with a new one which lasted all of about 2-3 seconds when trying it out. I believe there are two thermal fuses in the unit, both of which do show resistance on the voltmeter. Any suggestions? Model is JEM31SF001. Thanks for your insight.

I have a Samsung OTR Microwave (ME16H702SES) that isn't heating up food. We came home after a blackout in the neighborhood and it stopped working.

The lights work, we can enter in the cooktime and start the microwave, but after the timer is up the food is still cold (other than the heat it still looks like a functional microwave -- the plate turns and the microwave light turns on). I've heard that it might be on demo mode, but as far as I can tell there's no demo mode for the microwave.

Any thoughts on what might be wrong and how we could fix it?

Hi, I have a 7 year old Frigidaire FFMV164LSA microwave. Today it was doing this weird thing where it would run but not count the time down, and pressing Stop did nothing. Opening the door would stop it, but the problem would resume when we tried again. I finally unplugged it and it seemed to work normally after that.

Does this sound like a fluke, or is it time to start shopping?

I have a GE Profile Spacemaker microwave/convection oven from 2004 (so, parts are very hard to get).

JVM1490 WD003

The controls are a combination of electronic and mechanical. There are electronic "buttons," but there is a knob that you spin (to dial in a number on an electronic display) and then push in (to activate the unit).

Several years ago, the button stopped registering when you push it in. And it won't move very far anymore; when you push it, it doesn't move in toward the control panel the way it did at the beginning. We just lived with it; a repair seemed expensive, and...

I'm on a kick fixing things and it occurred to me that maybe something had slipped backward so that the knob wouldn't reach, or something. And maybe I could just tighten something up.

I unplugged things and opened up the control section. And everything seems well seated. So now I don't know... Is there any sense in unplugging all the little cord units and opening it up further? I have repaired electronic things following a video or a diagram; I'm careful and moderately mechanically inclined, but I really don't know anything about electronics.

Here is a diagram of the parts in question (which are no longer available), the microwave, and what I saw when I opened it up. https://imgur.com/a/0tpfAlt

My microwave appeared to be dead for no reason. We went to use it a few days ago and there was no indication of power (clock and all lights off and would not turn on). No tripped breakers on the panel. All other appliances worked normally. I slammed the door and it came back on and operated normally. However, the issue is recurring. Slamming the door will get it to come back on for a period of time.

I don’t see any loose connections but I’m not inclined to to take it apart to check all connections either. Provided its age, should I just buy a new one or is it worth calling a technician? Any thoughts what the issue could be? Thanks all.

LG microwave, model LMC2075BD.BBDEBBY. Just 14 months old.

Stopped heating. When it stopped heating, the top-right side of the unit (magnetron area) was really hot.

I've tested it with an ohm meter and it tests out okay. The magnetron antenna looks fine, no burns or discoloration.

I used a kill-a-watt to get the amperage pull: It fluctuates, anywhere from 1 up to 16.2.

Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UAKkaEzdEcw-LTJKCTiF688Rwly10A3h/view

It's no louder than normal, and I can just barely tell a sound difference when it shows a higher pull on the kill-a-watt.

What else can I do to figure out what to replace?

I have a Magic Chef HMM1611ST microwave which all of a sudden has an issue with the speaker. You can barely hear the speaker if you are very very quiet. Is that something that can be repaired?

Does anyone have any instructions on how to change the bulb for the microwave? The model is pt7800shss. Do I really need to remove the whole unit from the cabinets?

Looking for help on repairs. I have a microwave that has now blown 2 separate thermal fuses and is now no longer turning on

The first blew while cooking something in the microwave. I replaced it and the microwave turned back on but when I shut the door, it blew the thermal fuse and now no longer turns on again.

Any idea what could be causing these to blow? One blew while heating something up, one blew while shutting the door.

I have a GE microwave that’s less than two years old. Recently the tray table only spins some of the time. Usually after a minute of the microwave running is when the tray table starts spinning. Any ideas?

I have an LG microwave, model LMC2075BD.BBDEBBY. Just 14 months old.

A couple of nights ago it stopped heating. At the time, the top-right side of the unit (magnetron area) was really hot.

I've tested it with an ohm meter and it tests out okay. The magnetron antenna looks fine, no burns or discoloration.

LG already refused to cover it since it's 2 months out of warranty. They'll cover the magnetron, but not the labor...there's no LG auth service center nearby so I'd have to ship it...by the time I pay shipping and labor, it wouldn't be worth paying to have it fixed.

BUT, I'd rather fix it myself if I can properly diagnose it so I don't waste money on parts that aren't broken. Is it possible for a bad magnetron to test good?

Thanks!

Hi, I'll get straight to the point . I have a 11 year old 24L convection heating microwave which had a damaged magnetron , so I replaced it with a new one yet its not working ? I can't seem to understand what's wrong ??!

Brand: Kitchenaid

Model: KMCS1016GSS0

Issue:

The buttons on the microwave intermittently stop working. Some of the buttons work/others do not. Which buttons work changes over time. The display is also not functioning properly. I've tried cutting off power to reset it, but nothing works.

I think I need to replace the control panel. I can't find the part number. It's not in the manual. Does anyone have that information and/or suggestions about other things to try?

Turntable won't spin anymore guessing cuz my roommate put in a dish too big and was hitting walls so wouldn't spin. Anyway I know how to replace but have hard time finding cheap 120v 6rpm motor for it. Most seem to be 240v. Is there a way to repair it? Makes a grinding noise when it's microwave is on. Also when i try to hand spin it there's alot of friction

So I have a pretty nice above the range LG microwave that's just under warranty at 11 months. Problem is the issue it has is intermittent. There are no error codes. It's just that sometimes you turn it on and it doesn't heat anything. Other times it works fine. It always appears to work - just no heat sometimes.

It's on a circuit with nothing other than kitchen lights so it's not competing with some other appliance.

We live in a rural area and getting a technician out here means taking a day off work for the sometime between 9am and 5pm appointment. And last time, it worked fine when they got here - they said they couldn't do anything if it wasn't exhibiting the problem when they arrived.

So I've been hoping for it to fail for good, but it's still intermittent. Seems to work more reliably first thing in the morning and then fail after a few rounds, but again sometimes it works fine all day long.

Does anyone have a suggestion for what I can test when it's not working myself? OR perhaps a way to make it not work for good so I can get it fixed?

Help please!

A couple months ago I replaced an interlock switch and a burned out wire in my Panasonic NN-SD987S microwave. Problem is the plate that the switch assembly is attached to now flexes when the door is closing, causing the occasional issue where either one switch is not depressed or the hooks do not fall into place. The remedy is to basically slam the door closed, but yeah...

Anyone familiar with this microwave? I reinstalled the assembly the same way I removed it, so I'm not quite sure what the issue is.

Thanks!

So we have one of those microwaves that re installed over the counters. We keep some mixing bowls and a toaster oven underneath it on the counter. Yesterday I went to grab a mixing bowl while the microwave was running, and I could feel a bunch of static electricity messing with my arm hair. My arm was approximately a foot under the unit.

It's possible it's always been like that, and I just haven't reached under there while it was running, but I don't remember it ever happening before.

Is it normal for this to be the case or should I call for a repair?

Thanks!

The power appears fine as the display is always on. Hit the sequence for cook, and the timer will count down with no other noise. My kid figured out that if you whack it right on the door, it will start cooking (fan, turntable, etc all then kicks in, and heats).

Any ideas what it might be? Would a door switch being faulty still allow the timer to run? But hitting the door seems to consistently make it work.